Solar powered 12v, USB, 110vac and a VHF/UHF radio

[WSS]

This is a family project for the summer. Our goal is to have a compact, self-contained power system that can be carried.

We have a bunch of gray 1550 pelican boxes we use for various things, picnic box, gun range box, vehicle tools box, etc.. This box wil serve as a platform for a quick summer project to teach my son (and me!!) how to make solar work.

The details are changing as we go but the main featurs are a Icom dual band radio (that is dear to me), USB charging capabilities, a 12v lighter port, 400w of 110vac and a led light to illuminate the panel.

The Icom radio was recently given to me by my dad, who has had it since 1999, when my grandfather passed away. My last communication with my Grandfather was on this radio (in his shack) 2hrs before he passed. So, this radio has some significant value to me. A great radio to teach my son "how-to".

Some starter pics:

The basic top panel parts:

Bottom panel components:

Two of these for power:

dxf drawing being converted to g code for my cutter:

panel after cut:

 

[WSS]

I have two 20w panels that fit in the lid. Still need to mock up a way to hold them in, I may usr bungee cord in a X as seen around the forum. I put in three plugs for the panels just in case I add another or borrow one, etc. The plugs a deutsch connecters. I have a full kit for these, so I will make MC4 adaptors for them too to cover all bases.

The antenna and mic cord will be mounted via flange mount adaptors too. The antenna can be mounted straight on or with a 12' mag mount kit.

My first attempt, let me know what you think, any critical mistakes?? any ideas are welcome.

WSS

 

[trecash6850]

How are you attaching the aluminum panels and bottom components to the pelican case? Using the Deutsch connectors for solar inputs? Looks like a fun project.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

 

[WSS]

The panels are (at this stage) going to be mounted through the bottomm using 1/4" SS machine screws. The distance between top and bottom panel will be determined by the length of the DOM tube I cut. My plan is to weld coupler nuts on both sides of the DOM tube and attach through the bottom using five anchor points. The panel is 16ga aluminum but feels rigid enough without support, so my hope is the DOM standoffs will be plenty.

Yes, Deutsch connectors for the inputs. Also for the lower/upper wiring connection, this way the top panel can be "un-plugged" for service, etc.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

I wouldn't destroy the integrity of the case by drilling holes in it. I would use spacers between the top and bottom panels and rubber bumpers on the top panel that rest against the inside of the lid when closed. The entire assembly is then floating and can be lifted out when needed. I would have used circuit breakers instead of fuses. No need to worry about spare fuses. Also those fuse holders are easily broken. Guarded rocker breakers would work perfect and work also as a switch. The flush pop out style breakers are ok but they break easily too.

They Deutsch connectors are super nice but look how high they sit above the panel waiting on something to break them. A couple of these would be great. They sit flush and handle 45 amps.
https://powerwerx.com/panelpole-panel-mount-powerpole-housing

Swap out the USB charger port with this one. There is a big difference between 2.1 Amps per port and 2.4 Amps when it comes to the latest devices. Some will not charge.
https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-1045-fast-charge-dual-usb-charger-socket-mount

Use these to replace the fuses and switches.
https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1366/Circuit-Breakers/&mfg=119&pageSize=36&Series=Series-24

 

[WSS]

The panel sits lower than shown in pic by about another inch. There are some dimples that stick out along the perimeter of case that it sets perfectly on. Drilling holes in a Pelican is not what I want to do. I here what you are saying but cannot get my head around it. The bottom panel does need to be "fastened" somehow. The batteries weigh more than I hoped and need to be strapped or clamped rigid. So, a floating mount probably will not work, but there must be a way to secure it without making holes.

The Deutsch connectors don't break readily. These are not the cheapies. I am really confident in these. I had a 2 wire pair on some LEDS crash head on into a concrete wall between a RZR at about 20mph and the connectors did not break (nor did the LEDS, which were Caterpillar) The tube bumper folded up into the plastic hood.

Thanks for the link to the higher output USB!! I have noticed some ipads will not charge with the lower outputs, so thanks again!!

 

[WSS]

Just bought 2 of the USB sockets, one for my Jeep too

 

[WSS]

HillBilly Heaven, what about velcro along the sides? You got me thinking now. I have some indutrial Velcro that may work if I bent two sides on the break.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

I can't picture the velcro idea.

The bottom panel can sit on the corner ledges in the bottom of the case. Then using standoffs between the top and bottom panels that are just long enough to allow the top panel to sit on the dimples along the sides. Now the panel is free setting inside the box. What you need now is to keep it from moving when the lid is closed and it is being carried. This is why I mentioned rubber bumpers mounted on the top panel that will touch the inside of the lif when closed.

A floating type a panel assembly is no problem when the case is open as it makes for easy access to the lower panel. The floating panel assembly just needs to be secured when the lid is closed. Thus the reason I mentioned the rub bumpers to hold the panel assembly in place with the lid closed.

 

[WSS]

I can't picture the Velcro idea.

The bottom panel can sit on the corner ledges in the bottom of the case. Then using standoffs between the top and bottom panels that are just long enough to allow the top panel to sit on the dimples along the sides. Now the panel is free setting inside the box. What you need now is to keep it from moving when the lid is closed and it is being carried. This is why I mentioned rubber bumpers mounted on the top panel that will touch the inside of the lif when closed.

A floating type a panel assembly is no problem when the case is open as it makes for easy access to the lower panel. The floating panel assembly just needs to be secured when the lid is closed. Thus the reason I mentioned the rub bumpers to hold the panel assembly in place with the lid closed.

AHH!! The top would be held in when CLOSED by rubber bumpers applying pressure when lid is down. It would be relatively easy as the lid has integrated mount points for a lid organizer. The set up would be more modular in a sense. I like it.

Thanks for the re-cap! I see it know.

I should be able to work a little on the project tomorrow, I will see what I can come up with.

 

[rayra]

I'd re-arrange the ergonomics a bit. Put the radio faceplate front and centered. Everything with a cord should connect or spawn closer to the outer edges so the cordage isn't cluttering up the arrangement and getting in the way. Put the fan back towards the hinge side, as far out of the way as possible. Or maybe even delete it and only encase the battery and all the accessories and put the radio body in the open inside the case, instead of trapping it inside. Maybe a couple vent slots in the sheet metal surface, for some passive cooling or even as breathers to work in conjunction with the fan (fan pushing air in or sucking air out?)
Maybe turn the inside of the lid into a cordage stowage design, with some elactic or velcro loops to strap stuff in.

 

[Wildcat]

subscribed for updates.

 

[WSS]

I'd re-arrange the ergonomics a bit. Put the radio faceplate front and centered. Everything with a cord should connect or spawn closer to the outer edges so the cordage isn't cluttering up the arrangement and getting in the way. Put the fan back towards the hinge side, as far out of the way as possible. Or maybe even delete it and only encase the battery and all the accessories and put the radio body in the open inside the case, instead of trapping it inside. Maybe a couple vent slots in the sheet metal surface, for some passive cooling or even as breathers to work in conjunction with the fan (fan pushing air in or sucking air out?)
Maybe turn the inside of the lid into a cordage stowage design, with some elactic or velcro loops to strap stuff in.

When I started the layout, I put priority on the batteries and the weight distribution of them so carrying the box would not be awkward. The batts are centered perfectly. Due to the size (height actually), I was not able to use a 4" strip right down the center (front to back). The radio faceplate is/will be mounted on two arms that will be set at the best angle once I have it operational (I'll post some detail pics of that today). For travel or transport, no cords will be connected to top panel, bottom panel will wired using zip ties and adhesive zip tie hold downs, should be fairly organized and hidden. The antenna will tuck into the lid along with the two solar panels and be held in by nylon straps using fastex buckles (at this point). The fan is not an option, The radio body and inverter generate heat during prolonged use. The fan will be controlled by a 110ºf thermal switch, so it will only run when either radio or inverter reach 110ºf . It will pull air from top and passively exhaust. So fan should not be running at all under casual or limited use, but will be there if heat becomes a problem. S you mentioned, the heat generating items are trapped under the panel, somewhat sealed. My goal was to have just the essentials on the top panel and the hardware below deck for a clean appearance. The antenna and mic will be connected via a bulkhead flange mount on top panel.


I hope to spend time on it today, yesterday was part gathering, I did get some very awesome rubber mounts in the exact size needed to hold down panel insert yesterday!!

WSS

 

[rayra]

Once upon a time the HAM subforum at ar15.com had an extensive topic of 'show us your field box', chock full of various home-built arrangements of various radios in things like pelican cases. But I can't seem to find it now. And the HAM forum seems to have been severely pruned. I know it took a big hit when Photobucket decided to take everyone's images hostage. There were a lot of very interesting concepts and specialty hardware descriptions and sourcing. It was a tremendous resource.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/Outdoors/Ham-Radios/22/

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

EBR Disease is worse than this place.