DVD
Adventurer
[Edits note: This is my first listing for the vehicle, and I'm updating the listing based on questions I receive and things thought about after the initial posting. Most of the edits are in the "It's a Land Rover thing" (known problems) section.]
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
The vehicle: 2005 Land Rover LR3 HSE w/ HD Package (locking rear differential). 214K miles. Overland enthusiast owned (since 94K miles). HD package, Cold Weather Package, Towing Package, 7 Seat Package. Owners manuals, 2 keys, thick folder with maintenance records. NO LEAKS. Engine strong, transmission solid and smooth.
Lots of overland/offroad extras. I would like to sell as "turnkey" overland vehicle with all the build items.
Many new mechanical bits:
Water pump, front prop shaft, rear prop shaft, front tie rods, front upper control arms, drop links, arb bushings, front windshield, panoramic roof glass, oil change all in the last 1K miles (getting ready to sell). Front lower control arms, AMD compressor, and all diff and transfer, and transmission fluids changed in the last 5K miles.
Price: $7,500
It's a Land Rover thing - known problems. Disclaimer, this is a 19-year-old vehicle that has been used in the field - what it is built for. It can be better to buy a vehicle that has been taken on trails and maintained for that purpose than one that takes trips to the mall with minimal maintenance. I hope the next owner is a fellow enthuiast and I don't want any surprises.
Passenger heated seat doesn't heat. Crease on passenger door side (trail damage from tree and hi-lift, see images in reply below). Clear coat is starting to fade. Dash cover replacement (fits well and covers cracked dash). Intermittent suspension fault display (false positive, doesn't cause vehicle to drop, just shows fault and goes away after a few minutes (or with restart or GAP tool reset). Infrequent, random engine misfire code (misfire in first 1K rpms), seems to be related to colder weather and either goes away after x cycles without the issue or with code clearing. To address this, I replaced spark plugs within the last 5K miles and one suspect coil, but that didn't do the trick. Maybe MAF, but I haven't chased it down. Infrequent enough that the vehicle passed emissions a month ago. Tires are OK, a year or so left, but they are on the back half of their life. Electronic parking brake doesn't work - hasn't for 10 years. Instead of spending $3k for a body-off replacement, I carry wheel chocks. Note that emergency brake works fine, as a redundant system; it's just the electronically activated parking brake that doesn't work. Lazy door lock actuators (not on drivers door), such that when you press lock on the key fob, it sets the alarm system but doesn't always lock all the doors. If needed, I manually press the door locks in (just like the old days) before exiting the drivers door to ensure that all doors are actually locked.
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
The vehicle: 2005 Land Rover LR3 HSE w/ HD Package (locking rear differential). 214K miles. Overland enthusiast owned (since 94K miles). HD package, Cold Weather Package, Towing Package, 7 Seat Package. Owners manuals, 2 keys, thick folder with maintenance records. NO LEAKS. Engine strong, transmission solid and smooth.
- Oil changes every 5K.
- Diff and transfer case fluids changed every 1 - 2 yrs (diff oil always clean when drained and magnets don't have any shavings)
- Transmission flushed / changed 4x since I've had it.
Lots of overland/offroad extras. I would like to sell as "turnkey" overland vehicle with all the build items.
- 18-in rims with BFG ATKO 2 (265 65 18). Full size matching spare.
- ARB air compressor mounted under hood (for air-up and on-trail repair)
- Yaesue Ham Radio (stealth install: I usually mount the head-unit and mic for trips only)
- Traxide dual battery system with Optima Yellow Top as second battery (2x 12v and USB outlets direct to 2nd battery, great for fridge, images in next reply)
- Baja roof rack with shovel/axe mount and hi-lift mount
- Complete set of Asfir skid plates (images in next reply)
- Front Runner ladder
- Terra Firma rock sliders (a couple dents where they have done their job - instant credibility)
- Trailer hitch
- Knightsbridge tactical seat covers, front (I have removed them for the sale, so you can see the seats are in good shape). Here's a link to the Knightsbridge site to see the seat covers: https://knightsbridgeoverland.com/c...ers/products/land-rover-lr3-front-seat-covers
- 3M matte black hood cover
Many new mechanical bits:
Water pump, front prop shaft, rear prop shaft, front tie rods, front upper control arms, drop links, arb bushings, front windshield, panoramic roof glass, oil change all in the last 1K miles (getting ready to sell). Front lower control arms, AMD compressor, and all diff and transfer, and transmission fluids changed in the last 5K miles.
Price: $7,500
It's a Land Rover thing - known problems. Disclaimer, this is a 19-year-old vehicle that has been used in the field - what it is built for. It can be better to buy a vehicle that has been taken on trails and maintained for that purpose than one that takes trips to the mall with minimal maintenance. I hope the next owner is a fellow enthuiast and I don't want any surprises.
Passenger heated seat doesn't heat. Crease on passenger door side (trail damage from tree and hi-lift, see images in reply below). Clear coat is starting to fade. Dash cover replacement (fits well and covers cracked dash). Intermittent suspension fault display (false positive, doesn't cause vehicle to drop, just shows fault and goes away after a few minutes (or with restart or GAP tool reset). Infrequent, random engine misfire code (misfire in first 1K rpms), seems to be related to colder weather and either goes away after x cycles without the issue or with code clearing. To address this, I replaced spark plugs within the last 5K miles and one suspect coil, but that didn't do the trick. Maybe MAF, but I haven't chased it down. Infrequent enough that the vehicle passed emissions a month ago. Tires are OK, a year or so left, but they are on the back half of their life. Electronic parking brake doesn't work - hasn't for 10 years. Instead of spending $3k for a body-off replacement, I carry wheel chocks. Note that emergency brake works fine, as a redundant system; it's just the electronically activated parking brake that doesn't work. Lazy door lock actuators (not on drivers door), such that when you press lock on the key fob, it sets the alarm system but doesn't always lock all the doors. If needed, I manually press the door locks in (just like the old days) before exiting the drivers door to ensure that all doors are actually locked.
Last edited:
, a wax job and back-to-black do wonders. I took random photos from various angles. Somebody inquired about the passenger side damage, so here are a couple to try to highlight that.