Sound Deadener Showdown in Maryland, was a staple in the DIY car audio industry for many years. Sadly, Don has retired and closed SDS, as of early 2019. I was looking through some old notes today and came across his site, which I found to be down, as of early 2020.
Thankfully, there is an archived version of that site, here:
As there is no telling how long this will be up, it would be wise to make notes or save the pages that interest you.
How To: https://web.archive.org/web/20201031153434/https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/how-to
Sound deadening a van: https://web.archive.org/web/2020103...nddeadenershowdown.com/camper-van-conversions
Highlights: DO NOT COVER your floor or ceiling in Dynamat or any other single material. This adds unnecessary weight, takes money out of your pocket and actually DECREASES performance. There is a science to sound deadening and no one material does everything. Companies from Rolls Royce to high end home theater builders have used decoupling for years, to isolate, damp and limit NVH, in one form or another by using multiple, specific materials to accomplish a task. Layering is the key, again, using multiple, decoupled materials, nominally a constraining layer, a moisture/thermal barrier and a sound damping layer, often MLV. Additional products such as Thinsulate or varying densities of specialty foams can be used to tune or tailor the space to meet your requirements.
If you doubt the value of proper sound damping, go take a ride in a new Lexus, Bentley or Rolls and prepare to be astonished. Everything from heavy felt-like material inside the fender wells to special 'mats' placed inside the tires, is used to keep unwanted noise out of the cabin. While this may or may not be your goal, you can take a page from this book and improve sound damping, corrosion resistance and thermal performance of your van, SUV or camper. If you ride a GS1200, nothing on this page will help you.
Thankfully, there is an archived version of that site, here:
Sound Deadener Showdown | Your Vehicle Quiet
Vehicle sound deadening is a process, not a product. Vibration dampers, barriers, acoustic foams and decouplers each play a role. Learn what they do and how to use them. Do it once, do it right, enjoy the results.
web.archive.org
As there is no telling how long this will be up, it would be wise to make notes or save the pages that interest you.
How To: https://web.archive.org/web/20201031153434/https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/how-to
Sound deadening a van: https://web.archive.org/web/2020103...nddeadenershowdown.com/camper-van-conversions
Highlights: DO NOT COVER your floor or ceiling in Dynamat or any other single material. This adds unnecessary weight, takes money out of your pocket and actually DECREASES performance. There is a science to sound deadening and no one material does everything. Companies from Rolls Royce to high end home theater builders have used decoupling for years, to isolate, damp and limit NVH, in one form or another by using multiple, specific materials to accomplish a task. Layering is the key, again, using multiple, decoupled materials, nominally a constraining layer, a moisture/thermal barrier and a sound damping layer, often MLV. Additional products such as Thinsulate or varying densities of specialty foams can be used to tune or tailor the space to meet your requirements.
If you doubt the value of proper sound damping, go take a ride in a new Lexus, Bentley or Rolls and prepare to be astonished. Everything from heavy felt-like material inside the fender wells to special 'mats' placed inside the tires, is used to keep unwanted noise out of the cabin. While this may or may not be your goal, you can take a page from this book and improve sound damping, corrosion resistance and thermal performance of your van, SUV or camper. If you ride a GS1200, nothing on this page will help you.
