sound deadening material

simple

Adventurer
Started a cutaway cube van build and am looking at insulation systems.

Has anyone used DB Sound Control Solutions DB3 for anything? I found it while browsing acoustic batts and barriers on the H Depot web site.
I'm wondering if a layer of this bonded against the body panels with a layer of reflectix bonded over top of that would be a good combo for sound deadening and insulation?

DB3
http://www.dbsoundcontrol.com/db3

Also, what have people used besides Dynamat?
 

tookstar154

Observer
I'm going to use FatMat on the whole floor of my van. Amazon has it for about $200 for 100 square feet. Should be plenty to do the whole floor.
 

Petrolburner

Explorer
This is what I'm planning on sticking to the inside of the body sheet metal. You only need to cover something like 25% of the surface area to knock down the harmonic resonation. I have a passenger van with the plastic interior panels. I'm planning on keeping the plastic panels, and I may stick some of these scraps to the inside of plastic panels too. I'm not sure what to use to fill up the dead space in the walls. I'm not real keen on the idea of taking fiberglass insulation and stuffing it in there because of moisture, although I do live in the desert. Something needs to be done though, because as soon as the heater shuts off I can feel the temp rapidly dropping if it's cold outside.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_28929-1410-FV516_1z0uk7mZ1z0vit3__
 

_hein_

Observer
We recommend 3M Thinsulate (TM) sound/thermal insulation which is engineered for vehicles.

The fibers are hydrophobic. In addition to thermal insulation, noise absorption and blocking,
Thinsulate(TM) also does a great job reducing panel resonance.

With Thinsulate(TM), there is no need to cover the entire vehicle with a mass loading product.

Please email (heinvs)@(impact3d.com) or call (54l-49O-5O98) if you would like to request a
sample.
 

_hein_

Observer
isn't 25% the tipping point for mass loading materials such as dynamat?

Yes, I don't know why people coat their whole vehicle with it. It may be that there are just too many pictures of Dynamated-to-death vehicles out there. Thinsulate(TM) will dampen any panel it is against; it is lightweight plus blocks/absorbs noise and also adds thermal insulation. It is easy to install.

We stock 3M SM600L which is the thickest vehicle grade Thinsulate(TM) available. It comes off the roll at about 1" thick and expands to 1 3/4" thick when installed and allowed to fill space. It won't push out panels. The 600 refers to the grams of Thinsulate per square yard. 200 weight would be 1/3 the material. Below is a diagram showing where OEMs use it in vehicles. Our current pricing is 8.88/linear ft. Most vans require 40-60 linear ft.

Hein
Impact, Inc.
Hood River, OR
54l 49O 5O98

BlobServlet
 
Last edited:

Petrolburner

Explorer
Yes the mass loading materials don't need to cover every inch. I understand it that the mass loading materials do a different job than the insulation. You want to knock down the vibration of the panel with the mass loading stuff, then use insulation to dampen the temperature and noise, then an airtight plastic barrier.
 

philos

Explorer
Pro tip:
Fat mat and many of the cheaper sound dampening materials will have asphalt in them, and therefore stink, it will also break down and fall off of vertical surfaces in high heat. Use a butyl material over the previously mentioned 25% of area for the best combo of efficacy and budgeting. Butyl also won't smell from day one.
You'll also want several types of material to combat the many types of road/ambient/engine/etc noise.
I've found a combo that works for me: butyl dampening sheets in strategic spots, ensolite over everything I can cover, reflectix over the ensolite, harbor freight puzzle flooring over the reflectix, cover that with your trim.
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Pro tip:
Fat mat and many of the cheaper sound dampening materials will have asphalt in them, and therefore stink, it will also break down and fall off of vertical surfaces in high heat. Use a butyl material over the previously mentioned 25% of area for the best combo of efficacy and budgeting. Butyl also won't smell from day one.
You'll also want several types of material to combat the many types of road/ambient/engine/etc noise.
I've found a combo that works for me: butyl dampening sheets in strategic spots, ensolite over everything I can cover, reflectix over the ensolite, harbor freight puzzle flooring over the reflectix, cover that with your trim.

Good stuff thanks.
Maybe it's diluted over time, but a few years later, my FatMat isn't stinky nor flaking off vertical surfaces during hot summers.
 

bknudtsen

Expedition Leader
Good stuff thanks.
Maybe it's diluted over time, but a few years later, my FatMat isn't stinky nor flaking off vertical surfaces during hot summers.

It smelled at first. I'm less worried about the heat being an issue as much as the cold cycles causing the adhesive to let go. I wish they used a better aluminum foil too. Definitely, an affordable option, but butyl is the way to go.

I have switched to butyl backed Raammat followed by Ensolite. Worked so well in the Tacoma, and I can't recommend it enough. Haven't decided if I will do the same in Agnes. She's pretty quiet with just the OEM sound control. It's the sub-par interior plastics and vinyls that are making all the noise.
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
It smelled at first. I'm less worried about the heat being an issue as much as the cold cycles causing the adhesive to let go. I wish they used a better aluminum foil too. Definitely, an affordable option, but butyl is the way to go.

I have switched to butyl backed Raammat followed by Ensolite. Worked so well in the Tacoma, and I can't recommend it enough. Haven't decided if I will do the same in Agnes. She's pretty quiet with just the OEM sound control. It's the sub-par interior plastics and vinyls that are making all the noise.

You're ubiquitous! :sombrero:
VANdiana sounds pleasant enough, I won't be redoing your arduous work. But maybe I'll add some Ensolite under the flooring when MG does the interior build.
 

fog cutter

Adventurer
what're y'all using in doors with windows? i've got the inner panels out of the savana side & back doors, and there's enough light coming through the door stop & weep holes to read by. dynamat i'm not concerned about with wind driven moisture, but i don't know what to use for insulation. ensolite & neoprene will probably hold water/ mold.
 

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