Sound Deadening Options?

aka rover

Adventurer
I know this is a old thread but im ready to install sound deadner and or heat reduction meterial on my 109 thats getting a diese conversionl. The bulkhead has fresh paint and I was thinking about a product that would go outside on the fire wall. I really didnt want to install anything inside as i wanted to keep the interior in the front mud freindly so i could just hose it out IE no carpet.

I read all the post and was wondering if there was a product out now that will work between motor and bulkhead.

Thanks Guys and Gals

Ed
 

98roamer

Explorer
When I was researching how to make the 99 Powerstroke F350 cab quiet, I remember reading somewhere (I know, not real helpful) that most of the noise from the engine is transferred into the cab via the windshield and the best bang for you buck, is to sound proof the hood. I'll try to find that article and post it here.
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
There is a latex based paint with microspheres that I used on my Troopie that would help. It sound deadens & insulates.
I have a thread here and am posting up a link to where I bought it.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ent-Sound-Deadening-amp-Insulation?highlight=

http://www.hytechsales.com/prodrc233.html

Oh and you can do alot of cleaning if you go with a vinyl floor...sure might not be able to "hose" it out but you can sure clean it easy.
That would let you do plenty of insulation and yet have an easy to clean floor.
 

greasyfingers

New member
Check out Lizard Skin sound proofing. It's srpay-on deadener that can withstand 300*F


When I was researching how to make the 99 Powerstroke F350 cab quiet, I remember reading somewhere (I know, not real helpful) that most of the noise from the engine is transferred into the cab via the windshield and the best bang for you buck, is to sound proof the hood. I'll try to find that article and post it here.

A major source of noise is the injectors. A few people have used spray-on bedliner on the 7.3 valve covers and have had good success in noise controll.
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
Lizard Skin is the same basic stuff as what I linked to .....just a bunch more money.
This has been well explored in the Street Rod community, use some google power and you will see what I am talking about.

I will be gutting my 1970 Suburban and giving it the same treatment my Troopie got, made a great big difference here in Arizona.
 

aka rover

Adventurer
The hood makes sense to me and one of the easy places to do some testing.

Thanks again guys all good info.
 

Logans91XJ

Dirt Road Anthem
I am in need to replace my headliner and thought that it would be a great time to lay on some sound-denting material also I want to cut down on heat. I've got a newborn on the way and want my little man to be happy. I would really like to know what the best option is for the headliner.

Two Main Things

*Heat & Sound*
 

Palehorse1

Observer
I'm surprized no one has posted this link yet:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

More about sound deadener and the sound deadening process than you would ever want to know...

Agreed, between emails with Don and the descriptions on his website he has taken great care in explaining the best method to get the desired results out of my double cab Tacoma and his prices are lower than many other alternatives. I've included a conversation with Don about the 2nd gen double cab Tacomas for anyone that is interested in undertaking the project for themselves and the only caveat I'm propelled to include is that the prices may have changed since then but a quick trip to his site can indicate any adjustment required for your calculations.

Don @ SounddeadenerShowdown said:
I'm reluctant to cite percentages without proof, but the MLV and CCF
probably contribute something like 90% to making the truck quieter.
Vibration dampers like my CLD Tiles or Dynamat Xtreme control panel
resonance. Panel resonance destroys sound quality by reinforcing the
resonant frequency and harmonics if the RF of the vibrating part. It's
also an important mechanism for noise transmission through the vehicle.

Using a vibration damper alone is an option for an already quiet vehicle
with an aftermarket sound system that exceeds the OEM specs. For most of
us, using a vibration damper and barrier is the key to bringing noise
levels down and reducing vehicle induced distortion making the sound
system sound better and making the driving experience much more pleasant.

The floor is one of the least resonant areas of the vehicle. Between the
carpet and the seats, it's usually pretty solid. On the other hand, the
floor is the entry point for most of the problematic noise sources -
engine, exhaust and tire.

The roof is more a problem for resonance than airborne sound. It's a
huge area of sheet metal, right above your head. It can also be a
problem for air turbulence noise. Since there are very few noise sources
overhead, there's not much point to installing a barrier on the roof.
Vibration damper, definitely. It can also help to add a layer of 1/4"
CCF to deal with high frequency noise.

Lets' start with the doors.

Front Doors (each):
5 CLD Tiles, outer skin
2 CLD Tiles, cut into smaller pieces, each inner skin
Extruded Butyl Rope
6.14 ft² MLV
6.14 ft² 1/4" CCF
2.5 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides

Rear Doors (each):
4 CLD Tiles, outer skin
2 CLD Tiles, cut into smaller pieces, each inner skin
Extruded Butyl Rope
5.45 ft² MLV
5.45 ft² 1/4" CCF
2.5 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides

Start by pressing Extruded Butyl Rope (EBR) between the outer skin and
the side impact protection beams. Leave gaps every few inches to allow
water to drain. Cut some strips from a heavy plastic bag and press them
into the top surface of the EBR to protect it from dirt.

Apply half the CLD Tiles allocated to the outer skin above and half
below the side impact protection beam. Cut 2 more CLD Tiles into smaller
pieces and apply them to the inner door skin.

Hang MLV on the inner door skin using Velcro Patches with pressure
sensitive adhesive on both sides. The patches are 2"X4" but you can cut
them in half for this application (most applications really). Start with
2 pieces in the top corners to hold the MLV in place while you trim it
to fit. You want it to be as large as it can be - just barely fitting
inside the trim panel when it is replaced. You will need to cut some
holes in the MLV to allow cables, rods, shafts, wires, clips and the
speakers to come through. You want these holes to be as small as
possible. Every place we use MLV we are building a barrier and a barrier
needs to be as large and contiguous as possible.

It helps during the fitting process to periodically remove the MLV from
the door and lay it in the trim panel to test fit it. The Velcro makes
this easy. When you first hang the MLV on the door, cut holes where the
trim panel clips go into the door. You can then use these holes to
orient the MLV inside the trim panel.

When you are satisfied with the MLV fit, add two more Velcro Patch
pieces to the bottom corners. It's generally a good idea to add a third
piece on top for added strength. Finally, use HH-66 Vinyl Cement to tack
a layer of closed cell foam (CCF) on the side of the MLV facing the trim
panel. When the trim panel is reinstalled, the CCF will compress
slightly, getting rid of rattles and buzzes in the trim panel itself and
between the trim panel and the inner door skin.

Doors (totals):
26 CLD Tiles
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
23.18 ft² MLV
23.18 ft² 1/4" CCF
10 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides

Floor:

As I mentioned, the floor is the entry point for many of the most
objectionable noise sources we deal with.

22 CLD Tiles
37.92 ft² MLV
37.92 ft² 1/4" CCF

The floor is quite easy compared to the doors, except that you need to
remove the seats, the carpet and any trim that touches the carpet. Start
with CLD Tiles at 25% coverage. There's no good reason to apply CLD
Tiles on top of the stock deadener. In some cases the stock deadener is
loose and you can just pull it out. If it is in good shape, leave it in
place and apply the CLD Tiles to the bare metal areas. If you want to
remove the stock deadener anyway, you can often scrape it out with a
heat gun and a putty knife. A quicker option may be laying dry ice on
top of it for a few minutes and then hitting it with a rubber mallet.
With any luck the stock deadener will shatter and you can just pick up
the loose pieces and vacuum the residue.

Cut 1/4" CCF to fit the bottoms of the floor pans and up into the foot
wells and lay it in place. You really don't need any adhesive or other
attachment products for the floor. Gravity, the carpet and trim panels
will hold everything in place. Finally, lay MLV on top of the CCF,
extending up the center tunnel, sills and everywhere you can without
interfering with trim panel replacement. You will need to cut holes for
the seat bolt downs and seat belt anchors if they are on the floor.
Again, make these holes as small as possible. You are basically
upholstering the floor with MLV. MLV is quite flexible and will easily
follow a simple curve. Where it needs to be fitted to complex curves you
will need to do some cutting. Use HH-66 to seal the seams in the MLV as
you go.

Roof:
10 CLD Tiles
19 ft² 1/4" CCF
6 Velcro Patches, adhesive 1 side

Apply the CLD Tiles to the pen areas of sheet metal. Cut the Velcro
Patches in half (2"X2") a and use HH-66 Vinyl Cement to bond the
non-adhesive side of the Velcro to the CCF. Peel off the release film
from the adhesive side of the Velcro and press into place.

Back Wall:
5 CLD Tiles
7.67 ft² MLV
7.67 ft² 1/8" CCF
6 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides

The back wall doesn't usually have enough space for 1/4" CCF. That's why
I specified 1/8". I've attached a PDF that demonstrates how to hang CCF
and MLV in the least space possible.

General Notes

HH-66 is a contact adhesive. You need to coat both surfaces and let them
dry until just tacky, 3-5 minutes. Press the two parts together. The
bond is more than strong enough to work with immediately. It will
achieve its full strength after a few hours.

When working with the self-adhesive side(s) the Velcro Patches press the
entire assembly into place. It is a good idea to gently separate the
hook and loop sides and press them down by themselves to make sure the
bond is complete.

Totals:
63 CLD Tiles
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
68.77 ft² MLV
80.1 ft² 1/4" CCF
7.67 ft² 1/8" CCF
16 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides
6 Velcro Patches, adhesive 1 side
1 8 oz can HH-66

As an order:
63 CLD Tiles @ 2.25 = $141.75
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope @ 8.75 = 8.75
1 67.5 ft² roll MLV @ 121.50 = 121.50
6 sheets 1/4" CCF @ 25.65 = 153.90
1 sheet 1/8" CCF @ 13.85 = 13.85
1 Velcro Patches, adh. 2 sides, 10-pack @ 13.00 = 13.00
3 Velcro Patches, adh. 2 sides @ 3.25 = 9.75
3 Velcro Patches, adh. 1 side @ 2.65 = 7.95
1 8 oz can HH-66 @ 8.50 = 8.50
1 2" Maple Roller N/C

Sub Total: $478.95

I'll need a city and zip to calculate shipping. My MLV supplier ships
roll quantities of MLV for me, so I won't be able to get their shipping
quote until tomorrow morning.

--
Don Sambrook

Sound Deadener Showdown, LLC
410.458.6418
don@sounddeadenershowdown.com
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com
 

wagoneercraig

Observer
I'm not sure how wise this is . But since my truck is relic anyways . I spayed house expanding foam into all the screw wholes holding my interior trim pieces . Especially the windsheild pillars and the leading edge of the roof . Dramaticaly reduced the road noise . I did not fill the the back portion of the roof for condensation to be able to drain away.
I am in need to replace my headliner and thought that it would be a great time to lay on some sound-denting material also I want to cut down on heat. I've got a newborn on the way and want my little man to be happy. I would really like to know what the best option is for the headliner.

Two Main Things

*Heat & Sound*
 

titleguy

Observer
I'm not sure how wise this is . But since my truck is relic anyways . I spayed house expanding foam into all the screw wholes holding my interior trim pieces . Especially the windsheild pillars and the leading edge of the roof . Dramaticaly reduced the road noise . I did not fill the the back portion of the roof for condensation to be able to drain away.

I've bee thinking of doing this on my LJ windshield frame, but am nervous about it expanding too much and causing damage. Any advice to offer on how you did this. Did ou just use great stuff?
 

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