South Africa - Lesotho Dec 07/Jan 08

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
Recap on a (too short) South Africa trip.

Life is all about compromises and choices.

The next step for us in our round-the-world trip is to drive our Troopie across Africa, from Cape Town to Europe. This has been a dream for me since I worked in West Africa 9 years ago. But for the moment, a very exciting contract in San Francisco (for me) and full time grad school (for Persephone) makes it impossible to leave for several months.

So the next best thing was to squeeze a few weeks of traveling to help us wait until the moment arrives. Furthermore, there is so much to do and see in Southern Africa that during my last trip there I realized it would be a shame to drive across solely for the sake of saying we’ve done it.

Financially it also helps to break down the trip and make some money to make necessary upgrades to our aging companion - but more on this on a separate thread.

So here’s a quick overview of our trip with some more pictures:

Part 1

Johannesburg:


First we flew into Johannesburg. As you know this city is considered to be one of the most dangerous in the world, and looking at the barbwires, gated communities and newspapers you certainly feel this vibe.

large.jpg


However I never had any bad experience and I do not dislike this city. We spent Christmas Eve with Rob and his family. Rob lives in San Francisco and his family emigrated from Zimbabwe following all the troubles over there.

large.jpg


I really think a trip to the Apartheid Museum is a must if you want to really dig into the South African history. The Apartheid era is much more complex than I had realized and it would be hard to understand the and appreciate S.A. if you don’t have an understanding of the history and various ethnic groups that have molded this country.

large.jpg


The next day we were off to Pretoria to meet our friend Jan and take possession of our Troopie! I had sent it over to N1 4x4 to make some repairs and I was anxious to see the results.

Unfortunately the honeymoon was short lived as I quickly discovered a major oil leak – so big in fact that it would have been crazy to hit the road with the truck. Luckily we were able to contact N1 4x4 and they managed to get someone (back from his vacation!) to get the truck and fix the leak – which turned out to be a gasket seal.

Kruger National Park

While the truck was back at their shop, Jan gladly offered that we use his VW Jetta. We had bookings at Kruger and since everything was full we did not want to loose our reservations so we accepted the offer and hit the road. Kruger is about 5 hours drive from Pretoria on a really good road.

You don’t really need a 4x4 to access Kruger and drive through the park as most roads are paved and even the gravel roads are in excellent condition.

There is however a 4x4 road the goes through the entire length of the park (from South to North) that I would love to do one day. They only allow one group of 4-6(?) vehicles at the time, twice a week, so bookings is essential.

large.jpg


Kruger was fantastic. We were a bit out of season to see the Big Five but we got lucky and managed to see tons of zebra, elephants, lions, etc, etc.


large.jpg


We stayed at 3 different camps where we also had 3 very different experiences…

Pretoriusskop: It was the more luxurious of the 3 as we got a very nice roundavel (hut) but the scenery was not the best

Balule/Olifants: Balule is a very rustic fenced camp with only showers and no other facilities. We used our tent and camp there for a night. Close to Balule is Olifants, one of the major camp and also one the most spectacular view I have seen. On the way out from Olifant we had the chance to see an entire family of lions – the male, females and 3 babies!


large.jpg



Lower Sabie: At Lower Sabie we managed to get the last place available - a small hut witn only one single bed. So I slept on the floor that night…
Lower Sabie is just alongside a gorgeous river, and this whole area is one of the best place to see all the animal.

large.jpg


Then it was time to go back to Pretoria to finally get the truck. At this point our initial plan to drive up to Botswana was starting to change, as going back to Pretoria was putting us back to the starting point….but 4 days later...
 

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
Part 2:

Lesotho/Drakensberg


So with temperature around 34-38 Celcius, 1000 km to drive to get to Maun, some roads close due to the rainy season, and not enough time to see everything I wanted, we decided instead to drive South and go see Lesotho and the Wild Coast/Transkei. While at first it was a bit of a setback, it turned out to be a fabulous experience – in my opinion better than rushing up to Botswana (which I had already seen some parts). We’ll go back next time.

What a treat we got. Persephone wanted to get a real feel of Africa and she got it there. While the scenery is not what would you expect (it’s very green and moutaineous), the local population is exactly as you can imagine. Kids are running everywhere, they ask for “sweets”, wave at you. The locals are very friendly and you don’t feel the same tension as you get in S.A.

We slowly made our way through the grandiose mountains.


large.jpg


large.jpg


I was hoping to make it to Sani Top Lodge (Highest Pub in Africa) in time to celebrate the 31th (NYE) but we only managed to get half way there…We ended spending the night and celebrating at Oxbow lodge with the locals as there were very few other tourists. It was quite a different experience from last year when I was in Rio with 1 million people…but we had a really good time!

large.jpg



Next day we finally reached Sani Top and the infamous Sani Pass. We had an excellent dinner there and camped in a field nearby the lodge. There were a few more South Africans there but still very few tourists.

large.jpg
 

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
Part 3

Wild Coast/Transkai


From Sani Pass we started descending and eventually reached the Wild Coast. We also started to get rain…a lot of rain. And crazy lightening!

large.jpg


We spent a couple days at Umtata as I had found a good Internet café and I had to do some work.

Coffee Bay

We arrived in Coffee Bay just after lunch. We drove over a bridge to a small peninsula to check out a hotel and have lunch. When we left the place about 1 hour later, the bridge was totally flooded. I have gone through a lot of water with my truck, but this time I had to declare forfeit. The current was too strong to risk it. The bridge being the only way out, we reversed back to the hotel and booked the only room that was left!!!

large.jpg


Eventually the next day the water has lowered enough that regular cars could cross over.

large.jpg


The area around Coffee Bay is wonderful – even with the bad weather it is easy to see how perfect it is:

large.jpg


My local guide:

large.jpg


Local backpackers place:

large.jpg



The Haven

Next day we kept exploring the coast and after a very long corrugated and muddy road we ended up at one of South Africa most beautiful (and remote) park. We spent a night there and had a great time chatting with South Africans as we were once again the only foreigners in the lodge…

After driving off road for a little while in the rain forest we finally found a wonderful desolated water falls. With all the recent rain, it was amazing!

large.jpg


large.jpg
 

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
Part 4:

Cape Town


On Sunday it was already time to hit the road and get to Cape Town.

This town lived up to its expectations. We discovered a city with beautiful beaches, international crowds, trendy spots and beautiful sceneries.

The first day we arrived it was really windy but eventually the next days were gorgeous!

large.jpg


We have had a really good time and none of us wanted to leave. We cannot wait to go back!

large.jpg


large.jpg


And a final bath to our truck before the storage (and finally removing these ugly pink curtains!)

large.jpg


large.jpg


A few side notes:

-Fuel cost is about 7.7 Rand for 1 liter (diesel). This is about $5.20US/gallon.
My truck can carry about 160 liters…so we are talking $190US to fill it up. Ouch.

-Distances are huge in Southern Africa. You can expect to drive a lot, and traffic is pretty fast. Most highways have a speed limit of 120 km/h. And there is a lot of hills.

-One of the most useful things we carry with us is a portable printer. We started distributing pictures to locals and we made tons of friends in a second. People were so happy it’s unbelievable.

large.jpg

large.jpg


Epilogue...

But even though this trip was only a few weeks, it was fantastic.

Our truck is not perfect and does not have all the latest gadgets.
And we did not have enough time to do everything we wanted..

But ultimately, the goal is to go out there and have fun.
Do it before it’s too late!

:)

And let me know if you have questions about S.A. – I really love this country.
 

Clutch

<---Pass
Beautiful country side, Christain.

Really like the picture of the surf. Looks mystical with the mist blowing about.
 

OutbacKamper

Supporting Sponsor
Christian;

Wow, what a trip! You did an excellent job on this trip report - Thank you. I enjoyed it all but my favorite part was the last 2 sentances:

"But ultimately, the goal is to go out there and have fun.
Do it before it’s too late!"

Very well said, many of us (me included) spend too much time and money on "stuff" and not enough time just traveling.

Cheers
Mark
 

suntinez

Explorer
OutbacKamper said:
Christian;

Wow, what a trip! You did an excellent job on this trip report - Thank you. I enjoyed it all but my favorite part was the last 2 sentances:

"But ultimately, the goal is to go out there and have fun.
Do it before it’s too late!"

Very well said, many of us (me included) spend too much time and money on "stuff" and not enough time just traveling.

Cheers
Mark


Hear hear! Great trip report, really enjoyed it, nicely done!

Can't wait to see where you go once you get back for the long trip! I've got Africa on the brain today, must have just gravitated over here somehow :jumping:
 

spressomon

Expedition Leader
Christian,
Thank you for your narrative and excellent photos! We will be in SA in March for a quick trip we won. We fly into Johannesburg only to catch a flight to Cape Town where we will get to relax for a couple days. Then up Kruger National Park for the remainder of the stay.

Having never been to Africa getting a look at your photos and narrative gave us a much better appreciation for what we are about to see in March.

Dan
 

Spikepretorius

Explorer
Ten points for getting March. February/March is the best time of year in Cape Town. Steaming hot days but without the wind. Don't forget your hat.
 
Last edited:

p1michaud

Expedition Leader
South Africa

Very well written report. I'd like to visit Africa at some point in my life but untill then, thanks for posting.
 

Arivalsend

Adventurer
Great post, it was refreshing to see your pictures and progress. I have been planning a trip that way for years and I fear that I have fallen into the "well planned...undone" category. But thanks for the inspiration!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,527
Messages
2,906,258
Members
230,547
Latest member
FiscAnd

Members online

Top