Southern Africa : 20 days - 5 countries.

teebag

New member
How a chance meeting with an old friend in a London pub, lead me to a 20 day trip across 5 countries.
A report of my 1st overland experience and in fact my introduction to Landcruiser ownership.

Aug-Sept 2000

Participants:
J Tee, T Tee, A Goodin - 60G
J Ardagh and family - 80GX
C Nortjie and family - 80VX

Day 1 -1 week:
I wake early, it is going to be a long day. One last check to make sure I have everything ready for the trip and head outside and into the early morning hustle and bustle of London. I ride the Piccadilly line to work, fighting with my backpack through the crowded station. God I wish this day was over.

Finally it is time to go and Andrew and I head for Heathrow and the flight via Luxembourg, Johannesburg and finally to Cape Town.

Day 1 -6 days:
Cape Town, time to meet with Julian and sort out the purchasing of the Cruiser, he is sad to see it go a lot of memories there for him, but he now has the 80, and so the 60 is mine, well it will be by the end of the day after I have sorted out the registration and new license docs.

Day 1 -5 days:
To get a feel for the Cruiser we head out of town and up to Knynsa for a few days, I want to familiarise myself with the Cruiser and at the same time show Andrew a bit of the Cape.

Day 1 -3 days:
Back in Cape Town, and it is time to visit TW&T to fit a new set of tyres, I had done my research and had chosen Conti-something-or-others, "No we don’t stock those" the salesman says, "but we have these, the best tyre on the market" Yokahama Geolanders, and so I was mislead by a salesman, and not for the first time ;)

After the tyres, we head of to Macro, to by essentials like food and camping equipment and the next few days are spent packing and trying to find space in the Cruiser everything.

Day 1:
I wake Andrew and Tristan and head the packed Cruiser towards Julian's house and the start of our African adventure. Only Julian has been called to JHB for a last minute meeting, so he waves us off, and Simone(Julian's wife) will drive the first leg, and we will meet up again in Gabs.

We head out of Cape Town and up the N7, waiting at a filling station for Carl and the 3rd Land Cruiser in the convoy. We drive on - Vanrhynsdorp, Calvinia, Kenhardt, Kakamas, and on to Augrabies our 1st nights stop. If I think how long it took to get settled this first night, to set up camp and prepare the supper, I am surprised we didn't pack it all in and head home, but we didn't and eventually found ourselves around the campfire with full tummies and a bottle of port, which mysteriously vanished in the night ;)

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Day 2:
I think it took longer to pack up, than it did to set up last night, but we are done, and head back through Kakamas, to Upington, where I have to find the PG Autoglass, as it suddenly dawned on me that I had forgotten to insure the 60 :shock: So while I spend an hour or so sorting that out the others do some last minute shopping and replenish the depleted port stocks.

Sishen, Kuruman, Vryburg, Mafikeng, Zeerust, and we decide not to camp as it is late and we want to get an early start to meet Julian at Gabs international airport. Can't remember the name of the place we stayed, but we could not find food that night, the town was locked up tight, and all we could find was a dodgy café, with shrink wrapped sandwiches. So we went to bed, tired and hungry.

Day 3:
Our early start is out the window, breakfast is just too tempting, Julian will have to wait. We cross the 1st of many borders into Botswana and meet Julian, but only after being forced off the road for an official convoy to pass. We camp that night at the Khama Rhino sanctuary, and have our first real bush fire and settle in with stories of our journey thus far.

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Day 4:

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On to Kubu Island, with a brief stop at Letlhakane for petrol, we head out onto Sowa Pan, using only the Veronica Roodt guide and an old Magellan GPS (no T4A here) we make our way to Kubu. The attendant meets us at the big baobab, and asks us to follow him, he jumps on his ancient bicycle and races of at speed, with his assistant on foot behind. We ask about the wildlife and if there are any lion in the area, he tells us with a smile there are not.

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We quickly setup camp and set about exploring the island, walking firstly across and then back to camp around the circumference towards the setting sun. You feel really remote and alone out here, and after a while your mind starts to play tricks on you, and you wonder if the attendant was right, and just what you would do if you did come across a lion in the wilderness.

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The sun sinks in a firey sky and a million stars leap into the inky black heavens, we spent some time laying flat on our backs on the roof-rack, gazing up at the milky way. (Living in London you do not see many stars, and not many people there believe you can see so many with the naked eye).

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teebag

New member
Day 5-7:

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The track off the Pan to the north was clearer than the one coming in from the south and soon we are back on the tar again and on our way to Kazungula and the border with Zimbabwe. We see our first elephant crossing the road, stepping carefully over the 3 wire fence. Our stop over for a few days is to be the government camp site at Victoria Falls, even in 2000 this large campsite on the river was empty, except for the resident dog, warthog and hippo, that liked to sleep in the bushes, next to the ablutions :shock:

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We spent a few days in Vic Falls, an did the touristy stuff, curios, booze cruise and topped it off with a day rafting the mighty Zambezi with Shearwater. Great fun :mrgreen:

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Day 8:
A leisurely day, crossing into Zambia, and then back into Botswana, via the Kazungula ferry and camping in a crowded Chobe Safari Lodge :(

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Day 9:
Today is the day, we head into the delta, via Chobe, and Savuti. Lunch is at Savuti and the new bunker ablutions have just been completed, the surrounding camping area is a dust bowl, and there are broken trees everywhere. We push on to Moremi, and decide to take the marsh road to North Gate. The road is good but late in the day we come to a long flooded stretch and can see no clear way around, so as Julian is towing a trailer, I am sent on my 1st ever water crossing, with the promise that if I get stuck they will come and fetch me. The water is not deep and crossing is not a problem, but it is possible to drive on the edge of the water, and I return this way to tell the others. Round about this time we realise that we are lost, well not actually lost, because we are right where we should be, according to the map, but that is not where it says it is :evil:

So the sun is setting and we are not really sure where to go next, the co-ordinates on the map have lead us to the middle of a thorn thicket, there are hyena about, and so many tracks and game paths we don’t know which one to follow. Flashing my lights I try to attract the attention of a lodge vehicle but they just ignore us and turn away. Eventually I find my way to Kwai Lodge, and ask for directions, and we finally make it to the gate at North Gate.

The guard is not impressed, we should not be driving about in the dark, we should not be lost, and the gate is now closed, we ask what he wants us to do, reluctantly he opens the gate and lets us cross into Moremi.

Day 10-11:
We move on to South Gate and explore the Moremi from here, with plenty of good game sightings, I somehow manage to change a setting on my new camera, and all photos after this are lost :evil:

On one of the Game drives, we meet up with a photographer who has managed to get well and truly stuck on one of the pole bridges, his Rangie has fallen through the rotten bridge, and is sitting on a heap of broken poles, with no wheels touching the ground. And so I get to assist with my 1st recovery, using my hi-lift, to enable us to remove most of the poles, we then inserted a few length-ways under the front wheels of the Rangie, to give it some traction and something to climb up. After about 2 hours we had him on his way, but he really was not prepared for such an event and had been sitting there in his car for an hour before we arrived.

Day 12-13:
Maun, and a chance to restock and eat take-aways ;) We spend an extra day to enable us to do an early morning flight over the Delta, magic stuff.

Day 14:
Sadly we say goodbye to Carl and family, he needs to head back to Cape Town, but the remaining two Cruisers head towards another border crossing and another country. It is a long day, and the new road from Maun to Ghanzi it not finished yet, but by the end of it we find ourselves that night in Windhoek, Namibia.

Day 15-17:
From Windhoek we head south over the Gamsberg Pass, at 2347m the highest pass in Namibia, and via Solitaire to Sossusvlei. This is my first visit to the Dunes, and we have an early morning start to meet the sunrise from the top of the dunes.

Day 18-19:
Our trip is almost over, but there is still time for a rest day at Ais-Ais, the campsite is a bit of a mess as they have just had some serious floods, but the hot springs are welcome and relaxing for tired muscles.

Day 20:
Friday and a long drive down the N7 back to Cape Town.

Day 20 +1:
We spend the day unpacking the Cruiser, and packing for our flight back to London.

Day 20 +2:
Andrew wanted to go up Table mountain, so we head of early and walk up Platteklip gorge, with the intention of riding the cable car back down again. Only to find that on reaching the top that it is closed for renovation, and so we have to turn around and race back down, to catch our plane.

The strange thing is you can climb on a plane in Cape Town, fly to London via 2 cities, and get off the other end, and you do not go outside even once, until you exit the train station near your home - Imagine the shock when you walk out into the murky grey London smog after the vast expanse of Africa, Imagine how small and pokey my little flat looked, and how I longed to be outside, under the stars, in Africa...

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Brett M

Adventurer
Wow, that's an awesome first time journey! Looks like you had a excellent time out there in Africa. I wish that I could say I've been there, but sadly, no.



Now, how much does it cost to ship a Jeep Cherokee over there? ;)
 

teebag

New member
Brett,

the jeep may be a little small for such a trip, unless there are only 2 of you...

Rather fly over and rent a fully kitted camper, there are various companies the offer from here, some not so good - but it's an idea ;)
 

Brett M

Adventurer
I so want to do a trip like that! I'll have to look into it more. Funds are tight right now, but getting out of the US is something I want to do bad!
 

Willman

Active member
Wow...what a pretty place to travel!


All these Africa expeditions is making want to fly over and join the party!

Thanks for sharing!

:camping:
 

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