Sprinter 4WD Conversion Idea, GMT-800 IFS.

[shade]

Have you found a shop that'll put a coat of something on it? There are a few galvanizing options within driving distance of you, and dipping it should ensure good coverage on the interior surfaces. As long as it doesn't cost too much, and you're done welding, I don't think you can beat that for protection and durability.

 

[luthj]

Yeah, its too complex to plate, but a hot dip would work. Just need to see what the cost would be.

 

[b dkw1]

Oddly, all the trailer frames down unda seem to be galvanized. Seems like a good option. Be ready to ream out the mounting holes though.

 

[luthj]

Paint doesn't last long on Aussie dirt roads. My vans suspension is a testament!

 

[shade]

Oddly, all the trailer frames down unda seem to be galvanized. Seems like a good option. Be ready to ream out the mounting holes though.

I've never worked with threads that have been dipped. Is it better to tap them, or plug with sacrificial bolts prior to galvanization?

 

[b dkw1]

I've never worked with threads that have been dipped. Is it better to tap them, or plug the, with sacrificial bolts prior to galvanization?

I have seen it done both ways for plating. Zinc is soft enough to clean out easily with a tap and a lot of lube. If you plug them it needs to be plastic bolts or you will weld steel ones in. Tapered rubber plugs also work for blind holes.

 

[luthj]

Greetings once more. I just noticed its been almost a full year since I started this thread. I think I am making good time, but I had hoped to be done by December.

A quick update. After trying to find a shop to PC and/or blast the subframe, I gave up. Most are closed or booked through the first week of Jan, or don't want to do a one-off. I wire wheeled and scuffed everything I could reach. Then I sprayed three coats of chassis saver urethane. I got a little bubbling due to uneven curing (sun is directional after all). But it came out okay. I plan to hit it with some rubberized undercoat a bit father down the road. Yes, I know my workbench is a disaster. I need to clean about 1/8" of grind dust off everything too...



I am going to do the final suspension/diff/rack test fit to finalized the spacers/shims today. I am off work till the 1st, so I will make decent progress. I just ordered wheels for the front, CV spacers, and studs for the tie rod adapters.

If everything arrives next week, I may try to mate everything up next weekend.

 

[luthj]

Wheel adapters for the rear are roughed out. 2 of the holes are very close. There is only 0.5mm wall thickness to the counterbore. I am undecided if I will go with studs or bolts. Price difference would probably minimal as one needs a counterbore (back side), and the other a tap operation.

 

[shade]

Not that you're likely to break a stud or bolt, but bolts would be easier to replace in the field.

 

[Charles R]

Personal choice? Stay with studs, and no threaded holes in the spacers. Reason? Just in case someone else ends up doing work on your vehicle, and they are ham-fisted, it's easier to swap a stud than re-thread a spacer. (my work history involves racing. lots of volunteer hands on the cars. )

 

[luthj]

Brief update. Control arms all fit. I ended up tacking some 0.2" spacer/washers to the bushing body. I will adjust the model for a tighter fit, but this was expedient.

Diff and rack are fitted up. I am using the rack off the van, so this is an old worn rack for testing. I also bent and flared new hard lines for the rack, which clear the diff body. I also tested a 1/2" CV spacer, and it seems to be a good thickness. I may go with a 3/4" spacer, but that can be changed down the road easy enough.







Still no word on the rack adapters. They are supposed to ship next week currently... Wheels should arrive tomorrow. I am not sure if I will just transfer my current (almost worn out) tires, or if I want to take guess at what size will fit. Current thoughts are a 265/70R16. Though I think a 265/75R16 will fit if I remove the front mudflaps (they need to come off for other reasons). The safe bet is to mount the current 245/75s and see what clearance I have, both to body metal and suspension.

Current track width is looking to be 2-3" wider than original. Once I get it measured, I can get the rear adapters made. I think I will go with studs to match the front. Might as well be consistent. I have already had one bolt hole stripped by ham-fisted warehouse workers.

 

[luthj]

Got the wheels today. A bit heavier than I thought. They fit fine, but the offset is a bit lower than I expected. Track width is about 69". I was aiming for 67". There is still a bit of backspacing available to the suspension, though I need to see what the calipers fit like. Going with a higher offset, depending on tire width I may get rubbing on the UCA at full droop and lock though. I think these wheels are about 26mm offset. So 50-60mm should do the trick. Though I am not sure if wheels are available at that size for reasonable cost.

 

[Charles R]

There are companies out there who can modify your steel wheels to change offset, and other things. Steel wheels and customizing them are very common in the circle track world. I have a pair of very custom 16"x10" wheels for a VW Kaman Ghia. Cost about $90 a wheel. It may be possible to simply relocate your center section as well.

 

[luthj]

Going through off the shelf wheel options.

GM Dually wheels have a 128mm offset. With a 75mm spacer they would be at around 50mm. I don't see any 3" spacers though, so it would need to be custom.

Early ram 2500 wheels are the right bolt pattern (need to see what the center bore is). They are available with ~50mm offset. They are 7" wide though, which may mean suspension interference due to back spacing.

My sprinters original wheels are ~75mm offset. They are only 6" wide which limits the tire width to 245. A wheel adapter/spacer thats about 25mm thick would give the right offset. I don't see any easy way to use the existing GM wheel studs, as they would interfere with the sprinters 5 bolt pattern.

 

[luthj]

I grabbed a Dodge ram 2500 wheel with 245/75R16 tire from the junkyard. This one is around 43mm offset. It fits fine, but the center bore is larger, and the lug seats are a different diameter. After giving it some thought, if I can keep the track width at 69", I think I am okay with that. Its about 3" larger than stock, so I will need a 1-1.5" flare to keep the rocks under control.

I think I want to get the suspension mounted up before I start playing around with wheels and tires too much. There are too many unknowns with wheel well clearance etc.