SRW wheel straightening

[pugslyyy]

I've been very happy with the SRW conversion I did, but am having some issues with balancing the tires. One of the rims is requiring 80 ounces to balance (or in other words, can't be balanced).

Anyone have pointers for where to get big steel rims straightened? The issue I'm running into is that most big rims these days are aluminum so the challenge is finding someone who can tackle steel.

 

[SkiFreak]

Have you tried balance beads?

 

[Aussie Iron]

I'd try balance beads. This is what I use :- http://callieskustoms.com/CalliesKustoms-Balancing Beads.html and am very pleased with them. I know I'm nowhere as out of balance as you, have you had a look to see if the rim has a thicker section in it ( from manufacture ) that could be thinned down ( lathe or other ways ) or is it buckled.

Dan.

Ebay Link :-http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NO-MORE-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afd2233fd

 

[pugslyyy]

I'd try balance beads. This is what I use :- http://callieskustoms.com/CalliesKustoms-Balancing Beads.html and am very pleased with them. I know I'm nowhere as out of balance as you, have you had a look to see if the rim has a thicker section in it ( from manufacture ) that could be thinned down ( lathe or other ways ) or is it buckled.

Dan.

Ebay Link :-http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NO-MORE-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afd2233fd

"Please understand these are not magic and wont fix flat spots, bent rims, poor steering geometry or worn out suspension components."

Thanks but I'm not looking for alternatives to lead rim weights, I'm looking for a way to get the rim straightened.

 

[mog]

I've been very happy with the SRW conversion I did, but am having some issues with balancing the tires. One of the rims is requiring 80 ounces to balance (or in other words, can't be balanced).
Anyone have pointers for where to get big steel rims straightened? The issue I'm running into is that most big rims these days are aluminum so the challenge is finding someone who can tackle steel.

I guess I'm a little confused.
When you did your SRW 'conversion' you started with brand new steel wheels correct?
Were they bent (un-straight) when you received them? Or have you bent them in your travels?
Have you ran the rim only on the machine to confirm that it is the rim and not the tire causing the problem?
I would do that and put a dial indicator on it so you will have the specs of how far it is out when you contact people.
I think your best bet would be companies that restore classic car steel rims as in most cases it is cheaper to replace a modern steel wheel, then repair it. The only problem is I'm sure the wheels they deal with normally are 13-15 inch diameter and 4.5 to 6.5 inches wide, so your giant (to them) wheel(s) might not fit on their machine.
Of course if it came bent, the seller should warranty it.
When I bought my super singles I had hear the tires (Falken WildPeaks) could be hard to balance in the very large sizes, so I confirmed will the seller they would taken back any that where too far out of balance.
Mine results were: 3 needed less then 1 oz, 2 needed about 2-3 ozs and 1 needed 7 ozs, and they run (when warmed up) like a ninja walking over ricepaper.

 

[pugslyyy]

I guess I'm a little confused.
When you did your SRW 'conversion' you started with brand new steel wheels correct?
Were they bent (un-straight) when you received them? Or have you bent them in your travels?
Have you ran the rim only on the machine to confirm that it is the rim and not the tire causing the problem?
I would do that and put a dial indicator on it so you will have the specs of how far it is out when you contact people.
I think your best bet would be companies that restore classic car steel rims as in most cases it is cheaper to replace a modern steel wheel, then repair it. The only problem is I'm sure the wheels they deal with normally are 13-15 inch diameter and 4.5 to 6.5 inches wide, so your giant (to them) wheel(s) might not fit on their machine.
Of course if it came bent, the seller should warranty it.
When I bought my super singles I had hear the tires (Falken WildPeaks) could be hard to balance in the very large sizes, so I confirmed will the seller they would taken back any that where too far out of balance.
Mine results were: 3 needed less then 1 oz, 2 needed about 2-3 ozs and 1 needed 7 ozs, and they run (when warmed up) like a ninja walking over ricepaper.

I've had an interesting waterfall of failures from one event - the PO had a set of new tires installed soon after he bought them (enroute home with the vehicle) and the lug nuts were MASSIVELY over-torqued.

When I brought the Fuso home after purchase, it was a huge effort to remove the frozen-on lugs, especially on the passenger rear hub. They all looked okay (threads were fine) but in retrospect I should have stopped right there and replaced the studs, but they seemed fine and it is a big job to undertake unless truly necessary so I didn't.

In September we did a ~6000 mile road trip in the Fuso. On the way home I noticed that one of the studs had broken off that right rear hub. With no parts and no way to fix it, we continued home.

At home, it took a huge effort to pull that wheel off -


I'm pretty sure that the loose/failing lugs allowed the center of the rim to bend over time.

So far, the total carnage from one road service technician 'snugging' on the bolts with a big truck impact wrench-
PARTS
1 - rear hub assembly with inner/outer bearings and seals
7 - studs
1 - SRW rim

LABOR
30+ hours - the bulk of it to get the rear hub off the truck and separated from the brake drum.

SUBLET
balancing/checking 5 tires (rebalanced the spare for completeness)

I'm now running what-was-the-spare in place of the bent wheel and have relegated the bent rim to spare duty until I get a replacement.

On the plus side, I've had a chance to go into both the front and rear hubs and now know how to do it (I think)

 

[dlh62c]

So far, the total carnage from one road service technician 'snugging' on the bolts with a big truck impact wrench-
PARTS
1 - rear hub assembly with inner/outer bearings and seals
7 - studs
1 - SRW rim

I'd add 6 lug nuts to the carnage.

Someone correct me, but aren't the lug nuts on one side left-hand thread and the other side right-hand thread?

 

[SkiFreak]

I'd add 6 lug nuts to the carnage.

Someone correct me, but aren't the lug nuts on one side left-hand thread and the other side right-hand thread?

Yes, that is correct.
Left hand threads on the left hand side and right hand threads on the right hand side.

 

[pugslyyy]

I'd add 6 lug nuts to the carnage.

Someone correct me, but aren't the lug nuts on one side left-hand thread and the other side right-hand thread?

yes, and yes.

In my mind when I said stud I meant the stud assembly which is the stud + 2 nuts (one for the wheel and one for the drum)

Of course now I'm going to carry spare studs with me and will probably never need them again.

 

[dlh62c]

LABOR
30+ hours - the bulk of it to get the rear hub off the truck and separated from the brake drum.

Please educate me!

How can it take 30 hours?

My ford F250 took just a few minutes to pull the axle, remove the axle nut then the brake drum.

Doesn't the FG have a full floating rear axle?

 

[mog]

... but aren't the lug nuts on one side left-hand thread and the other side right-hand thread?

Just an FYI for anyone using that link down the road for part numbers, those are for the 5 lug (12,500 lb) Fuso, the 6 lug (14,050lb) are a different part numbers.

 

[pugslyyy]

Please educate me!

How can it take 30 hours?

My ford F250 took just a few minutes to pull the axle, remove the axle nut then the brake drum.

Doesn't the FG have a full floating rear axle?

An F250 is very different from a Fuso. yes, full floating rear.

 

[Flys Lo]

I think Mog provided the best advice for rim straightening. It would be worth putting a dial indicator on both the inner and outer rim to see where it is out of round. You need to this both on the side of the lip, as well as on the top.
I have done this when I have bent motorcycle rims running low pressure on rocks, and have straightened them by lightly heating the local area and pressing it out with a hydraulic jack or some "strategic" hammer blows and have been able to get the wheels straight again. I am not sure I would try this personally with heavy duty steel rims, but it should be able to tell you where the damage is and if its salvagable.

I would also call your local truck tire repair place, they might be able to direct you to a place that can straighten steel truck rims.

 

[pugslyyy]

I think Mog provided the best advice for rim straightening. It would be worth putting a dial indicator on both the inner and outer rim to see where it is out of round. You need to this both on the side of the lip, as well as on the top.
I have done this when I have bent motorcycle rims running low pressure on rocks, and have straightened them by lightly heating the local area and pressing it out with a hydraulic jack or some "strategic" hammer blows and have been able to get the wheels straight again. I am not sure I would try this personally with heavy duty steel rims, but it should be able to tell you where the damage is and if its salvagable.

I would also call your local truck tire repair place, they might be able to direct you to a place that can straighten steel truck rims.

Thanks. I've talked with a bunch of folks and I think I'm just going to suck it up and replace the rim and have a known good spare. If I were in a far off land I might take a different route.

 

[mog]

I've had an interesting waterfall of failures from one event

Ahhhh, I remember that saga.
I would say from your description that only the center 'disk' is bent. If you think about it, a big 6.5" hole surrounded by six 1.3" holes does not make for the strongest area, regardless of material thickness.
If it were me (remember I'm a thrifty-cheap operator), I'd remove the tire and use a dial indicator (or even a flat-plate) in that area to find the problem area. I would bet it is a small area. Then use Flys Lo's idea of heat and a hammer or jack depending on how much you have to move it. I'm sure you can do as well of a job as the 'pros' since you are highly motivated and it would save you not only the cost of repair, but if you have to ship it, that sure can add up with the size and weight of the rim.
Plus practice for in-field repairs :Wow1:
-

D'oh, I was typing while your reply posted.
In that case, it still would not hurt to try and fix it yourself. You might just end up with a second 'spare' rim.