Starting a home build FG and looking for lots of advice.

[1aquaholic]

Hi all my name is Joaquin and I just took the leap and bought a 05 Fg140 in LA and drove it up to NW Washington where I live with the plan to build in my garage a RV box for it. I'm doing all the maintenance and fixing all the little things (cracked airbox, leak in the exhaust cross over tube, fuel hose leak, does anyone have info on the alternator pulley? I'm told it has a clutch in it and mine is failing, should I replace it with the same or is there a better solution?) It lived it's life in Salt (I know) Lake with a flatbed for a cement company. Has a little surface rust scale on the frame that I plan on taking care of.

Right now I've stripped the whole cab mostly to clean all the dirt.



But now thinking of sound dampening, any advice on product or installation? I would like to do the same to the floor and get rid of the stock floor covering, my preference would be to have something very durable like rhino liner (fill the voids, easy to clean, and no problems getting wet) but not sure how to do that with some type of sound dampening.

I have a feeling I will be on here a lot over the next few months searching and asking, I appreciate any advice as a progress and all you patience with my questions as I'm new to all this. I already have pretty detailed idea of what I want to do time and money permitting, have drawn it out and a friend made a basic cad file for me. Also want to build a veggie system for the engine and much more.

Thanks in advance
j

 

[SkiFreak]

A decent product for sound deadening is Dynamat.
Lots of the "doof doofers" use in their cars so the stereo does not shake the vehicle to pieces when they wind the volume up to 11.
I have it in my cab and it makes a noticeable difference.

Giving up drinking might also help you focus your camera bit better too.

 

[NeverEnough]

A decent product for sound deadening is Dynamat.

Ditto

 

[1aquaholic]

Yes I was planning on using dynamat on the walls and ceiling but wanted to get rid of the floor covering and use something more durable there.

j

 

[SkiFreak]

Why wouldn't you put Dynamat on the floor then cover it with mats? That's what I have done.
I'd suggest putting it inside the doors too.

 

[1aquaholic]

I did do the doors and I like your idea on the mat, I've been looking but can't find anything that would cover the whole floor and all the contours, what did you use?

Almost done with the sound deadening, thinking of maybe using Lizardskin for the floor and building up layers to make a smooth durable floor?

I'm having problems with the heating and vent ducting mechanism, the round plastic disk that the adjusting cable attaches to, as it rotates the arms with the pegs pop out of the grooves. Does anybody know what I'm talking about or have any advice? I pulled it all apart and it looked like the disk is warped so I bent it back to being pretty strait but same problem.

j

 

[dlh62c]

....with the plan to build in my garage a RV box for it.

There's a Stealth Camper Build over at TruckConversion.net. Its based on a 2002 Mitsubishi Fuso FE, with a 14 foot FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Plywood) box on the back.

 

[DzlToy]

I would not use DynaMat at all. There are much better and cheaper products out there unless you just have $$ to burn.

Spray the inside and outside of the cab with Lizard Skin. There is a heat insulation version and a sound insulation version. They can be sprayed in layers to provide both properties.

Another option is Spectrum's Sound Sludge. There are many many companies who make MLV (mass laminated vinyl) or Butyl (basically asphalt) mats that dampen vibration and reduce sound penetration.

Truck bed liners will do this to a minor extent, but it is not their purpose.

 

[1aquaholic]

Thanks I'll read the stealth build soon.

Yeah I ended up using hush mat and am happy with it. Also I'm spraying Al's liner right now for the floor, thick base layer of HNR then the liner.

 

[1aquaholic]

Ok haven't gotten much response on this thread so haven't been keeping up with it but I will keep trying. First as I'm sure a lot of you know the alternator pulley has a clutch and it was squealing away so I went to Mitsu for for a pulley and they said they got rid of the clutch so I would have to buy a new alt. Here is what I did instead and worked great.



I've done all the rest of the engine mantanace and then added airbags in the back.

 

[1aquaholic]

Unfortunately I have a little surface rust scale on my frame and the seller thought it would be cool to rattle can the whole thing right before I got there. So I've stripped the frame and fuel tank battery box and all.





Now I'm bead blasting. Not fun!





Then Por15 and chassis coat. Has anyone had experience with this product?

 

[canter tourer]

Was the airbag set-up a kit? or your own creation, it looks like a great use of the empty space when super singles are fitted.

Did you consider driving it elsewhere and getting someone to do the blasting for you? would have been quicker and easier, but then again, nothing like doing it yourself. Great work and something mine needs doing too, but keep putting it off.

 

[1aquaholic]

Next;

The camper is going to be 14' long so I will need to extend the frame approximately 40 something inches off the back, has anyone done this? I have purchased a veggie system for a HPCR from Frybrid and will be welding up my aluminum or stainless steel (which should I use?) tanks soon. I would like to hang them behind the axle on the current and extended frame. I'm thinking about 70gl tapering of course to the back for clearance, this is a lot of weight behind the axle, any thoughts?

I bought this air compressor and am very impressed with the quality and small size yet 100% duty and more than 6cfm but draws 50amps.



http://store.arbusa.com/ARB-On-Boar...olt-Twin-Air-Compressor-CKMTA12-P21341C9.aspx

 

[1aquaholic]

I worked with a suspension shop, cost more that I wanted and took a lot of time at the shop but that was just their disorganization. Removed helper springs and all but two of the leafs, added two small airbags each side and self leveling. Right now the plan is to keep the duels no super singles.

I thought I could whip it out and save some money but wish I had someone else do it. One problem is I wanted to get the frame under the fuel tank and battery box which would make the move tough.

 

[southpier]

....Por15 and chassis coat. Has anyone had experience with this product?

love it. wear gloves. use their proprietary 3 step process and you'll have a hard as porcelain finish.