Strapping down a kayak to a roof-rack

[rnArmy]

And that's why I'm one of those Coleman/Rubber-maid/Harbor Freight kinda overlanding guys (to a point anyways). Just bought a pair of X-bull ramps (@ $59/pair) because I can't afford (or justify) the MAXTRAX ones for $299/pair (even if they might be a little bit better quality). Gotta spend what little money the banker lets me spend on overlanding stuff wisely. Still don't have a 12-volt fridge - still buying ice. Some things I can sneak past the banker; but I don't think I can sneak a fridge - she's pretty smart and observant.

But trying to go cheap on straps and losing a kayak (and possibly hurting someone else in the process) isn't smart. And straps aren't that expensive. Straps from NRS vs. Yakima vs. Harbor Freight....

To those out there with the NRS cam lock straps with loops - is the loop counted as part of the advertised length? So would a 6' or 9' NRS strap with loops be 6' (or 9') PLUS the loops? It really isn't the cost difference; I just don't want to be trimming a lot off and searing the ends if I don't have to.

 

[rnArmy]

Was at the Sportsman's Warehouse this afternoon looking for something, and of course I'm wandering the camping isle. Which is right next to the boating area. Saw on the wall they sold the NRS straps (so I don't have to order on-line). So I got a pair of the 6' looped ends (for the kayak), and a pair of the 6' regular straps (for strapping the X-Bull ramps to the roof rack). I thought about the 9' looped straps for attaching to the front and back of the kayak and attaching to the roof on either side of the roof rack mounts, but I don't want the metal buckle to go crashing through the windshield if it were to come loose from the front of the kayak. So I'll go another route with that.

This afternoon I had the kayak on the Jeep's roof taking measurements (and figuring out how to mount the paddle - hence the trip to the Sportsman's Warehouse for a pair of small quick fists), and I used one of my HF cam-lock straps for measuring purposes. I strapped the kayak down using the HF strap, and marked on the HF strap where it was cinched securely. Looks like I should have about a foot of strap left after the kayak is secured using the NRS straps.

I thought the NRS straps might be a little more "bulkier" for some reason before actually seeing them. I'm sure they'll be plenty strong.

 

[rnArmy]

Ok, to wrap this thing up (or bring closure to all those wondering how this ends...):

I used three NRS 6' "loop" straps (they were plenty long - and I bought a third one the other day), and two 10' lengths of 1/4" rope at the front and rear. I took it for a test drive, and it seems to hold it securely. I think I could feel the added wind resistance; and the Jeep is only a four-cylinder. The NRS straps are not attached to the roof rack itself, but to 5/16" SS eye-bolts that mount through the rack rail and through the roof itself (five eye-bolts on each side replacing bolts I had in there originally so no extra drilling). Three NRS straps may be overkill, but I had the option of the third (middle) eye bolt, so I figured "why-not"; can't hurt - might help.

I thought I'd be able to see the kayak when driving sitting in the driver's seat - nope; can't see it. Maybe if it were a few feet longer I'd see the front of the kayak (maybe a reason to buy a double kayak for the wife and me). I guess that's a good thing it doesn't interfere with my vision. It is just an inexpensive Pelican 10' kayak; we bought three of them at one time in different colors (for me, my wife, and daughter). I like them, and I am by no means a kayak expert. I just enjoy paddling around in it.

The paddle breaks into two halves, and are mounted using small quick-fists mounted to the inside of the Surco Roof Rack (you can see the five small bolts holding each quick fist in the first picture). And those are just large U-bolts mounted on the roof rack front-and-rear with 5/16" fuel line slid over the U-bolts. They give me peace of mind knowing I've got bump stops on each side so if the kayak were to slide/shift/twist off-center midline, it wouldn't slide off (especially when I'm tossing the kayak up on the roof it won't slide off the other side of the Jeep).

Thank-you to all those who responded to my original question. You helped guide me in the right direction with your input.

Now I just need to plan a trip to use my Kayak. I still want to run the Dempster Highway all the way to Tuk (now that they've finished the road) and paddle out into the Arctic Ocean.

 

[Explorerinil]

I've got upwards of 50000 miles using yakima cam straps and never had one slip. NRS ones are great also. 6mil accessory cord works too. Hell, walmart clothesline works.

You are over thinking it.

That’s what I use, no problems here

 

[Explorerinil]

I've got upwards of 50000 miles using yakima cam straps and never had one slip. NRS ones are great also. 6mil accessory cord works too. Hell, walmart clothesline works.

You are over thinking it.

That’s what I use, no problems here

 

[s.e.charles]

I think the idea of bow & stern lines is to increase the footprint of holding which in turn adds to the resistance of the potential hull rotation.

in other words, can you drag those lines to your bumpers instead of the eyes on the roof racking? there would be more stability.

 

[rnArmy]

If the kayak were longer, I could possibly attach the lines to the bumpers (now that you mention it I can see where it would increase the footprint). I had thought of it before. But in the rear at least, I would have to disconnect the lines every time I wanted to access the rear of the Jeep d/t the swing-away spare tire carrier and jerry can holder and the rear lift window. And in the front, I would have to attach it more to where the hood latches are as the hood and fenders prevent a straight line to the front bumper from the front of the kayak.

But with having lines both front and rear as it sits now triangulated (returning back to the roof rack mount eye-bolts), at least when I was pushing on the front and back of the kayak to the side, they seem to keep it pretty straight and they support each other. At least with the lines on there now, it will help keep the kayak on the roof (both from sliding forward if I stopped suddenly, and from sliding off from the rear if wind resistance or something was pushing it backwards).

Again; maybe am I overthinking this? I just want to take this thousands of miles to include off road/off pavement without having to worry about anything.

 

[Triplesnake]

Yes, it would be better if the bow and stern lines went to the bumpers especially in the front, but being a 10' boat I doubt there will be that much rotational load on it anyway. With 3 straps and the lines fore and aft, that thing isn't going anywhere!

 

[s.e.charles]

… maybe am I overthinking this? ....

no prob. it's what we do.

 

[Paddler Ed]

Can you get it so that the front strap is around a point that is narrowing, and likewise the rear? If you can do that, then you'll stop most of the movement forwards and backwards. Alternatively, get the cockpit rim to sit behind the rails, so that works as a lip to stop it moving (but be careful tightening it down)

I'm not that keen on the triangles that you have running to the roof, as that allows for a lot of lateral movement due to the "slack" - try pushing the boat to the side and you may find that it'll move because the triangles. I've always tended to run my straps as close to the hull as possible, almost in an inverted U shape, rather than the flattened V that you have.

Not the best picture, but I'm looking through my collection of pictures:

You can see we have the straps quite close to the kayaks, and around the narrow sections. Like that they were solid at 70mph and I've done some long journeys loaded like that.

 

[Paddler Ed]

Heres's some more pieces from some kayak manufacturers and retailer websites that talk about tying down - if you look all the straps are close to the hull:
http://palmequipmenteurope.com/blog/2015/07/31/how-to-transport-your-kayaks/
https://www.canoe-shops.co.uk/faqs/how-to-transport-canoes-kayaks.htm
https://www.dagger.com/us/experience/kayaking-101/content/loading-kayaks-your-vehicle

 

[rnArmy]

Technically I could move the straps to the outside eye bolts, but I don't want the roof rack edges to act as a fulcrum and cause the kayak to bend (at least using the rear eye bolts). I will keep an eye on it when taking it on its first long road trip.

 

[ottsville]

Bow lines come from a time where we were all using rope to tie 17' aluminum grummans onto cars. Matter of fact I remember having connection points on all four corners of a van's bumpers just bow and stern lines in a V on each end with nothing over the middle. Good cam straps are so much more secure. I've strapped everything from whitewater play boats, 4m glass slalom boats, 16' sea kayaks, to said grumman onto lots of vehicles and never use bow and stern lines. Usually two straps over a boat, but sometimes two boats with two straps as Paddler Ed's pics show.

Run two straps right to your roof basket. You'll be fine. If you really feel the need to a run a bow line, take a piece of one inch tubular webbing about 16" long and fold it in half making a loop. Epoxy the last 1`.5" of it together and soak that area of webbing with the epoxy. Open your hood and find a bolt near the edge of the the hood. Drill a hole in the glued portion of the webbing, put a washer over it and run said bolt through. You now have a loop that you can pull out from the hood seam when you need it or tuck it in when you don't and you don't have rope rubbing over the front of your hood.

I don't like the eye bolts as connection. You are levering on them and sooner or later they will work loose and leak. Just use the basket.

 

[Paddler Ed]

I don't like the eye bolts as connection. You are levering on them and sooner or later they will work loose and leak. Just use the basket.

The use of the eye bolts low down has had me thinking as well; whilst I use them on my ute tray for tying things down, I'm not sure I would use them to tie the kayak down to.

Why?

Well, the load of a kayak can cause the roof rack to deflect due to the flex in the rack; with the kayak tied to the rack then the movement is the same - tied to the eye bolt, the strap is anchored to a different spot and therefore the strap will "loosen" off a fraction.

Maybe I'm over thinking it, but as can be seen I was running loads close to capacity on the roof of those Volvo's (they had 100kg roof loads... or 3 PE Open Canoes...) and they were always tied to the cross bars.

 

[s.e.charles]

I used to cartop a 16' alden appledore pod rowing shell w/ teak rails & 9' graphite oars on my saab. thule racks & about 100' of nylon line. front bumper to bow, rear bumper to stern, 'round & 'round everywhere in between. sliding seat & custom fabricated beach dolly went into the hatch first with the back seat folded forward. loved that car for 13 years. boat was a pain in the backside though. cartopping a 110# hull gets old quick.