stuck on the road, please help

[flightcancled]

That's too bad! Good luck!

 

[gtbensley]

Yeah I was a bit sad about it! It has never left me high and dry before. On the flip side though, it was due to human error that caused it so that's better.

I can see some fusible link up on top of the engine once I cracked the dog box. Hopefully that's it. If not I will just start tracing the wires at the batteries back and see where I lose power.

 

[flightcancled]

I've only torn apart the system in two ambos, but I don't know why there would be something there. Usually the fuse and breaker are built into the back of these inverters for the exact reason that they are prone to over draw and it makes it easier to identify the problem. That and it is a lot easier than making more connections for the welding cable. that feeds the unit.

 

[calicamper]

Not the same rig but had a similar experience last April while bringing home Grandpas new ride. 1000 mile drive home with his new to him 2005 SLK 350 with 13,000 miles. Pulled off the road to take a break had my cellphone and my go pro plugged in charging and did not unplug them go pro was on a inverter. Got back in turned the key and zip zero nothing! flat bed ride back to the local town called it a night dropped the car in the hotel parking lot. Next morning I found that they had 7 fuses on the ignition system alone between three different fuse boxes. The very last fuse I pulled and checked 15 amp fuse was cooked! New fuse and we were on our way.

I hope its just a simple fuse some place and you just haven't found it.

 

[gtbensley]

Thanks for the input guys.

Here is what I know so far.

I was using my inverter and drew too much current and something popped. Nothing on the inverter seems to be the issue as it didn't have any breakers popped.

I have power at my starter.

I have power at my starter relay from the battery but I need to heck the fusible links that are supposedly attached to it.

I have zero power to the power distribution box under the hood. Using a test light is a no go.....stays black suggesting the power to the box isn't happening.

The power switch under the drivers seat is a bit odd to me. With the switch off I get the test light to light when touching the terminals on the switch. Once I turn the switch on I get zilch from it. This seems very strange to me. Maybe I have the light hooked up wrong but I could swear the wire I had grounded too was bolted into the seat rail. Any ideas?

I'm thinking a fusible link is toast that connects to the starter relay and feeds the rest of the circuits. My power distribution box is dead and I am having a hell of a time seeing where it's getting its power from.

 

[ert01]

Re: the power switch under the seat

That is normal and good. The test light reads the DIFFERENCE of voltage between two points.

The light should come on when the switch is off (indicating +12v on one side and ground on the other... A difference of 12V). The light should go out when the switch is on (indicating +12v on both sides of the switch... A difference of 0V).

 

[gtbensley]

Got it thanks! My fusable links look good. Checked them this morning.

I found a diagram that has an ambulance package....shows a 300amp megafuse on the front right of the engine. Perhaps its on the alternator? Gotta go track that down as it feeds everything else.

 

[gtbensley]

FIXED! I replaced a fusable link.....which I doubt was bad. Re installed my batteries and it's good to go! Not sure what actually fixed it. I have to wonder if pulling the batteries reset something.

 

[flightcancled]

That's bizarre.

 

[gtbensley]

Its very strange. I wiggle tested my wires and nothing changed but that fusable link didn't seem burned. Didn't smell or anything. I have no idea what's going on and need to figure it out.

 

[flightcancled]

I'm guessing something reset while you had the system disconnected. Were the house systems also dead, or just the stock Ford systems?

How cold was it up there? Could a relay or solenoid have been frozen?

 

[gtbensley]

Whole vehicle, it was like I removed the batteries. It was cold and windy that night but warm during the day, 20 probably.

I would think if it froze it wouldn't pop in the first place.

 

[flightcancled]

If you put the "bad" fusable link back in does the problem repeat itself? Sounds silly, but that is something I would consider just to be sure. Otherwise you know something is intermittently failing elsewhere.

Edit: In reading up on the links they can just fail on their own like a normal fuse, although they are used in certain applications because it takes a lot longer. None of our rigs are so new that it isn't possible I suppose. I'll have to add some to my emergency kit I guess.

 

[Haf-E]

I've seen fusible links which have a small crack in them that doesn't look blow but wouldn't carry high currents. They tested out OK with a tester but once bolted in would be open - perhaps due to the mechanical stress on them once bolted down.

I'd be sure to carry a spare around if I was you - cheap insurance in case a problem occurs again.

 

[gtbensley]

That's the plan for tonight is to track down what failed, so replacing that bad link back in. I did buy an extra as well as some big fuses for the power distribution box as I didn't have any of those either.

At least it's running now so I could move it. The tow guy put it in the middle of the driveway so I couldn't get into my garage which is a drag in the winter.