Superduty V10 vs 6.0

[NothingClever]

V10 happiness is all about gearing. 4.30, 4.56, even 4.88 is where you can really take advantage of the v10's power.

You mentioned IFS with the 6.0 . You must be referring to the coil springs upfront. None of the super duty 4x4's have IFS. All use solid axles, 99-04 leaf springs, 05-12 coil springs. Biggest advantage to the coil springs seems to be better turning radius and ease of lifting.

Roger on re-gearing....I've chosen that route before over superchargers, chips, etc.

Thanks for the correction on the front end still being a SFA. It's 2:20 am where I'm at and I'm working on a brief for the CJCS so I was too lazy to do my homework before posting .

 

[adam88]

I own a 2006 F250 6.0L (late model build too) and it is a great engine. Ive had it for 2.5 years now and put 30k miles on it and no issues whatsoever. I just change the oil, fuel filter and air filter nothing else. I only considered a 6.0L because of two things 1) Late model build (2006 or 2007), and 2) My 2006 truck was about $5,000 cheaper than a 2002-2003 7.3L. Why would I pay $5,000 more for a 2003 7.3L when I could buy a 6.0L, with more power, and a better ford vehicle design? People forget that the 7.3L bodies were not the best nor was the suspension. They had leaf springs up front. The coils on the 2005+ fords make a big difference for sure. So I figure I have at least $5,000 in upgrades if I need them versus the 7.3L cost.

Bottom line, IMO, the 6.0L is underpriced (due to horror stories), while the 7.3L is overpriced (due to legendary reliability). Take advantage of all the 6.0L fear and buy one and the money saved can be a contingency fund if needed.

 

[NothingClever]

That's the gamble I'm leaning towards (today) with risk mitigation in the form of:
1) a clean OASIS report
2) calling the dealer(s) where serviced to get a feel for the vehicle's "personal" history
3) a thorough review by a skilled diesel mechanic
4) EGR delete and head bolt kit

I will add that I formally and publicly acknowledge that an experienced motorhead here has cautioned me about the 6.0L engines. I hope I can prove him wrong in the kindest form of the phrase.

 

[Mountainhound]

I bought an 04 new and owned till last year when burnt and I have said it many times I have no problem with the 6.0l. Did they have problems sure and do you need to be more leary yes. But do you need to stay away absolutly not.

I own a 2006 F250 6.0L (late model build too) and it is a great engine. Ive had it for 2.5 years now and put 30k miles on it and no issues whatsoever. I just change the oil, fuel filter and air filter nothing else. I only considered a 6.0L because of two things 1) Late model build (2006 or 2007), and 2) My 2006 truck was about $5,000 cheaper than a 2002-2003 7.3L. Why would I pay $5,000 more for a 2003 7.3L when I could buy a 6.0L, with more power, and a better ford vehicle design? People forget that the 7.3L bodies were not the best nor was the suspension. They had leaf springs up front. The coils on the 2005+ fords make a big difference for sure. So I figure I have at least $5,000 in upgrades if I need them versus the 7.3L cost.

Bottom line, IMO, the 6.0L is underpriced (due to horror stories), while the 7.3L is overpriced (due to legendary reliability). Take advantage of all the 6.0L fear and buy one and the money saved can be a contingency fund if needed.

That's the gamble I'm leaning towards (today) with risk mitigation in the form of:
1) a clean OASIS report
2) calling the dealer(s) where serviced to get a feel for the vehicle's "personal" history
3) a thorough review by a skilled diesel mechanic
4) EGR delete and head bolt kit

I will add that I formally and publicly acknowledge that an experienced motorhead here has cautioned me about the 6.0L engines. I hope I can prove him wrong in the kindest form of the phrase.

 

[GFA]

The cheaper initial purchase price and the lack of mods needed will pay for a whole lotta gasoline in the v-10... Like 5 years worth. Plus, you'll likely end up with a truck that has lower mileage than a comparable diesel which ultimately means a truck in better overall condition. Factor in that gas is about 50cents a gallon cheaper in my area and that normal maintenance such as oil changes are half the price of what they are for the diesel and a few MPG's lost with the V10 doesn't seem too bad

I bought my 04 250CC with the 6.ohh new and put 99k on it before trading it. It was a bittersweet 99 I must say. I absolutely loved it for the first 30k or so but then the EGR issues set in. It NEVER had issues around home, only when I was out of town on a Sunday afternoon when every ford dealer was closed... In the last 10k I lost the turbo which was replaced and later determined to have also blown the head gaskets. It was recommended to me to do the whole egr delete, oil coolers, head studs, this that and the other while we were in there.. And it was only going to cost 5k or so. I also needed tires at that point so I decided that instead of writing a check for 6k to fix it and put on new shoes, I would instead write the check for 8k to my local jeep dealer and drive away in a new 4D JK. That's when I really learned what the true definition of underpowered is...

Averaged out, that truck cost me about 2100 per year in maintenance and repairs if I were to have fixed it instead of off loading it. IMO, that's way too much to maintain a truck that cost 48k new. I'm currently looking for an 05 excursion to replace our expedition and it's V-10 all the way for me. The guy with the diesel might beat me up up the mountains but only if his diesel doesn't crap out on the way up...

 

[jronwood]

I owned a 00' F-550 7.3 flatbed 2wd stick with a detroit locker and a changed the gears to 3:91's, GREAT truck. BOMBPROOF. Then swapped it out for a 00' F-550 V-10 4x4, crane/log/plow truck. When I bought the v-10 I upgraded my F-150 for an 02' F-350 CC/CC 7.3. Again nice unit. The V-10 NEEDS 4:88's. I saved my locker and 3:91's and was going to rear gear the V-10. It has a True-Trac, and 4:88's the engine LIKES the rpm's, so I left well enough alone. I REALLY like the V-10. It won't outpull my 7.3 but it is quiet, dependable (no plug spits yet) and does LOVE fuel, but as stated, do the math. You can buy ALOT of gas for the price difference in the two rigs purchase prices. My V-10 ran on propane most of it's life in a fleet, and I knew the General Manager, it was taken care of. I REALLY like the V-10...........Love the 7.3.

As a Ford guy, you all can say what you want, you couldnt GIVE me a 6.0. It is not if you will have an issue, but when. I have had the "6.0 talk" likely more than 30-40 times with guys locally. EVERYONE eventually had a MAJOR issue......sad but true. Ford really blackened their eye on that one. It really is about the math and the exposure or risk to an unforseen cost. The fuel for the V-10 is a variable (and known) cost. The 6.0 is a crap shoot. Care to gamble??

 

[The Seldom Seen Kid]

6.0 => Evil No Bad, Hot, Don't Touch, Run Away

Background
I Love Super Duties. I have owned one 7.3, three 6.0, and have a 6.7 on order. They are awesome for towing, long trips, daily drivers, and work well off-road for a big heavy truck.
I am good friends with two Diesel Master Mechanics.

As you read this, remember I just put my order in for a new 2013 6.7.
I would never recommend a 6.0 to anyone. I would hesitate to give one away to anyone who did not have $10K to throw at the motor between parts and labor.

What are the issues?
The motor is its stock configuration will most likely prematurely fail, even when normal recommended maintenance is followed.

It is more than just the EGR. The high pressure oil system can leave you sitting at the side of the road.... and don't forget the turbo failures... ICP sensor failure … then there are the oil leaks …
The failure of the system can be quiet dramatic with the coolant boiling off over time, taking silicates out of suspension, plugging up coolers, generating more heat, coolers failing, dumping coolant into the intake, stretching head-bolts, leaking head gaskets, killing injectors.
If you really want to learn about this, talk to a diesel mechanic for a school district that has the 6.0's in the van style configuration. They can tell you how much “fun” they are having pulling motors trying to get them fixed. Hint: Van compartment, poor cooling, high temps.

So you want to “fix it”
The EGR is a big problem area, as this is where the coolant starts boiling off. Planning to do an EGR delete? An EGR delete is illegal for on-road use. In the PRK (Peoples Republic of California) Diesels are smog checked including a visual inspection. For those of you, who will accept the liability of violating smog laws; consider the creative use of a welder on your original equipment.

I don't know if you have had the opportunity to see the high pressure oil seal failure…. But the good news is that we may have found out where the engineers from Morton-Thiokol went after the Challenger disaster. The tubes with the O-Rings are way in the back of the motor, make sure you pull them and replace with the upgraded parts. This can be done when replacing the oil cooler and egr cooler. When you do that the turbo is out, you can make sure that that is not all carbon crusted because the previous owner never would punch it.
Oh yeah then there is the great joy to be had in getting rid of the gold coolant to be replaced with a non-silicate based coolant. The wash rinse repeat is very time consuming.

Options
Keep changing the coolant and have the Ford dealer use the new ultra-cool tool to remove silicates from the coolant, and throw on a coolant filter.
You may be able to buy an extended warranty from Ford depending on the age of the truck so when it fails you don't have a big bill. You are still stuck on the side of the road, but you don't have a big bill.
Buy a 7.3 and have the tranny upgraded.
Buy a 6.0 pull the engine and swap in a Dodge motor.

If you absolutely need to buy a 6.0
See title at the top.

 

[Mountainhound]

Wish I still had my 04 f350 6.0l 1 I loved the truck used it hard and I had no real problems #2 keep getting letters from dealership trying to buy the thing back because people actually want them. Why you may ask because they aint the crap everyone here keeps going on and on and on about. I put a 132,000 hard miles on that truck and it did everything I ever asked of it and never complained I would still have and be happy if it hadn't burnt 2/24/11. Would I buy one today dang straight I would.

 

[Saiyan66]

#1 reason not to own a 6.0 Powerstroke: the first step in the factory service manual for any engine work is to . . . . . . . . .REMOVE THE CAB! Really? Who was the genius who thought that was a good idea?

 

[Expedition_Bound]

My 2005 6.0 is in the shop right now. They haven't called me yet, but I'm 99% sure it's a blown EGR cooler which means I also need to replace the oil cooler. Looking around online I can expect to pay around $2500 for this. Just what I want to pay given that I was trying to sell the truck, and was let go from my job recently.

I bought it in Dec. 2007 with 103k miles on it, and planned to "bulletproof" it shortly after. That never happened. I had tried to save up enough money, but it kept breaking down, and all my bullet proofing money had to go to those repair bills. In the time I've had it I've had to replace nearly the entire front suspension, front U-joints twice, FICM, radiator, some parking brake linkage thing (can't remember what it's called), and the 4x4 hubs.

Granted this is just my own personal experience, but like the guy above said, I would NOT recommended a 6.0 to anyone who did not have at least $10k throwing around money.

 

[DoMiNiC1]

My 2005 6.0 is in the shop right now. They haven't called me yet, but I'm 99% sure it's a blown EGR cooler which means I also need to replace the oil cooler. Looking around online I can expect to pay around $2500 for this. Just what I want to pay given that I was trying to sell the truck, and was let go from my job recently.

I bought it in Dec. 2007 with 103k miles on it, and planned to "bulletproof" it shortly after. That never happened. I had tried to save up enough money, but it kept breaking down, and all my bullet proofing money had to go to those repair bills. In the time I've had it I've had to replace nearly the entire front suspension, front U-joints twice, FICM, radiator, some parking brake linkage thing (can't remember what it's called), and the 4x4 hubs.

Granted this is just my own personal experience, but like the guy above said, I would NOT recommended a 6.0 to anyone who did not have at least $10k throwing around money.

That sucks man... Good luck on the Job hunt. Maybe you can trade it, even it you took a loose on the truck at least you could find something that will start and run, that should be the last thing you have to worry about.

or

Set that bad boy of fire and roll it into the manufacturing plant in Louisville Kentucky. :victory:

 

[Expedition_Bound]

The shop called me just a few minutes ago. It was just the EGR valve, not the EGR cooler. Total will be about $400. I can't express how happy I am. I'm definitely dumping this truck ASAP. As much as I don't want to take a loss, it's worth it to get something reliable.

 

[DoMiNiC1]

Great news! You could try and trade it for a older 7.3...

 

[BCHauler]

One side benefit of the thirsty v10 is that used they often have low mileage.

 

[The Seldom Seen Kid]

#1 reason not to own a 6.0 Powerstroke: the first step in the factory service manual for any engine work is to . . . . . . . . .REMOVE THE CAB! Really? Who was the genius who thought that was a good idea?

6.0 does NOT require cab removal. I watched one of the engine pulls on my truck. It was actually pretty slick, all came straight out the front with the hood left on.
6.4 requires cab removal. Information can be found here. 6.7 hours round trip time, not bad if you consider that in 3.3 hours "You need to drain the coolant, drain the power steering/brake booster, discharge the Air Conditioning, remove those troublesome body bolts, attach and secure the cab to a hoist, disconnect wiring harnesses, A/C lines, hoses, brake cable, transmission and transfer case linkages, remove the master cylinder, remove batteries and battery trays... ".
6.7 does not seem to require cab removal.

It would be nice if the diesel pick-up manufactures built the truck so the front end could tilt forward like the big rigs. It would sure make maintenance a lot easier.