Suspension Edumication...

[swrider]

Hey everyone, thanks for stopping by.

So researching suspension options can really give a dude one hell of a headache.
Confusion reigns supreme in my head at the moment.

So far, this is what i've "learned"; please feel free to add, subtract or correct...

- Simplest and easiest: add a 2" spacer to the bottom of your front struts to level the truck.
I am using the Rough Country one

- Second option, buy longer shocks. Bilsteins or Fox 2.0's seem to be the preferred options around this site.

So far, not too complicated, but you're maxing out at about 2"...

Now it gets complicated.
Suspension kits use a combination of front spacers, blocks on the rear, longer shocks, UCA's, differential drops and other assorted goodies.
Depending on who you buy from is the combination u get.

Examples...
An affordable option from Fabtech uses front spacers, UCA's and back blocks. But u keep your original shock setup

A second option, Pro Comp, again uses front strut spacers, rear lift blocks/addaleafs, but then includes upgraded steering knucles and a differential drop. You still use your own shocks.

A third and to my eyes more expensive option is from Icon which comprises front coilovers and rear shocks. It's a whopping $1,800. Add UCA with optional reservoir rear shocks and the price jumps to $2,800...

Sooo, from all this, what do you choose???

People keep saying not to use your level kit on top of your longer shocks, but isn't that the same as using your stock ride shocks with the spacer blocks???

The main reason I'm looking into all this is because i need new shocks. My Silverado is at 144k miles and in need of a suspension refresh. So i need new shocks and i want bigger tires in the future.

So what do u choose???

I have been told that anything over 2.5" should require upgraded UCA's, i get that, but at what point do u need a differential drop???

Icon seems like a good idea to me because i need new shocks, but i would also have to add UCA's sooner rather than later...

Any and all thoughts are greatly welcomed



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[eyemgh]

It depends on what you want it to do differently, how much weight you’re planning to carry and how often.

When my Silverado with a Helwig helper and stockers bit the dust, I just put new Bilstein 4800s on and called it a day. It’s not worth throwing anything more on a truck with 150k miles.

My new F350 build though has Carli tuned Kings, a Carli designed Deaver leaf pack, and a Fox 2.0 steering stabilizer.

What‘s your situation and what needs to be better? That’ll guide other posters to help you.

 

[swrider]

This whole mess started because i wanted to fit 33's. Well ran out of time when one of my tires blew, so i ended up getting a 2" level kit and fitting a size smaller than 33's, dont remember the actual size.
But now my front shocks are done for and i need to replace them soon.
So i thought if i need new shocks why not improve on what is on there, get rid of the leveling kit, use better shocks/struts to lift the truck and finally be in a position to fit 33's.
But so far the only setup that i have found that can do this are the Icons and at 3" of lift i would need better UCA's. Which is a choice that i like.
The other option i am considering is going with a BDS 4" lift, which looks good but it requires u to use the existing shocks which in my case need to be replaced.
Other than Icons, any other strut out there that can give you 3" of lift???


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[eyemgh]

Sorry, I’m gonna be of no help on the Chevy. I left mine stock. It fit 32s just fine. As you can see though, it’s potentially a deep and speedy rabbit hole! Good luck!

 

[swrider]

Sorry, I’m gonna be of no help on the Chevy. I left mine stock. It fit 32s just fine. As you can see though, it’s potentially a deep and speedy rabbit hole! Good luck!

Yup, a very deep and pricey hole lol

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[4000lbsOfGoat]

I run a Taco, not a Chevy, but I can't recommend Icon highly enough - with external reservoirs, adjustable CD valves and their UCAs. It'll feel like a completely different rig! By from an authorized dealer and have them installed by said dealer and you'll be pretty well taken care of.

I'd also recommend upgrading your bumpstops to something like Timbrens while you're at it.

Cheers!

 

[swrider]

I like the setup f om Icon, seems like there are less items to mess up, just coilovers and rear shocks, add some decent UCA's later on and it's good to go.
This is what i am looking at:

ICON 2007-2016 GM 1500 1-3

ICON 2007-2016 GM 1500 1-3

www.iconvehicledynamics.com

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[swrider]

A different idea i had was to do the same, oy using Fox 2.0's.
The problem i run into there is that it maxes out at 2".
Could i then use either a top mount strut spacer to add more lift if necessary???


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[jbaucom]

What year is your Silverado? Are you still on stock wheels? Wanting to fit 33's doesn't really tell anyone much. There's a big difference in fitting a 255/80R17, a 285/70R17, or a 33x12.5R17. Every Silverado 4x4 for the last 30+ years has been available with 32" tires. On stock wheels, a stock Silverado 4x4 should be able to fit the equivalent of a 285/70R17, though it may rub a little when compressed at full lock. Aftermarket wheels introduce too many variables to be able to say anything conclusively without more information.

To second what eyemgh said above, I wouldn't spend too much on a new suspension system for a truck with 144K miles. I'd suggest sticking with quality replacement shocks. I don't know if you have the technical know-how to disassemble and reassemble your front coilovers, but either way, it's in your best interest to save money, if possible, by performing the labor yourself. Your front springs are going to be tired and sagging some after nearly 150K miles, so I'd recommend a new front coilover assembly with springs, like the Fox 2.0 or Rancho RS9000XL if you need to save some money. You'll be able to replace the front coilover assemblies yourself with basic hand tools. Front and rear Fox 2.0s should be a bit over $1,000, and a full set of Rancho RS9000s should be around $650. Both give you about 2" of front lift, though the Rancho isn't adjustable while the Fox 2.0 is. Bilstein 6112s would be a good front shock option too, if you can order them assembled, otherwise you'll need a shop's spring compressor for assembly.

I wouldn't recommend going over 2" for the sake of cost, complexity, and longevity. At 2" you are OK with stock UCAs and no front differential drop. If you need new UCAs, you can get a set of OE replacements for $200-$300 (or less if you want to be really cheap). You make no permanent changes to the truck, and you're able to continue sourcing readily available replacement parts from any parts store or junkyard. It sounds like all of your front-end parts have worn and functioned OK with a 2" level. Keep things simple and just drop in replacement coilover assemblies and maybe a rear add-a-leaf if you need it. You'll have better shocks, it'll fit 33" tires (within reason, depending on width and wheel specs), it won't look odd on 33's the way a bigger lift would (which would probably tempt you to want bigger tires, and then you'd probably want to regear....), and it's a DIY project that shouldn't take more than an afternoon if you have the tools.

A different idea i had was to do the same, oy using Fox 2.0's.
The problem i run into there is that it maxes out at 2".
Could i then use either a top mount strut spacer to add more lift if necessary???


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You could add a top mount spacer, but I wouldn't recommend it, because then you're going to need to consider your CV angles, ball joint angles, tie rod angles, etc. and how and whether they need to be corrected. You're basically talking about a lift kit here, just without all the other components that come with it to correct your front end geometry.

 

[Betarocker]

I had a full Icon suspension on my previous truck and it was great. Current truck has a bunch of Icon on it too, but went with Fox for the shocks because of price, and the rebuilds are easy and cheap once you have the tools. Parts are also more readily available.

I've tried going the cheaper route, and it got even more expensive because I ended up getting the good kit due to the poor ride.

 

[swrider]

So the truck is a 2014 Silverado Z71, it has a 2" level kit from RC and currently running 285/65R18's and it looks like it can still clear 33's with no issue.
It's not that i want or need to fit 33's, i just want a truck that is taller than what i have.
This whole discussion has been about me trying to put into words what i understand are the options for a suspension lift.
I do NEED new shocks, and i did NEED new tires.
Tires i have, although not as big as i wanted, oh well.
Shocks i still need, so maybe take the time to research good options that will give me a bigger lift and allow me to get rid or the 2" level kit.

Options that i am considering are:
Fox 2.0,
Bilsteins 5100's or a combo of 6112's front and 5100's rear (i think)
A set from Icon

Now if i go with this and sometime in the future decide, for whatever reason, that it's not enough height, i could always add spacers.
Or at least that is my understanding...

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[Grassland]

So the truck is a 2014 Silverado Z71, it has a 2" level kit from RC and currently running 285/65R18's and it looks like it can still clear 33's with no issue.
It's not that i want or need to fit 33's, i just want a truck that is taller than what i have.
This whole discussion has been about me trying to put into words what i understand are the options for a suspension lift.
I do NEED new shocks, and i did NEED new tires.
Tires i have, although not as big as i wanted, oh well.
Shocks i still need, so maybe take the time to research good options that will give me a bigger lift and allow me to get rid or the 2" level kit.

Options that i am considering are:
Fox 2.0,
Bilsteins 5100's or a combo of 6112's front and 5100's rear (i think)
A set from Icon

Now if i go with this and sometime in the future decide, for whatever reason, that it's not enough height, i could always add spacers.
Or at least that is my understanding...

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IIRC on that gen Chevy to go over 2, 2.5" you would need a dif drop and or UCA.
The angles get too extreme for the CV joints when articulating if you default lift is higher than that.
You "could" put a spacer on top of a bilstein to get more than two inches, but I sure wouldn't do it without UCA and a dif drop, especially if that original front end parts with that many miles.
@D45 he might be able to chime in he has that generation GM.

As for tire size you are running a 32.5" tire. Don't think you are going to have clearance issues with a 33" tire as it's .5" diameter larger, if even that in real life since actual diameter varies so much between brands and even models of the same listed size.
You won't be able to tell the extra .25" of height you will gain from a 33" tire.

 

[jbaucom]

285/65R18 is a 33" tire - essentially a 33x11R18. In the future, on a 2" level, you should be able to fit 285/70R18 on stock wheels without issue; a 275/70R18 will fit with no problem. Both of these tire sizes measure over 33". If you just want a taller truck, then a proper lift that corrects your front end geometry is really your only option since you already have a 2" level. Stacking spacers on top of a new coilover and adding a differential drop and new control arms may address CV and ball joint angles, but they do nothing for your tie rod angles. You should really consider your tie rod angles because as the angle gets steeper, the steering rack has to work harder. If you eventually add even larger and heavier tires (and probably wider, from the sound of it), then you'll not only be operating well outside the OE wheel assembly weight and dimensions that the steering rack was designed/selected and tested for, but you'll be stressing it further due to the angle of the tie rods. Half-ton EPS racks don't have a reputation for being overbuilt, and they're not cheap to replace.

 

[D45]

285/65/18 = 32.6 x 11.2R18

Depends what wheels he's running

I'm running a Superlift 3.5" lift on 295/65R18, on factory 18s

295/65R18 : 33.10 x 11.80

 

[D45]

2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 - 2wd & 4wd

Factory 17x8.0 Wheel Offset = +24 mm - Back Space = 5.44" Inches

Factory 18x8.5 Wheel Offset = +24 mm - Back Space = 5.70" Inches

Factory 20x9.0 Wheel Offset = +27 mm - Back Space = 6.06" Inches

Factory 22x9.0 Wheel Offset = +24 mm - Back Space = 5.94" Inches

Lug Pattern = 6 x 139.7