Switched power help needed (06 tacoma)

[barlowrs]

I just installed a 12 circuit blue sea aux fuse block into my truck. This is rated 100amp, so I have a 100 amp breaker in line with it. My original plan was to connect directly to the batter, however, I really like the idea of having it connected to switched power so I cannot leave my radios and crap on all night long.

My question, is there a switched power (acc power) terminal/wire/etc that I can tap into or connect to that will handle 100 amp (I am running 6 gage wire)? I was thinking I could use a 100 amp relay and tap into any acc power to supply the relay, but a relay that can handle 100 amp is very expensive.

Any ideas? Ohh this is for an 06 tacoma.

Thanks.

 

[Jedd]

Your best bet is to do exactly what you suggested, run that through a relay. The only place that you would get switched power from is the key switch.

What I've done with my blue sea fuse panel is run power straight from the battery. Then all my circuits are individually fused via the panel. I don't run high amperage draws through it. Just signal wires for relays. Actually that's not totally true, I run my driving lights through the panel, but all are fused very close to their operating amperage, and distributed across multiple circuits.

If I where to run anything that draws more then 50-100amps I would be running the control off the fuse panel and the power to the item straight from the battery via a relay.

There are also a loooottttt of write ups on here for auxilary power setups if your looking for more ideas.
hope this helps

 

[Dave Bennett]

You'd need a relay to handle the switching, most any wire that goes hot on "keyed ignition" should work as the tickler to activate the relay IMO. I would use the relay to keep things safe since that fuse block has so much potential draw...

 

[WhereTheHellIsJames?]

I have a 6 circuit Blue Sea block, and like you, I used 6GA wire so that if I wanted to, I'd be plenty safe running 100A through it. There is no circuit on your truck that can handle an additional 100A of power, so you'll need to make one. I wanted the fuse block to energize with the ignition switch, but also wanted to be able to energize just the aux. fuse block with the ignition switch off if I felt so inclined.

On my truck I have 6GA wire going from the battery to a 100A resettable circuit breaker, then a 100A relay, then to the aux fuse block. It looks like this:

To energize the relay, a DPDT on-off-on switch with a safety cover was used. There is one 'hot' lead coming from the switch to the relay, and two 'hot' leads going to the switch. The switch isolates the two 'hot' leads going into it, so that only one side is energized at a time. I did this so that I could have two ways to run the fuse block- ignition in 'on' position, and ignition in 'off' position.

In the 'on' position of the toggle switch (down), safety cover closed (normal operation), the hot lead energizing the relay comes from a fused switched ignition source. In the 'on' position of the toggle (up) with the safety up (aux. fuse block only operation, ignition off), the 'hot' lead to the switch comes straight from the fused side of the circuit breaker for the aux. fuse block. I could also deactivate the aux. fuse block altogether with the toggle switch in the center 'off' position if I like.

The relay was relatively inexpensive, as was the switch and cover, and I got them from Waytek.

100A Relay here,
DPDT Switch here,
Switch cover here.

Tip: when ordering from Waytek, try and think of everything you might possibly need now or in the near future, as they have a 'small order' charge of $5 per order.

Also, don't forget that if you're using 6GA wire for the (+) lead to your fuse block, you should also be using 6GA wire to ground your fuse block.

Good luck!

 

[barlowrs]

I have a 6 circuit Blue Sea block, and like you, I used 6GA wire so that if I wanted to, I'd be plenty safe running 100A through it. There is no circuit on your truck that can handle an additional 100A of power, so you'll need to make one. I wanted the fuse block to energize with the ignition switch, but also wanted to be able to energize just the aux. fuse block with the ignition switch off if I felt so inclined.

On my truck I have 6GA wire going from the battery to a 100A resettable circuit breaker, then a 100A relay, then to the aux fuse block. It looks like this:

To energize the relay, a DPDT on-off-on switch with a safety cover was used. There is one 'hot' lead coming from the switch to the relay, and two 'hot' leads going to the switch. The switch isolates the two 'hot' leads going into it, so that only one side is energized at a time. I did this so that I could have two ways to run the fuse block- ignition in 'on' position, and ignition in 'off' position.

In the 'on' position of the toggle switch (down), safety cover closed (normal operation), the hot lead energizing the relay comes from a fused switched ignition source. In the 'on' position of the toggle (up) with the safety up (aux. fuse block only operation, ignition off), the 'hot' lead to the switch comes straight from the fused side of the circuit breaker for the aux. fuse block. I could also deactivate the aux. fuse block altogether with the toggle switch in the center 'off' position if I like.

The relay was relatively inexpensive, as was the switch and cover, and I got them from Waytek.

100A Relay here,
DPDT Switch here,
Switch cover here.

Tip: when ordering from Waytek, try and think of everything you might possibly need now or in the near future, as they have a 'small order' charge of $5 per order.

Also, don't forget that if you're using 6GA wire for the (+) lead to your fuse block, you should also be using 6GA wire to ground your fuse block.

Good luck!

Beautiful! 22 bucks for the relay, that is exactly what I need. Thanks a lot!

Also, about the neg side of the fuse block. My blue sea has neg terminals. My question is, do I really need to run all the neg of my accessories there, or can I simply ground to chassis and the most convenient place?

For example, when I wire my HAM radio up, I have the + coming from the fuse block, do I need to route the – all the way back to the neg terminals on the block, or can I just ground it to chassis somewhere close and convenient?

 

[ntsqd]

You can selectively make each circuit either IGN switched or not by where you get the power to run (not Supply) each circuit's relay. No need for a single, high current relay. Power the control circuits direct from the battery for those that you don't want switched, and off an IGN tap for those circuits that you do want switched. The combined high current demand can come straight from the battery through a fuse/circuit breaker to the fuse block.

 

[Poorboyota26]

http://www.amazon.com/Oakland-Type-Battery-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B002Q1NE0Y

6,12,24 volts 100amps. 20 bucks, and you can usually find them in Napa's and Good auto part stores (Autozones, Advanced, Oriely, need not apply).

 

[Poorboyota26]

For example, when I wire my HAM radio up, I have the + coming from the fuse block, do I need to route the – all the way back to the neg terminals on the block, or can I just ground it to chassis somewhere close and convenient?

Run a wire to a good ground terminal. With close by chassis ground you can get noise. Chassis grounds can be good but make sure they are a good solid point not just sheet metal. If it has to be sheet metal use a star washer.

 

[WhereTheHellIsJames?]

Run a wire to a good ground terminal. With close by chassis ground you can get noise. Chassis grounds can be good but make sure they are a good solid point not just sheet metal. If it has to be sheet metal use a star washer.

Agreed. I ground to the negative side of the aux fuse panel, which is grounded directly to the negative battery terminal.

 

[barlowrs]

great, wires to neg block it is...thanks guys! build is comming along! hopefully I will have build thread updates this week!

 

[ntsqd]

Not to be contradictory, but I run comms radio grounds direct and uninterrupted back to the battery. Everything else can ground closer to the unit itself.