Taco brakes, trailer brakes and FZJ80 questions...

[mtnbike28]

So after a weekend of driving in the NC mountains, I had a unique experience.
Let me start with I have always felt the Tacoma's brakes are weak, and teh motor really struggles up hills with the trailer. I take all this in account when towing.

But after coming down a long mtn road, I had a hard right turn, as I got full on the brakes, I knew I wasn't going to slow enough to make the turn (the road went straight too, so no fear of crashing) when I came to a stop, the brakes were smoking....
What to do? The rear drums are adjusted well. The Conqueror weighs ~1500 lbs wet, so do I:
1. Figure out and install the Tundra brakes on a Tacoma with 190,000 miles?
2. Buy and instal an axle with brakes on the trailer
3. I have always replaced the Tacoma brake pads, and running the original rotors, do I give in and let a professional shop check it out
4. FZJ80 owners? How are these trucks (1994) for motor and brakes when towing? I have a line on one and deciding if I want to go that route.

 

[mtnbike28]

What do you think of these?

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...c=Front&intcmpid=Product+Listings+Best+Seller

 

[Flagster]

I wouldn't want to tow anything with my 95 LC...motor is very anemic when compared to my 2005 Tacoma...brakes are not any better...
Here at +5000 ft in N. AZ I can barely hold 60mph on long grades with any load in the truck...

 

[OverlanderFJ62]

I have a 2004 Tacoma 3.4 4x4 TRD Double Cab with various upgrades for off-roading. I have always found that talking Brake Pads presents a endless amount of feed back along with a personal decision making process. I have approximately 217,000 miles logged so far with roughly 4 front pad and rotor replacements (the rear as in most Toyota applications seem to last forever "same" shoes so far) . Out of the four pad replacements, I would say two where crappy pads (name brand) for the type of application/driving that I was trying to achieve. The below mention has far been the best and has out performed my expectations so far. I do a lot of off-roading in the Sierra(s), both in California and Nevada since that is my local get-way, along with lot(s) of road trips (hi-mileage) to various states. These pads have performed flawlessly for not fading while navigating a tremendous amount elevation changes when going from point to point, meaning highway to back-roads (fire roads), creeping, braking and more braking no matter how much I am using the trans to off-set all this. My limits are class I / class IV off-roading really nothing more with heavy loads about 95% of the time. These seem to work the best for my application. In my view Toyota did not do any justice with the rotor and caliper set-up from a OEM view for the Tacoma V6. But then again we have a way to go beyond what their intent was I am sure. The other comment I will make is that this set up has kept me from the Tundra upgrade which requirees some modification depending on your rim (wheel) size I believe. My two cents....... Good Luck





http://www.hawkperformance.com/truck/superduty.php

Features and Benefits
SuperDuty Compound
Ferro-Carbon Material is Engineered
For Towing Heavy Loads
Extremely High Coefficient Of Friction
Extremely Fade Resistant
Superior High Temp. Rotor/Pad Wear Performance

 

[Box Rocket]

I prefer towing my little trailer (bit lighter than your conqueror) with my Tacoma than I do with my 80. My 80 has 315's but still has stock gears so that isn't helping issues. The 80 is so nice in so many ways but towing up mountain passes is not anything but slow. Braking is mediocre. Towing with the Tacoma is better, but braking is about the same.

Regearing the axles or adding a supercharger to either one would dramitically change the towing experience. As for braking, the Tundra brakes are a decent option, but I think having brakes on the trailer would be even better. At least at that point the trailer is trying to help stop itself.

 

[robert]

At the minimum I would upgrade to some Hawk pads and stainless braided lines and add electric brakes to the trailer with a decent controller. I'm not sure about the older Tacos, but the newer ones have the wiring in place so you just order the connection you need.

 

[mtnbike28]

Thanks for the Hawk recommendation, what rotor do you guys like? OEM? I agree I would prefer not to do the Tundra switch...

 

[Mrknowitall]

I would definitely get some brakes on the trailer- you won't regret it. Gives you a chance to upgrade to 7-pin, as well, so you gain a charge and B/u light circuit.
I loved my Akebono ceramics on the Tundra- very good bite, and no dust. Far better than OE or the cheapies I had put on at the shop. Since you're due for rotors anyway, I would probably go for the Tundra brakes.

 

[ol' scott]

I'm with Mrknowitall, if you're replacing the rotors and everything else why wouldn't you go for the Tundra upgrade? Should be comparable price wise and it's all bolt on stuff. 199mm's if you have the stock split 3 spoke wheels and 231mm's (?) if you have the five star wheels that were later. Plenty of write-ups around, especially on t4r.org. Plus any help stopping even when not towing a trailer is great, right? If it helps you avoid an accident then it's all gravy.

 

[mtnbike28]

If I go the Tundra route, I have to replace the calipers too... correct? I seem to remember some folks having to mess with the brake master or portioning valve (??)

I think I would prefer to keep it simple for me ; ) Has anyone had any luck with Summit Racing Rotors? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-BR-44109R/
They also have the Power Stop rotors...

 

[OverlanderFJ62]

mtnbike28

I would agree with Mrknowital with the trailer brake comments, this also adds another advantage regarding the use of those brakes with the trailer. I will make another comment regarding rotors, the OEM taco rotors just don't have enough metal to cool down and the calipers are very small, they have a tendency to warp quite frequently, especially if you ever happen to get the ABS to kick in if needed, "if equip". I try to find level ground based on cost and performance. In my humble opinion, drilled and slotted rotors may add a slight increase in performance, but they can also present many issues with longevity, meaning they can load up with brake pad material, debris from all the elements that you throw at them and they definitely increase pad wear. Rotor shelf life is not as long when you have reduced the amount of material also. I think I would need to weigh in all the variables of what you are trying to achieve.

You can't go wrong with the Tundra upgrade. In today's dollar its reflectively an inexpensive solution and you will benefit from this. If the trailer is a keeper, then I would be shopping to see whats available for it also.

Good Luck, keep us posted with your thought process, direction and what performance inhancements you have gained.


http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76847

 

[Jeff Wanamog]

I feel your pain. My 2010 Tacoma brakes sucked when I had my FWC loaded. I did drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads with S/S brake lines and it made a big difference. Big, not huge, but I was once again confortable driving off road on steep down hills. Then I built my trailer http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/73403-Jeff-s-Cargo-Conversion with a 3500lb axel with 10" brakes and the entire world changed when it came to stopping.
I can stop on a dime and give you change (old person's saying). And you can reach down and activate the brake controller to help straighten the trailer out when in the dirt.

Jeff

 

[austintaco]

Tundra brakes.

I didn't tow much before, so I don't have much to compare it too, but towing a converted toyota truck bed trailer around, I haven't had any problems. My truck is on the heavy side too with a flippac, 255's, and some heavy bumpers. I think tundra sized brakes should have been part of the TRD package.

 

[Clutch]

I tow about the same weight as you do, maybe 500 lbs more, and no trailer brakes. I never really had a problem with the stock brakes, I use the engine to brake though. Joys of a manual transmission. They made it to 256K miles before I couldn't turn them anymore, they have only been machined three times during their lifespan. So I decided to upgrade anyway. Just threw a set of crossed drilled and slotted rotors on mine, and high performance pads.

Stops on a dime now, where before it stopped on a quarter...

$118 to my door.

http://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotors/Premium-Dimpled-and-Slotted-Brake-Rotors.php

 

[Rotorgeek]

Has anyone done a rear disk mod?