Tallest 275 pizza cutter

[beef tits]

Well... that's confusing since you are the 2nd person to say that. In the video I posted above, he found that the skinny tires flexed much better than the wide ones... it wasn't close. And most of us are using E rated tires anyway, since in the big sizes that is most common. Just sayin', a skinny E should ride better than a fat E.

I don't know why they'd be harsh unless they were over-inflated. With a ~2250lb load per tire, proper inflation pressure is 35spi, even though the E can go to 80psi if the load warrants it. This is looking at the 285/75r18 (E) and 35x11.5r18 (C).

Yeah, a skinny E might be a little more compliant than a fat E.... but a skinny E vs skinny C will be night and day... bricks vs clouds as someone said above.

Even de-flated, the flex you get in an E is abysmal unless you are in a behemoth vehicle (what they're made for).

I ran 285/75/18-E (35x11) Geolanders on a pretty heavy tundra. The only time they ever felt remotely compliant was with a FWC Granby in the back & loaded for a trip. I was well over GVWR, nearly 8,500 lbs fully loaded... and took that thing some crazy places. Then and only then, the tires would flex and the ride would be smooth and compliant.

 

[Jupiter58]

You are stuck on 18’s?
Is that just for appearances?
As mentioned before there are a lot more options available in 17s and an extra 1/2 inch of rubber on the bottom over the 18s is more ride compliant.
Weight is another concern. Just a 10 pound addition per tire will be noticeable.
I just changed out the steel wheels and 32s the PO had on my jkur for 33s and stock wheels. I saved about 20 pounds per wheel tire combo and I noticed a significant difference. The first time I hit the brakes at slow speed. That unsprung weight affects ride, performance and wear and tear on all your suspension components. I gained 2-3 mpg, up to 18-18.5 now.
On my previous jku I added the Kenda Klever 35x10.5x17 (a true pizza cutter) at about 63 lbs per tire, about a 20 pound hit per wheel and again all those negative performance consequences showed up.
I also just went to 33s on my f150 3.5 eb adding about 10-11 pounds a tire and the acceleration from a stop is noticeably slower. Not such a big deal with that motor as the turbos overcome that pretty quickly. Plus I took a 1.5-2 mpg hit.

Just food for thought

 

[(none)]

As already mentioned, all depends on your goals. On my Tundra, i have no need for E-rated tires and i do not want the weight/ride penalty the comes along with them. I also wanted to bump up the tire size slightly to a 275/70 18. There are currently 3 p-rated options which end up being 1" taller over stock with only a 3-7lb weight penalty.

• General Grabber ATX- option i went with. Standard on the F150 Tremmor. They look great, but even that weight and diameter difference is noticeable. I've had them on for 4k or so, much of that towing a 4-ish k enclosed trailer. They have done just fine so far, although they are not silent quiet, they do make a little noise.
• Some other General tire which is stock on the Titan Pro-4x, much more road friendly tread.
• New Nitto Terra Grappler G3 is also available in this size. If i hadn't already bought my Grabbers, i probably would have tried these instead as im sure they are quieter.

I tow, spend 99% of my time on road. Most off-road this truck will probably ever see are the gravel/dirt roads in the mountains around here which are also driven by Civics, Altimas and minivans...

 

[rruff]

I just changed out the steel wheels and 32s the PO had on my jkur for 33s and stock wheels. I saved about 20 pounds per wheel tire combo and I noticed a significant difference. The first time I hit the brakes at slow speed. That unsprung weight affects ride, performance and wear and tear on all your suspension components. I gained 2-3 mpg, up to 18-18.5 now.

Tire/wheel weight does effect ride, but the effect on acceleration and mpg is minuscule. Simple physics of momentum.

Rather, when we get tires that happen to be heavier, they are usually a larger diameter (gearing is higher) and they have a lot more rolling resistance (hysteresis) due to heavier duty sidewalls and thick tread.

But that isn't a good "rule of thumb" either, since construction and compounds vary a lot. The tires I have now (Hankook ATM) weigh over double the stock weight, yet rolling resistance is less, and I get better mpg! The difference between various brands/models of AT and MT tires is huge, but no one measures them for rolling resistance. Manufacturers have to balance a lot of competing tradeoffs, so if the consumer and testers are not paying attention to rolling resistance and mpg, then the manufacturer won't either.

Just in terms of $ it isn't trivial. The difference between 15mpg and 17, over 50k miles with $3/gal gas, is ~$1,200. The better mpg option would comparatively be like getting new tires for free.

Also... everyone online who had an opinion told me I'd need a regear with bigger tires and loaded camper, else my mpg would be terrible and the truck would drive like crap. Nope. I hit the tow/haul button when highway cruising and it's perfectly fine. Thinking about 37s for my next set. 🤪

Oh, regarding wheel size, the 2nd gen Tundras have 18s for brake caliper clearance. There are a couple special 17s that can clear with good offset.

 

[Smileyshaun]

As already mentioned, all depends on your goals. On my Tundra, i have no need for E-rated tires and i do not want the weight/ride penalty the comes along with them. I also wanted to bump up the tire size slightly to a 275/70 18. There are currently 3 p-rated options which end up being 1" taller over stock with only a 3-7lb weight penalty.

• General Grabber ATX- option i went with. Standard on the F150 Tremmor. They look great, but even that weight and diameter difference is noticeable. I've had them on for 4k or so, much of that towing a 4-ish k enclosed trailer. They have done just fine so far, although they are not silent quiet, they do make a little noise.
• Some other General tire which is stock on the Titan Pro-4x, much more road friendly tread.
• New Nitto Terra Grappler G3 is also available in this size. If i hadn't already bought my Grabbers, i probably would have tried these instead as im sure they are quieter.

I tow, spend 99% of my time on road. Most off-road this truck will probably ever see are the gravel/dirt roads in the mountains around here which are also driven by Civics, Altimas and minivans...

See if you can get into a geolander g015 , so far it has been the smoothest tire I have ever owned . You know when you let off the gas and your vehicle just starts slowing down on its own yaaaa mine doesn’t do that anymore it just keeps rolling . They also tend to be skinner than other tires of the same size my 315s are only 11.5 wide . I only lost 1 mpg going from a 33-35 (yes hand calculated)

 

[Downytide]

Tire/wheel weight does effect ride, but the effect on acceleration and mpg is minuscule. Simple physics of momentum.

Rather, when we get tires that happen to be heavier, they are usually a larger diameter (gearing is higher) and they have a lot more rolling resistance (hysteresis) due to heavier duty sidewalls and thick tread.

But that isn't a good "rule of thumb" either, since construction and compounds vary a lot. The tires I have now (Hankook ATM) weigh over double the stock weight, yet rolling resistance is less, and I get better mpg! The difference between various brands/models of AT and MT tires is huge, but no one measures them for rolling resistance. Manufacturers have to balance a lot of competing tradeoffs, so if the consumer and testers are not paying attention to rolling resistance and mpg, then the manufacturer won't either.

Just in terms of $ it isn't trivial. The difference between 15mpg and 17, over 50k miles with $3/gal gas, is ~$1,200. The better mpg option would comparatively be like getting new tires for free.

Also... everyone online who had an opinion told me I'd need a regear with bigger tires and loaded camper, else my mpg would be terrible and the truck would drive like crap. Nope. I hit the tow/haul button when highway cruising and it's perfectly fine. Thinking about 37s for my next set. 🤪

Oh, regarding wheel size, the 2nd gen Tundras have 18s for brake caliper clearance. There are a couple special 17s that can clear with good offset.

You can actually have very good clearance with 17s, keep in mind gen 2 had 17s stock, only gen 2.5 start using 18" steelies, I actually have StopTech 6 piston calipers behind my 17" turbomacs.

I think lightest 35s with 18" wheels is Goodyear Territory AT (aka TRX stock tires) in 325/65r18, I recall they were only 62lbs per tire.

See if you can get into a geolander g015 , so far it has been the smoothest tire I have ever owned . You know when you let off the gas and your vehicle just starts slowing down on its own yaaaa mine doesn’t do that anymore it just keeps rolling . They also tend to be skinner than other tires of the same size my 315s are only 11.5 wide . I only lost 1 mpg going from a 33-35 (yes hand calculated)

I had a set of G015, like you said, they were amazing, amazing in snow, amazing in wear, I had solid 100k km on a set of those and never once they needed re-balancing.

 

[treeviper]

Just be cautious that 285/75r18s are pretty much all load index 129, that means they are very very stiff, I've had 2 sets of them, terrific when towing but the ride can be jarring.

Falken AT4W however just launched 35x11r18 and in c-load, that's a very worthy consideration if you don't have to load your truck to the max.

I saw those Falkens. But they are 285 not 275.

 

[grizzlypath]

Just a little food for thought too- My 285 BFGoodrich KO3 are an entire inch skinner than my 285 Duratracs. Differences in manufactures and all that. But pretty shocking to measure the actual difference.

 

[rruff]

You can actually have very good clearance with 17s, keep in mind gen 2 had 17s stock, only gen 2.5 start using 18" steelies, I actually have StopTech 6 piston calipers behind my 17" turbomacs.

What is the offset? The only 17" wheel for stock 2nd gen was with the Rock Warrior package. Nice and light forged AL BBS wheels. That was only for a few years at most...

I think lightest 35s with 18" wheels is Goodyear Territory AT (aka TRX stock tires) in 325/65r18, I recall they were only 62lbs per tire.

T speed rating, so I bet it's good for MPG...

 

[tirod3]

Part of the "miniscule" effect of larger diameter tires is how the sensors input the changed signal into the EFI system, transmission controls, and speedometer. Generally, speedo's are knocked out of accuracy, with as much as a 10mph difference recorded - usually UNDER indicated, which leads to getting pulled over more for speed violations. A good driver will note how much more quickly they are passing traffic, but alone on a freeway, it's less noticeable until the red lights start flashing.

That difference then goes into computer calculations affecting engine driveability and gear selection. If the input signal is inaccurate, then results will be based on errors, which makes for some interesting driveability issues. The key when moving up to larger tires is to also include speed sensor correction, which may require some somewhat pricey devices to do it. We no longer use a easy to change cable gear stuck on the tailshaft like older models, sensors are now reading the tone rings on each wheel thru the ABS and also sensors in the trans. My old 05 F150 has two, input shaft speed and output, which tell the shift computer information, plus a shift position sensor to verify against.

Good luck with all that. There is no universal fix, every make and model is different now.

 

[rruff]

Good luck with all that. There is no universal fix, every make and model is different now.

That's why I bought a throttle mapping doohickey (lets me set my preferred pedal to throttle relationship) , and use tow/haul mode (more aggressive shifts and hangs onto gears longer). The stock settings, which are designed for EPA driving cycle, sucked. More popular trucks have more customization options.

Anyway it all functions great, and I couldn't care less about the speedometer being off. That math only requires 2 brain cells, and I still have an extra one for watching the road... 🤪

 

[Downytide]

What is the offset? The only 17" wheel for stock 2nd gen was with the Rock Warrior package. Nice and light forged AL BBS wheels. That was only for a few years at most...


T speed rating, so I bet it's good for MPG...

17x8.5 et0 , I've tried ET40 and it clears as well, I like Rock Warrior wheels, but impossible to find near me.

Factory forged BBS was about 29lbs, the turbomac was 26lbs, but it allows me to run 37 KO2s with 116s load index, which weights 62lbs.

Factory BBS + skinny 35s = 93lbs per corner
Turbo Macs + KO2 37s = 88lbs per corner

there's practically zero difference in fuel consumption, and all the 0-60 and 1/4 mile runs remains the same, I would love to either get some lighter 17"s made, the goal is 19lbs per wheel.

I think the best combo would probably run super light 17s and 315/70r17 ko2 in c-load, you will probably be at 80lbs per corner, smooth ride and still can do just about everything.

 

[rruff]

I guess ET is offset? A 0 offset is 60mm or 2.4" more outboard than stock. You need a big lift to clear 37s, something I wouldn't be interested in. 40mm offset would be good, but I don't know of any 17s that have it.