Been a minute...
Man, I've got to get better about keeping up with this thing.
First things first. There've been a few updates:
http://www.thedrive.com/travel/2811/the-long-first-month
http://www.thedrive.com/travel/2823/louisiana-and-the-lessons-therein
http://www.thedrive.com/travel/2877/on-to-texas
http://www.thedrive.com/travel/2917/for-the-love-of-austin
http://www.thedrive.com/travel/2967/ama-pro-flat-track-is-the-last-great-spectacle-in-racing
http://www.thedrive.com/travel/3015/hurtful-days-in-southwest-texas
http://www.thedrive.com/travel/3071/in-the-crook-of-the-rio-grande
http://www.thedrive.com/travel/3143/family-and-familiarity
That about catches us up. So, yeah. We crossed Louisiana and dropped into Houston. Spent a few nights there with some friends before rolling west again. Some work cohorts just landed in Austin back in September, and gave us a place to stay for a week while we checked the place out. It lives up to its reputation. Lots of excellent food, plenty to drink, good music, great coffee, etc. If you want it, it's there. The downside, of course, is that it's there for something like 4 million people. If you can stay put, keep yourself parked in one little corner of the place, it's great, but god help you if you have to dice with traffic. Nice place to visit, less so to live. We took one day and ventured out of town. Hiked down to Hamilton Pool. I have to say, I've never seen anything quiet like it.
Can't recommend it enough, though if you're going to go, make sure you have a reservation. In the summer, they turn away something like 70 percent of the people who show up on any given day, just to keep the crowds manageable. I'd wager that the place would be heaven on a cool and rainy weekday.
The time in Austin also gave me the chance to execute a modification to the camper that I'd been wanting to make for a minute.
A cheapy 12v amp with aux in and a pair of marine-grade 5.25 Polks. When kiddo's in an outright rage, few things work better than cranking some tunes for an impromptu dance party. A friend had given us a bluetooth speaker, but those things always sound like garbage to me. All that compression. This isn't exactly audiophile quality, but at least you can feel it in your feet when you get the volume going.
From Austin, we headed to Seminole Canyon. Wound up there mostly because there aren't too many other options, but it turned out to be a great spot. We'd heard a lot of worry about being so close to the border with Mexico, but it was mostly just quiet and beautiful. The park's claim to fame is a bunch of canyon paintings from 1,800 years ago. We wanted to see them, but the tour down there is only available on a handful of days, and we missed those. Even so, the park is great. There's a massive, deep, smooth-walled canyon that runs all the way to the Rio Grande, and you can hike the rim all the way to the river. Lots of gorgeous blooming desert plants, lots of wildlife. Gorgeous stars. It's quiet. Exactly what we needed after spending time in the two cities.
We also got to watch three massive thunderstorms wallow their way north from Mexico. They looked close, but they were so far off we couldn't hear their barking. Just a long, gorgeous light show for us.
And then? Big Bend. Man. What can I say about the place? If you haven't been, go. Do it now. Well, maybe not now. Maybe wait until October when it cools off some, but the place is phenomenal. Easily in my top three favorite places I've been. The best campsites in the place are backcountry, accessible by rough two-track trail through the scrub brush, ocotillo, and cactus. Figure more than 100 miles of two track trail out there, some easy enough for a Camry, some that might require a locker and some disregard for sheetmetal. The Rangers are knowledgeable about all of the road conditions, and can recommend some fantastic sites.
We stayed at Twisted Shoe the first night.
You get the idea. We did have a hell of a windstorm the first night. The Ranger Dave, the back country ranger who was on duty, came by the next morning to see if we were alright, and said they saw a gust of 48 mph. Sure sounded like it inside the camper. The thing was rocking and rolling, and it felt like a big fist was constantly pummeling the roof. The thing took it just fine, though.
We ran out to Fresno the next night. Fresno's out there. Probably about 2.5 hours by dirt at around 10 mph. The truck is big and heavy, and not made for pounding over uneven terrain, even with the tires aired down considerably. So, we just took our time and trundled out there. The landscape changes so quickly, from mile to mile. From vacant, burnt desert to lush wash and back again. The terrain is beautiful and fierce all the same time. The Fresno site is at the base of an abandoned mercury mine, and you can hike up and explore the ruins up there. Pretty fantastic.
The truck is the white dot in the lower left hand corner of this photo.
The sunsets out there are sublime. The rocks just explode with color. With fire. And when the dusk finally lets go and night takes over, the stars are unlike anything I've ever seen. The glowing dust of the Milky Way is bright enough to see by. Just, fantastic.
I wanted stay down there forever, but the daytime temperatures were already in the low 90s. My wife has a wilderness first aid class scheduled for next month in Fort Collins, so we decided to press north. We had planned to spend some time in Guadalupe National Park, but the campground there was pretty bleak. Just a big, paved parking lot. Pass. We rolled up the road, found some BLM land and had no neighbors beyond some cows for the night.
From there, we headed up through Roswell and into the Lincoln National Forest. Stayed at the Baca Campground there. It's free, used mostly by hunters and the like, but it's stone quiet. A good spot to get some writing done. We had to do some adjusting to get used to the temperature drop, though. The first night, we watched snow dust the mountaintops to our north.
We headed up to Los Alamos from there. Stopped in Santa Fe to give REI a paycheck. Picked up a new pack for the kiddo, since she's gotten too big for the old one. Such is life, I guess.
I really like this area. It's gorgeous. Lots of open outdoor areas for climbing and fishing and biking and wheeling. It's colder than snot, but otherwise, it's pretty perfect. The labs mean there a bunch of wealthy, educated folks around, and that means the schools are pretty top notch. It's definitely going on the list of places we could see ourselves.
We're planning the route north from here. I'm a little concerned about the temperatures in the higher elevations. It looks like they're still seeing lows in the 20s. Beth and I are fine, but it's hard to know whether kiddo is warm enough or not. Keeps me up at night.