patoz
Expedition Leader
I like that one also, even though the bowl itself is slightly smaller. Advantages and disadvantages to both styles.
The Build Has Begun!!
- Thread starter EXPO365
- Start date
I like that one also, even though the bowl itself is slightly smaller. Advantages and disadvantages to both styles.
rlrenz
Explorer
When you removed your light bar brackets, were they bolted into tapped holes in the vertical framing tubing, or were they through bolted? Were they bolted with 5/16 or 3/8 bolts?
Access to the rear of the bulkhead in my buggy looks real poor, and drilling and tapping might be about the best option I'll have.
Access to the rear of the bulkhead in my buggy looks real poor, and drilling and tapping might be about the best option I'll have.
EXPO365
Adventurer
Through with 5/16 bolt and 3 inch washers....tapping may not be strong enough I think. The body is only 1/4 inch thick. If you catch the studs than maybe. If you pull the front lights out, than you should be able to stick your arm down in there to access the nuts.
EXPO365
Adventurer
Updates and Question for you guys...
So I believe I took care to the hard start issue...
I wasn't getting enough power to the glow plugs so I swapped the relay for them and it fired up super quick. I also checked again for any fuel leaks, the valley was full again...CRAP!!!!
So I shoved some rags down in there to soak it up and I turned out to be just rain water....glad it's not fuel but now I'm wondering how that got there...
I also found the PSOM fuse was blistered so I put a new one in and that fixed the bouncing speedo and the blinking odometer. I found this wire under the dash, what the hell is it? It's a single wire connector on it and I can't find anything that would plug into it. Programming wire?!?
Last but not least, Im putting in a new radio unit. I'm wondering if you can tell me what the difference is between the LCD display and the illumination circuit is? I assume the LCD circuit is literally just for the display on the stock radio.
So I believe I took care to the hard start issue...
I wasn't getting enough power to the glow plugs so I swapped the relay for them and it fired up super quick. I also checked again for any fuel leaks, the valley was full again...CRAP!!!!
So I shoved some rags down in there to soak it up and I turned out to be just rain water....glad it's not fuel but now I'm wondering how that got there...
I also found the PSOM fuse was blistered so I put a new one in and that fixed the bouncing speedo and the blinking odometer. I found this wire under the dash, what the hell is it? It's a single wire connector on it and I can't find anything that would plug into it. Programming wire?!?
Last but not least, Im putting in a new radio unit. I'm wondering if you can tell me what the difference is between the LCD display and the illumination circuit is? I assume the LCD circuit is literally just for the display on the stock radio.
Mounting anything in the center will be darn near impossible, but my light bar mounts on 36 inch centers, so working through the light cutouts plus through some interior access will make it straightforward - thankfully, I have long arms.... All I'll need is someone on the outside turning the other wrench.
EXPO365
Adventurer
🏻
patoz
Expedition Leader
Some of this may help you and some may not. The first three are web pages, and you'll need to look around on them to find stuff. Most of this is for the professionals, but I found a lot of it very helpful. Some areas are not complete, and finding stuff that goes back to the early 90's is always fun.
Fleet Ford Home Page (manuals at the bottom) - http://www.fleet.ford.com/
Body Builders Advisory Service - https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/
Body Builders Layout Book - https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/bodybuild.html
1998 Econoline & 1997 F-Series Light Truck Incomplete Vehicle Manual - https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1998/1998.pdf
QVM Bulletin No. Q-63 - BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCH ELIMINATION ON AMBULANCE APPLICATIONS - https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q63.PDF
Fleet Ford Home Page (manuals at the bottom) - http://www.fleet.ford.com/
Body Builders Advisory Service - https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/
Body Builders Layout Book - https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/bodybuild.html
1998 Econoline & 1997 F-Series Light Truck Incomplete Vehicle Manual - https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1998/1998.pdf
QVM Bulletin No. Q-63 - BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCH ELIMINATION ON AMBULANCE APPLICATIONS - https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q63.PDF
guidolyons
Addicted to Gear Oil
Yep, well sort of... not an input, but you ground the PSOM wire to recalibrate the PSOM. Here's some info on the PSOM http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?5242-92-97-Speedometer-(PSOM) you can change it using the odometer reset button and the ignition key, but you can only change it 6 times, then the PSOM locks you out.
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EXPO365
Adventurer
Hmmm....has anybody does the fix for this?
rlrenz
Explorer
The easiest way to comply is to have separate batteries for the module, and a battery-combiner relay that ties everything together when the vehicle is running - check out Blue-Sea charging relays. I'm using a Xantrex Echo Charger to charge my deep cycle battery at 15 amps whenever the main battery voltage rises. Since my deep cycle battery basically only handles a 3 amp refrigerator load, a 15 amp charger is all that I'll need.
If you do decide to install a manual battery switch (on your module batteries?), install it in the negative (ground) lead - that way, if the switch ever fails, you won't have a dead short between the positive and ground - you'll just have negative going directly to ground.
If you do decide to install a manual battery switch (on your module batteries?), install it in the negative (ground) lead - that way, if the switch ever fails, you won't have a dead short between the positive and ground - you'll just have negative going directly to ground.
patoz
Expedition Leader
All this means is the 'Battery Disconnect' switch can only cut power to the rear module, and the emergency lighting, but not to the Ford OEM chassis, engine, equipment, etc. The Ford vehicle part must retain power at all times, just like any other normal vehicle does.
Back in the 70's when you turned the big red knob to 'OFF', you cut power to the entire vehicle, but more modern vehicles need constant power for components like the on-board computers, program memories, automatic systems, security systems, etc.
Test your system to see if the vehicle will start with the battery switch in the 'OFF' position. If it won't, then the switch is probably cutting power to everything. However, I believe you said yours was a 1995, and since that QVM Bulletin is dated March 1, 1999, I wouldn't worry about it.
What Bob is talking about above is from the charging aspect of it, and is ideally the best way to go about it. You have to remember, ambulances are designed to have the engine running while all of it systems are operating, and not the other way around. When you use it for camping, you want to be able to run its systems while the engine is shut down, so that's where the second bank of batteries comes into play. Think RV not EMS when camping!
BTW Bob, good tip on installing the battery switch on the negative side of the batteries. I just may have to do that!
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