thethePete
Explorer
I also forgot the second people hit the Internet their understanding of hyperbole disappears.
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Instead of machining a spacer, why not machine a new tone ring and skip the stacked up tolerances? Or have one waterjet cut?
^ Tried to PM you, your inbox is full.
...or, do what Quigley does and move the tone ring closer to the drive flange of the hub where the OD is bigger than the ID of the tone ring... then position the VSS where you do not have to machine the spindle or knuckle. Someone earlier in the thread suggested something along these lines... can't remember who that ************ was.
I thought you were taking your professional assumptions that a truck and van have the same chassis and leaving along with the belief that an IFS axle offered with leafs will mostly bolt up to a 2wd coil sprung vehicle.
A dense princess indeed.
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Ad Homenim whatnow? I was speaking to a fellow professional, about things he explained to you but you were too thick to understand. Pull your head out of your rectum and maybe some of his advice will make it to your brain. I swear, you must just be doing this on purpose, no one can be this bad at reading comprehension.
I also forgot you were using leafsprung beams not coil sprung, but it's still not that dissimilar. The van was set up with ibeams and radus arms originally, and the TTB set up (in other configurations) used the exact same mounting points and geometry. Dial back your butthurt defensiveness a notch. Further, it doesn't negate my previous comments about your lack of understanding when it was basically spelled out for you. Suspension design is not easy or for the uninitiated. I'm not questioning your ability to draw information from those who actually know what they're doing so you can redneck engineer your way around problems like the ABS sensors. I'm questioning your ability to make a properly functioning and safely mounted suspension set up on a road driven vehicle when it was practically spelled out to you what needed to be done. And you're not the only one here asking questions, this is an info thread, not a build thread last I checked.
Finally, that post wasn't directed at you anyway, so take your own advice and go pound sand.
Ad Homenim whatnow? I was speaking to a fellow professional, about things he explained to you but you were too thick to understand. Pull your head out of your rectum and maybe some of his advice will make it to your brain. I swear, you must just be doing this on purpose, no one can be this bad at reading comprehension.
I also forgot you were using leafsprung beams not coil sprung, but it's still not that dissimilar. The van was set up with ibeams and radus arms originally, and the TTB set up (in other configurations) used the exact same mounting points and geometry. Dial back your butthurt defensiveness a notch. Further, it doesn't negate my previous comments about your lack of understanding when it was basically spelled out for you. Suspension design is not easy or for the uninitiated. I'm not questioning your ability to draw information from those who actually know what they're doing so you can redneck engineer your way around problems like the ABS sensors. I'm questioning your ability to make a properly functioning and safely mounted suspension set up on a road driven vehicle when it was practically spelled out to you what needed to be done. And you're not the only one here asking questions, this is an info thread, not a build thread last I checked.
Finally, that post wasn't directed at you anyway, so take your own advice and go pound sand.
^ Tried to PM you, your inbox is full.
... I would box up the first ~24" of the arm coming from the axle with some 3/16" plate, and then add a gusset (3/8" or so thick) along the upper tube that reaches to the top of the axle beam where the section of box tubing is...