hey there-
just read your entire thread! the wife has been yelling at me to come help with dinner for the last half-hour!...
i have an old school FWC as well that i'm looking to re-furb this winter, though not nearly to the extent of tear down you undertook...
can't wait to see your roof build. are you sticking with the same basic design of the original? if so, did you think of trying to flip the existing roof framing over to mirror your 1/4" off set? just a thought. did you end up ordering the OEM lift panels for FWC as opposed to making your own? were they worth the coin?
also- are the exterior panels that you're ordering custom made to your dimensions? or are you working with something they already produce? i'm looking at different ideas for paneling as well and can't remember if you mentioned the cost of them?
thanks for continuing the thread! i'm really looking forward to seeing you re-attach the canvas!
-darin
:victory:
Hey Darin;
Sorry for the delay in replying. The weather isn't cooperating so I'm kind of enjoying taking a break from all of this.
The roof will be similar in design to the original, but on steroids. The original roof is made from very light gauge 1" square tube, I'm using 1"x1-1/2" for the interior framing and 1-1/2"x2" for the perimeter. The 1-1/2" high profile of the roof frame causes me to have to come up with a special perimeter trim detail as the factory trim is sized for the 1" height profile. I do need to use the factory trim though, as it is a T shape, the leg on the back side of the trim keeps the fabric of the soft wall out of the pinch zone when the roof is down. I think I have the perimeter detail figured out but still have to figure out the best way to crown the roof so I don't get any ponding on the roof. Due to the rigidity of the fiberglass sheet that I am using on the roof, I have to make sure it is crowned in one direction only or it won't lay down on the adhesive tape correctly.
I did buy the new composite lift panels from FWC. Due to the custom spring loaded hinges and issues trying find the material, it became obvious that it was going to cost me more to build my own since I would be one offing it. Are they worth the $950 they cost? Doesn't really seem like they should be that expensive, but that's what they cost and it took FWC a long time get the new panels sorted out, so they have to recoup their investment. Unfortunately the materials involved are just soo expensive, just the cost of the hinges is crazy. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out another solution, possibly something like the gear drive lift panels at that Hallmark uses, but the FWC solution is somewhat elegant in its simplicity. The new panels are much more robust than the old wood paneling version but I'm still concerned about them being able to take the weight of the new roof. Buy the time to roof is completed and the uni-solor panels and 2 Maxx Air vents and lighting is installed, I could see the roof being in the 200 pound range. I might end up having to add the lift assist struts, which I really don't want to do since there is no good place to put them. I really don't like where FWC installs them in the interior so I'll probably end up installing a set on the front and rear of the roof on the exterior, which seems like a fairly common installation method for them, but I don't like the look of them on the exterior.
As far as flipping the existing roof, it's really not an option due to the crown, and the quantity of work involved to remove the aluminum roofing and headliner and swap it around. Way too much work to still be left with the original roof frame. I used three pieces of plywood sitting on top of the camper body to trace out the perimeter of the body to use as a template to build the roof to. With that on the ground, where it is easy to setup controls lines, I discovered that the cabover is actually straight. Bows in the walls from the welding create the illusion of the cabover being out of square. I do have a little out of square issue on the back wall though, so the body of the camper is a parallelogram. I thought my welder was joking when he told me his kids where using the piece of plywood the side walls were jigged up on as a skateboard ramp, but now I know he was serious. Both walls where jigged up off of the same control line so something got bumped out before they were welded. With the new roof built to fit, you'll never see it though.
The exterior siding and roof panel are all Crane Composites Noble Select product, and ordered in the size I need them. If I remember correctly they cam be a max of 10' wide with a max length of 58' long as a single sheet. It was easy to tell that the panels I ordered for the walls (5'x7') were cut from a larger sheet. They don't normally sell to private parties and don't normally sell in the small quantities I have bought. I got lucky through some constructions and have to wait for them to get other orders for the same material for them to run mine. Apparently it is all made to order. The cost of the sideing is $4.95 sq ft, plus a crating fee and shipping. It all comes from the west cost. If you decide you want to use this product let me know and I'll give you a phone number to talk to the guy that set me up.
Oh, one last thing. Since I have to build the roof now, I'm going to have FWC make me a new softwall with the arctic option. My existing softwall is in pretty good shape and is the insulated version but I don't want to ever have to get back into the roof so I'm going all new now. Hopefully I'll be able to sell my softwall and recover a few dollars.
Hopefully I've answered all of your questions.