One of the more complicated questions we get is relative to how our battery protection system works.
When does it know to shut off the cooler before you get to a no start situation (if you are using a single battery for your vehicle)? Even if you are using a secondary battery the same question applies except it removes the no start situation.
If you are using a single battery (starter battery) we recommend that you start out with our battery protection set to
HIGH initially (and perhaps
MEDIUM after you've done some testing to see how it works with your vehicle).
Here's why....
- Voltage is sensed at the CFX DC socket and not at the terminals on the batteries. Many people don't realize just how much voltage loss occurs with thin gauge wire, poor electrical connectors, and old wiring. For example, a member of our team has a '87 FJ60. When trying to using the 12V socket in the dash, there is such a terrible loss that it won't power a CFX regardless of battery protection setting.
- When current is pulled through a wire, the voltage drops by default, which causes more loss (Pukert's law).
Symptom
All the above can cause the battery protection to activate since the cooler isn't getting the power it needs - regardless of the reason. This also protects the cooler components.
Solution
If you have problems powering your cooler with your existing wiring pick up one of our
DC Hardwire Kits. 10AWG direct from your battery to a socket for your cooler.
If you use a dual battery set up (in vehicle or one of our PLB40s) set battery protection to
LOW.
Below is information showing at what points the battery protection for the CFX3 will kick in and shut the cooler down as well as in what range it will happily run.
View attachment 564821
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