The Fake Jeep Not a Real Cruiser Thread

BlaZeJeep

New member
Great pictures Kristian, and enjoyed reading your blog. Really like your new FJC, I wanted one when my wife and I went car shopping last year. We found a nice 2007 4Runner SR5 with low miles instead, and we are really happy with it. The FJC just didn't have the room we needed. I agree with your assessment of the ATRAC, it works very well. With the center diff lock and ATRAC I don't see needing a locker, just a little practice on the skinny pedal. :sombrero:
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Great pictures Kristian, and enjoyed reading your blog. Really like your new FJC, I wanted one when my wife and I went car shopping last year. We found a nice 2007 4Runner SR5 with low miles instead, and we are really happy with it. The FJC just didn't have the room we needed. I agree with your assessment of the ATRAC, it works very well. With the center diff lock and ATRAC I don't see needing a locker, just a little practice on the skinny pedal. :sombrero:


Thanks much appreciated. Sorry I haven't been on Expo too much the past few months and missed your reply. I know what you are saying about interior space. We were on such a time crunch to replace our FJ60 since we basically realized it was mortally wounded the day before our baby came into the world and a week before we were moving from Jackson to Vail. Had I had more time I think a 100 series and 4runner would have been considered more carefully as candidates as well. Coming from a background of an 80 series, a couple of 60's, a Tundra, a couple of Troopers, and a Disco, I always leaned towards interior space. The FJC is definitely smaller, but we have made it work through better organization and packing. I think it is an ok tradeoff so far since the shorter wheelbase requires less mechanical mods to get through the same trails. I still think the more stock you can leave a vehicle the better so its interesting to see what this 105" wheelbase affords. Really, I have been impressed what we have done with no lift, 33's and a full load. Scaling down does have its benefits.
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
So I have had several months where I have been completely consumed with work and work travel. I haven't done anything new to the FJC besides put a crack across the entire windshield from a stone chip, d'oh! I have spent a good amount of time pondering the next steps though as spring is closing in. Here is what I have planned for the vehicle....

1. Baja Rack Utility Rack. This will be the next purchase. I am ordering through my good friends and my most trusted supplier, Roam Automotive http://roamauto.com/ Along with the rack I will be picking up the dual fuel can carrier mount. I think I can perfect our packing needs with this rack with our RTT, the ability to haul two fuel cans, and one waterproof box (either Pelican or Zarges) that will hold recovery gear and other essentials I don't need on a daily basis. I know, I know, roof loads are your enemy.... True, but if you are a good driver and have a grasp of how the vehicle handles both on and off road, I truly believe its fine. Its about car control and feel, just like driving a sports car on a track, after so many miles and time behind the wheel, you can feel when you are approaching limits. Since our goal isn't to tackle the most difficult tracks, but to to travel and live self contained for several weeks at a time, off the beaten path, I think the tradeoffs with this stuff on the roof outweigh the cost of either towing a trailer or foregoing a RTT. Do you need a RTT? No, it is a luxury, but with a now 6 month old infant it is worth the compromise to us. Having a place to cook, hangout, and relax out of weather is well worth the trade off. We have every thing we could need with us, so towing a trailer would be a waste, unless we wanted to bring kayaks or a canoe, that is my only consideration to going that route. Otherwise, being compact, and keeping it simple is our mantra.

2. Lift. I have used OME now on several vehicles and have always been pleased with the performance, simplicity, and cost of entry. Again, I want to keep as many OEM parts as possible. The reason I went Toyota again is because I feel like they are some of the best screwed together vehicles built. Why would I want to replace stuff that wasn't necessary? Being able to fix something via parts available at a Toyota dealership while on the road is a plus. This is a common vehicle and most parts are on hand. Thats appealing for travelling abroad but also just locally in North America as well. So here is my question..... I feel I must give due diligence to all options before pulling the trigger. OME obviously has been my first choice but I know alot of folks are very happy running Icon on their FJC's. For you folks with experience with Icon, what were the reasons you pulled the trigger with the Icon over other options? For us, we don't plan to go over 33's. I feel with a couple of more inches of clearance via lift, 33's provide us with plenty of technical capacity. I would like to stay in that realm to maintain handling, road manners, and general driveability. My biggest need in the suspension department is load carrying ability. The stock springs are woefully inadequate for the bumpers, winch, and load we have when kitted out for a trip.

3. Winch line.... The Warn Powerplant is a great piece of kit but man is it a heavy lump! A must do will be to replace the line with rope in an effort to get some weight off the front.

4. Lighting.... I have been going back and forth over the need for some additional lumens. I took the PIAA's off that the previous owner installed since the wiring was a mess and they just bugged me. I want to keep the look as farkle free as possible and felt we aren't doing much stuff at night. That said, descending Pearl Pass towards Aspen in the dark on one of our fall trips proved pretty tough in places and my skid plates gained a few scars that I possibly could have avoided if I could have seen the trail in front of me better at times. Still debating. The Warn bumper is really ugly to my eye. Unfortunately, I don't think anything else on the market can house the Power Plant. I am debating cutting off the upright bar since I don't think it adds much protection since it doesn't cover the corners of the car anyway. Maybe shave more weight.

5. Skid plates... I need your recomendations here, the stock stuff seems pretty light duty and I have already dented it up decently.

6. Snorkel and intake..... Ugh, I really didn't want to put a snorkel on the FJC... That said, we are talking of an Alaskan trip and knowing the seriousness of water crossings it might be something I do, though probably not this summer. Intake, the previous owner installed and AFE intake. People seem to rave about them. They supposedly add 10hp and 15 torques but it goes against my stock mantra. I also am not sure how a Safari Snorkel may mount up to one. Anyone have any advice? The intake has an additional front intake slot that allows for more airflow but requires a plug to be installed for water crossings. Of course the plug wasn't with the FJC when I bought it so I need to source the plug to make it safe for getting wet and reduce dust intake. Any advice on whether I should carry on with the AFE or trade it out for a stock unit?

So with those 6, or possibly 5 items, I feel we will be ready to really enjoy the FJC for our travels and feel confident about reliability, capability and versatility of the platform. We are looking at picking up a Sprinter van to use for longer trips where we are focusing on surfing, paddling, biking over overlanding so that will take a bit of strain off of trying to make this thing work for absolutely EVERYTHING that we do.
 

STREGA

Explorer
Kristian, IMHO I think you are headed in the right direction with your FJ.

The Baja Utility Rack is a solid choice, especially if you are planning on using a RTT. I installed mine about a year and a half ago when I purchased a Autohome Airtop and have been very happy with it. Instead of powder coating it I had Baja Rack ship it bare metal and had it Linex locally which has worked out well. Previous rack was a Baja Rack EXP which I was happy with as well but when a killer deal on the Airtop presented itself I needed to change racks.

I've been running OME suspension for 3 years and I'am also happy with them as well. For the $$ they are hard to beat,the Icons ride alot nicer and a few of my FJ buddys use them, some have had problems with them, my OME have been trouble free. I have the medium springs up front, heavies for the rear. Another option to look at is the Iornman coilovers, haven't really heard much on them but they look good, I like the more neutral color opposed to the bright yellow OME. Another thing to get when you do the lift is to replace the upper control arms to keep the camber correct. I went with the Light Racing brand, they have adjustability for the camber and a ball joint instead of a uni-ball, I have had zero problems with them.

Warn bumpers? have to say they are not the best looking out there, I would leave the hoop on, you live in deer country and it may save your radiator if you have a deer encounter (they say there are 2 kinds of people who live in Colorado, those who have hit a deer and those who will) which may mean being able to continue on your journey or having to have your truck towed. The weight saved would not be that much.

I recommend Ricochet Aluminum skid plates, the weight savings is considerable. Yes aluminum doesn't slide on rocks as well as steel and they get scratched, gouged and even bent up some, but if you are not rock crawling all the time they work great and the weight saved can be used else where on the FJ and you will use it. Another item to beef up is the rear lower links, the stock ones are easy to bend, I'am running Toyoutfitters. I also replaced the lower link frame mounts with a much stouter mount, I had bent mine pretty bad and putting on the bolt on armour was not going to cure the problem, it was kinda like putting a bandaid on a broken arm. The lower link mount is the achilles heel on the FJ.

A snorkle won't help you much on water crossing, you will kill the electrics well before you suck water through the intake. On the other hand your air filter will stay cleaner longer which is worth considering. I think the last thing I add to the FJ is a snorkle then she is done. :snorkel:
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Kristian, IMHO I think you are headed in the right direction with your FJ.

The Baja Utility Rack is a solid choice, especially if you are planning on using a RTT. I installed mine about a year and a half ago when I purchased a Autohome Airtop and have been very happy with it. Instead of powder coating it I had Baja Rack ship it bare metal and had it Linex locally which has worked out well. Previous rack was a Baja Rack EXP which I was happy with as well but when a killer deal on the Airtop presented itself I needed to change racks.

I've been running OME suspension for 3 years and I'am also happy with them as well. For the $$ they are hard to beat,the Icons ride alot nicer and a few of my FJ buddys use them, some have had problems with them, my OME have been trouble free. I have the medium springs up front, heavies for the rear. Another option to look at is the Iornman coilovers, haven't really heard much on them but they look good, I like the more neutral color opposed to the bright yellow OME. Another thing to get when you do the lift is to replace the upper control arms to keep the camber correct. I went with the Light Racing brand, they have adjustability for the camber and a ball joint instead of a uni-ball, I have had zero problems with them.

Warn bumpers? have to say they are not the best looking out there, I would leave the hoop on, you live in deer country and it may save your radiator if you have a deer encounter (they say there are 2 kinds of people who live in Colorado, those who have hit a deer and those who will) which may mean being able to continue on your journey or having to have your truck towed. The weight saved would not be that much.

I recommend Ricochet Aluminum skid plates, the weight savings is considerable. Yes aluminum doesn't slide on rocks as well as steel and they get scratched, gouged and even bent up some, but if you are not rock crawling all the time they work great and the weight saved can be used else where on the FJ and you will use it. Another item to beef up is the rear lower links, the stock ones are easy to bend, I'am running Toyoutfitters. I also replaced the lower link frame mounts with a much stouter mount, I had bent mine pretty bad and putting on the bolt on armour was not going to cure the problem, it was kinda like putting a bandaid on a broken arm. The lower link mount is the achilles heel on the FJ.

A snorkle won't help you much on water crossing, you will kill the electrics well before you suck water through the intake. On the other hand your air filter will stay cleaner longer which is worth considering. I think the last thing I add to the FJ is a snorkle then she is done. :snorkel:

Some great info there, thanks for taking the time to post all of that. Regarding your line xing of the Baja Rack, what made you do this? Is the factory finish from Baja Rack scuff prone?

Regarding the bumper, yeah that upright portion likely would protect the radiator, good point. I have always had bull bars on my rigs since being from Michigan's UP and most of the places I travel there is a high incident of animal/car encounters. Really wish the Warn went all the way out to the sides like a bull bar. My biggest gripe about it is the lack of recovery points. The Warn rear bumper seems decent. Hangs out a bit, seems very heavy but has two stout recovery points and a receiver integrated. Again, looks terrible to my eye, but I am a function over form guy, but still do enjoy stuff that looks good.

I haven't had any damage to my lower links yet but that is good info as well. How did your's suffer damage?

My air filter has been getting pretty caked with dust but its mostly due to missing cover on the AFE intake. Without the cover the engine inhales better, improves power and economy, but obviously this is more for street. Offroad conditions require the plug to reduce dust intake. I would assume the stock airbox would be decent with dust intake due to the location of the inlet. Yeah, a snorkel isn't required but is a huge piece of mind. I have had my 80 series cruiser over the hood several times and I know it would have been some major water intake issues without. That said, I don't go out of my way to submerge my vehicles. I have had some long term issues from water in the 80, primarily corrosion on some of my electronics for acessories. For the FJC, I likely won't push it as hard as I have my Land Cruiser, but mapping out some of the tracks we would like to do, I would like the extra piece of mind if things get deeper than planned and things go bad. It will probably be the last thing we do, IF I decide to do it I guess.
 

STREGA

Explorer
Some great info there, thanks for taking the time to post all of that. Regarding your line xing of the Baja Rack, what made you do this? Is the factory finish from Baja Rack scuff prone?

Regarding the bumper, yeah that upright portion likely would protect the radiator, good point. I have always had bull bars on my rigs since being from Michigan's UP and most of the places I travel there is a high incident of animal/car encounters. Really wish the Warn went all the way out to the sides like a bull bar. My biggest gripe about it is the lack of recovery points. The Warn rear bumper seems decent. Hangs out a bit, seems very heavy but has two stout recovery points and a receiver integrated. Again, looks terrible to my eye, but I am a function over form guy, but still do enjoy stuff that looks good.

I haven't had any damage to my lower links yet but that is good info as well. How did your's suffer damage?

My air filter has been getting pretty caked with dust but its mostly due to missing cover on the AFE intake. Without the cover the engine inhales better, improves power and economy, but obviously this is more for street. Offroad conditions require the plug to reduce dust intake. I would assume the stock airbox would be decent with dust intake due to the location of the inlet. Yeah, a snorkel isn't required but is a huge piece of mind. I have had my 80 series cruiser over the hood several times and I know it would have been some major water intake issues without. That said, I don't go out of my way to submerge my vehicles. I have had some long term issues from water in the 80, primarily corrosion on some of my electronics for acessories. For the FJC, I likely won't push it as hard as I have my Land Cruiser, but mapping out some of the tracks we would like to do, I would like the extra piece of mind if things get deeper than planned and things go bad. It will probably be the last thing we do, IF I decide to do it I guess.


I Linex the rack for a couple of reasons. Since I was going to mount a fibreglass shelled RTT on it my thinking was that a Linex surface might be a little more kinder to it and the original Bajarack that I had did show some fading and scratches on it so I decided to see how well Linex'ing would work. Was it really needed?, no but I'am glad I did it anyway and 1 1/2 years later it still looks good and it was worth the extra effort and cost to me.

I know quite a few people here in Colorado who have totaled their vehicles hitting deer. The one that really sticks out in my brain is a good buddy of mine that had started a 2 week vacation that he had worked for all year hits a deer on the first day of said vacation, totals his truck and his vacation is over. If he would of had a bumper with a bull bar on it instead of the stock & mostly plastic one he would more than likely been able to drive away from that deer encounter.

I damaged my lower link mounts for a couple of reasons. First would be driver error, especially when I first started to offroad the FJ, my lack of experience meant that I did not always choose the best line through rough/technical challenges and the lower link mounts paid the price. Second reason is that the mounts are close to the ground and are also very light duty (as are the links themselves, Toyota made a compromise to save weight vs. durability) and bend easily when they contact rocks. Mine were damaged enough that I decided to replace them with ones made by Roughstuff instead of straightening and bolting on armour. They are at least 3 times the thickness of the stock mounts and also have a sort of a skid plate that connects the 2 sides together which makes them very stout. I don't hit the mounts nearly as much as I use to, but it still happens from time to time, other than some scratched paint I don't have to worry about them anymore. I have looked at a lot of FJ's that get used offroad and just about all of them have some damage on the mount, some were way worse than mine.

The Trail Team and off-road packaged FJ's come with the cyclone air intake system which helps to keep the filter cleaner longer. That said, the intake is still located at the front passenger side wheel well area which is not really ideal. A snorkle would remedy that not so great design and extend the filter life by quite a bit, is it worth the $$ cost? you could replace the filter a lot more often and still be ahead in the $$ game but the coolness factor of a snorkle is priceless... I myself try to stay away from deep water crossings even though I'am a Pieces I'am not that fond of water. :sombrero:
 

TJDIV

Adventurer
Dude... the only thing this thread needs is............... MORE U.P. :D

Can't wait to see it on the shores of Superior.
 

TJDIV

Adventurer
So I have had several months where I have been completely consumed with work and work travel. I haven't done anything new to the FJC besides put a crack across the entire windshield from a stone chip, d'oh! I have spent a good amount of time pondering the next steps though as spring is closing in. Here is what I have planned for the vehicle....

1. Baja Rack Utility Rack. This will be the next purchase. I am ordering through my good friends and my most trusted supplier, Roam Automotive http://roamauto.com/ Along with the rack I will be picking up the dual fuel can carrier mount. I think I can perfect our packing needs with this rack with our RTT, the ability to haul two fuel cans, and one waterproof box (either Pelican or Zarges) that will hold recovery gear and other essentials I don't need on a daily basis. I know, I know, roof loads are your enemy.... True, but if you are a good driver and have a grasp of how the vehicle handles both on and off road, I truly believe its fine. Its about car control and feel, just like driving a sports car on a track, after so many miles and time behind the wheel, you can feel when you are approaching limits. Since our goal isn't to tackle the most difficult tracks, but to to travel and live self contained for several weeks at a time, off the beaten path, I think the tradeoffs with this stuff on the roof outweigh the cost of either towing a trailer or foregoing a RTT. Do you need a RTT? No, it is a luxury, but with a now 6 month old infant it is worth the compromise to us. Having a place to cook, hangout, and relax out of weather is well worth the trade off. We have every thing we could need with us, so towing a trailer would be a waste, unless we wanted to bring kayaks or a canoe, that is my only consideration to going that route. Otherwise, being compact, and keeping it simple is our mantra.

2. Lift. I have used OME now on several vehicles and have always been pleased with the performance, simplicity, and cost of entry. Again, I want to keep as many OEM parts as possible. The reason I went Toyota again is because I feel like they are some of the best screwed together vehicles built. Why would I want to replace stuff that wasn't necessary? Being able to fix something via parts available at a Toyota dealership while on the road is a plus. This is a common vehicle and most parts are on hand. Thats appealing for travelling abroad but also just locally in North America as well. So here is my question..... I feel I must give due diligence to all options before pulling the trigger. OME obviously has been my first choice but I know alot of folks are very happy running Icon on their FJC's. For you folks with experience with Icon, what were the reasons you pulled the trigger with the Icon over other options? For us, we don't plan to go over 33's. I feel with a couple of more inches of clearance via lift, 33's provide us with plenty of technical capacity. I would like to stay in that realm to maintain handling, road manners, and general driveability. My biggest need in the suspension department is load carrying ability. The stock springs are woefully inadequate for the bumpers, winch, and load we have when kitted out for a trip.

3. Winch line.... The Warn Powerplant is a great piece of kit but man is it a heavy lump! A must do will be to replace the line with rope in an effort to get some weight off the front.

4. Lighting.... I have been going back and forth over the need for some additional lumens. I took the PIAA's off that the previous owner installed since the wiring was a mess and they just bugged me. I want to keep the look as farkle free as possible and felt we aren't doing much stuff at night. That said, descending Pearl Pass towards Aspen in the dark on one of our fall trips proved pretty tough in places and my skid plates gained a few scars that I possibly could have avoided if I could have seen the trail in front of me better at times. Still debating. The Warn bumper is really ugly to my eye. Unfortunately, I don't think anything else on the market can house the Power Plant. I am debating cutting off the upright bar since I don't think it adds much protection since it doesn't cover the corners of the car anyway. Maybe shave more weight.

5. Skid plates... I need your recomendations here, the stock stuff seems pretty light duty and I have already dented it up decently.

6. Snorkel and intake..... Ugh, I really didn't want to put a snorkel on the FJC... That said, we are talking of an Alaskan trip and knowing the seriousness of water crossings it might be something I do, though probably not this summer. Intake, the previous owner installed and AFE intake. People seem to rave about them. They supposedly add 10hp and 15 torques but it goes against my stock mantra. I also am not sure how a Safari Snorkel may mount up to one. Anyone have any advice? The intake has an additional front intake slot that allows for more airflow but requires a plug to be installed for water crossings. Of course the plug wasn't with the FJC when I bought it so I need to source the plug to make it safe for getting wet and reduce dust intake. Any advice on whether I should carry on with the AFE or trade it out for a stock unit?

So with those 6, or possibly 5 items, I feel we will be ready to really enjoy the FJC for our travels and feel confident about reliability, capability and versatility of the platform. We are looking at picking up a Sprinter van to use for longer trips where we are focusing on surfing, paddling, biking over overlanding so that will take a bit of strain off of trying to make this thing work for absolutely EVERYTHING that we do.

Let's chat soon dude, we're getting ready to order some stuff for the FC170 (before the dome show). If we need to dial in other dealer accounts, etc. it may be a good time to do it. :)
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Dude... the only thing this thread needs is............... MORE U.P. :D

Can't wait to see it on the shores of Superior.


You know it! Not getting back this summer was brutal. Might still be snow there by the next time I get back in the summer. Haha I guess that is what snowmobiles are for eh?
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Let's chat soon dude, we're getting ready to order some stuff for the FC170 (before the dome show). If we need to dial in other dealer accounts, etc. it may be a good time to do it. :)

Sweet, will do. Will need to order the rack shortly. Might be able to wait on the lift till I get back that way. Are you guys carrying Kris Casey's winchline?
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
I Linex the rack for a couple of reasons. Since I was going to mount a fibreglass shelled RTT on it my thinking was that a Linex surface might be a little more kinder to it and the original Bajarack that I had did show some fading and scratches on it so I decided to see how well Linex'ing would work. Was it really needed?, no but I'am glad I did it anyway and 1 1/2 years later it still looks good and it was worth the extra effort and cost to me.

I know quite a few people here in Colorado who have totaled their vehicles hitting deer. The one that really sticks out in my brain is a good buddy of mine that had started a 2 week vacation that he had worked for all year hits a deer on the first day of said vacation, totals his truck and his vacation is over. If he would of had a bumper with a bull bar on it instead of the stock & mostly plastic one he would more than likely been able to drive away from that deer encounter.

I damaged my lower link mounts for a couple of reasons. First would be driver error, especially when I first started to offroad the FJ, my lack of experience meant that I did not always choose the best line through rough/technical challenges and the lower link mounts paid the price. Second reason is that the mounts are close to the ground and are also very light duty (as are the links themselves, Toyota made a compromise to save weight vs. durability) and bend easily when they contact rocks. Mine were damaged enough that I decided to replace them with ones made by Roughstuff instead of straightening and bolting on armour. They are at least 3 times the thickness of the stock mounts and also have a sort of a skid plate that connects the 2 sides together which makes them very stout. I don't hit the mounts nearly as much as I use to, but it still happens from time to time, other than some scratched paint I don't have to worry about them anymore. I have looked at a lot of FJ's that get used offroad and just about all of them have some damage on the mount, some were way worse than mine.

The Trail Team and off-road packaged FJ's come with the cyclone air intake system which helps to keep the filter cleaner longer. That said, the intake is still located at the front passenger side wheel well area which is not really ideal. A snorkle would remedy that not so great design and extend the filter life by quite a bit, is it worth the $$ cost? you could replace the filter a lot more often and still be ahead in the $$ game but the coolness factor of a snorkle is priceless... I myself try to stay away from deep water crossings even though I'am a Pieces I'am not that fond of water. :sombrero:

Good info. I will have to get underneath the rig and inspect the mounts. I hadn't noticed any damage to the mounts or the control arms yet. Only thing I have really ground on rock so far are the sliders, the rear bumper and the front skid plate. Thanks for the I tell. Gives me stuff to ponder.
 

tjtoytech

New member
Winch line

Sweet, will do. Will need to order the rack shortly. Might be able to wait on the lift till I get back that way. Are you guys carrying Kris Casey's winchline?

We currently use mostly the Rough Country synthetic winch line (I like it's rating at 16,000#), but for a bit more $ and less weight rating (10,000#) we've sold some of the Warn Spydura line to those with brand preference. Arguably, the brand name means very little to me these days!

I would be very interested in checking out Kris's line and seeing what he has to offer. I knew he was into splicing, but haven't stumbled on any of his products.
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
This winter has been a great one snow-wise here in Colorado. While the FJC has been relegated to my DD for the season, I thought I would share my impressions of it in the snow. I feel pretty qualified to evaluate a vehicle based on winter conditions since I grew up driving in snow in a region where roads are primarily snow packed for the majority of a winter and have driven through some of the worst imaginable winter driving conditions due to where I live, travel, and my occupation in the ski industry.

What makes for a good winter driver? Predictable handling is a major one. Wheelbase determines a trucks stability and predictability. The longer the wheelbase, the slower the rear end steps out, the shorter it is, the quicker. A TJ Wrangler has a fairly twitchy personality in snow driving since it rotates so quickly when the rear end looses traction, over say a Land Cruiser wagon.

Another important factor is the vehicle's ability to put down traction while both traveling straight and turning. Fulltime 4wd and AWD systems make for a more seamless application of torque to the wheels when not going straight. The nature of a 4wd vehicles front and rear axles binding as they turn can cause a traditional 4wd to break traction, usually at the front end in tight turning situations.

Some other minor factors come into play as well which I will discuss along with my observations of the FJC.


A night's snow in Minturn.

First off, to clarify, my FJC is part time 4wd since it is an auto tranny. The manual tranny has a fulltime 4wd system and I have not had time behind the wheel of that to make any judgements. The auto was preferred for me since it gets better economy on the highway, primarily due to running in 2wd versus AWD. It also allows me to cheat the gearing a bit in technical offroad situations and really creep slowly when needed.

Overall I would rate the FJC as OK in snow driving conditions. Here is why. First off, the big thing that I greatly dislike is TRAC. It is the standard operating traction control that is default when the vehicle is in 2wd. It can't be switched off. It is not to be confused with ATRAC which is the system that can be engaged in 4wd high and low which is a fairly good traction control system in situations where you may loose tire contact on an axle. TRAC is intruding, abrupt, and entirely terrible. When it detects rear wheel slip, abruptly cuts engine power while using the ABS to try to keep the car from sliding. ATRAC doesn't cut engine power, just uses ABS to help simulate a locker. Why I hate it is that it takes the fun out of driving in 2wd, if you know what I mean and it makes the vehicle practically useless in 2wd in snow. Trying to back out of my driveway from a stop I can't get the vehicle moving because it will cut throttle if the tires slip at all. I find this incredibly frustrating and unnecessary. When you do try to get the vehicle to slide the rear end with throttle while moving it shuts down all the fun quickly but abruptly cutting the power and braking, which makes for a rather jerky sensation. I personally can't stand electronic nannies that are trying to keep me safe when in fact they affect the handling and performance of the vehicle itself. It would be great for it to be defeatable.

In 4wd the truck performs pretty well. Even though it shows VSC as OFF on the dash, when you mash the throttle and say try to crank some donuts, you can feel traction control trying to step in. It is less invasive in 4wd and you can actually slide the vehicle around and rotate it, but it does make it a touch harder. Being the consummate rally enthusiast I am, I want to be in full control of the vehicle's attitude with just the steering wheel, throttle, and brakes. Computers... no thanks. I have messed around with ATRAC on snow and ice in low speed situations and while I was impressed in wet and dry summer conditions with it, it isn't as effective in low friction situations. Engaging the rear locker is more effective. This really became evident when I had to tow a 15 passenger van with a trailer out of snow on the streets of Aspen and once in Winter Park during some heavy snow. ATRAC got me no where, but with the rear diff lock engaged I was able to pull the vans out onto the street.

One of the biggest contributors to traction in the snow is tire selection. For this vehicle I tried the Good Year Duratracs for the first time. The siped lugs looked to be alot more enticing in the snow than my alternative, the BFG AT. I have spent alot of time with BFG's in the snow, they aren't all that great. I find the Duratracs to be much better in snow and ice along with being better in sloppy mud in the summer than the BFG AT's. So I am happy. It seems that the wear rate is a bit faster on the Good Years though, so it comes as a tradeoff.

The FJC's wheelbase of 105" is a bit on the short side. While it makes for great maneuverability and the ability to tackle tougher obstacles with less lift and tire size, it does make it a touch less stable than say an 80 series Land Cruiser that sports 111" of wheelbase. I think an 80 series (or 100 series for that matter) is a much more seamless vehicle in the snow due to its great fulltime 4wd system. You can still steer it with throttle, drift it, etc, but it puts the power down nicely and you don't have to worry about shifting to 4wd to prevent the vehicle from trying to swap ends. I find myself using 4wd more than I normally would like with the FJC just because I don't trust the TRAC system on the highway since it isn't intuitive to the driver in the way it tries to correct a slide where I feel I could easily steer out of something in a normal vehicle, the FJC doesn't allow me to do that.

Other snow considerations, the back door and roof is a terrible design in snow environments. I often forget to clean the snow off the top of the door and roof, and even if I do, I get a large deposit of snow into the rear compartment when I open it. Also, the rear window has these black plugs that are the fasteners that are attached to the outside of the glass. When scraping the rear window I hit them hard all the time, I am afraid I am going to break one off.

The three wipers on the front windshield..... not so awesome. It is hard to reach the center wiper and clean it when it freezes up or gets covered in slush. With a normal vehicle with 2 wipers it is easy to reach out and pull up a wiper for a slap on the windshield to clean it for visibility's sake while driving. Its hard to reach the wipers for that in the FJC, and when you do, you only help the matter for 1/3 of the windshield versus 1/2 on a normal vehicle.

The recessed headlights tend to capture snow when driving in heavy snow. It has caused me to have to pull off and clean them so I could see on a couple of occasions.

This is the shortest 4wd vehicle I have owned. So far it has prevented me from sleeping in the back, being able to haul mountainbikes inside without removing the seat post and front wheel, and is a bit tough with skis inside. My longer skis in the 200cm range really stick up in between the front seats. Not a deal breaker, but there are some benefits of a longer rear compartment.

I didn't realize how used to the FJC's outward vision I had become till I spent a week in a Sprinter. It was a breath of fresh air. Getting back into the FJC I was again reminded of the narrow range of viewing you have from the inside. Funny how used to, and comfortable you get with certain things after awhile.

Good stuff, the vehicle feels very safe and secure and does inspire confidence. It still feels bank vault tight with no squeaks or rattles. The HVAC system is excellent and it gets warm fast. I never have any concerns with the vehicle starting in the cold, fires right up with no complaints no matter how far below zero it is. I do have a block heater I use though to help reduce start up wear in the really cold weather. I have to think having a timing chain is a good thing, super cold weather has to speed up timing belt wear I would imagine.

The color silver is the best. Driving in wet/dirty roads constantly I do enjoy the fact that silver stays the cleanest looking at least as long, if not longer than white and it just looks so much better to me.


An early winter outing near Red Cliff.


About to set off on some backcountry ski fun.


Vail Pass and Berthoud Pass were closed, I took the shortcut and backway on the Trough Road coming back from Winter Park one day. This is where the original Red Dawn was filmed. The route follows the Colorado River from Kremmling to State Bridge.




A couple of shots from Camp Hale, the sight of the 10th Mountain Division.

Next on the agenda, we are ordering up the Baja Rack shortly. With some free time in my schedule starting to approach, we are hoping to get into southern UT a bit this spring to take a break from the snow. If anyone is looking to get any Baja Rack stuff, there is a pretty big order going in shortly from the guys at Roam which will provide for a nice price break. Let me know, or perhaps TJ and chime in. I going to do the utility rack, mount the RTT on the back, get the dual fuel can holder and still have room for one storage box to help making our packing for long trips doable. I know, roof load is the devil but the compromise for us is worth it. I will update this again on the next stage. Can't wait to get back on the road! Our little guy is over 7 months old now and its going to be really fun travelling with him.
 

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