The Fun Hog Build Thread: 2007 Chevy Express AWD

[On Belay]

Insulating the Floor

Spent the last two weekends working on the floor of the van.

Started out by pulling out the factory rubber mat and trim pieces. I then thoroughly cleaned out the accumulated dirt and sand from the van's pat life as a construction vehicle. No rust at all underneath the factory mats, loving the rust free Colorado vehicle after growing up in the rust belt.



I then installed sound deadner tiles between the ridges of the floor. I used basically the same method as the walls an ceiling.








For insulation I used FrostKing Duct Insulation. This is a self adhesive foil backed foam rated at R-3 that is sold in 15ft rolls at Home Depot. The floor took four rolls. I used a roller to mold the Frost King into the ridges and valleys of the van's sheet metal then sealed the seams with foil tape.

 

[On Belay]

Floor Panels

Next I used masking paper to make a set of paper templates fit to the contours of the vans floor. From the paper templates I created cardboard templates from bike boxes for each floor panels and test fit everything in the van. I then traced out the shapes onto 3/4" plywood and cut out each panel. After a bit of trimming everything fits very snugly.






That's where I sit currently. To finish out the floor I'm planning to pull the plywood panels back out and coat with bedliner. I'll also likely glue down a rubber mat on the front panel as it won't be covered by cabinents. I'll bolt each panel doen to rivnuts in the vans floor using countersunk stanless bolts. Also considering using knockdown fastners (cam and dowel) beteen the panels to keep everything aligned and flush, though the fit is snug enough that may not be necessary.

 

[On Belay]

Progress has been a bit slow of late. I had to move unexpectedly after my landlord sold the house I was renting (nature of renting in the front range) and I've been getting out and enjoying the van. I've made some progress however.

I got the propane tank mounted to the van (propane system is not finished yet however).

Pilot hole for propane tank bolt.

Mocking propane tank into place.

Had to notch the sheet metal to clear the know to turn propane on and off. Will have to expand this to clear the regulator as well.

Final install of tank.

 

[On Belay]

Finished insulating the cabin.

Removing the front seats.

Empty cabin, with plenty of left over construction dirt.

Installing the Noico Sound Deadner on the cabin floor, I opted for close to 100% coverage to mute engine noise and keep the cabin nice and quiet. I also changed out the spark plugs and wires for new AC Delco parts while the engine cover was off and seats were removed (trust me pick up a set of these for the front plugs, it's next to impossible to remove the boots without them).

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Next came the thermal insulation.

 

[On Belay]

Updated Electronics

While the van was interior was already torn apart from insulating and installing spark plugs I pulled off the dash and updated some of the electronics.

With the cargo sides (blind spots) backing up the van was still a bit of a chore. I found a relatively inexpensive back up camera that integrates into the third brake light on ebay.

Before:

Factory Brake Light Removed:

New Camera/Brakelight Combo:

I opted to reroute the facotry wiring harness and camera wires through the channels in the vans sheet metal. THis conceals and protects the wiring and gets it out of the way of future paneling and cabinets. THreading the wiring and cutting through the two bulkheads above the rear doors was a bit of a chore and the whole process was significantly more of a PITA than expected.

Final Result:

The 90 Degree adaptor and hole saw I used to cut through the bulkheads:

Had to slightly enhance the factory openings to make the apapter work.

New Electronic Goodies:

I also opted to install cruise control while the dash was off. The vans come with all the wiring in place you just need to order the factory cruise control equipped lever and plug it in to the factory harness.

Original Lever:

Side By Side:

Plug In Here:

Cruise Control Installed:

I don't need a crazy stereo system but something a bit nicer than the basic base level stock stuff was sorely needed. I went with a Pioneer touchscreen head unit with bluetooth and Pioneer speakers.

Factory Radio:

Radio Removed:

I had to trim the factory heatshield just a bit to fit the aftermarket stereo:

Wiring The Stereo:

Final Install:

Door Panel Off:

New Speaker:

More Sound Deadner:

In the future I'm planning to install an LED light bar and reverse lights on the future roof rack. While the dash was off I installed the switches. I opted to modify the box for the factory light switches to accomidate. All in all it integrates well and looks factory IMO.

Unmodified Box:

Back removed and holes drilled:

Switches Installed:

Wiring for Switches:

Installed in Dash:

 

[bdog1]

Great write up. Thx for sharing. You adding a swivel to the pass seat?


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[On Belay]

Great write up. Thx for sharing. You adding a swivel to the pass seat?


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Thanks! I've actually already installed one of the DiscountVanTruck swivels on the passenger seat (really the only option for the Express), I didn't take many photos of the install however. The functionality of the swivel is great, it really opens up otherwise wasted spaceand creates anice living area. I'm a fan.

 

[bdog1]

Ah. Agreed. I'm starting over on an AWD express soon. Sold the E350


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[Ns1]

this build thread is amazing.

 

[On Belay]

Lots of templates...

I've really grown to appreciate the modular storage offered by the MOLLE system used on the seat covers. It's a great way to stow small items that are otherwise rolling around or cluttering drawers and utilize otherwise wasted space. With that in mind I had the idea to integrate Molle panels into my door panels for added storage.

What precipitated was a day and half of template making and playing around in Google Sketchup (which I've taught myself how to use for this project). After hours of designing and redesigning I have more or less finalized designs and am looking into local options for laser / water jet cutting.

I'm still debating material. Leaning towards aluminum sheet metal in a thin enough gauge that it can somewhat conform to the curves of the doors, but haven't ruled out steel or plastic sheet. I initially just traced the factory plastic panels but ultimately redesigned to follow the contours of the recessed portion of the doors. I did not add holes for mounting hardware as I felt that was easier to figure out as I was mounting the panels.

For the part of the slider panel that will actually slide out (i.e.) can't hold pouches I'm planning to put on a self adhesive dr erase board materials. I'd originally planned a hard dry erase board with a US map on the backside, but I'm not sure how well it would conform to the door.

 

[On Belay]

Roof Rack Ideas...

I would really like a full length roof rack for the van but don't have $1500-$2000 in the budget to purchase one of the pre-made options and most don't actually cover the full roof-line. Also, unlike so many of the other users on here, welding is unfortunately not in my skillset. I've spent months considering different rack designs and finally come up with what should be a workable solution.

My key design features were:

-Lightweight
-Ability to integrate a solar panel
-Fit around MaxxFan
-Able to hold cargobox
-Somewhat stealthy
-Reasonable price

The design I've currently settled on will utilize the following:

-80/20 Extruded Aluminum Cross Bars: I'm looking to use 1020 Series (1" x 2"). These are available cut to length and with end taps for 1/4" Bolts. (https://8020.net/shop/1020-s-black-fb.html)
-Gamiviti Gutter Mount Feet: Seem to be the one of the more solidly built set of gutter feet Smittybilt and others make them as well. Since Gamiviti is a smaller operation I may see about the feasibility of making a set with two sets of mounting holes (1" apart) for hitting both sets of slots in the 80/20 crossbars. (http://www.gamiviti.com/rain-gutter-towers)
-For the side pieces I'm looking at using .5" x 2" aluminum bar stock. I can drill and countersink holes for 1/4" Stainless bolts and then through bolt to the tapped crossbar ends. This will give me 1/2" of material above and below each crossbar and should hide the solar panel from view (from the side).

This setup should allow me to drop a 180 Watt Grape Solar panel between the front two crossbars. The next two crossbars are spaced to fit the Maxxfan. I will likely put some dimple-died alumnum plate on either side of the Maxxfan for a place to strap down firewood and other items I don;t want in the van itself (may also splurge on one of these water tanks: https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/us/front-runner-45l-water-tank-with-mounting-system.html). Behind that is 81" of rack space, perfect for a Yakima Skybox 16. I'll also be mounting an awning. I should also have space left on the side of the cargo box for a bike rack/kayak rack/surf board depending on the adventure.

I'm still working on a front fairing with space for an LED light bar and potentially a roller at the rear (similar to those on raft trailers) for smooth loading of larger bulkier items. Also debating the best way to make clean radius cuts in the ends of the aluminum bar, I may just see if the laser cutting shop can make them for me.

 

[On Belay]

Other Projects...

I'm also planning on trying to complete the following projects yet this summer:

-Strip and Paint the Van: The rattle can job was good for a quick repair for the peeling Chevy paint and to make the van somewhat presentable in the meantime but it's not a perfect match and the rest of the factory paint is crap. All things considered I should have just gone full bore the first time. I'm planning to strip all the plastic trim and sand down the factory white. I have access to compressor and am planning to spray desert tan Raptor Liner on the majority of the vehicle and then use black Raptor Liner for the rockers and bumpers (as well as interior cabinets once they're built). When putting the vehicle back together I'm planning to complete the following smaller projects: replace dented rear bumper skin, popout rear windows, LED headlights, replace cracked grill emblem, install Aluminess spare tire swing out*.

*Has anyone built a battery tray to fit under the van in the stock spare tire location?

-Install Lift: I basically just need to find someone who will let me borrow a lift for this. I have a Traxda Lift Kit, Skyjacker Shocks, Hellwig Rear Sway Bar, Moog Tie Rod Ends, Front Sway Bar End Links and Bushings, and Power Stop Brake Kit all waiting to be installed. I'm currently keeping and eye on Craigslist for someone parting out a Suburban for a set of rear leafs (is it worth it to drop $300-$400 on new?). Any other items I should consider replacing while I'm at it?

-Finish Interior Walls/Headliner: I had initially planned to cedar (or local beetle kill) tongue and groove. I'm somewhat rethinking that due the complex curves. I will still probably use T&G for the ceiling but may end up gluing a layer of Reflectix to the Polyiso followed by Hull-Liner for the walls. I'll also put in most of the wiring prior to wall installation.

That will leave building cabinets, installing stove and Propex, and finishing the electrical system for the fall. I'm hoping to be able to hit the road in the spring! Battling some project fatigue at the moment and the to do list is feeling rather daunting, but I've at least somewhat solidified my plans for each stage.

 

[Backcountry Pursuit]

You have been keeping an eye on CL for a used full size roof/ladder rack, right? You plan looks awesome with the 80/20, but I did just come across a full size rack for $250 used on CL. Just picked it today from powder coat and I'm in it less than $500. All smiles for me today.

 

[On Belay]

Paint Color Selection...

I've decided to bite the bullet and paint the van. I had the dreaded Chevy peeling paint and used rattle cans to touch it up on the hood and roof. I've never been totally happy with the results and have had a few more problem areas pop up. It's time to get rid of the poor quality factory paint.

I've decided to paint the van with tintable UPOL Raptor Liner. It seems to get great reviews in other forums. Is UV stable and can be tinted any color you like. My background is in Toyota's and I'm a big fan of the Quicksand (desert tan) color. I picked up a quart of color sans binders today. I'm planning to spray the entire van with the tan then spray the rockers with an additional coat or two of black.

Before I take on the paint though I found a lift I can use and I also splurged on some air tools. I'm hoping to install the Traxda Lift Kit, Skyjacker Shocks, Hellwig Rear Sway Bar, Powerstop Brake Kit, New Front Sway Bar Bushings and End Links. As well as some replacement inner and outer tie rod ends this weekend.

Once the lift is installed I can get a better grasp on how much metal (if any fingers crossed) needs to be trimmed off of the front fenders and slider door to eliminate rubbing on the tires. Then I'll strip all of the plastic trim and weatherstripping, cut out the rocker panel for the propane regulator, cut the roof for the Maxxfan, remove the fixed glass rear windows (still trying to locate a set of pop-outs), sand down the factory paint, mask and prep, then throw the van on jack stands and spray it.

Still a lot to work on but I'm hoping by the end of the month the exterior and mechanical projects will be largely wrapped up and I can start focusing on the interior build out.

 

[macexpress]

Sounds like a busy month! I'm interested to see how yours looks after it's sprayed. My paint is good but I keep toying with the idea of doing the bottom 6-12" in grey or tan for rock protection.