The Memorial F150 Craptor.
- Thread starter dbhost
- Start date
So serious decision making to be done. Went out and measured, again, and again. The height of the wheel wells. I have 9" from floor to top of wheel wells.
My bed frame is 2x2 lumber (nominal) horizontally and 2x3 verticals with 1/2" plywood decking.
So 2x2 is effectively 1.5"
My current COMBINED height is 13" for verticals and horizontals, and 13.5" if you include the decking.
This leaves me with a MAXIMUM I can cut the veritcals down of 2.5" before I hit the wheel wells and cause myself clearance issues there.
BUT, if I cut down 2.5" I am 1" over the minimum height I need for the AquaTainers.
I have tested, the AquaTainers DO fit in the back seat footwells nicely, AND fill the gap the dog would tend to vall into a LOT...
The back seat was intended for dog, Ensuite tent (which can fit just about anywhere away from the Dog), and a couple of longer items that can easily be stowed in the roof bag. So if I cut down 2.5", I MUST move the water containers, OR switch to different water containers, again... Don't want to do that... BUT it WILL give me 1.5" additional headroom that I would not have otherwise had considering the Bedrug and headliner...
If it sounds like I am talking out loud here trying to justify going one way or another here, you are very observant. I do NOT want to have the bed too low to keep my knees at too sharp an angle to be comfortable to use, but I also do not want to crane my neck to be able to sit up in bed...
You would think a hi top camper shell with a bed frame well below the truck bed rails would do that. Not quite....
Likewise, part of me wants to make a template for the contour of the front of the truck bed drivers side and just fab up some foamie side panels so I can have thinner material, and have the electrical box tighter up against the front wall of the truck bed. Don't want that stuff in the cab due to all the wires that would end up having to go back to the truck bed. The way I am setting up the only wires needed to go into the cab is a hot and a ground for the fridge power...
I have the bed platform with the uprights marked, their take off positions marked and the assembly, disassembled and ready to go to the saw... I just need to decide, lower it to the max, or keep it more reasonable so I can stow my water in there... Hard decision...
My bed frame is 2x2 lumber (nominal) horizontally and 2x3 verticals with 1/2" plywood decking.
So 2x2 is effectively 1.5"
My current COMBINED height is 13" for verticals and horizontals, and 13.5" if you include the decking.
This leaves me with a MAXIMUM I can cut the veritcals down of 2.5" before I hit the wheel wells and cause myself clearance issues there.
BUT, if I cut down 2.5" I am 1" over the minimum height I need for the AquaTainers.
I have tested, the AquaTainers DO fit in the back seat footwells nicely, AND fill the gap the dog would tend to vall into a LOT...
The back seat was intended for dog, Ensuite tent (which can fit just about anywhere away from the Dog), and a couple of longer items that can easily be stowed in the roof bag. So if I cut down 2.5", I MUST move the water containers, OR switch to different water containers, again... Don't want to do that... BUT it WILL give me 1.5" additional headroom that I would not have otherwise had considering the Bedrug and headliner...
If it sounds like I am talking out loud here trying to justify going one way or another here, you are very observant. I do NOT want to have the bed too low to keep my knees at too sharp an angle to be comfortable to use, but I also do not want to crane my neck to be able to sit up in bed...
You would think a hi top camper shell with a bed frame well below the truck bed rails would do that. Not quite....
Likewise, part of me wants to make a template for the contour of the front of the truck bed drivers side and just fab up some foamie side panels so I can have thinner material, and have the electrical box tighter up against the front wall of the truck bed. Don't want that stuff in the cab due to all the wires that would end up having to go back to the truck bed. The way I am setting up the only wires needed to go into the cab is a hot and a ground for the fridge power...
I have the bed platform with the uprights marked, their take off positions marked and the assembly, disassembled and ready to go to the saw... I just need to decide, lower it to the max, or keep it more reasonable so I can stow my water in there... Hard decision...
Mekcanix
Camper
So if you put the water in the cab, that puts it kinda in a better location weight wise, doesn't it? build a simple deck over top and doggo has his own castle. and if head room is a issue can you build your bed frame to hug the wheel well and use the hump as a partial load bearing surface for the bed? Just trying to wrap my noggin around your challenges and try to be of some use 
So if you put the water in the cab, that puts it kinda in a better location weight wise, doesn't it? build a simple deck over top and doggo has his own castle. and if head room is a issue can you build your bed frame to hug the wheel well and use the hump as a partial load bearing surface for the bed? Just trying to wrap my noggin around your challenges and try to be of some use
Well, the wheel well slopes, so load bearing isn't likely to happen... But yeah I was thinking AquaTainers in the cab, and 1/2" ply deck with his dog bed on top for cushion. The passenger side back seat is where the fridge is slated to be installed. sideways so I can access it with the side door open. I have a soft side lunch cooler I will use for "road snacks" so not worried about accessing from inside the cab while driving. The footwell in the front passenger seat will hold 2 5 gallon buckets with Gamma Seal lids that act as my pantry and I can hold canned and dry food for probably 2 weeks aside from bread in there...
I do agree on the weight issue. 21 gallons fresh water is 168lbs, so basically a passenger in the back seat.
If I only cut down 1.5" I actually can't really use the space above the wheel well anyway, for anything aside from maybe handles for campfire forks and my pie iron.
I might as well go ahead and get it done and go the full 2.5" down and give myself the headroom I need.
Okay license plate bracket arrived. Pulled the winch, pulled the fairlead, installed the bracket, installed the fairlead, installed the winch, got 3 of the 4 screws holding the license plate to the old bracket off, 4th one boogered the allen head, had to cut it off with my oscillating multi tool. Got the plate installed. LEOs should be happy now.
Engine reman company has sent shipment info to the shop, so working on getting a wrecker over here. Had to hurry to get the license plate holder on the front before it went into the shop...
Wiring harness for the 12V box is done. I have 2 10ga positives feeding into the loom due to the available fuse holders, the rest of the harness is 14 ga. I was able to double up the grounds into a single ring terminal, but the positives, not so lucky... Good thing the battery bolts are somewhat longish... Need to get the wiring for the solar sorted out. Which pin on the SAE coming FROM the panel is postive which is negative. Hopefully the one shielded is positive but you never know...
Got the start battery, that I bought 3 weeks ago because I finally found one at Walmart, charged up. Kind of surprising that either this batter discharged that far while not connected, OR that Walmart did not have the thing fully charged to begin with. The date code on the battery is 9/22 so it isn't like it is that old...
Engine reman company has sent shipment info to the shop, so working on getting a wrecker over here. Had to hurry to get the license plate holder on the front before it went into the shop...
Wiring harness for the 12V box is done. I have 2 10ga positives feeding into the loom due to the available fuse holders, the rest of the harness is 14 ga. I was able to double up the grounds into a single ring terminal, but the positives, not so lucky... Good thing the battery bolts are somewhat longish... Need to get the wiring for the solar sorted out. Which pin on the SAE coming FROM the panel is postive which is negative. Hopefully the one shielded is positive but you never know...
Got the start battery, that I bought 3 weeks ago because I finally found one at Walmart, charged up. Kind of surprising that either this batter discharged that far while not connected, OR that Walmart did not have the thing fully charged to begin with. The date code on the battery is 9/22 so it isn't like it is that old...
I just watched the wrecker take the truck off for its heart transplant.
The plan is by the time I get it back it should have a new engine everything checked over new belts hoses that sort of thing, The suicide doors are getting fixed and a full inspection so I can go directly to the tax office and register it. I Go from there grab the tires and go to the tire shop, get the 33s installed. Then get home with it and the camper get gets stuffed in the back.
The plan is by the time I get it back it should have a new engine everything checked over new belts hoses that sort of thing, The suicide doors are getting fixed and a full inspection so I can go directly to the tax office and register it. I Go from there grab the tires and go to the tire shop, get the 33s installed. Then get home with it and the camper get gets stuffed in the back.
For anyone that is following this. I did test fit the Aquatainers in the rear seat footwell, and they fit great, and offer support for a plywood base for a doggie bed, so we have a multiple win situation here.
Meaning I now have, should the dog come with me, if not I have plenty of added storage space but I digress... I no longer need to stress it, did a LOT of other things, so cut down isn't until tomorrow as I was busy readying the truck for getting towed, but yes, 2.5" down the uprights are going to go... So that means I am maximizing the headroom I have after basically upholstering the iside of a pickup bed and camper shell. Gaining a hair over 2" of usable headroom. So we are good to go there.
So list of things to do that I am not having the heavy line mechanic do...
Meaning I now have, should the dog come with me, if not I have plenty of added storage space but I digress... I no longer need to stress it, did a LOT of other things, so cut down isn't until tomorrow as I was busy readying the truck for getting towed, but yes, 2.5" down the uprights are going to go... So that means I am maximizing the headroom I have after basically upholstering the iside of a pickup bed and camper shell. Gaining a hair over 2" of usable headroom. So we are good to go there.
So list of things to do that I am not having the heavy line mechanic do...
- Get tires swapped and balanced.
- Re-register the truck.
- Finish up the bed platform, install sides and all needed hinges. This should be ready for drop in.
- Finish up electrical compartment, need hinges for this...
- Secure front of bed pass through. The plastic tabs failed years ago. Going to use adhesive silicone.
- Wire up for DC to DC charger and figure out how to wire the solar rig.
- Install bedrug.
- Attach electrical compartment to bed. entire thing should drop in as one unit. (Need to figure out a way to lock it down to the truck bed to keep it secure in case of an accident).
- Install rat fur carpet headliner.
- Install Velcro strips for and make reflectix covers for windows. Make breezy breathable curtains using same velcro for warmer weather. Just for privacy.
- Install camper cabinetry and electrical.
- Load up and go.
Photos as you go please.
Photos as you go please.
Once the truck comes home, yep. Probably first pic will be when it goes to get new shoes put on.
Maybe once the trim boards get put on, I will snap some pics, before it goes into the truck.
So I cut to size the long size beadboard for the bed.
Gluing and clamping the long sides on, so far so good. Let the glue cure... I MIGHT end up adding some toe nailed pins at each of the brace connections.
Cut the beadboard for the narrow side, waiting for the long side to finish curing in glue. Cut the beadboard for the battery enclosure. These I am gluing to each other via the T&G. Set the gallon glue bottle on top of the beadboard as it had curved over time in my shop.
I will be attaching the narrow sides of both cabinets tomorrow after the glue is set. The long side of the electrical compartment will be set up with plywood instead of bead board. Just doesn't need to be pretty.
I will be heading over to Home Depot this afternoon to get the hinges for the electrical compartment. I will pin in the cross brace for the battery after that... Basically I need to space the battery from the charge controller / DC to DC charger. For now I am going to TRY to make the Atem Power combo unit. I have been told by Atempower that this rig works fine with Lifepo4 using the Lion profile, but several Amazon users / reviewers claim it doesn't work.
Gluing and clamping the long sides on, so far so good. Let the glue cure... I MIGHT end up adding some toe nailed pins at each of the brace connections.
Cut the beadboard for the narrow side, waiting for the long side to finish curing in glue. Cut the beadboard for the battery enclosure. These I am gluing to each other via the T&G. Set the gallon glue bottle on top of the beadboard as it had curved over time in my shop.
I will be attaching the narrow sides of both cabinets tomorrow after the glue is set. The long side of the electrical compartment will be set up with plywood instead of bead board. Just doesn't need to be pretty.
I will be heading over to Home Depot this afternoon to get the hinges for the electrical compartment. I will pin in the cross brace for the battery after that... Basically I need to space the battery from the charge controller / DC to DC charger. For now I am going to TRY to make the Atem Power combo unit. I have been told by Atempower that this rig works fine with Lifepo4 using the Lion profile, but several Amazon users / reviewers claim it doesn't work.
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So the sides of the bed are on, and glue is set. The electrical compartment is in glue drying up now. I have the hinges and the lid cut so once the clamps come off, I will line up and drill the mounting screw holes for the charge controller / dc to dc charger, and start getting the wiring together on what I can there prior to the return of the truck.
Working like a lunatic on getting my gear sorted, all that goes in the truck, and all that stays home. I.E. no need for 4 campfire forks when 1 will do, no need for 2 stainless tumblers when I am one person... etc...
Been sorting through my recovery gear, have it sorted, need to go through bedding etc..
Working like a lunatic on getting my gear sorted, all that goes in the truck, and all that stays home. I.E. no need for 4 campfire forks when 1 will do, no need for 2 stainless tumblers when I am one person... etc...
Been sorting through my recovery gear, have it sorted, need to go through bedding etc..
So side and lid on the electrical compartment are installed. Charge controller / DC to DC converter installed in the compartment and ready to be wired. I doubt the whips that the MFG includes are long enough to make it down the 4" to the battery and across, but we will see. I suspect I need to fab up my own and just label them.
Now I need to measure the holes needed for the 12V ports, switch, and USB charging ports, and then get to drilling. I am installing them in the lid as the devices are going to be set there anyway. CPAP and phone...
Getting anxious to get the truck back, but more interested in it being done RIGHT.
I ran across on FB marketplace, a POSSIBLE slide in pop up camper that may render most of this work moot. It is for an 8' bed truck, but as long as it isn't longer than 8', like so many of the 11' long floor campers I have seen, it will work with my 6.5ft box truck. And the price is reasonable enough.
One thing I do NOT like about it though is the AC in it is on the roof instead of a smaller unit through the back wall... That would mean at least a 13K BTU unit that will require a much larger generator than I own. And I am not aiming for State park campgrounds or anywhere with shore power...
Now I need to measure the holes needed for the 12V ports, switch, and USB charging ports, and then get to drilling. I am installing them in the lid as the devices are going to be set there anyway. CPAP and phone...
Getting anxious to get the truck back, but more interested in it being done RIGHT.
I ran across on FB marketplace, a POSSIBLE slide in pop up camper that may render most of this work moot. It is for an 8' bed truck, but as long as it isn't longer than 8', like so many of the 11' long floor campers I have seen, it will work with my 6.5ft box truck. And the price is reasonable enough.
One thing I do NOT like about it though is the AC in it is on the roof instead of a smaller unit through the back wall... That would mean at least a 13K BTU unit that will require a much larger generator than I own. And I am not aiming for State park campgrounds or anywhere with shore power...
badm0t0rfinger
Raptor Apologist.
Bro I'm super into your build thread but a picture would go a long way.
Truck is in the shop, and I am not shooting pics inside the house. I know it might sound funny but it is something my wife did NOT like so I guess old habits and all... As soon as the truck comes back, the camera comes out... Running out of daylight. I might be able to drag the cabinets outside and snap pics in the yard tomorrow...