The other wonder mechanical genius my 88 Trooper
- Thread starter PPCLI_Jim
- Start date
justcuz
Explorer
I just looked at it again. I would keep the heater line going out of the back of the manifold and the thermostat to the front of the manifold. I would remove the two metal fittings and hose lines up to the throttle body and plug them off with similar plugs to what is in there.
The rest I would follow his instructions. You being in cold country may benefit from a little warmer air into the intake.
If you get a chance take a peek at the trans/transfer case in your Rodeo. I'm curious if it has the GM trans (with two pans) and the Borg Warner t-case or if it is something else.
The rest I would follow his instructions. You being in cold country may benefit from a little warmer air into the intake.
If you get a chance take a peek at the trans/transfer case in your Rodeo. I'm curious if it has the GM trans (with two pans) and the Borg Warner t-case or if it is something else.
PPCLI_Jim
Adventurer
Does that look familiar? sorry I just made a quick trip to the ground and decided to take a snap!:chef:
While i was flopping around decided to check the options and in amongst the Pavementy Princess options HEY !!! Not only do I have a 70 A alternator. I have a L.S.D. thats a score!
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PPCLI_Jim
Adventurer
That's the pressure adjusting cable for the automatic transmission on a four-cylinder Trooper. It is normally connected to the throttle linkage, but most of the time, the cable sleeve separates from the ferrule on the end, causing it to become useless if left connected to it's normal spot. It is not uncommon to find these cables zip-tied to the firewall somewhere. It adjusts the shifting pressure (think: firmness of the shift) of the Aisin AW30-80LE transmission. Looks like someone has set it to whatever setting they felt was best for shifting.
So because im a slow old fart it takes me a while to do this type of work.. I have tucked into the rest of removing and modifying the ITEC to the 5TEC system .
as I live up here in the Land of the free Canada EH?. I dont need to worry about tech inspections like you southern guys. Heres a few pics as i Dither and Dally my removal mod and replacement. As ive been having some issues that point to a possible EGR valve issue i decided i have the gasket make an inspection as i am here anyway .
justcuz
Explorer
So the picture on the right is the cleaned up EGR pintle and new gasket? Do you have a vacuum pump to check and see if it holds vacuum? Working properly an EGR valve helps cool the combustion chamber and prevent detonation by using a little exhaust gas. Not as good as water injection but you never have to fill the bottle with an EGR.
Can anyone confirm that the older automatic Troopers had a 2.66 low range transfer case as opposed to the 2.06 for a stick shift?
Can anyone confirm that the older automatic Troopers had a 2.66 low range transfer case as opposed to the 2.06 for a stick shift?
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PPCLI_Jim
Adventurer
No that is just after i cracked it off of the upper portion of the ITEC system. I have yet to scrape and clean it . no i dont have a vacuum pump to check it either. sigh its free and moves easily( the EGR Piston) . The issue that i am having that is causing the mod is that while i am driving along all of a sudden it will fall off the power and start running super rich it seems. , IF I downshift i can bring the revs up and it will clear out then i can go again ,. I have no idea how old all of my vacuum lines are and I will be getting rid of as many as i can get rid of. in the video he discusses getting rid of the egr completely . as its more of a Hunting buggy and not a highway cruiser , whats the disavantages and advantages of doing that . I want this thing to e dependable not rockeship fast
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtZpZwxwpX4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtZpZwxwpX4
justcuz
Explorer
Your EGR could be opening and causing a big vacuum leak into the engine, but that is a symptom, not the problem.
Dropping a gear and raising RPMs will close the EGR because vacuum drops while reving up.
That means you have an uncontrolled vacuum source to the EGR that is opening it too much and at the wrong time.
A fuel injected engine will add fuel when it senses increased O2 in the exhaust.
If you compress the diaphragm of the EGR and hold your finger over the vacuum port you can check and see if it holds vacuum.
When you reassemble the intake plug the vacuum lines to the EGR and see if it runs better
Worse case scenario you can text or email him and see what he thinks.
He is not on IsuzuPlanet anymore, but you may be able to contact him through his YouTube channel.
Or he is on a couple other sites, one is first generationtrooper.com I think.
Edit:
I watched his video again, he is using the EGR but is using ported vacuum from the throttle body, he eliminated the thermal valve from under the intake in the water passage.
So he runs ported vacuum to the transducer, transducer to the EGR valve.
He eliminates the water in the intake and throttle body completely. Then runs the long hose from the back of the thermostat housing to the heater.
So maybe your thermostatic vacuum switch is bad or your transducer is bad allowing vacuum to open the EGR at the wrong times.
You don't really want the EGR opening on a cold engine, but obviously his works!
Dropping a gear and raising RPMs will close the EGR because vacuum drops while reving up.
That means you have an uncontrolled vacuum source to the EGR that is opening it too much and at the wrong time.
A fuel injected engine will add fuel when it senses increased O2 in the exhaust.
If you compress the diaphragm of the EGR and hold your finger over the vacuum port you can check and see if it holds vacuum.
When you reassemble the intake plug the vacuum lines to the EGR and see if it runs better
Worse case scenario you can text or email him and see what he thinks.
He is not on IsuzuPlanet anymore, but you may be able to contact him through his YouTube channel.
Or he is on a couple other sites, one is first generationtrooper.com I think.
Edit:
I watched his video again, he is using the EGR but is using ported vacuum from the throttle body, he eliminated the thermal valve from under the intake in the water passage.
So he runs ported vacuum to the transducer, transducer to the EGR valve.
He eliminates the water in the intake and throttle body completely. Then runs the long hose from the back of the thermostat housing to the heater.
So maybe your thermostatic vacuum switch is bad or your transducer is bad allowing vacuum to open the EGR at the wrong times.
You don't really want the EGR opening on a cold engine, but obviously his works!
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PPCLI_Jim
Adventurer
Well it's been a bit since I've tinkered with this buut I'm working on it again. I was out at the range the last week and a fellow shooter told me hes got a friend who has a few and may want to sell one or two. Well I contacted him and for 500 $ i can go out to Alberta and strip one down to drag back parts on my weeny trailer. Sweet he sent me a few photos and while they are not in great shape i can definitely make hay out there. 
a set of manual hubs/ steering, hubs a arms motor from a 2.3 with carb setup complete, 5 speed trans with drive shafts and mounts rear axle , (im hoping a lsd) rims doors maybe seats ....For 500$ its a great deal maybe sneak a few parts from another one anyone need anything specific .Well IT lives !!!!!!!!!! i will take a few snaps and video tomorrow.. along with all the usual hoses and wires to connect.
well one hose is holding m up as i need the one the goes from the firewall to the back of the motor and connects to the water out on the intake side. SOOO close
a set of manual hubs/ steering, hubs a arms motor from a 2.3 with carb setup complete, 5 speed trans with drive shafts and mounts rear axle , (im hoping a lsd) rims doors maybe seats ....For 500$ its a great deal maybe sneak a few parts from another one anyone need anything specific .Well IT lives !!!!!!!!!! i will take a few snaps and video tomorrow.. along with all the usual hoses and wires to connect.well one hose is holding m up as i need the one the goes from the firewall to the back of the motor and connects to the water out on the intake side. SOOO close
Eaglefreek
Eagleless
I wish there was a like button when we don't have anything to add, but want to let you know we've seen the post and like the progress.
PPCLI_Jim
Adventurer
Curses foiled again!
Seems my battery is low and i am having a heck of a time getting the exhaust tube connected up to the ITEC box.... What a pain , Now I really am thinking heavy of a carb system even though I have an auto J5 and i have been talking and he says its possible and not to hard to do . I'm really hoping that i can pull this parts run off really soon :chef:.
Seems my battery is low and i am having a heck of a time getting the exhaust tube connected up to the ITEC box.... What a pain , Now I really am thinking heavy of a carb system even though I have an auto J5 and i have been talking and he says its possible and not to hard to do . I'm really hoping that i can pull this parts run off really soon :chef:.
PPCLI_Jim
Adventurer
https://youtu.be/HH4R5jMl8zk AAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!! Now ******? jeez now it sounds like its not getting fuel sorry for the sideways action my camera was supposed o sort that out
PPCLI_Jim
Adventurer
So i sent a email and link off to Johnny5 and he replied in under 1/2 hour "PUT THE MAIN AIR TUBE FROM THE FILTER TO THE MANIFOLD'. did that now it runs fine , I am however having pain at trying to fit my exhaust tube into my manifold seems i bent it a fraction and now its another fight. Man cant anything go easy for me on this thing...
outofrshell
Adventurer
There are a couple of things you can do to help get the EGR tube started- first it is usually easier to start the intake end last, leave both ends loose till will started - check that the tube is not hitting something behind the engine- use a very short 7/8" opened end wrench at the air box - if all else fails loosen exhaust manifold to get some wiggle room - use liberal amounts of anti seize and cuss words. Dave