The Plan...

[ntsqd]

As the owner/driver of a G series trans behind a 22R that has been apart once in it's ~130k for bearings & synchros (by the PO) and having been told by the PO to not run fifth below 3K, I would discourage using one of them. That putting in the W that I have would render the OE console useless and cause a mutilation of the trans tunnel is the reason that it still sits on the garage floor.

You will get into some funkiness with each of the different trans series, and with duals as far as where each shifter wants to poke thru the floor. For some reason, none of them are in the same place.

 

[DaveInDenver]

As the owner/driver of a G series trans behind a 22R that has been apart once in it's ~130k for bearings & synchros (by the PO) and having been told by the PO to not run fifth below 3K, I would discourage using one of them.

A buddy of mine runs one of Marlin's G54 heavy duty trannys (line bored and oversized bearings) and it's been rock solid. I think it's a viable option if you have a G52 so that shifters line up. But those early 5-speeds really did have undersized input bearings that don't go the distance. Like you say, the W56-A/B/C/D all have slight differences, in particular the A/B and the C/D. The later ones have the stick really far back and the t-case shifter really far forward (this is like mine). The two are darn near right next to each other.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Thank you guys so much for your good info here, much appreciated... I'm still not sure exactly what I'll do but again as I figure out an answer I'll definitely keep you guys informed... I'm leaning more and more toward just a regular old V6 23 spline and agian possibly even just the chain driven t-case for now and reevaluate later on...

Here are some pics my results it attempting Rose Garden Hill with IFS and the red guy... I thought I would also post up pics from later that trips (Cruise Moab this year)...

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

I went back and edited some of my typos.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Here are some pics my results it attempting Rose Garden Hill with IFS and the red guy... I thought I would also post up pics from later that trips (Cruise Moab this year)...

Yikes! Yeah, that's actually a less common failure, usually the idler gets driven into the frame rail and bent or a TRE breaks. Nice. For all the bad vibes people send to IFS, you have to be fair and say that Rose Garden in a cranked torsion stock IFS... Yeah. Gearing and lockers go a VERY long way to keeping the breakage down, low and slow, that is the tempo. Once you stop needing to use the skinny pedal and mo-mo so much, the less strong IFS parts tend to be happier. An IFS that has the main things (ball joint spacers, beefed up idler, lower control arm truss) will never threaten a solid axle truck, but they can hold their own.

I wouldn't worry too much about a W56 behind anything around 175 lb-ft or lower. Beyond that is a risk. I say that because the W56 seems to be OK behind the 3RZ-FE (which had a W59 behind it). The R150/151F series is probably OK up to 300 ft-lb or there abouts. An R150/151 can deal with a mild small block and being kind to it. I'd be more worried about the transmission than a 21-spline t-case, personally. But if you can do 23-spline, it's certainly good insurance. If it was me, I'd look for a R150F and whatever adapter (the V6 5 speed) rather than a R151F (4 cylinder). Then get Marlin's geared t-case adapter. This much more universal, you can find V6 5-speeds much easier and with the adapter you have the whole range of t-case options. If you go with the turbo 5-speed, then you are locked into the 22R bolt pattern and if the R151F blows up, you will be stuck most likely using a W56 until you can find another turbo tranny.

 

[taco chaser]

This is going to be a cool build... :Wow1:

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Thanks Dave, couldn't agree more. This break was largely due to attempting to use the skinny pedal from attempting to get up with an open truck and piss poor gearing, so totally agreed. It was me and Kurt and Dan (I always forget his last name) the lawyer from Denver who is just awesome (in his OME 80 series on 33s) which also as we know just wheels so well...

Anywhoo, thanks guys...

 

[ntsqd]

Is it done yet?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Thanks Dave, couldn't agree more. This break was largely due to attempting to use the skinny pedal from attempting to get up with an open truck and piss poor gearing, so totally agreed. It was me and Kurt and Dan (I always forget his last name) the lawyer from Denver who is just awesome (in his OME 80 series on 33s) which also as we know just wheels so well...

Anywhoo, thanks guys...

The biggest issue is the amount of lift you have, and the limited travel of those joints. I'd bet there is a company out there that has derived a solution, either high travel joints or a modified spindle. Your front end was bouncing up and down, the only thing realistically limiting your droop was the tie rod ends, finally one gave up You could get really trick and ream out the mating holes for 80 Series stuff (if it offers more travel) or 1 ton. Though I think the solid axle plan is pretty cool

 

[DaveInDenver]

I'd bet there is a company out there that has derived a solution, either high travel joints or a modified spindle.

[drift]
Total Chaos, for $490, will sell you a pair of high travel heim joint tie rods. If they are anything like their idler arm, last tie rod you'll ever buy due to bending. I would expect the heim joints not to like sand much, though.

[/drift]

 

[Bogo]

[drift]
Total Chaos, for $490, will sell you a pair of high travel heim joint tie rods. If they are anything like their idler arm, last tie rod you'll ever buy due to bending. I would expect the heim joints not to like sand much, though.

[/drift]

You should be able to find boots that will cover the ends.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

I think I'm going to head down Thurs morning (my b-day) and go and yank the axle. Kurt not sure if you are doing anything... Also, can I please please please borrow your new plasma cutter?

I priced out almost everything I need on the steel/fab/coil buckets front and it already comes out a little more than I expect at about $400 shipped (but such is life). I have a set of stock 4cyl TJ springs lying around but am going to see if I can dig up some 6cyl as I figure the weight between the Merc and the 6 cyl are probably closer (maybe). I'm not planning to order yet until I get the axle under there and everything mocked up. I bought the tires already so costs are already:

• $550 for tires (5 BFG AT 33x10.5). 4 almost brand new, 1 brand new, pretty good deal
• $60 for 4 good used rims. I have a somewhat matching 5th that should work I think...

Total: $610

I missed the guy with the LC arms this weekend so I hope I can hopefully meet up with him on Thurs as well. If there are two of us maybe with a little breakfast/lunch bribery and if we have time, maybe even pull the trans and various other required standard trans bits... I am still hoping there are a few FJ62s in an off-the-beaten-path u-pull yard where I found a few late this summer...

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

I can't wait to see this come together.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I think I'm going to head down Thurs morning (my b-day) and go and yank the axle. Kurt not sure if you are doing anything... Also, can I please please please borrow your new plasma cutter? ...

I could probably sneak away Thursday morning to help you grab the axle. Ring me in the next day or two and we'll confirm. As for the plasma cutter, your welcome to use it here whenever you need :sombrero:

 

[ntsqd]

[drift]
Total Chaos, for $490, will sell you a pair of high travel heim joint tie rods. If they are anything like their idler arm, last tie rod you'll ever buy due to bending. I would expect the heim joints not to like sand much, though.

[/drift]

[Total Hijack]Had an interesting conversation last weekend with a friend of mine and this seems like a place to mention it. One of his friends from Church is a CHP Officer who just spent a week in training to do truck inspections. They are now also teaching those officers how to spot parts that may not be DOT or EPA/CARB legal. Like "cold air kits" that move a sensor or spherical rod ends in steering or suspension. Kids in the OC with their 'Trust Fund Trucks' are going to be starting to complain soon. [/Total Hijack]