mgmetalworks
Explorer
....I don't know why more people don't use it, Lego's rule.
The perception that it is expensive. For the versatility, it is pretty fairly priced in my opinion.
....I don't know why more people don't use it, Lego's rule.
The perception that it is expensive. For the versatility, it is pretty fairly priced in my opinion.
Hey Nate,
Love your builds. You are much more meticulous than I am! lol
I do have a quick question on UTE1. Did you ever regret going SRW, based on handling or any other reason? I am considering doing the same, but being on the Right Coast, I don't need anything that crawls.
So I will be staying with The Quigley setup, going with 295/75R16 BFG KO2's. They have the best load rating and are very road worthy, however, I REALLY like the way 35's look on your current rig. But, I also want to build out a trail trailer later on, and would prefer not to tear into my rear end, so staying a little shy on tire will still help the tranny out a bit. I will also be doing some Agile stuff. (already been talking with John...)
Did your departure angle come into play on the trails? I bet it did, and hope to go that route someday, as well.
While still doing my own thing, I am pulling ideas from you, HobieTony, Ambovan, and Ozzrockrat.
For ChitsandGiggles, here is my build thread so far: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/159270-New-Member-New-Rig?p=2102869#post2102869
Cheers everybody, thanks for the kind words!
I've been driving small cars for over a year now and it's a huge change. So trying to be objective here... It feels like a monster truck, and bigger than the original Ute in some ways. Something about shifting the gears gives me a more connected feeling to what a huge heavy rig it is! That said, it gets up and goes great. I went with the TW 6 Position chip to convert the ECU over to manual and a couple of the tunes are ridiculous. Like, if I don't feather the clutch a little it will just pop the rear tires half a rotation, which is funny, but not exactly smooth. Shifter position is good, pedal feel is good. I'll report back after I log some miles and get used to it.
The goal of the ZF6 swap was to have a simpler van that I know how to fix (still don't get all the torque converter and valve body stuff). I also feel more comfortable towing and lugging up hills in manuals because you know without a doubt if you are cooking the clutch or not. It helps me sleep at night when I'm out in the boonies if you know what I mean.
Cheers! It's not that difficult. The UJOR kit requires welding and some alignment so I'd already place it above the land of bolt-on projects, etc.
- The Transmission & T-Case swap itself is a no-brainer: it bolts right up.
- The OEM auto tranny cross member works with minor modifications: It sits another 1 1/2" lower than Chris's splints place it. This is somewhat dictated by what you choose to do with the hole for the shifter because it could sit higher if you wanted to fab a little box below the boot.
- Mounting the Clutch Pedal requires minor fabrication skills and is the only real variable: Note that I went the simplest route I could think of which was to mount an under-hung reverse swinging pedal. There are certainly more elegant ways to mount a pedal but I didn't want to make a sculpture out of it or mess with the firewall and wheel well. The area behind the pedals in our vans if cramped and full of harness bulkhead mounts, yuck.
Here is the ugly bracket I made. I used two existing tapped holes in the cast aluminum dash/steering column assembly, hence the odd angles of the top two mounting holes. It's a 3/4" bore and has plenty of displacement to actuate the OEM AP Slave:
Thank you again Chris, this would have taken forever without your help!
It's spacious for me but I don't play in the NBA (size 9 for the record). My freak of nature viking buddy drove it yesterday too and I forgot to ask him what he thought about the pedals, but he didn't say anything. There's plenty of space really, the wheel well bulge isn't that big. That was one concern I was glad to see elleviated.
Hey all, sorry to revive an older thread but I'm desperate. I'm doing a similar install into an 98 e350 (ambulance), only difference is that I'm doing the 2wd version. I'm to the point where I have the tranny installed. I have the clutch mounted in a custom bracket, but I cannot get the clutch to line to bleed right. I followed the instructions for the zf6 bleed-valve-absent arrangement, by cycling the slave rod back and forth, but I constantly hear bubbles force through and the clutch does not disengage.
Has anyone using this clutch slave/master cylinder combo had a similar experience?
just read every page. amazing build man. everything about it is just ************. would love to check it out sometime if you didn't mind. also wanna see/hear that m!
Cheers! I'll be around mid-Oct. I also talked with Brian regarding a Beer meet or something.
jessluvs2romp- I replied to your PM, hope it helps!