The Utilitarian-Camper 2nd Gen Tacoma

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Not as bling as say... these

Aren't those just the same, just chrome?

I am thinking at night, halo BMW style projectors, and Audi inspired LEDs....pretty darn blingy
smiley_pimp.gif
 

zolo

Explorer
Gas Fill

LX450,
Here are a couple pics from what I did to raise my fuel filler and set it up so it will accept gas without dumping it all over the ground and fill super slow.

I used 1" Stainless Steel and then TIG welded the factory top section to it. It goes down the cab/bed and makes a 90deg bend then goes right into the factory hoses at the tank. For the carbon can vent and over flow vent I simply used fuel hose to the factory top sections and routed right bad to stock locations under the bed.
So it is all hooked up correctly and works well...

Hope this helps a little. My bed has been great thus far, and you are right the extra space is great.
 
LX450,
Here are a couple pics from what I did to raise my fuel filler and set it up so it will accept gas without dumping it all over the ground and fill super slow.

I used 1" Stainless Steel and then TIG welded the factory top section to it. It goes down the cab/bed and makes a 90deg bend then goes right into the factory hoses at the tank. For the carbon can vent and over flow vent I simply used fuel hose to the factory top sections and routed right bad to stock locations under the bed.
So it is all hooked up correctly and works well...

Hope this helps a little. My bed has been great thus far, and you are right the extra space is great.


Was there any reason you didnt try and go through the frame rail of the flatbed? similar to what was originally done? I havent yet done my fill tube the correct way but It seems like you could run it almost in the factory location?
 

zolo

Explorer
There are 2 main reason for needing the filler higher than the flat-bed. One is less costly than the other.

1st- The factory fill was about as high as the door handles. Now I don't know about your bed.
But from the pics and my personal flatbed its no were close to the door handle as for the side of it. So trying to mount the filler through the side of the bed is just to low. It allows the fuel to spill back out and even worse it allows the intake vent for the carbon canister to be subjected to water getting it.
Leading to #2

2nd- The vent inlet for the carbon canister and EVAP pump is the black plastic surround of the fuel filler. So if you mount the filler low like in the side of the bed and or near the wheel well it WILL get water in the carbon canister and it will ruin the pump and canister. I know cause I did just that.
I originally mounted mine along the bed. The shallowest creek or river crossing will get water in and that unit will get destroyed. Its expensive too.

So that is why I mounted mine higher and why I suggest you do the same. The slow fill and back flow issues were enough for me to want to change the low design but once water got into the EVAP system I knew If I was to wheel the truck at all and keep this bed I had to change the design and the height.

I hope this helps. Its pretty easy to understand if you follow the other 2 hoses coming off the fuel filler. They go to the overflow and EVAP system. So its best to mount it higher and avoid my mistakes. Once you figure out your head board and or camper set up you might be able to use a similar design to mine. But whatever try and come up with a good set up that you will be happy with and will work for the long run.

Cheers Daniel
 
Well the rest of my liner showed up today so I should get a chance to finish off the bed tomorrow. This evening I got a chance to make a dual battery tray for under the bed. Figured while the bed is off, why not. I utilized factory holes and decided I can use the rest of the cross members to mount other accessory's like a water tank or compressor. I modified one side of the cross member to allow adequate clearance for the brake lines and battery cables. I like to use every bit of usable space I can. I also wanted to be able to pull the battery easily if I need too so I widened the opening for it to slide in to make it as easy as possible. I also cut and welded a ratchet strap I had laying around as the hold down. I'm really happy with how well it holds the battery down. Ill prolly bedline the bracket tomorrow if I have some left over
 

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zolo

Explorer
In the last bottom picture, That black box with many hoses and a wire connector. That is the box that uses the fuel filler as a vent and the one you want to protect from water....

The battery hold down looks good. So much space under the bed its not even funny.
What did you do about tail lights?
Will you keep the receiver hitch? I couldn't find a good way to keep mine without having it site way low and look ridiculous and hinder my departure angle.
 
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Flagster

Expedition Leader
Did you consider an "under the bed slideout"....
Your flatbed build is on my long list of to dos and while speaking with the folks at UTE ltd they offer a slide out to make use of some of that space...

COOL BUILD! btw
 
In the last bottom picture, That black box with many hoses and a wire connector. That is the box that uses the fuel filler as a vent and the one you want to protect from water....


What did you do about tail lights?
Will you keep the receiver hitch? I couldn't find a good way to keep mine without having it site way low and look ridiculous and hinder my departure angle.

Is there any reason to just move the vent away from the fuel filler all together? similar to the diff breather mod?

tail lights are LED bars, Not sure I love them but they were a good price so Ill stick with them for now till I discover something I love

I put on a lower style hitch in the beginning and your right, super funky. Ill likely fab a strait across one just below the flat bead. I know it will look better this way I'm just unclear as to how much of a drop hitch I'll need for it to be use able. I don't want to end up like those guys who jack up there truck 2 feet then tryand tow a boat with a dinky drop hitch
 

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Did you consider an "under the bed slideout"....
Your flatbed build is on my long list of to dos and while speaking with the folks at UTE ltd they offer a slide out to make use of some of that space...

COOL BUILD! btw

I did think about that. Toyota decided to use a mix match of bolts and rivets for the frames of these trucks. So for instance the under bed tire carrier is held on with bolts and rivets. I was unsure I wanted to cut the rivets but after the bed was done I realized just how much extra space was gained under the bed so I chose to do it and raise the tire carrier. I was originally going to do an in the floor "hatch" but decided Id be putting a spare battery, water tank, spare tire. under there so whats the point of all the extra work and metal to make it accessible from the top? the same goes fro the drawer with extra supports, sliders, latches ect. if I was looking for just more storage room I would say go for it and there really is a ton of extra space under there now. I have a tend to over build everything so I'm attempting to keep things light and strong on this built and not just overkill all the time.
 

zolo

Explorer
Is there any reason to just move the vent away from the fuel filler all together? similar to the diff breather mod?

tail lights are LED bars, Not sure I love them but they were a good price so Ill stick with them for now till I discover something I love

I put on a lower style hitch in the beginning and your right, super funky. Ill likely fab a strait across one just below the flat bead. I know it will look better this way I'm just unclear as to how much of a drop hitch I'll need for it to be use able. I don't want to end up like those guys who jack up there truck 2 feet then tryand tow a boat with a dinky drop hitch

Well I do believe its a system that is all tied into the fuel tank and EVAP to recirculate the vapor. However I'm unsure if moving the vent off the filler would set a CEL light and somehow confuse the system. I know that once the EVAP gets disturbed or broken it certainly does.
Its a pretty sensitive system that's for sure. That is the main reason I stuck with the original routing just longer hoses.
It is a very efficient EVAP system and works really well. So My advice is to try and emulate the factory routing as best as you can.

(BTW not that this matters but, I'm a full time auto tech and co-owner of an independent garage.) So I have dealt with this system on many Toyota's. One issue some of the other models have is people topping off when filling up and gas will enter the EVAP canister and ruin it that way. So when I called the dealer we buy parts from about my own truck he told me that, knew what I was talking about and had one in stock. That tells you a lot. When they keep the parts in stock I mean.

That is truly the one draw back from the flat bed is coming up with a suitable modification for the filler. I called UTE Beds and asked them what they did and he told me that they keep them in the stock location. I realized that there beds are much much higher than mine and yours. So it likely works for that bed. But with how I built mine and how yours is, the thing needs some thinking to make it reliable and work well.

But Id like to know what you come up with... I just wanted to give you a heads up about it being to low and getting water in.
I have to buy a new EVAP canister now. My birthday is coming so up emission time, and I found out about this issue the hard way...

I hope you don't think I'm forcing the issue to much just trying to be informative.
 

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