Things to look out for during FRP installation of Flip Pac?

[DVexile]

In a couple of months I'll be having a new Flip Pac installed at FRP on a 2nd Gen Tacoma (DCSB). As you may have heard AT is no longer in the FlipPac game so you've got to go to the source if you want one.

Sounds straightforward from what FRP says, I don't really need to do anything to prep according to them. They said to leave the plastic tops on the bed sides and that they have parts to handle the slight difference in height of the bed sides and front of the bed. Said it takes about 4 hours for them to install.

But... is there any additional wisdom from people here? Anything to watch out for when they do the install? Anything to ask them to do differently? Or should I just let them get on with it and if I think there is something "better" to be done to just do it myself later?

Can't wait to be a member of the Flip Pac club!

 

[MTaco]

Sorry I don't have any info for you but I do have a question. I did not know AT was out of the Flippac business. Are the prices different from FRP or are they the same as AT? They don't post prices on their website that I could find. I have a DCSB like you and am wondering what your paid. I would love to find a used one but that would be almost impossible in Montana. Thanks!

 

[DVexile]

Sorry I don't have any info for you but I do have a question. I did not know AT was out of the Flippac business. Are the prices different from FRP or are they the same as AT? They don't post prices on their website that I could find. I have a DCSB like you and am wondering what your paid. I would love to find a used one but that would be almost impossible in Montana. Thanks!

I think AT made the decision to stop being a Flip Pac dealer fairly recently. It caught me a bit off guard but fortunately it appears I'll be able to get one from FRP fairly quickly.

It is actually slightly cheaper bought and installed by FRP at their factory compared to AT. Of course AT had to have them shipped to their facility and provided a variety of other value added customization services so not surprising it cost a bit more from AT. Plus customer service at AT is very highly rated while people have mixed experiences with FRP. Really I don't think FRP isn't a company that typically sells direct to consumers. The Flip Pac is probably the only thing they sell to consumers directly and is only a small portion of their fiberglass business. AT on the other hand is entirely customer service oriented and so many people were happy to pay a modest premium for that service - especially if you wanted options or additional build out on the Flip Pac or vehicle. But that isn't an option anymore.

My Flip Pac which is for a DCSB and has no side windows is $5100 + sales tax and includes installation at the factory (Riverside, CA). Lead time right now is a little over seven weeks. You need to pay half when you place the order and then will pay the remaining half at installation.

I really don't know the details of how one might get a Flip Pac from them delivered someplace else for self install, but presumably you can. I also don't know if there are any price variations with side window options. Everything seems to be phone and snail mail with them. Give the number on their website a call, say you want to order or have questions on a Flip Pac and they will get you to the right person. You might need to wait for the right person to be in the office - remember, Flip Pac is just one thing they make there and isn't their main business.

I'll PM you some additional details from phone conversations I've had with the companies.

 

[tacollie]

Ours was $5300 with windows delivered to 5 star RV in Denver.
I am curious how your timeline pans out. Hopefully it helps they are installing it in California.


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[Arclight]

It's a pretty straightforward process. You leave your truck there and they will drop you off at the mall, the climbing gym, or somewhere else of your choosing and pick you up when done. Then you should drive over to Fullerton and we can compare Flippacs!


Arclight

 

[Dave Bennett]

They use clamps to hold the shell to the bed. No bueno for off road IMO. Mine has the plastic bed caps off for a better seal and copious amounts of EPDM bulb gasket (NOT the cheap foam tape) and silicone at the front corners (there are small gaps there due to the bed design).

Look at my FlipPac thread and you'll see how mine is secured to the bed rails with 6 bolts. I recommend that style of mounting (with thread locker) over the mickey mouse clamps for pavement pounders.

YMMV

 

[tacollie]

They use clamps to hold the shell to the bed. No bueno for off road IMO. Mine has the plastic bed caps off for a better seal and copious amounts of EPDM bulb gasket (NOT the cheap foam tape) and silicone at the front corners (there are small gaps there due to the bed design).

Look at my FlipPac thread and you'll see how mine is secured to the bed rails with 6 bolts. I recommend that style of mounting (with thread locker) over the mickey mouse clamps for pavement pounders.

YMMV

I second what he said. The crappy foam will leak a lot! I used red locktite on my bolts.


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[DVexile]

Then you should drive over to Fullerton and we can compare Flippacs!

That'd be awesome! But I think my schedule is too tight on this trip, the truck heads back to Vegas to go into storage almost immediately after install. But by the fall sometime I'll hopefully be living in the LA area for about a year and I'll take you up on your invitation then Plus I think I remember from another post you've got a maker space down in your area with gear for basic metal working? When it comes to awning install and raised floor design I plan to do this fall I might want to check that out.

Look at my FlipPac thread and you'll see how mine is secured to the bed rails with 6 bolts. I recommend that style of mounting (with thread locker) over the mickey mouse clamps for pavement pounders.

I second what he said. The crappy foam will leak a lot! I used red locktite on my bolts.

Yeah, I was sort of guessing whatever FRP does to install I will eventually have to redo entirely myself. Doesn't sound like there is going to be any point in trying to slightly modify their install - I'll just do it "right" at a later date sourcing my own materials.

Dave, your build thread is excellent and was the confirmation that a Flip Pac on a DCSB was going to be my expo setup. I recalled you and others took off the caps and it makes sense why. Though FRP wants them on for their installation so I'll just leave them there for now and take them off when I remount sometime later in the year. Truck isn't going to see any real use until the fall.

And yes that foam stuff sucks (if that is what FRP uses). Have some on the shell of my current truck and there are plenty of leaks, though to be fair it is a pretty darn old installation. With the Flip Pac though I'm going to try to get as water and dust sealed as practical - including the tailgate.

Good idea on the red Loctite - I don't plan on taking it off ever once properly installed and that stuff holds real well in vibe environments.

Thanks for the tips everyone!

 

[Arclight]

They use clamps to hold the shell to the bed. No bueno for off road IMO. Mine has the plastic bed caps off for a better seal and copious amounts of EPDM bulb gasket (NOT the cheap foam tape) and silicone at the front corners (there are small gaps there due to the bed design).

Look at my FlipPac thread and you'll see how mine is secured to the bed rails with 6 bolts. I recommend that style of mounting (with thread locker) over the mickey mouse clamps for pavement pounders.

YMMV

FYI, they do use foam and you could supply your own bulb seal if you want it to be more watertight. They don't use clamps however. Mine was installed with (6) through bolts into the bed rails. They recommended removing the plastic bed liner for a better fit/seal.

The only other improvement I am aware of would be substituting rivnuts for the sheetmetal screws used to attach the hood clips. They put RTV over the top when they did mine, so I haven't had any problems with them coming loose. But it's an easy upgrade if you have a rivnut tool.


Arclight

 

[Overlanerd]

I agree with bringing your own bulb seal. Although the foam tape is holding up with no leaks, replacing it is not going to be simple without camper jacks.

They bolted it through the bedside track- 3 on each side.

They will also leave the electrical connection wherever you want it. I picked the wrong spot due to poor planning.

I would recommend ordering the SLO Sail rain fly right now. The tent leaks without it and you could experience rain on the way home. The foam mattress turns into a big sponge and sent us home on the last day of a weeklong camping trip. It especially sucked because it was raining hard in Yosemite, which sent a lot of tent campers home. Plenty of open sites, in the valley on a Saturday, with forecasted clear skies the next day. We didn't have reservations and were just passing through after an eastern Sierras trip. We popped the tent to change into dry clothes and wait out the rain. The water came in through the seams and ran down the tent poles. With a soaked mattress and two small kids, we had to call it. The rainfly would have changed everything.

Lastly, they mounted the camper crooked. It's off by 1/4". No one notices the 1/2" difference on the sides but me, but I notice it all the time. Something to check before driving away.

 

[Jr_Explorer]

They use clamps to hold the shell to the bed. No bueno for off road IMO. Mine has the plastic bed caps off for a better seal and copious amounts of EPDM bulb gasket (NOT the cheap foam tape) and silicone at the front corners (there are small gaps there due to the bed design).

Look at my FlipPac thread and you'll see how mine is secured to the bed rails with 6 bolts. I recommend that style of mounting (with thread locker) over the mickey mouse clamps for pavement pounders.

YMMV

Maybe that's a Tacoma thing but FRP bolted mine directly to/through the bed (but I have a steel bed on my Silverado). But the foam they use will NOT last even one trip down the Mojave Road. Ask me how I know this!

 

[Cytocycle]

Based on people install onto the rails of a Tacoma, I have found someone that makes metal top panels to replace the plastic ones and in the process it makes all sides level. I was considering these before i pickup my Flip-pac in July. Any pro/cons in doing something like this? and should I try to get a bulb gasket for it?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/side-rail-cap-system-long-short-bed-in-stock.353742/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/kbvoodoo-side-rail-caps-installation-write-up-pic-heavy.372647/
Thanks for peoples feedback!
Chris

 

[Cytocycle]

So I picked up my flippac in Riverside 2 days ago, and had a very pleasant experience, and thanks to all the suggestions on this thread.
I did buy the side plastic replacements. Wish they didn't have holes in them (the long bed versions don't have holes) as this might be an ingress for water under the rail in the future. I might silicone the holes up.

The Flippac sits nice and flat on my 5' bed truck

At SRP HQ in Riverside, Ca after getting it installed

 

[homemade]

So I picked up my flippac in Riverside 2 days ago, and had a very pleasant experience, and thanks to all the suggestions on this thread.
I did buy the side plastic replacements. Wish they didn't have holes in them (the long bed versions don't have holes) as this might be an ingress for water under the rail in the future. I might silicone the holes up.

The Flippac sits nice and flat on my 5' bed truck

At SRP HQ in Riverside, Ca after getting it installed

That is a great looking setup. I think I am going to load mine up and use it next week.

 

[mtnbike28]

Nice looking set-up