Tire Size/Gearing

[t42beal13t]

So .... I take it that you don't want to do the "no cost " tire swap? No intention of scam or to take advantage. Just trying to help

Have you ever done business with Rovertrader? I have bought, sold and traded with him in the past two years and in every transaction we both came out better. More importantly, he has saved me lots of money when I've been in crappy situations and provided me with valuable information in the Rover world.

Did you ask the OP if he replied to the offer? Did you recommend he counter offer? I have heard Rovertrader doesn't mind haggling from time to time. It's your opinion if the deal isn't a good one; but instead of attacking Rovertrader, why not offer some guidance to the newbie? Isn't that in the spirit of this forum?

 

[Drover]

Have you ever done business with Rovertrader? I have bought, sold and traded with him in the past two years and in every transaction we both came out better. More importantly, he has saved me lots of money when I've been in crappy situations and provided me with valuable information in the Rover world.

Did you ask the OP if he replied to the offer? Did you recommend he counter offer? I have heard Rovertrader doesn't mind haggling from time to time. It's your opinion if the deal isn't a good one; but instead of attacking Rovertrader, why not offer some guidance to the newbie? Isn't that in the spirit of this forum?

Guidance to the newb? Of course I did. pm'd him minutes after the request was made by rovertraitor. What do you think? I just want to stir up ********? Just calling out a guy who blatantly was trying to get the upper hand in a trade. The post speaks for itself.
When it comes to lockers , diffs and cdl. It's like speaking Greek to new guys. Have you ever read some of the questions on here and other forums? People new to this have no clue. And we as seasoned guys in the hobby need to help. Not try and get $4,000 dollars in lockers for a $1,200 dollar set.. Anyone who knows me on this site and in the overland community know I'm a pretty low key guy and keep to myself. I myself own 5 companies , and maybe this is why this upsets me. In our position you have to constantly self regulate and monitor your own actions , because there is no one that you answer to being self employed .

If he wants to backpedal now and say that wasn't his intentions that's fine. But it's in plain writing , what he ask for. Should be more careful of wording if you don't want to be called out.

 

[Dendy Jarrett]

Gents, Let's take this off line please.
Rovertrader is a sponsor on this site. To be a sponsor, you must have a stellar reputation. There are plenty here who have done business with him and can speak to that fact.
DroverRover, the belief that this is a "bad deal" is one of those "humbly in your opinion" situations. The Terms of Use for this site do not allow for going into a thread where (for instance) someone has something for sale and "attacking" the price.
If you think this is a bad deal, PM the people involved and tell them that. If it "is" a bad deal, then let the facts speak for themselves.

Indeed, this is why the internet and communications by e-mail is so easily mis-interpreted. You have no idea the level of inflection or flexibility in a "deal" when you just go by the written word. Additionally, things like leaving out crucial punctuation can cause completely different meaning.

Please lighten up here and let this thread get back on track.

Respect!
D

 

[jgdisco2]

Have you ever done business with Rovertrader? I have bought, sold and traded with him in the past two years and in every transaction we both came out better. More importantly, he has saved me lots of money when I've been in crappy situations and provided me with valuable information in the Rover world.

Did you ask the OP if he replied to the offer? Did you recommend he counter offer? I have heard Rovertrader doesn't mind haggling from time to time. It's your opinion if the deal isn't a good one; but instead of attacking Rovertrader, why not offer some guidance to the newbie? Isn't that in the spirit of this forum?

I agree here. I've done business with Rovertrader for many years, and he's not one time taken advantage of me, and getting to know him as a friend, he has nothing but upmost character. To be honest half the crap bolted on my truck came from him, even helped me install some of it! I was a newb once and got lucky and camped beside him on one of my first trips to Uwharrie, he welcomed my dumb questions with good answers and did nothing but help me. He is an asset to the Land Rover community and I'm glad to know him and call him a friend.

Attacking people gets you nowhere and should be reserved for discoweb not expo which is "usually" a lot more civilized. So let's let this rest and the the OP decide what he wants to do to HIS truck. He came looking for advice/ suggestions and that's what he got.

And since I'm hear, idk why people want 35's on a Land Rover in the first place. I do just fine on my puny 2 in lift and 32's...there's nowhere I couldn't go around here....But this is my mere opinion.

 

[DividingCreek]

DroverRover, no idea whom you are but you are a bit over the top. Lots of different idea's thrown out here for the op but no one really asked the guy how he intends to use his truck ? He stated he doesn't use it on road much so he must do quite a bit of offroading. Personally for my purposes I have never needed uber low crawling ratio so 4:71's would be the last thing I'd do, but I'm in Virginia not crawling granite piles in Vt or slickrock @ Moab.
I have always elected to simply swap out transfer cases to get optimum road gearing rather than re gearing diff's but that's me. I've never had anything but stock ring and pinions but have run 33's and 35's on my different trucks over the years.
FWIW Rovertrader trades rovers and parts as his user ID suggests. I have done many deals with him over the past 8 years but that's not the point. How the OP intends to use his truck should be the question being asked.

 

[corbinwalp]

Drover, I appreciate the help but you need to leave this be. It's not a big deal unless you make it one. To Rovertrader, I appreciate the offer and I know you didn't have malicious intentions. Lets keep this on gearing here gents...

 

[corbinwalp]

DroverRover, no idea whom you are but you are a bit over the top. Lots of different idea's thrown out here for the op but no one really asked the guy how he intends to use his truck ? He stated he doesn't use it on road much so he must do quite a bit of offroading. Personally for my purposes I have never needed uber low crawling ratio so 4:71's would be the last thing I'd do, but I'm in Virginia not crawling granite piles in Vt or slickrock @ Moab.
I have always elected to simply swap out transfer cases to get optimum road gearing rather than re gearing diff's but that's me. I've never had anything but stock ring and pinions but have run 33's and 35's on my different trucks over the years.
FWIW Rovertrader trades rovers and parts as his user ID suggests. I have done many deals with him over the past 8 years but that's not the point. How the OP intends to use his truck should be the question being asked.

I don't do too much highway driving, primarily around town <40mph. I think swapping t-case gears to 1.003 is the best option for me, I just need to figure out either how to do it, or how much it'll cost for someone to do it for me.

 

[Rovertrader]

Thanks CW- and everyone else as well for the kind words...

 

[DividingCreek]

Changing the tcase gearing requires that the center/intermediate gears in the case be changed which requires the case be out of the truck. That means dropping the front and rear drive shafts, removing the parking brake cable ( I always remove the drum and backing plate to make the case lighter and then there are appx 7 bolts holding the case to the transmission. The frame mounts and speedo drive wire get undone and out she comes. The only tricky part about changing the intermediate gears in a transfer case is how tight to tighten the nut that tightens the bearings. There is a good write up in the lt230 rebuild manual. That or just ping ashcrofts and buy a tcase built with 1.003 gearing and swap the case yourself. FYI buy the case outright if you go that route instead of shipping your core back. Your tcase should be worth $150 or so if it has difflock which I'd assume it does.

 

[SCRover]

A little late here, but let me make plainly clear that Rovertrader is nothing if he isn't honest and straightforward. In my dealings with him, he has been nothing short of stellar. He would give me the shirt off his back if needed. I think the responses here on RT's behalf speak volumes.

Now back to the show...

 

[pugslyyy]

I would be all over an offer to swap diffs and fix my problem at no cost. Fixing a ring and pinion gearing problem with a transfer case solution means you are nonstandard gearing everywhere. I don't see how that helps.

 

[Howski]

Fixing a ring and pinion gearing problem with a transfer case solution means you are nonstandard gearing everywhere. I don't see how that helps.

And how is this a problem? The LT230 is a very robust transfer case.

 

[pugslyyy]

And how is this a problem?

The further you get from standard for an expedition vehicle, the harder it becomes to source replacement parts in remote places.

The LT230 is a very robust transfer case.

As long as it is a T suffix, yes.

This thread reminds me of discoweb. And of why I don't go there anymore.

 

[Howski]

The further you get from standard for an expedition vehicle, the harder it becomes to source replacement parts in remote places.

While I agree in principle, sourcing parts for a LT230 isn't going to be quick no matter where you are or what ratio you're running. If the OP intends to take his vehicle abroad to what I'd consider truly 'remote' places then this would be the least of his concerns with a DII.

 

[meatblanket]

I would be all over an offer to swap diffs and fix my problem at no cost. Fixing a ring and pinion gearing problem with a transfer case solution means you are nonstandard gearing everywhere. I don't see how that helps.

My comments were made assuming this particular truck sees substantial off road use. Putting stock diff gearing back in there is a step in the wrong direction if he wants to maintain the same level of off road capability. Whether maintaining that present capability is worth the added risk of getting stranded somewhere due to the unavailability of parts is an individual decision. Also consider that the lower gearing will make life easier on the transmission on the more difficult trails, particularly with large rocks and ledges.

If the truck isn't going to find itself on any difficult trails, then I would absolutely agree with you on this.