Tool Overkill?

[Lmg]

So I thought I'd start a discussion to see if people might want to admit (or at least be open to the idea) that some of us carry more tools than might be necessary.

I was very inspired by Jonathan Hanson's writings on his tool kit back when I got started in Overlanding, and I've definitely obeyed the rule of "If I use a tool from the shop to work on the rig, the tool gets moved (or duplicated) into the rig". The problem, now, of course, is that I probably have somewhere north of 50lbs of tools in the van.

This year I've been putting the van on a diet (in a lot of places), and it's time to address the tool kit. I'm hoping to use a more focused set of criteria for evaluating which tools to keep. In its current configuration and use, my rig is basically a short-term camper, in North America. I know we all fancy ourselves world travelers, and if I were planning to do Morocco to Capetown or something, then obviously I'd need a more comprehensive tools (and spares) package, but the reality is that right now this rig gets used for 3-day to 2-week trips, with a mix of highway and soft-road travel. No rock crawling, no solo treks across the Rub' al Khali. More than that, I need to realize I'm basically driving a Minivan with pretensions to greatness - over-preparing actually causes it's own set of problems because I don't have the payload budget of the "big boys".

Of the myriad tools I've carried in this rig for the last 10 years (holy crap I've had this van 10 years!), the tools I've actually used in the field comes down to a shockingly short list. (Multi-bit screwdriver, a few combo wrenches, side cutters, pliers, snap knife...) Obviously I'm not going to remove every tool that's never been used - a lot of the stuff that's there is there for the reasonable "what if" scenarios - things I might reasonably be expected to face (and tackle) on my own. But let's face it, in the places I'm going to be traveling in the foreseeable future, the tool to fix a torn CV boot is duct-tape and zip-ties, followed by the swift application of a cell-phone and a credit card.

I promise I will re-spec and re-pack the tool kit if the mission changes, but until then, I'm keen to knock the tool kit down by about 10lbs, at least. First pass was to eliminate the majority of the SAE tools. The van is metric, aside from a few SAE fasteners added when I built the new bench/bed conversion, etc.

Next pass is to re-evaluate the "nice to have" vs. "need to have" and the redundancies therein. I'm currently carrying a full set of metric 3/8" sockets, plus 3/8" deep sockets, plus a full set of ratcheting combo wrenches. (Plus some overlap at both ends in 1/2" and 1/4" drive.) It's super convenient to be able to reach for the easiest way to undo a fastener, but I have to wonder how many jobs require one or the other that couldn't just be done slower with a different tool. For example, I'm 95% certain the only reason I have a 1/2" drive 21mm socket is for snugging up the leaf spring hanger bolts on the rear suspension, which is a job just as easily done with the 21mm combo wrench. (Which is also only in the kit for that purpose, I suspect.) For the smallest fasteners, I have 1/4" short and some 3/8" short and deep sockets, (and again the ratcheting combo wrenches). Probably don't need 4 different ways to turn a 10mm bolt, and I'm positive that there are no 5mm or 7mm fasteners anywhere, so having the "full set" on some stuff seems silly.

So my current plan is to at least try to identify redundancies and pull stuff out.

After that, I want to re-evaluate my jacking situation. Years ago, I switched to a bottle jack + Bogert Safe-Jack kit, plus the "jack stand" kit. There's a lot to like about that kit, but it's heavy stuff. I've since realized that with an axle-tube adapter I can do all of the same lifts with the factory scissor jack. I'm questioning whether the 20-30 lbs of bottle-jack-and-iron is justified vs. the factory jack.

What other methods can we use to identify crucial tools vs. "nice to have"? Any strategies for avoiding the "every tool in my shop eventually ends up in my van" issue? Is there any way to ID all the factory fastener sizes without going through the vehicle and trying everything? I have a digital copy of the FSM, but its up to use an old virtual machine and it hasn't run right since Windows 7 was a thing...

Great thread, thank you, I have been struggling with this topic for about a month now.

I will be watching closely.

 

[Lmg]

A simple approach to dealing with what tools to bring along can be as easy as picking a nice weekend, park your vehicle in the driveway, pull out a good selection of handtools, start at the front bumper and work to the rear bumper touching each nut, bolt, fasterner. Determine which ones can be turned by the same sized tools (eg: screwdriver, etc..) and which ones are "close enough" (sae wrench on the bolt head and a metric wrench on the nut. If your vehicle has both SAE/Metric fasterners) Dont forget the non-standard stuff on all your bolted on accessories. Add some vice grips for clamping off brake lines, fluid lines, hydraulic lines. Hammer to help loosen those rusty bolts. Once done, return the tools that don't fit to the garage and buildout your travel kit with the ones that do fit. Dont forget the duct tape, bailing wire, elec tape, zipties and misc small tubes of lube and liquid weld. Cheers!

Here is another way to do this, not saying it is perfect. I am attaching a document from Bolt Depot which on page 1 gives metric bolt head/wrench sizes for JIS and other standards. JIS is Japan Industrial Standards, so Toyota would be using this. JIS and all standards are updated as needed.


Page 2 is from the 2017 GX 460 FSM which can be found online. It shows bolt diameters from 6mm to 16mm in various grades, and torque values for each. However you can use bolt diameters here and the wrench sizes on page one to determine wrench sizes needed.

Page 3 is also from FSM, and is included as a reference to determine bolt torque.

This attachment may be worth keeping on your cell phone, etc.

There will be exceptions like the nuts for pinons, transfer case output shafts, etc. If anyone knows of these exceptions, I would appreciate them posting them.

Here is the link to the FSMs and post it here as an edit if I find it. I had no issues with it.

GX 460 Manuals

This post will hopefully be a permanent thread along with the "150 Series Pic Thread" thread as a easy to find resources for all types of GX 460 manuals. Suggested manuals/material to post being: Factory Service Manual (FSM) Owner Manuals (for each year) Wiring diagrams Anything that may relate...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Herbie]

OK, here's a first stab at deletion:

Thus far, I've shaved about 24lbs from the kit. Most of that (~19lbs) was from swapping out the Bogert Safe Jack/jackstand kit in favor of returning to the factory scissor jack. I still need to fab up an axle tube adapter and maybe an extended baseplate for this, so I'll give back a little of this gain before the end.

I will take better pictures once I can lay everything out (I was racing daylight), but I've eliminated some redundancy in the adjustable wrenches and channel locks, and pulled all the short 3/8" sockets, and nearly all my single-blade screw & torx drivers. I already have a multibit screwdriver in the van, (not shown earlier because it lives elsewhere in the cabin since it sees so much use.) At the moment, I'm keeping the folding torx and allen wrench kits because they cover a lot of fasteners - the van has several torx in particular that are down inside recessed holes so cannot be accessed with a 1/4" hex bit as the diameter of the driver is too big. I'm ordering a set of "L-shaped" torx bits (like loose allen wrenches), then I can maybe built up what I need into a smaller set that way.

I've exchanged the telescoping 1/2" ratchet for a better built regular 1/2" ratchet which I can use with my cheater tube (since that serves other purposes anyhow.) Also removed the digital torque meter, though I am keeping the breaker bar - I get a pavlovian twinge in my neck where my Grandpa would ********** me if he found out I was using a ratchet handle to break loose big bolts. Given the diameter of my tires and depth of the lugs inside the hub recess, I'd need a long extension to get the lug nuts off with a 90° driver, so the pivot-head on the breaker bar is the most convenient tool during tire change anyhow.

Removing the redundancies and unneeded stuff has left me with a bit of a mess in terms of tool storage organization now. I should be able to eliminate at least one tool roll, but I hate the construction of the remaining wrench roll (and it is slightly inadequate to hold everything that's left), so now I'm reviewing my options. ATC Shop Roll is the obvious candidate, but I'll look around.

 

[1leglance]

View attachment 606700

OK, here's a first stab at deletion:

Thus far, I've shaved about 24lbs from the kit. Most of that (~19lbs) was from swapping out the Bogert Safe Jack/jackstand kit in favor of returning to the factory scissor jack. I still need to fab up an axle tube adapter and maybe an extended baseplate for this, so I'll give back a little of this gain before the end.

I've exchanged the telescoping 1/2" ratchet for a better built regular 1/2" ratchet which I can use with my cheater tube (since that serves other purposes anyhow.) Also removed the digital torque meter, though I am keeping the breaker bar - I get a pavlovian twinge in my neck where my Grandpa would ********** me if he found out I was using a ratchet handle to break loose big bolts. Given the diameter of my tires and depth of the lugs inside the hub recess, I'd need a long extension to get the lug nuts off with a 90° driver, so the pivot-head on the breaker bar is the most convenient tool during tire change anyhow.

Great work and you already did the most important thing which was swap out the jack setup.

Ok I totally understand on using the ratchet as breaker....but I recently got a Tekton 1/2 ratchet BECAUSE it has the same max torque as the breaker bar 560lbs for a flex head, angle arm, quick release was impressive enough for me, exactly the same as the 1/2, 18in arm breaker

3/8 Inch Drive x 12 Inch Flex Head Quick-Release Bent Handle Ratchet | TEKTON | SRH33112

3/8 inch drive x 12 inch flex head quick-release bent handle ratchet. 90-tooth, 4-degree swing. 180-degree Flex Head. Extra long bent handle. SRH33112.

www.tekton.com

3/8 Inch Drive x 18 Inch Breaker Bar | TEKTON | SBH00118

3/8 inch drive x 18 inch breaker bar. Easily loosen rusted, overtightened nuts and bolts. Long handle offers sure two-handed grip and extra leverage.

www.tekton.com

Also in my rig I only carry the 1/4 in sizes that are a must where a 3/8 socket or ratcheting wrench won't fit. I only carry 1/2 on the beasty bolts I know I need that for.
It is a constant battle on my van to keep weight down, I am 700lbs UNDER my GVW of 8600lbs but I still want less space lost and less stuff to deal with.

 

[Kmrtnsn]

My kingdom for a 34MM socket!!

 

[Herbie]

Ok I totally understand on using the ratchet as breaker....but I recently got a Tekton 1/2 ratchet BECAUSE it has the same max torque as the breaker bar 560lbs for a flex head, angle arm, quick release was impressive enough for me, exactly the same as the 1/2, 18in arm breaker

3/8 Inch Drive x 12 Inch Flex Head Quick-Release Bent Handle Ratchet | TEKTON | SRH33112

3/8 inch drive x 12 inch flex head quick-release bent handle ratchet. 90-tooth, 4-degree swing. 180-degree Flex Head. Extra long bent handle. SRH33112.

www.tekton.com

3/8 Inch Drive x 18 Inch Breaker Bar | TEKTON | SBH00118

3/8 inch drive x 18 inch breaker bar. Easily loosen rusted, overtightened nuts and bolts. Long handle offers sure two-handed grip and extra leverage.

www.tekton.com

That's a nice looking ratchet! Maybe I can justify that and putting the breaker bar back in the toolbox... Another pound or two.

I need to crawl under the rear at some point and check the depths on the leaf spring nuts/bolts - with the right 21mm socket I may be able to ditch the 21mm combo wrench also...

 

[craig333]

Unfortunately AAA won't come to the places I go and the guys that will don't come cheap. I can't fix everything but I want the tools for the stuff I can. Weight isn't an issue for my truck so I don't mind carrying a few extra parts.
I use this trip report for motivation. https://lighthawkphoto.wordpress.com/2018/01/04/death-valley-christmas-2017-part-ii/

 

[1leglance]

That's a nice looking ratchet! Maybe I can justify that and putting the breaker bar back in the toolbox... Another pound or two.

I need to crawl under the rear at some point and check the depths on the leaf spring nuts/bolts - with the right 21mm socket I may be able to ditch the 21mm combo wrench also...

@Herbie I use mine for the lug nuts, hub nuts and anything else that needs big umph, nice thing is with your extension tube you should be able to save weight with the things it replaces.

 

[krick3tt]

I use a breaker bar for my wheel (lug) nuts. Really gets the torque right, instead of the flimsy lug wrench supplied with most vehicles. I suppose if I really wanted a bent socket wrench I could just heat the handle on mine and bend it in the vice.

 

[jgaz]

I know what you mean when you said you had torx head screws that were recessed and not accessible with a multi bit driver.
I substituted the necessary sizes of these 2” bits to remove the recessed screws on my Jeep, especially on the steering column shroud.

Bosch CCSTV208 8Piece Impact Tough Torx 2 Inch Power Bits with Clip for Custom Case System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073HTDXCD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zz9pFbAF1NGDB

 

[Herbie]

Yep. Not just tools - anything you wouldn't want your biggest friend to chuck at your head, shouldn't be loose in the vehicle. Half the reason I built the cabinet that houses our Porta Potti was because I got tired of the dance of trying to strap it down with cam loops - easier to slide it into a cabinet and latch it closed.

It's also one of the reason stuff like the Skottle ends up in my roof basket, when I could probably find room for it in the van - if I can't lash it down, I'd rather have it outside.

 

[southpier13]

reminds me of a story i heard years ago. something about losing your head over a little a**.

 

[BigSwede]

Lately I've been wondering if I am carrying too many tools. The tools I carry I used a fair amount when I was into rock crawling, but these days I don't do as much obstacle-conquering and I haven't used my tools for quite a while... on my rig anyway. I have used them on others. Another reason is these days I am driving a Toyota.

 

[BigSwede]

Consider striping your socket sets down to 1/4 and 1/2 inch only with no overlaps in sizes and only sizes you need for your vehicle.

Bahco (Swedish company) has a nice set (S106) that follows this plan, and it's good stuff too: https://www.newark.com/bahco/s106/s...hopping-NewStructure-Tools-ProductionSupplies
Prices vary widely in the US so check around, this is the cheapest I see out there right now.

 

[Herbie]

OK, I've finished going through the kit.

These are all the tools I have removed:



As addressed above, the biggest item is the Bogert SafeJack and jackstand kit.
Also removed:
Redundant sockets, adjustable wrenches, allen sets, channel locks, and fixed screw/torx drivers.
Went through the suspension bits that I periodically nut/bolt, etc. and decided it was safe to remove one combo wrench as well.
Per discussion upthread, I swapped the telescoping 1/2" ratchet and 1/2" breaker bar in favor of a 14" Tekton 1/2" ratchet. Also removed the torque-meter adapter.
Removed the factory ratcheting handle for the scissor jack since I can drive it with ratchet and 22mm socket.
From the electrical kit I removed the tire/speedo programmer and the spare IQ4 module for the IOTA battery charger, and downsized the # of spare batteries I carry for the multimeter, etc.

Removing all of these items and condensing the remaining kit into an Adventure Tool Company ShopRoll (Thanks, @BritKLR!) also let me delete all the bags above (2x tool rolls, 2x Husky zipper bags, and the tool bag for the Bogert kit.)
Conservatively, this is about 35 pounds removed.

This post would be worthless without the resulting tool porn:



The bag at upper right is a cheap Rothco Tanker's tool bag that I use to hold the jack and other long tool items. (Mostly to keep the jack's greased leadscrew from getting anything else... er, greasy.)

The open orange-and-clear box mid-frame is the Black and Decker brand 1/4" Hex bit set I've had for a few ears. Wisely, B&D supplied twice as many empty bit slots as they did bits, so I was able to add the necessary bits to replace the allen and torx driver sizes from the sets I removed. (I was able to find some nice 60mm long torx bits so I can reach the recessed fasteners without dedicated drivers.)



Everything packs away with a little room to spare... (for when I figure out which tools I should have left in.)


Thanks to everyone for their feedback. I'm going to run with this kit for a while and see how it goes!