Toyota axles in a Jeep WJ

[Fergie]

Once upon a time, I swapped in a 5 lug Taco axle under my '95 XJ; I'm talking rear axle here. I'd like to do the same to my WJ, and have not been looking at Taco axles again, but possibly 80 or 60 series axles.

I'm not too concerned about the rear axle this time either, but have been contemplating how I would go about re-tubing the front axle from a cruiser, so that stock axles are useable(just on opposite sides), but wonder if the steering set-ups would even come close to being compatible.

I'm open to anything, so feel free to bounce ideas off me, or let me know how crazy I am.

The reason I'm thinking all of this out, is that I like the size of the WJ platform, but the drivetrain lacks dependability and parts availability in other areas. Short if buying a completely different vehicle, I'd like to explore this route first.

Thanks

G

 

[geeze]

I am interested in this also, is there a good page that gives good infomation on Toyota axles.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Pass drop to driver drops have and can be done. Requires a bit of work but completely doable. Steering on an 80 series will have the DL behind the axle, however with a 40/55/60 axle the DL will be in front of the TR, so it should be easy enough? I've never heard of a swap into a WJ, however I've sold axle setups to guys in CJ's and Series Rovers.

 

[prepmech]

Re-tubing the axle would be a lot more of a pain than just starting off with an axle that is a drivers side drop to begin with, or using a new center section.

I'm not familiar with toyota axles, are they the same axles front and rear? Could you take a rear axle housing and cut it down to make a front axle housing out of it?

Another option would be the JK axles. They fit without as many mods as it would take to get the toy axles to fit.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

The design of the Toyota axle wouldn't actually require a re-tube to switch the drop, however the end work is nearly the same as a standard Dana'esque re-tube.

 

[Fergie]

I am interested in this also, is there a good page that gives good infomation on Toyota axles.

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

Pass drop to driver drops have and can be done. Requires a bit of work but completely doable. Steering on an 80 series will have the DL behind the axle, however with a 40/55/60 axle the DL will be in front of the TR, so it should be easy enough? I've never heard of a swap into a WJ, however I've sold axle setups to guys in CJ's and Series Rovers.

The DL was what I was worrying about. I don't believe there wil be enough clearance to the oilpan if I use an 80 axle. Off the top of your head, do you know the WMS-WMS of a 80 front verus a 60 front?

Re-tubing the axle would be a lot more of a pain than just starting off with an axle that is a drivers side drop to begin with, or using a new center section.

I'm not familiar with toyota axles, are they the same axles front and rear? Could you take a rear axle housing and cut it down to make a front axle housing out of it?

Another option would be the JK axles. They fit without as many mods as it would take to get the toy axles to fit.

I'm somewhat familiar with older Toy axles, and know that they can't be retubed the way Dana axles can, is this the case with 80 and 60 series axles?

I could always go with a diamond type axle, but that eliminates the cost benefit I'm trying to keep.

The JK axles might work for the front, but the same amount of fab work is required for the rear, no matter what type I go with...damn A-arm upper!

I'm also trying to get away from the odd ball 5x5 BP that the WJ uses, to either a standard Ford or Toyota BP.

I would really love the possibility of using Toy 3rd members too...in case of breakdowns and such.

 

[juicexj24]

http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum//showthread.php?t=12701

That is a link to a build-up of a WJ that has some good info a 9" Ford axles for the rear. Might be helpful for you.

 

[ntsqd]

I'm curious what the motivation is for that particular axle choice. Seems like there would be other option(s) that were less effort to yield the equivalent or at least the maximum needed strength.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I'm curious what the motivation is for that particular axle choice. Seems like there would be other option(s) that were less effort to yield the equivalent or at least the maximum needed strength.

His motivation is worldwide spares availability. As far as that's concerned, the LC 9.25" axle is about as universal as any axle, rivaled only by Land Rover stuff. My guess is you'd find 40 and 80 series axles in just about every corner of the world. I'd bet the 80 series would be a safe choice, due to their use by the UN and that they are all the same basically. The 40 series I'd bet would be a toss up between what you'd find, course and fine spine axles.

 

[ntsqd]

Arguably the same could be said for Dana/Salisbury axles. Nothing against the Toyota axles (I own 4 sets of various versions), just seems like tabbing a set of Dana's to fit the stock suspension would be less work.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Arguably the same could be said for Dana/Salisbury axles. Nothing against the Toyota axles (I own 4 sets of various versions), just seems like tabbing a set of Dana's to fit the stock suspension would be less work.

Fer sure, probably can even get off the shelf Dana axles from someone that will be a weekend of work to get in. No messing with welding, 5 or 6 lugs, steering, etc. I'd had thought that something like a Dana 60 would be common enough to find parts for, too. I suppose you have to draw a line someplace and say that's good enough for commonality, eh?

 

[Root Moose]

As much as I like the Toyota stuff I think it might be too much of a PITA to go with the FZJ style stuff. The earlier FJ stuff will be too narrow. FZJ is ~63.5" wide. Earlier FJ stuff is narrower. IIRC ~56-58" wide.

The rear is offset which means pretty much having to go with custom shafts to center the differential... unless you swap t-cases as well. Things are starting to snow ball at that point and you've negated the reason behind going with the TLC stuff (relatively common everywhere). That and you'd have a hard time making me give up the flexibility of options with the NV242 transfer case.

I like the idea of the Mopar JK axle and the Mopar Dana 60 for the rear (export axles). They can be gotten in 5 on 5.5" pattern so it is more common. I converted my XJ to 5 on 5.5" so I know how you can get stuck on doing something like this. ;D

Doing the rear axle is not that big a deal is it? Besides, doing the Toyota swaps has the same issues that way.

I've got some various axle widths collected here: http://moose.ca/axle_widths

HTH

 

[Fergie]

I'm curious what the motivation is for that particular axle choice. Seems like there would be other option(s) that were less effort to yield the equivalent or at least the maximum needed strength.

Changing the rear axle will take the same amount of fab work no matter what type of axle I go with. I'll still need to add a bridge for the UCA mount, and adapt the brakes.

The front is what I am more concerned about

No matter what I do, I want to avoid custom axle shaft length, milling out brake rotors or anything of tha nature. I want commmon, off the shelf/junk yard available parts.

Both Toyota and Dana match that criteria, I just need to figure out the best combination.

 

[lowenbrau]

A few things to know...

Front axle shafts,
40, 60, 70 series and SFA minitruck short side axle shafts are all interchangeable.
60, 70 and SFA minitruck long side axle shafts are all interchangeable. These parts are very easy to source in most of the world.

Swapping to a left side drop would be no harder than doing a knuckle cut and turn. Nearly every springover Land Cruiser has had this done and it it well documented. Just swap the knuckle balls side to side.

Unless the rig is going to be vrey heavy I'd stick to minitruck stuff for a project like this. The 8" ring gear is up to nearly any task and the additional 3/4" off diff clearance comes in very handy.

 

[ntsqd]

If I might make a suggestion then? Start a notebook on the vehicle and always keep it in the vehicle. On the vintage race cars that I worked on we used 5 subject spiral bound notebooks. Any page or print-out that needed to be added to it got stapled in. Much more secure than a 3 ring.

Each subject was some aspect of the vehicle. Service part part-numbers, wear part sources, sketches of proposed modifications, tune-up specs, carb jets & trans ratios for different tracks, laps times or at least number of laps run, atmospheric conditions of each track day, etc.

Totally agree on only using unmodified, off the shelf wear parts. I don't understand why more folks don't do this.