So the battery in my at chaser died. I have a single group 31 that runs the fridge and a few 12v outlets, but no inverter or anything big. It was a flooded style 115ah exile nautilus and only lasted 2 years. In looking for the replacement I have found a lifeline group 8dl 255ah that I think I could shoehorn into the tongue box. I keep the trailer plugged in to a noco genius 1 10amp charger before the trips and maintained by the 7pin while driving. It would be nice to have the extra ah for longer stays. Are there any issues with going to a bigger battery? As it is there are occasional 4 day stays where the group 31 gets run down all the way. However, often times there are just overnighters which would barely discharge the 8dl. Hoping someone can break down some recommendations for a good replacement battery and educate me in the process. Thanks in advance yall.
Trailer battery
- Thread starter A_beer
- Start date
You are very wise to stop buying "dual use" pseudo deep cycle in a scenario requiring true deep cycle.
But I would only spend the bucks on a Lifeline if I **knew**
A. I would hardly ever take it below 50%, like twice a year. Either get a charge in there earlier or go for a bigger bank.
And B. I knew I could get it back up to 100% Full SoC the vast majority of cycles, really shoot for over 90% of the time. When boondocking that means solar and/or a little genny. . .
Otherwise, choices are:
1. stick to $180 per pair of Sam's/Batteries+ Duracell/East Penn 240AH GC2s. Yes you'll replace them every 2-3 years but at least they're the cheapest true deep cycle.
2. Firefly Oasis G31 $500 per 100AH, the only lead bank doesn't get murdered by chronic PSOC abuse.
3. LiFePO4 even better but much pricier and different from lead, thus risky
I recommend #1 in any case, if you learn how to make them last four years then buy your spendier bank.
Get a good SoC monitor like SmartGauge.
But I would only spend the bucks on a Lifeline if I **knew**
A. I would hardly ever take it below 50%, like twice a year. Either get a charge in there earlier or go for a bigger bank.
And B. I knew I could get it back up to 100% Full SoC the vast majority of cycles, really shoot for over 90% of the time. When boondocking that means solar and/or a little genny. . .
Otherwise, choices are:
1. stick to $180 per pair of Sam's/Batteries+ Duracell/East Penn 240AH GC2s. Yes you'll replace them every 2-3 years but at least they're the cheapest true deep cycle.
2. Firefly Oasis G31 $500 per 100AH, the only lead bank doesn't get murdered by chronic PSOC abuse.
3. LiFePO4 even better but much pricier and different from lead, thus risky
I recommend #1 in any case, if you learn how to make them last four years then buy your spendier bank.
Get a good SoC monitor like SmartGauge.
Thanks for the input. Do you know if I need a different charger than the noco if I series 2 6v together? The gc2 seem like a pretty cost effective way to get a huge increase in ah.
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The gen1 is a 10amp.
Nothing wrong with Deka, =East Penn, in fact they make the GC2 s I'm recommending.
But most G31s and other automotive form factors sold in the US are not true deep cycle, and the distinction is important.
Those GC2s are by far the best value for money
Bbasso
Expedition goofball
While I like the idea of having a cheap and disposable battery for power needs, I don't like the idea of all the consumables being used therefore that's why I went with two AGM batteries, solar panels, charger, the whole system, so maybe once every five years I'll need to replace a component or something.
Just trying to be a little green...
Just trying to be a little green...