Trailer Frame Tube vs C-Chanel

thethePete

Explorer
Feel free to disagree, but I've seen it in real world application for years. Channel is stronger, but only in one plane. 100-wall tubing is plenty strong for crossers, but step up to .125 if you feel the need. I've never seen it fail in practice and many of these trailers have seen high point-loading. Channel WILL accumulate dirt and debris. Period. It has a ledge for debris to sit on, and it will. Full stop.

Your 8' span is a very unrealistic situation, and is also false. My father is 250lbs and I've seen him stand in the middle of a crosser with mild deflection. My 180lb butt doesn't really make it move an appreciable amount; also considering the MAX allowed with for a trailer is 101", the odds of your middle spans actually being over 7'6" are slim, especially if you want to take this thing down any sort of trail. Furthermore, you're painting a situation where you have zero decking to add structural rigidity, and you're overbuilding for no reason. Ever try and stand a studwall up without sheeting on it? I could push on one side and have the whole thing collapse. Put some sheeting on it and it's strong enough to hold up a roof. The ONLY scenario where I could see channel being a viable alternative, would be to do it with the "c" pointed downward, and only for crossers. This would keep dirt from accumulating, and may give you some strength back while keeping weight down. I still feel that you'd be adding too much unnecessary material for no real reason. I'd be interested in seeing the same overall design done in tubing and in channel, thrown into some solidworks stress analysis. Our trailer building days were before the prevalence of computer design. AutoCAD was the only player in the game and it was strictly for industrial use, not a small shop.

If you build a quality product of any nature, and people are unwilling to pay for it, you can't exactly keep your buisness sustained. I think you underestimate the average person's idea of cost v reliability. You've isolated yourself in a group of people who feel that there is no kill like overkill, and you're forgetting that there's a reason so many things are made in China and are considered disposable in our world. Hell, even cars are disposable compared to 20+ years ago. Way to slam my father's business in an effort to "prove your point" though. He felt the same way. He built 1 trailer with a reasonable margin for the 5 cheap ones that were sold down the road. Guess what, that doesn't make a very sustainable buisness model, and if you don't live in a major urban centre, good luck with making it up on volume. We're in the middle of bum-**** nowhere. We have no wheeling mecca to apeal to. We have no major population base of well-off people to draw from. We live in a smallish mill town full of tradesmen and construction workers. He made a valiant effort for 5 years and made solid, quality products while he was open. Several of his fixtures are still around town and I still see some of his trailers running around from time to tome. I think we had a total run of about 120ish trailers leave the building in that time, as well as many other structural projects, and various fab work. I know what I know because I have seen it work, and the trailers we build 15 years ago are still running around doing what they do and looking almost as good as the day they were built. I have no skin in this game, I'm simply conveying what I know.

tgreening: thanks for the supporting input. It's hard arguing with e-fabbers and people who've only ever built stuff in solidworks. I'm a licensed, career mechanic, and I grew up in a fabricating household. Pops always said, there's two kindsa smart in this world...
 

Strider

Observer
Interesting.
Is it better to make the tongue separate and out of different material than the frame or can it be all one piece?
 

tgreening

Expedition Leader
Interesting.
Is it better to make the tongue separate and out of different material than the frame or can it be all one piece?


I see no reason why not to stick with the tube. Go through some of the off road trailer builds on here. They are by FAR done with box tubing vs anything else, and I've yet to hear of one failing due to the tube. Bad design and/or weld here and there, but never the material.

In reality you're not building some massive load hauler so no matter which way you go it's likely to work out fine as long as you follow good building practices, but the tube just plain looks better, so why not?
 

Capt Eddie

Adventurer
thethepete. You said all that I was trying to say. "Channel is stronger, but only on one plane." I am in no way trying to disrespect your family business. We both have the same business philosophy. Build the best product that you can. I am sorry for any disrespect you may have gotten from my post.
 

thethePete

Explorer
Fair enough, and sorry, it sounded kinda like a potshot at our business in order to discredit my words. I spend a lot of time on forums with a much lower average age and mentality, so it's kind of a kneejerk reaction. The problems with communication via text. God bless being able to converse like adults. I've also been pretty loaded with stress, so I'm probably a bit more sensitive than usual. It's a damn shame more people can't realize the value of quality work.

Strider: Generally we did a 4x4 or 3x3 x.250 for the tongue, extend it at least half way back to your axle and weld it to every crosser on the way back, triangulate a tube from each front corner to at least half way up the tongue, and you can probably get away with 2x2x.125 for the braces out from the corners of the trailer. We liked to bring ours under the edge of the trailer and weld it to the front and side bar as it intersected them (if that makes sense to you). Cap the tubing at the end on the side. Also makes a convenient shield for your required side marker light to keep it from getting bashed off on the trail. (something else to consider re: the strength of the crossers, they're loaded in tension between the sides of the trailer, if you use sufficient perimeter material, the crossers can be slightly lighter material, as deflection becomes less of an issue. Lots to consider in the design to trim weight and maintain strength.
 

Strider

Observer
Thanks again to everybody for the input! Some really great and invaluable information!
I will get the material and start on the frame once it warms up around here. Snowing today and I have no garage so welding isn't an option yet.
Strider
 

Capt Eddie

Adventurer
A relatively tight welded tube is a solar still. The air that enters will break down and form water. Add in the relative humidity and changing temperatures and sweating evolves. Per scientist way smarter then my. If you close off a container. Not totally airtight as a normal welder would leave. The tube will make water just like a still. The welds seal in the water but not air. so the air continues to make water and the water is trapped in the tube. Then add any water that enters thought the holes in the welds. The water freezes and burst the tube walls. I have to replace a lot of burst tubing on wrought iron fencing. I leave a drilled weep hole in the tube to drain the water. I would have thought that be now a real smart scientist would have stepped up and confirmed or denied the uses of tubing in this application. I do use tubing a lot. It is easy to work with in a lot of ways. but it is hard to attach wood to it. I use it more for cosmetic applications that structural applications.
 

Capt Eddie

Adventurer
5/16 to 1/2. Make sure to shake out any metal or dirt from the tube before you weld it. I tried 1/4 but the smallest slivers on metal clogged them up.
 

Strider

Observer
OK
Sounds good.

I plan on pouring in some anti-rust paint after welding and sloshing it around to coat the inside. Been considering some cheap differential oil too-from my experience that stuff is very difficult to take off, so perhaps it will add to the rust inhibition.
 

jwiereng

Active member
I find this topic to be interesting and controversial.

I also wonder why so few people galvanize their projects. There are 2 galvanizing plants within 45 minutes of my house. I have used the closer plant to galvanize a rack I built. There is a minimum charge and it is expensive but never having to sandblast and repaint a project is worth the price of admission.:coffee:

How much did your hot dip job cost? Could you avoid the minimum charge by cooperating with another local fabricator and add to thier order?

HDG trailers around these parts cost as much as painted ones, but certainly fair better on our salty winter roads.
 

flatwerx

New member
Reviving a super old thread so I don't clutter up with a new one.

I have a 1946 Bantam T3-C trailer that I want to reinforce and build a different box for. Its all done in C channel. Would it make sense to reinforce with C or tube?
This trailer will have a RTT, sink, stove, 25 gallons of water, water heater, 30lbs of propane, 4 gallons of fuel, recovery gear, fridge, solar/batteries, 35" tires with spare tire mounted on swing out, and storage. Already have a 3500lb axle and new CJ2A leaf springs and they will be going on top of the axle (may look into trailing arms later and want to make sure C channel will be good to mount this to).
The box will be similar to a Patriot Camper X1-N and a Turtleback Expedition (scaled down to fit on the size of a Bantam T3-C).
I was going to build a frame but if I can reinforce and repurpose this, why not? The trailer and frame are in amazing condition and I have been using it quite a bit on off-road/overlanding trips. Just want something a little more without spending a ton.
 

The Last Cowboy

New member
If that Bantam is in decent shape, it's worth quite a bit. If it's in fair shape, and is restore-able, then restore it or clean it up and sell it to someone who will. It would be a shame to see another one of those great old Jeep trailers get cut up.

By all means though, if it's seen better days, then giving it a new life by building it to suit your needs is better than scraping it.
 
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