Trailer hitch connection?

Willman

Active member
I just got a Post-WWII Light Duty Civilian Utility Trailer (Bantam BT3-C).......It even matches my Taco!:wings:

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/HubbardTrailers/Bantam3.html

I need to mount one of those offroad hitch like this one from Adventure Trailers. This is a great shot from Scott B's Adventure Trailer writeup.

IMG_9730.jpg


What are you guys using on your trailers for a connection??? (Ball, pintle hook, 360' off-road one maybe custom)

Also....If you have one of those 360' offroad hitch...where did you buy it??? (details please)..I would love to hear from people who have are building their trailers and have picked out a hitch setup. Also would love to know what King Camper and other brands use for a hitch setup....And everyone else too....

Thanks!

:jumping:
 
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Tucson T4R

Expedition Leader
I have King Kamper off road trailer and it uses the Tregg hitch. So far it has working perfectly for me in many high articulation challenges. I like it. I'm not sure where you find one in the US, mine just came on the trailer.

Tregg2.jpg


Tregg1.jpg
 

Willman

Active member
Desertdude said:
You might want to check if the Tregg is DOT approved in the USA

Good Question...Brads using one on his King Camper.....you would think that it should be...

:)
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
There is no such thing as "DOT Approved". Our Federal DOT does not approve or disapprove anything. What they do is set minimum acceptable performance standards for vehicular parts. As an MFG when you stamp "DOT" on your product your are certifying that your parts do meet the applicable stds. If one of your parts is determined to have been a cause or partial cause of an accident you'd better have the independent testing lab results showing compliance and the QC documentation showing that subsequent parts were made to the same level of quality.
The German TUV, though, does test & approve vehicular products. Curiously, they use our DOT stds for nearly everything. So a TUV approved part is by default "DOT Approved."

As to the Lock-n-Roll, I have one. There's one feature that I'm not impressed with. That is the swivel joint method, essentially a rivet in tension. I like the Tregg design for this feature soooo much better. The Tregg design copies the 1/4t trailer lunette's design, which has been around for a long time.
 

Bob_Sheaves

Observer
SIDEBAR Info

An an addendum, the "homebrewer" can make a better design out of some commonly available truck parts-a set of yokes from an 1810 truck ujoint equipped propshaft and scaling up the design of a ball locking hydraulic quick disconnect coupling.

Using the ujoint 1st yoke, machine a square hole in the tube end for a 2" hitch bar and weld securely (I am purposely leaving out the heat treating, annealing, specs etc so everyone has something to look up before attempting this...LOL). Install the 1810 joint to the yoke. This becomes the truck end of the hitch.

Using the second joint yoke, machine a round hole of 2.5" dia in the tube side to insert a machined spud shaft with a retaining ring and groove for the ball retention. Now you would machine a coupler with a sliding sleeve with the ball ramps included and assemble with 12 1/4" dia hardened steel balls. This coupler allows rotation through the ball coupling, fore aft rotation thru the joint, and left right rotation thru the joint also.

Just an idea guys.....

Best as always,

Bob Sheaves
CEO
catNET Incorporated
http://www.catnetsolutions.com/
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Bob, Just b4 finding the Lock-n-Roll patent back in about '98 or '99 (FEF here may recall better) I designed something much like you describe. My goal was a patent on my idea.
Initially I looked at UJ's (though not as big as the 1810 series) and found them lacking. Memory is dim, what I recall was the bending loads on the cross and tear-out of the ears were suspect. Which I recall making me wonder HTH the Jag IRS' got away with it. Not being all that familiar with larger UJ's (1350's being the largest I've handled) I've no idea of scale. It certainly sounds like it could be large enough.

Getting enough bearing area, fatigue life, etc. inside a 2" sq x .25 wall tube for the "wrist action" took several iterations, but it's doable. I limited myself to 2" tube for the purpose of being able to use std socket receivers on both ends. I do not think that the 2.5" sockets were available then. If they were, I certainly wasn't aware of them.
 

Desertdude

Expedition Leader
Interesting info...


On one of my trailers, the LocknRoll hitch section between the rivet and the ears, twisted (as in reshaped) - (I later guessed it could have been due to possibly jack-knifing a bit during a tight turn around) still not 100% sure how it could twist?
 

Bob_Sheaves

Observer
ntsqd said:
Bob, Just b4 finding the Lock-n-Roll patent back in about '98 or '99 (FEF here may recall better) I designed something much like you describe. My goal was a patent on my idea.
Initially I looked at UJ's (though not as big as the 1810 series) and found them lacking. Memory is dim, what I recall was the bending loads on the cross and tear-out of the ears were suspect. Which I recall making me wonder HTH the Jag IRS' got away with it. Not being all that familiar with larger UJ's (1350's being the largest I've handled) I've no idea of scale. It certainly sounds like it could be large enough.

Getting enough bearing area, fatigue life, etc. inside a 2" sq x .25 wall tube for the "wrist action" took several iterations, but it's doable. I limited myself to 2" tube for the purpose of being able to use std socket receivers on both ends. I do not think that the 2.5" sockets were available then. If they were, I certainly wasn't aware of them.
The 1810 joint is about 6" across the flats of the bearing cups when installed and are all forged (not cast) with a shank diameter of around 2" in diameter. Don't hold me to these dimensions-I am working from memory here, and you know what they say about us old guys and our memory.... :)

The ears of the yokes are some 1.5" thick and are of a bolt in cup design for the joint bearings.

ADDENDUM: The 2.5" dia spud shaft would be on the trailer tongue side of the hitch assembly, so you could pull the QR sleeve and remove the complete coupler from the trailer, leaving only that 2.5" dia spud sticking out horizontally from the tongue and no way to connect any type of ball to steal it.

Best as always,

Bob Sheaves
CEO
catNET Incorporated
http://www.catnetsolutions.com
 
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ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Bob_Sheaves said:
....
Don't hold me to these dimensions-I am working from memory here, and you know what they say about us old guys and our memory.... :)
What they say!
Heck, I experience it first hand daily.

Something like this:
coupler.jpg

I didn't follow your QD idea, so I just popped in something that probably wouldn't work well, but at least there's something there. This may be helpful for some. :dunno:
Oh, Bob, were you thinking along the lines of an air hose QD, with it's captured balls & sliding sleave?
 

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