Trans America Trail: A month's journey in a 96 Jeep XJ.

NHenson

Observer
TAT IV Day 4: Thursday, July 21, 2011


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We stayed at the Executive Inn. It sounds a lot more prestigious than it actually was. No one minded though as we cooked food on our camp stove just outside the room :) .

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Aaron and his Triumph Tiger.​

In the evening of Day 3, our friend Aaron Meyer joined our trip. Aaron rides a Triumph Tiger, and was excited to see how it would go on the trail. He stayed with us that night, and just having a friend come meet us made the night into a little party.
We got up reasonably early and packed up the hotel room. Somehow we managed to make a far greater mess with the addition of just one person--who had already eaten supper when he arrived--than usual. I don't know, we're just messy, I guess. Leaving Lakeview, we had to squeeze past a closed gate, and Aaron's motorcycle made it just fine. I got out and walked, leaving NH to the extremely tight squeeze for the Jeep, leaning far over and driving through marshy deep grass (it always seems that the most interesting photo opportunities are missed b/c you are too busy dealing with the situation at hand. . . this scenario being no exception - NH). He made it, though, and we went on through ranches until we came to a gate that we could not squeeze past. We were kerflummaxed for a while until we found a way to drive through the adjoining pasture and make it out to the road just a few feet ahead.

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Nathan, Erin, & Aaron after eating lunch at a beautiful and refreshing creek.​

Leaving the ranch land surrounding Lakeview and the area, we drove lots of bumpy, dusty pasture roads. Aaron got the first taste of probably the single most challenge-filled day of the entire TAT on those bumpy, uncomfortable trails. We drove some nice, smooth forest roads, and stopped for lunch by a beautiful creek. We hiked down, dipped our feet in the water, and ate our fill. We didn't want to leave, but knew we would be glad to have more trail behind us, so onward.

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Switching places with Aaron to ride the bike for a while. My goofy grin came from putting a sweat soaked riding jacket on - NH.​

We made it out to railroad grade, covered with a red volcano-y rock, very loose and just fine to drive the jeep on. It was tortuously difficult going on the motorcycle. Aaron's Triumph is a comparatively heavy bike for some of the looser sections of the trail, and he was immediately introduced to one of the very loosest sections of all. The bike was difficult to handle, requiring constant effort to keep it upright and moving in the right direction. We stopped to rest, and Aaron was drenched in sweat, tired of the road. NH was eager to ride the motorcycle, and took over for him. He was soon drenched in sweat himself, but made it to the end of that section.

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The Triumph was not a great match for the boulder strewn creek bottom that we happened across.​

Only to find even more challenging road ahead, if it can be called road. We began to drive a dirt road that soon became just a dry creek bed. NH was still handling the motorcycle while Aaron and I drove in the Jeep. Aaron was doing probably far better than I ever would maneuvering over the larger and larger rocks strewn in our path, but soon he became concerned with the scrapes and bumps the jeep was taking underneath. The going became slower and slower, but opening the windows to look at the placement of the tires proved a near fatal error--this was as mosquito-laden ground as the swamp of Arkansas where NH and I took on more mosquitoes than air when opening the doors. We swatted angrily and drove slowly, nearly as angry at the rockier and rockier ground as at the mosquitoes. The trail seemed to follow the creek bed, and then rose slightly to the right, leaving a small ravine dropping off to our left. Between rocks, the dirt was soft and dusty, and we began to mire a little, sinking and tipping left toward the ravine. Though the drop was not far at all, I had no desire to be winching the Jeep off its side, so we stopped and waited for NH to come back and find us so he could winch us to a better location.

A better location was not really to be found. The creek bed-trail got more and more difficult to navigate, and it began to be clear that we were expected to follow this section for several more miles. After NH laid the bike on its side, denting a side pannier and bending the brake handle, Aaron was not willing to go further. He was convinced that, had he been riding the bike, he would have laid it down at least as early as NH did, but didn't feel that he could risk more damage to his motorcycle. I was sick enough trying to coax the Jeep over impassible ground to agree with him, and after a short hike ahead to see whether anything would change, NH was soon persuaded to agree as well. The creek bed may have at one time been DSCN0462graded into a road of sorts, but too much time had dropped too many large rocks (and a multitude of mid-sized ones), too many trees, and had washed out too much good ground to make driving over it a practicable thing. Had we begun the section at the beginning of the day, we may have made it through in a day. Or perhaps not--we may well have come to an impasse and had to pick our way back out of it. We decided it was not worth it.

We found a place where the bank was not too steep or too strewn with fallen trees, and drove up to the right of the dry creek bed, now located in a deep ravine. Up above the valley, we drove across a pasture and came within sight of a two-track, a beautiful sight to behold after the 5th circle of hell we had just driven through. Within sight, but not on. A single barbed wire blocked our path. We found that the wire was anchored at points far enough from one another to allow us to lift the wire so that Aaron could ride under it. And, reaching as high as they both could over their heads, Aaron and NH were able to hold the wire up just high enough for me to drive the Jeep under, as well. We were happy to have made it underneath--I think we would have cut the wire and tried to repair it if necessary, we were so eager to get away from that awful creek bed.

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As we pulled up to this corner the Jeep died.​

We just made it to a real road, and stopped at the intersection to navigate the turn. Then the Jeep died. And wouldn’t start. I pulled out a granola bar, despairing of ever getting to a nice camping spot. NH and Aaron pragmatically looked under the hood. After some more tries at starting, and a little analysis, NH decided that the O2 sensor wire had come loose and was rubbing against the drive line, which caused it to short out and blow the fuse for the Jeep’s computer. Fortunately, NH carries extra fuses with him. Unfortunately, he blew a couple before he got it right. Fortunately, he had just enough fuses. NH also carries plenty of zip ties, and he used one to put the O2 sensor wire where he wanted it. The Jeep started up, and we were off, happy for a comparatively simple fix.

More bumpy, miserable pasture paths until nearly dark, and then we made it to some more of that fine forest gravel road. Better still, we found a lovely lake, Thompson Reservoir, to camp at. We set up camp and made some tasty supper before turning in to bed. – Written by EH


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Thompson Reservoir​
 
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NHenson

Observer
TAT IV Day 5: Friday, July 22, 2011

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Smooth roads, nice trees, and mountains.​

We left Silver Lake at 11:00a. Sometime during that difficult day's riding, a master link in Aaron's chain had stretched, so he decided to ride immediately for Bend, Oregon, where he found a place that would sell him a new chain. Out of Silver Lake we had nice smooth roads, and the going was good. We were sure that we would make it past Gilcrest, with easy going and an early camp that night, still leaving us a leisurely ride to the coast next day, there was so little trail and so much time left. But then the computer crashed. The result of too much jolting on a hard drive with delicate moving parts, the poor laptop gave us the blue screen of death. We had been using the roll charts and maps first and foremost for navigation, but having ordered the materials months before our first trip, 4 years earlier, and not having spent the money to purchase updated maps, we had begun to rely more and more on the GPS for back-up when we found roads closed or otherwise had trouble deciphering our way.

Without use of the laptop, we required better exercise of our navigation skills, and more time simply figuring things out when the reality of the road conflicted with our old roll chart directions and maps. Some of the maps are in very close detail, but just our luck, this portion of the trail had maps that were less detailed. Near Mowach Springs we got lost. However, after one half to three quarters of an hour, we found our way out, and made it to Gilcrest by 3 or 3:30p. We stopped and rinsed our feet in the sprinklers near the store, then went in and made a few small purchases. We decided to push for Tiller in hopes of a hotel, because NH had homework to do, and without a working computer, a hotel was the only way we would get work done.

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Rhododendron Ridge​

It was not to be. We had wonderful roads, and as we climbed up Windigo Pass, drove over (very old) snow. The next section of the trail was possibly the best of the trip, a section that we are tempted to drive again with our friends Mark, his wife, and their little 'un. Or really, anyone else we can convince to come down there. Rhododendron Ridge is an aptly named, green stretch of mountain. Though June, the year was cool enough that the rhododendron were still in bloom (though nearer the end than the beginning--there were mostly beautiful pink blossoms, but no buds, and a few had already faded). Entire hilsides were thickly sprinkled with pink rhododendron in a way that, of course, my little camera would not capture. I did get some shots of individual blooms, however. I think if we go again, we will either try earlier in the summer, or go after another very late spring, if it can be managed. The effect of all those flowers was incredible.

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Mountains of Oregon with trees that reach for the skies.​

When the rhododendron ended, the forest became, if possible, only more beautiful. We drove through some of the tallest, straightest pines I've ever seen. Not massive like the redwoods of California, but TALL, reaching for the clouds, and with yellow moss hanging from their limbs. Shafts of sunlight broke through the pines and enlivened the moss, which glowed gold in the sun. I decided that the artists who depicted the fairy forests in cartoons like Snow White must have driven through that forest, because it was exactly like a picture of fairyland from the 1950's.

We finally dropped off the ridge, and as we descended in elevation, we saw more deciduous trees, green everywhere, and--to our surprise--fewer mosquitoes by far than on the other side of the ridge.

We were very close to Tiller, kept on seeing signs for it, but could find neither the trail nor the town. We wandered around in frustration for an hour until we finally gave up sticking to the trail, under the assumption that we had driven it all plus much more. We did make it into Tiller late, and after dark, and there was no hotel to be found. We camped in the yard of a church. I was not happy about it. That is such an understatement that I should probably write more, but I won't. The end of a long trip and the accumulation of several small stresses had a vent that night. – Written by EH


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Tiller, OR: a place I would like to visit again - NH​
 
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NHenson

Observer
TAT IV Day 6: Saturday, July 23, 2011 (Final day of the TAT)

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These trees simply dwarfed the Jeep.​

The next morning we awoke to members of the church driving in and wondering what on earth we were doing. It was Saturday, but several families had agreed to meet for a fishing trip. NH explained our predicament, and they were mostly nice about it, if they did think we were a couple of weird hippies for parking in their lawn. I waited to emerge until the entire convoy had left. Then we ate breakfast and kept going. We drove over more hills, and through still more of the very tall, mossy trees. They were still awe-inspiring, but something of the magic from the sunlight illuminating the moss was missing. We kept getting lost, too. One section of trail had a tree over the road which, had we had a chainsaw and a lot of determination, we might have gotten through. But the trees were too thick and the banks too steep on either side to drive around, and there was no making it over a tree so big. We had to turn around.

The road was pretty good, and NH drove pretty fast. I think it was just the night before that I had scolded him on driving quite so fast around bendy roads. My fear was coming upon a vehicle that was driving equally fast. Mostly the roads on the TAT don't allow for two vehicles to drive on them. Both have to pull over and inch past one another. So far, every time we met another vehicle, NH was able to pull over sufficiently and slow down enough so that they got nothing worse than a cloud of dust in the face. But still, I had my complaints. NH mostly ignored them.

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18 inches from going over the 15 foot drop off.​

On this morning, we were driving faster than I can recommend driving on a dirt road, as usual, when suddenly we rounded a corner and the road ahead ended. Well, washed out. There was a yawning ditch ahead, a good 15 feet wide, and just as deep on the lower side. No swerving would miss this cavern, so NH hit the brakes. I braced for...I'm not sure what...and the Jeep came to a skidding stop. 18 short inches before the edge. That is, the fronts of the tires were a slim 18 inches short of the brink...the bumper was that much closer. I think we were both shaking. NH got out and surveyed the close shave. We both cursed the local DOT or whoever else ought to have put up some sort of "road out ahead" sign, and I do not remember saying anything along the lines of "I told you so" about NH driving so fast. So we'll assume I left it to his conscience, which was plenty effective enough. After that, he took the corners a little slower.

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Bridge out. . . we had to cross a shallow creek.​

We still had to find a way to the end of the trail. With two roads blocked, we were having to make creative interpretations of the map. We did find a road, of sorts, that took us in the right direction. It also had a bridge out, which required us to drive down a steep gravelly hill that led down to where the creek was bubbling through. I walked down to get footage of NH driving through. Up the other side we drove basically through someone's back yard, but before we knew it, we were back on the road.

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Our first sight of the Oregon coast from over the coastal range.​

And then we had our fist glimpse of the coast. Already we could smell it, and the trail is planned in such a way that the first glimpse is a majestic one. I was eager for the beach.


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End of the TAT.

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This is where the roll charts ended.

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Nathan & Erin at the final TAT destination.​

The trail ends in an inconspicuous spot, at a stop sign. NH got out and took more pictures, but I was excited to get to the coast. I felt as though I needed to see the ocean in order to believe that we had really driven the length of the country. And in fact, we found a beach where vehicles may drive down onto the sand (local beach-goers do not like this, but the sign makes it pretty clear that it's allowed). You're not supposed to drive into the water, but NH could not resist driving close enough for the tires to get wet in an incoming wave. We looked out at the ocean, dug our toes in the sand, and marveled at our accomplishment. – Written by EH

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NHenson

Observer
Erin and Nathan, great read. I hope the fourth year is in our future.

I can't figure what tent you are using. Would you be able to provide some details, or point me to any spot in your blogs where you described the tent.

Bill

Bill: This tent is a Mombasa tent and was sold by rooftoptents. com This company no longer deals with tents, but you can find very similar ones by searching roof top tents.
 

JCMatthews

Tour Guide
Great thread, and accomplishment. I am curious how you fixed the rain gutter (drip edge) where the Yakima rack was mounted.
 

NHenson

Observer
Great thread, and accomplishment. I am curious how you fixed the rain gutter (drip edge) where the Yakima rack was mounted.

I pulled the trim strip off of the gutter completely and straightened the gutter. I then taped and sprayed the gutter with undercoating. The reason I did this is that it is nearly impossible to get new trim strips for that part of the body, or they were too cost prohibitive at that point. It would also be hard to get a trim strip off a used Jeep without damaging it.
 

JCMatthews

Tour Guide
I pulled the trim strip off of the gutter completely and straightened the gutter. I then taped and sprayed the gutter with undercoating. The reason I did this is that it is nearly impossible to get new trim strips for that part of the body, or they were too cost prohibitive at that point. It would also be hard to get a trim strip off a used Jeep without damaging it.

So did the undercoating provide enough friction to keep the Yakima towers in place?
 

NHenson

Observer
JCMatthews - The undercoating was just a protective finish. The gutter mount towers clamp sufficiently to the gutter on slick paint, so clamping to undercoating works as well.
 

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