Transfer tank for E350

silvrzuki77

explorer
Cross posting this from the general modification

Hey everyone, so I have a Ujoint converted 2009 E350 RB. I tow a Offroad tent trailer I built with airbag and 35's so it's not the most fuel efficient rig.

My plan is to use a 80's Chevy suburban 31 gallon tank and pump where my spare tire was after I cut the cross member out. Suburban tank is the perfect dimension and the fuel filler points right at the middle of my bumper so I can fab a rear fill mount pretty easy.

My stock e350 tank has a unused port on top that I plan to run the transfer tank to.
Obviously I will need to do some wiring and figure out a fuel gauge level.

I know ford had aft tanks for RV and Uhaul but so far super expensive to source.

Anything I'm missing that you guys can thing or can cause problems? Should I use a in tank pump from a later model or use a early version with a external fuel pump? Wondering if I need a evap canister.

Here's the tank I'm thinking of using.
7b26e1eff235108d77bbe937db786187.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

hobietony

Explorer
Even better would be to get a real 35 gallon aft tank - I have a complete aft tank system with tank, brackets, bolts and straps, gas sending/pickup unit. Say $200 plus whatever it takes to get it to you. 520-9five527sixnine. Tony
 

broncobowsher

Adventurer
Being a 2009 you are dealing with an OBD-II system. It monitors evaporative emissions. It will throw a check engine light if there is a small leak in the evaporative system. So I would be careful about how you splice in a transfer tank. But my thoughts...

That extra port may be a tap for upfitting. Designed as a tap to fuel a generator or other power equipment. It will be fine in the other direction, to add fuel. I doubt they went so far as to put a check valve in it. The only other thing I would add is a shut off solenoid to that fuel line. That way when the computer does the pressure/vacuum tests on the fuel tank looking for evaporative emissions leaks it won't find any, still a factory sealed system. The adding of fuel will push the vapor into the existing canister. So that should all work fine.

Now for adding a charcoal canister to the new tank. I actually like canisters. They don't hurt performance and the keep odors at bay. Cleaner for the environment is a bonus that I don't really care about but others might. I would find a later 80's or early 90's non-OBDII EFI canister system. Basicly a charcoal canister and solenoid. Plumb it is and let the engine control that solenoid in parallel to the existing solenoid. You add a second evap system controlled by the computer but not monitored.
 
Last edited:

silvrzuki77

explorer
Hobietony - I will be sending you a pm.

Broncobowsher- I know that valve on top doesn't have a pickup inside and I get what you are saving. Another suggestion was to add a T into the return line from the fuel filler along with a one way check valve. I agree on the Evap canister mostly to keep gas smell away.

I wouldn't be running the electric pump for the transfer tank off the actually vehicle just a dash mounted switch or even one on a timer maybe so I don't forget to shut it off and overfill?

Appreciate the input and suggestions!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

HenryJ

Expedition Leader
I think you are on the right track. Here is mine: BLT Offroad Avalanche The stock evap system should be able to handle both tanks. Tie them together. Use a stock fuel pump and sender. Those are easy to find and replace if ever needed. I really like the Dakota digital fuel guage Reads in gallons and easily calibrated to the sender.

You are going to love it. This is the third system I have done. The other two were on my old truck. The Avalanche is the one I like best.
 

silvrzuki77

explorer
Thanks HenryJ for the link to your build and the advice. I was getting ready to look into what to do about the fuel gauge.

So here is my plan.
Going to order a older suburban tank with a external aftermarket fuel pump. Framed mounted pump thats easy to get to that pumps into a T in my main fill tube. My stock Evap is right there so I can figure out how to tie in.

Think the biggest pain is going to be removing all the rivets for the stock tire carrier. Was going to do it yesterday at work but need to make a new mount for my Evap canister. Going to move the Evap as high as possible above the tank.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

silvrzuki77

explorer
Getting my order list in order for rock auto on Friday. This plans have changed a bit on which year I was going to use. Sticking with the newer in tank pump.

1990 chevy suburban 31 gallon fuel tank. $77
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=17411&cc=1301465&jsn=473

Intake fuel pump and sender $73
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1042805&cc=1301465&jsn=497

Fuel tank straps $18
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4305477&cc=1301465&jsn=506

Buying the big items than will pull the rest of the stuff as needed. Cutting the stock tire carrier is going to suck big time. Then start mocking up a tank, evaporating canister, skid plate for the tank.
 
So excited for this. I just did a 600 mile trip to a bluegrass festival and averaged 9.8mpg. Pretty disappointed but what else would I expect from a 4x4 V10 van on 35s with a huge rack and massive rocket box doing 75 down the interstate? With the modified main tank and losing a few gallons after the conversion I was starting to feel pushed for fuel at 260 miles. If this can be pulled off for $400-$500 or so dollars there will be a lot of happy campers with what you have done.
 

silvrzuki77

explorer
I'm hoping to be around $200-300. So could fit a lot of budget. Fabrication could be a problem for some. Obviously it won't be MG ************ but I have my CAD program...... cardboard aided design.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
188,201
Messages
2,903,720
Members
229,665
Latest member
SANelson

Members online

Top