Triple-purpose JK Build

jsmoriss

Explorer
how did you like hte jet chip stage one?? i am interested in it

It makes a difference, but I eventually replaced it with the SuperChips programmer to adjust the speedo too. The SuperChips also has different tunes for different octane levels, so I can change the tuning for whatever I find at the pumps.

js.
 

elmo_4_vt

Explorer
After a busy week of clearing stuff, here's what's left:

- Used Garvin Shovel and Axe Mount = $45 CDN (new is $99 USD) : quadratec.com/products/12041_106.htm
Note: There is no rust. The gray-ish discoloration is just anti-seize. :)

I can ship the smaller stuff. Pictures available upon request.

js.

I'm interested in this one... Can you send a picture and shipping to 19809

Don

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jsmoriss

Explorer
I'm interested in this one... Can you send a picture and shipping to 19809

Done.

And to anyone interested in parts, PM me for pictures, etc., so we keep this thread more or less on topic. :)

BTW, I still have a few tweeks planned for the trailer and Jeep, but being winter up here, pretty much everyone takes a break from tinkering. :)

js.
 

TCM

Adventurer, Overland Certified OC0006
- New 5 x Expeditionware Single Jerrycan Holder = $55 CDN ea (new is $75 USD) : expeditionexchange.com/jerrycanholders/

PM sent regarding these jerry can holders. I'll buy them if still available.
 

jsmoriss

Explorer
Cibie Oscar Aux Light Update

Here's a picture from September 2007:

20070910-181850-lx2-20095.jpg


We don't drive the Jeep much in winter, but after 3 winters now, the Cibies (on the front bumper, not the roof rack) were showing significant signs of rust. It probably didn't help that I took off those protective caps about a year ago and never bothered to put them back on. :)

I figure salt & water was getting in around the lens and where the front and back shells are fitted together. There are drain holes, which probably help, but once rust takes hold, there's not much you can do. So I took them apart this week-end, sanded off the rust, primed & painted them, and put them back together. This time, I used some high-temp black RTV around the reflector, and around the joint where both front and back pieces come together. I wiped off the excess so the silicone doesn't actually show. The RTV should keep the water out, and keep the salt from attacking the edges again.

I've also been working on the trailer for the past week or two. Some things are almost done, and I'll post pictures eventually. So far I've moved the table mount to one side (the old position in the center interfered with the kitchen door latch), changed the Zarges cases for larger ones, added some tie-downs to hold the awnings, removed the original velcro strips from the awnings (I'm going to replace them in the future anyway), and will add some special locks to the fridge soon, along with Australian-style stone guards in the front (canvas and mud flaps).

js.
 

leman

Adventurer
just wanted to say that this is one of my all time favorite build ups for a JK.:drool: i hope you dont mind if i steal some of your ideas on mine:coffeedrink:
 

jsmoriss

Explorer
A few updates on the trailer...

The Campa awnings use double-sided velcro to secure the rolls and I wasn't too fond of that method, so I decided to use bungee instead. It might be difficult to tell, but I've also switched out the Zarges cases for a larger model (23x23" instead of the original 23x15").

20100322-142844-jsmmv-lx2-50879.jpg


The footman loops allow the bungee loops to stay in place when the awnings are deployed. You can secure the bungee loops with one hand. I know it's a small detail, but as you all know from reading this thread, I'm a bit of a perfectionist. I'm really happy with the result. :)

20100322-142914-jsmmv-lx2-50881.jpg


I also added some stick-on locks for the fridge. I'm not sure when I'll actually use them - if ever - but if I need 'em, they'll be there. :)

20100322-142954-jsmmv-lx2-50884.jpg


Note that I've removed the insulating cover. I'm working on some additional insulation, and a wrap-around stone guard (including an australian-style skirt).

I used some aluminum bars to mount the cases. It makes for a real nice finish.

20100322-143019-jsmmv-lx2-50885.jpg


I've also moved the table mount to one side, making it easy to open both kitchen latches now. :)

20100322-143100-jsmmv-lx2-50887.jpg


As we (my handy father-in-law and I) planned the front australian-style skirts / mud guards, I decided to revisit the rear mud guard mounts as well. The mud guards were held on with washers and two bolts. The new mount uses a stainless plate and three bolts.

20100322-143132-jsmmv-lx2-50888.jpg


And finally I installed some black wheel locks to match those on the Jeep.

20100322-143149-jsmmv-lx2-50889.jpg


BTW, I often say "I" instead of "my father-in-law and I" to keep things easier to read. I couldn't do half this stuff without his help. :)

js.
 
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jsmoriss

Explorer
Not much has changed on the Jeep recently, except some needed maintenance to the roof rack and rear bumper. The roof rack uprights were showing signs of rust, with some pitting on the front ones. And the paint on one corner of the rear bumper was starting to bubble as well. So, a little sanding and painting took care of it for now. I'm happy to report that my under-hood air compressor can drive a grinder for short bursts, which is long enough to grind away pitted rusting steel.

On the trailer side of things... I've been working on an Australian-style stone guard (mostly to protect the fridge from dust, etc.), that involves several components. I plan on stretching a thick canvas cloth over the fridge and out to the corners, closing the bottom gaps as well. I added some extra insulation beneath the fridge cover so the stretched canvas doesn't crush it too much. Then I also added some front mud guards. Everything is done, except for the canvas stone guard.

Here's picture of the front mud guards. The center one actually continues up behind the fridge, to keep dust from making it's way between it and the spare tire.

20100515-192537-jsmmv-lx2-50944.jpg


You can't see the extra foam insulation for the fridge because it's under that blue cover. :) You can make out the (three per side) canvas tie-down points though, but it might be difficult to visualize the design just from this. You can also see the new LED side-markers. I chose ones with a protective stainless steel cover (goes around top, back, and bottom) to protect the marker from hits on the trail etc. They came with a foam backing, which I suspected was to protect the wires from the too-small opening behind it, so I tossed it and drilled the hole bigger. :)

20100505-170349-jsmmv-lx2-50941.jpg


I also replaced the rear tail-lights with LED models -- an easy swap on those. At the same time I ordered several different waterproof LED light bars for interior and exterior camp lighting, but the installation of these (and in fact re-wiring the whole trailer), will probably wait until this winter (around November up here)...

The hot water unit (an OME 506) was mounted within a stainless steel box, with a lid that flipped back when in use. The lid would interfere with the opening of some storage space behind it, so I decided to add a gas strut. Oh what a can o' worms that was! The unit itself isn't made to be used outdoors, and several screws (yes, screws, not bolts) were starting to rust within the unit. We replaced those with proper bolts and installed nutserts (aka rivnuts) in several places. The unit was also riveted within it's stainless steel box, so we changed all that to bolts. Finally we had the unit together with the gas strut, etc., and tested it out. We found a minor leak. It looked like it was coming from the valve manifold, so we took the whole thing apart, tried various techniques to enhance the seals, but it just got worse. Finally we found that the problem was a 1" crack in the manifold! Luckily it's made of brass, so a little silver solder did the trick - at least for now. Here are the guts of the machine after we fixed it.

20100515-192459-jsmmv-lx2-50943.jpg


I also found a ground wire that was about to go, and another wire that had been nicked and taped. I fixed both (properly with solder and heat shrink tubing) and extended the original wires to re-located the battery box (two D cell batteries) and switch. The battery mount was particularly sad - a thin piece of stamped steel held on by metal screws. We decided to do better, so made a mount from aluminum angle iron in which we cut some holes for the battery holder and switch. So, lots of work for something seemingly simple at first. :)

20100516-172530-jsmmv-lx2-50947.jpg


Next on the list for this winter is a second group-34 12v battery, re-wiring the whole trailer (with full-length ground wires), changing all the storage and kitchen lights by LED bars, and running some 12v power up into the tent for lighting as well.

js.
 

jsmoriss

Explorer
Just got back from fly fishing (my wife, not me -- I hung out in the hammock) in Cape Cod. :)

My wife getting ready (short walk down to lake):

20100521-082335-jsmmv-20d-2219.jpg


A pic of the sink output hose. I moved it to the back of the mud flap, so I could keep (and possibly use) the water for dishes. Waste not, want not. :)

20100522-153324-jsmmv-lx2-50980.jpg


Ready for rain:

20100523-185918-jsmmv-lx2-50990.jpg


Zarges. :) The ones in front of the tent are for sleeping bags, pillows, etc. The three piled on the ground are for clothes.

20100525-161632-jsmmv-20d-2322.jpg


Striped bass:

20100528-070122-jsmmv-lx2-60061.jpg


Generally everything went well, except for a few things:

- The suspension control arms from Full Traction use some non-grease-able joints, which were squeaking like crazy. Drove me nuts. Some brake cleaner _may_ have fixed the problem for now - we'll see.

- I've started getting some engine ignition issues, which I think may be caused by the E3 spark plugs I installed last year. I ordered some new Champions. For now the problem is under control using the Superchips 93 octane tune.

- The plastic faucet in the small sink cracked. I replaced it and will probably buy a spare.

- The cover on the water heater had some so-so pop rivets. The new gas strut (10 lbs) pushed on the top when closed, and the rivets started letting go. I had to disconnect the strut during the vacation, and replaced the rivets by bolts when I got back.

- I noticed the corner of a seal, on one of the trailer's top lids, was getting chewed up. After some investigating, it looks like one lid is mounted an 1/8" or so too far forward (so the corner closest to the hinge, with less space, is cutting the seal). Luckily I changed all the pop rivets to bolts on those hinges, so I should be able to make the holes a bit bigger, and move the lid back a bit. I still have to find a replacement for that seal though...

js.
 

jsmoriss

Explorer
I noticed the corner of a seal, on one of the trailer's top lids, was getting chewed up. After some investigating, it looks like one lid is mounted an 1/8" or so too far forward (so the corner closest to the hinge, with less space, is cutting the seal). Luckily I changed all the pop rivets to bolts on those hinges, so I should be able to make the holes a bit bigger, and move the lid back a bit. I still have to find a replacement for that seal though...

I forgot to take before/after pics, but moving the lid 1/8" back made a huge difference. This wouldn't have been possible if I hadn't replaced the pop-rivets holding the hinge with bolts earlier on (many pop-rivets were no blind and allowed water to enter the central tub). I used a Dremel with a carbide bit to make the existing holes oval. The lid now sits straight and the latches line up.

I've also started work on some interior tie-downs. I used aluminum VersaTie (Series 1) tracks from Mac's. The advantage to tracks is I can add mounting rings anywhere along their length (except where I've used bolts to mount the tracks).

The rear section, on the kitchen side, will probably hold two gas jerry cans on occasion. I re-used the existing 3/8" bolts that hold the kitchen -- there are 3 x 3/8" bolts for the bottom track, and 2 x 3/8" + 3 x 1/4" bolts on the top track. I've also done the same on the spare-tire side, but used 5 x 1/4" bolts for each track. The tire-side will probably hold two (empty) water jerry cans so we can haul water back to the trailer when we're parked for an extended stay.

Some pics:

20100804-092126-jsmmv-lx2-60248.jpg


20100804-092141-jsmmv-lx2-60249.jpg


I'll be adding one tie-down track to each side as well, just to hold misc boxes etc in place when we're on the trails.

js.
 

96discoXD

Adventurer
Wow, I just read through much of this thread and am extremely impressed with the build and as others have said, the attention to detail. I am contemplating a JK Unlimited purchase myself right now and this certainly gives me a lot of ideas for mods and upgrades.
 

jsmoriss

Explorer
Yakima Crossbars on Garvin Roof Rack

I added Yakima crossbars to the Garvin roof rack today. Instead of using Garvin's brackets, which were too short to clear the awning, we used Yakima's "Widebody" mounts instead. The mounts are bolted to the roof rack bars using 3/4" u-bolts. The Yakima crossbars and towers lift off easily, leaving the low-profile "Widebody" mounts on the rack permanently. The Yakima crossbars are spaced 67 1/2" apart, which leaves 1/3 of the canoe in front of the bars, and 1/3 behind. I could have mounted them 75" apart, but 67 1/2" was more appropriate for the braces in our Ally 16 1/2' canoe (PVC material over aluminum frame).

20100829-153505-jsmmv-lx2-60427.jpg


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js.
 

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