Truck Camper Construction Costs?

saltamontes

Observer
OutbacKamper said:
As the owner of a NL camper (which is consistently rated higher for quality than BF) I can tell you that there is very little difference in build quality. The 2 piece fiberglass "clamshell" is great but everything else is the same "stick and staple" quality. My camper has the same aluminum frame and glass windows as most other campers. There are only a few of the newest models that are available with dometic/sietz windows. All the hardware, fittings, appliances, etc are the same quality as any other camper I have seen or owned. The plastic fittings on the exterior deteriorate in sunlight just like any other camper. It may have a 2 piece fg shell, but that shell has lots of penetrations for fasteners, doors, windows, jack brackets, etc and these are prone to leakage just like any other camper.

In summary the 2 piece FG design is better, but the build quality and materials used is/are not.

Cheers
Mark


i suppose i should qualify "stick and staple" construction as first that applied to the interior casework and second as applied to the shell construction.

true, the interior of nearly every camper is glued/stapled laminate and plywood. They do this both for cost and for weight. I would rather see upgrade options to solid wood, composites, marble, etc.. but they mass manufacture this stuff so customization suffers. Regarding the weight savings, i have no problem whatsoever and applaud NorthernLite for their weight conscientiousness, something increasingly ignored by manufacturers. I think anyone considering building from scratch should consider the weight penalties of outfitting the interior like earthroamer and should make sure they are w/in the stated capacities of the carrying vehicle. Probably be cheaper and easier to upgrade a few interior components rather than build from scratch, yes?

the clamshell construction of NLite and BF, while having the same roof penetrations, benefits from not having the seams and every corner of the camper. IMO, this is a major benefit in terms of both structural integrity and weather tightness. Natcoa.org has some pictures of various shell cross-sections and if all that were available were "stick and staple" shells, i too would be looking to build instead of buy. I own a NLite camper also and if there is any consideration for buying vs. building i assume the purchase would be a newer model many of which come stock w/ Dometic windows if that were a major decision factor.



apologies for hijacking this thread w/ Chicken Little talk.. but my understanding is that the new Dodges sold today expressly state that they are not rated for campers (its a note in the glovebox or something). "Quality Construction" usually means "Heavy Construction" so keep that in mind before we jump all over the TC manufacturers for "Low Quality", lets factor weight into the equation (esp if one intends to carry it on a domestic, full-size SRW truck).

Additionally, considering you are looking at a LWB (CrewCab?) truck, is this rig meant to really boonie-bash? Because the breakover and weight (potentially) will limit its off-road capabilities.

Most campers on the road today are overloading the truck carrying them. This puts all of us sharing those roads at risk. Additionally, in the event of tire/axle/wheel; truck failure (and God forbid injuries) your ins co may deny coverage, exposing yourself to potentially serious liabilities. There is a reason why TurtleV and earthroamer are on a F550 chassis.

I think we all would opt for Charlie Aaron's unimog as the ultimate expo vehicle if $ was no object. Unfortunately, i want to expo today and i have not the time to build from scratch. I suppose this site is all about the custom build.. but my advice is maybe buy a cheap used TC you can expo today while you fine-tune your requirements for the ultimate custom build.

i will now duck behind this chicken wire as y'all start chucking empty beer cans at the killjoy.
 

OutbacKamper

Supporting Sponsor
saltamontes;
You don't need to duck behind chicken wire, at least not on my account. I actually agree with everything in your last post.
However just because I may be traveling in a truck with a $5000 camper for economic reasons doesn't mean that I can't dream about my "ideal" expedition camper, or enjoy discussing someone else's dream. Besides it is more fun to discuss our dreams sometimes, rather than our real lives. Personally I love these types of threads, we can live vicariously through some one else's build or adventure.

Cheers
Mark
 
saltamontes

You do bring up dome relevant concerns about weight, as many trucks with camper, trailers, or RV's are overloaded beyond a vehicle's capabilities. Weight is a concern that is being addressed the camper shell should only weight between 200-500lbs depending on how fiberglass is laid and how much reinforcement gets installed. For some reason major items for outfitting in systems and appliances alone adds up to almost 1500lbs without furniture. It would be nice if I went out and purchased a new ton vehicle to build upon, for all the other days when not in use it would just be sitting there eating up funds, there's enough of those already.

As far as needs go everyone has different situations and preferences, it would be nice to find something that fits my needs and my likings, after looking at what's available in the market I have not seen anything appealing. One fast and cheep alternative would be adding a solar array, generator, and off road trailer tires to the boat, for a nice amphibious expedition setup.



I was wondering what kind of camper mounting solutions are out there besides bumper/frame mounted tie downs, as the camper is not wide enough to use those. Many people have posted some Australian versions mounted on flat beds, have not really seen what kind of hardware is used on those.
 

egn

Adventurer
What happens when the truck is overloaded you can see here:
isl03170.jpg

Photo taken from http://www.explorermagazin.de/isl03/isl0319a.htm

rahmenbruch.jpg

Photo taken from http://www.baikal2007.de/reise.shtml

Overloading your vehicle is no good idea, especially when you drive on rough roads or go offroad.
 

eugene

Explorer
Funny they are both nissans. I went to a nissan dealer since they were the only one who makes a quad cab small truck with a 6' bed. You could jump up and down in the bed and make the frame bend enough to make the bed and cab touch, I knew then the frame was too flexible.

Weight is a major issue with todays RV's, as others have said most are overweight when you buy them, then you put in all your crap and fill the water tank and your unsafe. Thats why I ask if you need all that stuff, coffee maker, microwave, ac panel, etc. Go as minimal as you can.

I'm keeping mine as narrow as possible, its not going to be a live in for a week camper, more of a base camp where we can sleep if we want to. More of a big truck cap than a rv camper. No 120v wiring, an automotive fuse panel using those mini atc fuses which match the truck. Lighting will be automotive dome lamps from trucks and suv's. Minimal plumbing and what I do have is using vinyl hose rather than pipes, etc.
 
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egn - I agree with you that disastrous results can occur when an vehicle is overloaded beyond it's limits.

Had a similar incident occur with a new Kodiak box truck that I drove across the country loaded with all sorts of metal machinery, it drove fine for the first 1/4 of the way then slowly the box and cab came into contact with each other, after this occurred the truck did not drive straight or handle properly, making it an agonizing journey from driving slowly to keep the truck on the road. Lucky it was only a rental and I'm going to keep a careful record for this project.

Eugene - You are right about some of the stuff, there are things that can go to help reduce weight, like generator and microwave along with some other items if necessary. Right now most of the weight comes from batteries- 330lbs, water- 250lbs, and fuel- 360lbs, just those items alone along with supporting items make up over 1000lbs. I thought the idea of carrying a portable uv sterilizer, filter and pump to fill up using some natural water sources to reduce some water weight.

I also wanted something that is as narrow as possible, it's designed to stay close within the truck's width shown in the front view.
 
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eugene

Explorer
eliminating some of the electrical load may let you cut down on batteries. Drop the appliances and 120v lighting then recalculate your run time from battery. Thats why I'm keeping low voltage, no microwave, coffee pot, no inverter, 120v fuse panel, etc. I figure there are 100-200lbs in all that.
 

Rhode Trip

Adventurer
OutbacKamper said:
My camper has the same aluminum frame and glass windows as most other campers. There are only a few of the newest models that are available with dometic/sietz windows.
Cheers
Mark

I was told recently by a dealer that the factory can retrofit the Dometic windows in older models. I made inside acrylic storms for mine that have made a substantial difference in cold temps.
 

805gregg

Adventurer
While I think making your own camper would be great fun. I built a chassis mount camper on my '53 chevy truck in the mid 60's. I lived in it for 6 months. I think the time and expense would be better spent enjoying, rather than building. I bought a Lance 9.5 foot camper for my Dodge 1 ton SWR, it's great, been to baja, and this year to Vancover island. The used camper cost $5000 and is quite comfortable for 2. My truck takes the 2800 lb camper no problem. They told me I would need airbags to hold the camper, wrong, the camper just levels out the truck. I can't do true off road but dirt and baja beaches are ok. If you build keep us informed with pictures.
 

eugene

Explorer
sometimes you have to make something when what you want isn't offered. All the truck campers sold today are nicer than my house.
 
I'll keep you guys updated when the build starts, it should begin shortly after may or when I get back from China in August. Hopefully the resin will cooperate under these higher temperature conditions over here in vegas.

I know a lot of people must be wondering why not just by a off the lot camper and call it done, sometimes the build can just as enjoyable as any expedition if not more.

Does any one know of any good Dometic distributors located in the states, I would really like to see their windows and get a hold of their CT3000 cassette toilet for the camper?
 

boblynch

Adventurer
Nitromethane43 said:
Does any one know of any good Dometic distributors located in the states, I would really like to see their windows and get a hold of their CT3000 cassette toilet for the camper?

Search for Northstar or Northern Lite truck camper dealers in your area. They both use Dometic acrylic windows you could look at. DometicUSA's customer service center claims you can order cassette toilets from any of their US dealers. Good luck and keep us posted on the build.
 

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