Tuffstuff Trailer???

[thebigez]

@AZCASAK - The stove mod helped a little - and I know it was hotter because I could get a slight smell of burning rubber from the rubber grommets that hold the burner grates. The big issue is that this stove is designed to be used inside of a trailer - hence designed for a lower BTU output. The Dometic replacement ones (that should drop right in) that I looked at had only 7K and 5K BTU burners. By comparison, a Camp Chef 2 burner propane stove puts out 20K BTU per burner. The stock burners may work great inside a trailer, but when you factor in any wind at all, they don't cut it.

I was going to pull the trigger on a Dometic replacement, but I don't think that will solve the issue due to the low BTU. So, I am looking into replacing the burners and valves out of a camp chef or coleman stove, or find a way to integrate a 2 burner camp stove into the stove location. In the meantime, I have a one burner Partner Steel stove that fits in the drawer that I connect to the propane tank that works great. I'll update this thread as I find out more. And I completely agree, the stock stove is inadequate and needs to be replaced. Other than that, I've been quite pleased with the trailer with the possible exception of the heavy drawer on top that I will likely remove.

 

[WillBatt]

@AZCASAK - The stove mod helped a little - and I know it was hotter because I could get a slight smell of burning rubber from the rubber grommets that hold the burner grates. The big issue is that this stove is designed to be used inside of a trailer - hence designed for a lower BTU output. The Dometic replacement ones (that should drop right in) that I looked at had only 7K and 5K BTU burners. By comparison, a Camp Chef 2 burner propane stove puts out 20K BTU per burner. The stock burners may work great inside a trailer, but when you factor in any wind at all, they don't cut it.

I was going to pull the trigger on a Dometic replacement, but I don't think that will solve the issue due to the low BTU. So, I am looking into replacing the burners and valves out of a camp chef or coleman stove, or find a way to integrate a 2 burner camp stove into the stove location. In the meantime, I have a one burner Partner Steel stove that fits in the drawer that I connect to the propane tank that works great. I'll update this thread as I find out more. And I completely agree, the stock stove is inadequate and needs to be replaced. Other than that, I've been quite pleased with the trailer with the possible exception of the heavy drawer on top that I will likely remove.

Any Luck Swapping out the burners on your stove? Just purchased a new Basecamp and had no clue the stove was so underpowered.

 

[thebigez]

I have my trailer in storage for the winter - but I am planning to go a slightly different route. I have a Partner Steel 2 burner stove that will easily fit within the stove opening. I am going to see about removing the existing stove, and mounting in the Partner stove with the lid / windscreen. I probably won't get my trailer out of storage until next month to figure out. That said - I could always just put the partner stove on top of the existing stove as a temp. solution. Will update once I figure it out - but I'm confident it will work.

 

[jchristophj]

I have my trailer in storage for the winter - but I am planning to go a slightly different route. I have a Partner Steel 2 burner stove that will easily fit within the stove opening. I am going to see about removing the existing stove, and mounting in the Partner stove with the lid / windscreen. I probably won't get my trailer out of storage until next month to figure out. That said - I could always just put the partner stove on top of the existing stove as a temp. solution. Will update once I figure it out - but I'm confident it will work.

Hey, thanks for the updates. Did you end up removing the stock stove? I was thinking of doing something similar. Right now I've just been carrying a classic Coleman 2-burner with much greater BTU output. It works but it'd be nice to have an integrated design that works as intended.

 

[ducposer]

what are the chances of being able to remove the tent on the crux? I love the trailer hate the tent and want to use my own hardshell rtt. The reason im asking is I found a good deal on a used crux

 

[MAP]

what are the chances of being able to remove the tent on the crux? I love the trailer hate the tent and want to use my own hardshell rtt. The reason im asking is I found a good deal on a used crux

what are the chances of being able to remove the tent on the crux? I love the trailer hate the tent and want to use my own hardshell rtt. The reason im asking is I found a good deal on a used crux

Seems the crux is same as the tuff stuff so tent is just mounted on cross bars. Will remove and mount like any other RTT. 2 bolts on each corner with a plate connecting them on underside of the cross bar. Eventually I’m looking to swap to a hard shell tent as well. No worries being able to do it.

 

[WillBatt]

Hello fellow basecamp owners. I just broke one of the water quick connect male fittings. Anybody know what size these are and if the hydraulic quick connects on Amazon are compatible? Also, what is the fitting called that male quick connect is attached to? Its not technically a compression fitting, but its not a barbed fitting. It has one barb, and then a nut fits around the hose and threads to the fitting.... I cant find anything like it in my searches.

 

[MAP]

The tuff stuff owners manual list them as part number 6062022 water pipe connector 1 male & female.
Tuff stuff changed the name of the trailer implant but is still headquartered in Santa Anna. Give them a call.
As things come up I try to swap out with more available hardware. The fitting coming off the water tank cracked on mine so replaced with a Home Depot fitting and new water hose.

 

[thebigez]

I finally got around to upgrading / replacing the 2 burner stove. The stove that comes with the trailer is really designed to be used inside a trailer so the 2 burners are limited to 10K and 6K BTU. This is fine if you are cooking in a trailer - but outside with any wind at all, and it takes forever to cook anything. I looked around for a different 2 burner stove that would drop in - and they all had the same BTU limitation. So this weekend, I removed the stove, and added a PartnerSteel 2 burner stove. I had the stove from my rafting days so I decided to go with it. Adding it to the trailer turned out to be really easy.

The biggest problem was once you remove the existing stove there is a large hole where the stove would go. The hole is large enough that the PartnerSteel stove would drop through in the front. I looked at fabricating a new bottom - but ultimately decided on a quick and easy solution. Amazon sells a stainless steel baking pan almost the perfect size for the opening. Baking Sheet, Yododo Stainless Steel Baking Pans Tray Cookie Sheet Toaster Oven Tray Pan Cookie Pan, Non Toxic & Healthy, Superior Mirror Finish & Rust Free, Easy Clean & Dishwasher Safe - 23½ inch It is about 1/2" too long, so I simply cut triangles out of the corners on one side so I could fold the edge in the 1/2". Plus cutting the corners will allow the tray to drain if it fills with water.

I bolted 6 1" aluminum angle pieces to the tray to hold the stove in place. I mounted the pieces of angle so that the protruding bolts and nuts on the underside will come through the existing hole. I added two thumbscrews to the sides with wing nuts inside to hold the stove from moving up and down. Plus I can quickly remove these 2 screws to take out the stove for cleaning. I also drilled a 1" hole in the side for the propane line / fitting to the stove.

I was going to attach the tray to the drawer, but found that it is such a tight fit, that I don't think it will move much. Plus I can remove it easily for cleaning if I need to. If I find that it moves around I'll figure out a quick and simple way to fasten it to the drawer.

I only did a quick driveway test to make sure everything worked properly / didn't get too hot / etc. and seems great. I did need to buy a propane tank extension for the hose to reach the propane tank on the trailer - but I will probably see if PartnerSteel can make a longer hose for me. (They use a propane fitting on the stove that is impossible to find.) Also - my stove had the propane fitting on the left which was perfect. (You can have them made with the fitting on either right or left.) Running the propane line on the right would have been difficult because of the sink location.

 

[dsearig10]

Has anyone put a hot water system in one of these trailers yet?

 

[dsearig10]

Search "Chinese Diesel Air Heater" Amazon. They go for about $120-150 and are a much better option that a Little Buddy. No condensation in the tent in the morning!

How did you set this up in your tent?

 

[bshinn]

How did you set this up in your tent?

Bought an “all in one” unit and set it on the top deck and duct into the tent. Added an extention cable to the controller so I could use it in the tent as well.

 

[bshinn]

what are the chances of being able to remove the tent on the crux? I love the trailer hate the tent and want to use my own hardshell rtt. The reason im asking is I found a good deal on a used crux

No sweat, unbolts in about 10 min.

 

[bshinn]

How did you set this up in your tent?

I just set it on the deck & run the ducts into either side of the tent at the hinges.

 

[84-4runner]

A few pictures of my water heater set up. The 1550 Pelican case fits perfectly behind my cooler on the slide out so I can leave it in the trailer when I don't need it. I added a couple of hooks so it simply sits over the front edge of the box.

My goal was to design it so that it can be deployed in less than 2 minutes using quick connect fittings. For the water supply I added a T filling on the sink connection and 1/4" hydraulic fittings. For a supply line, I am using a 15' coiled hose that wraps up nicely and stores in the front box next to the propane tank. I used a hose thread to 1/4 NPT fittings on both sides of the hose that then connect to the male hydraulic fittings. On the heater side, I used a 1/2" street elbow, with a 1/2 to 1/4 NPT adapter that allows me to connect a female hydraulic fitting.

I did a similar thing with the propane with an elbow and 1/2 to 1/4 NPT fitting. The heater came with a 3/8 Flare Fitting already attached that I removed. This was not easy - make sure you use a wrench on the 1/2 stub that stick out or you will twist off the pipe and ruin the heater. They used some very aggressive pipe compound so I ended up heating the fitting to allow it to come loose.

I used a male connector for propane (and a female for water) to make sure they don't get mixed up. And I opted to connect the fittings in the front so that I didn't have to cut holes in the case and to make sure the lid is open when the water heater is connected. I mounted the heater on the left side of the case so the faucet nestles firmly into the right side. I may add an aluminum heat deflector to the top of the case if it gets too hot - but many people have said that it is not an issue.

The T fitting was a bit problematic since the hydraulic water fittings the trailer comes with is not a standard NPT thread. I ended up having to use a die to modify a 1/4 NPT to the correct metric size.

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Good morning
What size (liters per minute) hot water heater did you use? Also is that the largest capicity unit that would fit the 1550 case?
thanks