Unicorn on the Ocean - 1120AF Coming to Canada

[whomisi]

Back as one. Fairly straightforward once I was SURE it was level and true. Lots of measurements with a laser. I found the whole frame goes in and out by a few mm along the length, so hard to know what to reference. But it came out well. Next to build a new cross member to hand the air tanks from, get the driveshaft extended, bolt it all together, re-plumb the air brakes and go for a drive! The overlapping frame stiffeners will do in too.

 

[whomisi]

What is everyone else running for departure angle? I'm going to take this places I absolutely shouldn't so I'm thinking 30 degrees would be pretty good. But I could gain a little more at the cost of living space with the usual 45 degrees on the back of the cab and smaller rear boxes. But it isn't long before the actual frame gets in the way.
I see a lot of rigs with the big rear taper but low boxes making it more of an aesthetic rather than functional design.

 

[VerMonsterRV]

Here she is, pretty simple stuff, although Ive not had her on really dry dirt roads yet...
View attachment 831894

One thing about our exhaust. We started out with a side exit in the middle of the truck right after the muffler/silencer. After a couple of years of travel I sort of got tired of all the black soot that was accumulating in that area (a good portion of the air control and filter was there, like in the picture). So I had the exhaust re-routed out the back of the truck. I have to say it has been a great improvement and has pretty much eliminated the soot build up.

 

[whomisi]

One thing about our exhaust. We started out with a side exit in the middle of the truck right after the muffler/silencer. After a couple of years of travel I sort of got tired of all the black soot that was accumulating in that area (a good portion of the air control and filter was there, like in the picture). So I had the exhaust re-routed out the back of the truck. I have to say it has been a great improvement and has pretty much eliminated the soot build up.

Great info, thank you. I'm moving my air control inboard up up, but perhaps that's even worse as the muffler exit would be upstream.

I'll give it careful thought.

 

[whomisi]

Air system all roughly back together, I need to shorten a few more hoses and lengthen a couple more but it appears to be functioning just like before. Good thing I labelled everything, plus this has forced me to understand all the valves and how the system works which will come in handy in the future.

I had to make a new main compressor line, make sure the dryer cartridge could be removed after the build is done, and that the driveshaft or possible exhaust routing doesn't cause me issues. I think I got it just about there!
The crossmember I designed dropped in a treat and I used a mag-drill for match drilling all ll the frame holes. I also made a new pump mount for the hydraulic pump which came out nicely too. Got to love knowing someone who works with a laser and metal forming shop!




Now I need to find me a pair of frightliner/sterling 50 gallon fuel tanks, the most suitable north American tanks I could find except I can't seem to find any locally. I've added a couple of cheap steel underbody boxes for batteries, cab tilt hydraulics, tire pressure pneumatic system and diesel tank switch over and filter system. Will be cosy in there but it'll work nicely. I copied the cab tilt pump clearances to the cab and wheel and I'll add a mudguard to the front face of the box.





The layout and CAD model are slowly developing, choosing the best layout is proving pretty tricky since there aren't that many sleeping 4 people bed setups. The original plan of a lowering bed has been scrapped because I think the main bed will be a bit more like a couch area in the daytime, so thinking about an L shaped dinette opposite the kitchen, small bathroom which partially encloses the kids beds up front, with a crawl through sneaking between them.




Waiting on my extended driveshaft, for the rear axle, and my shortened one for the PTO. Fuel tanks, wiring, hydraulic lines and then onto subframe. Really need to hurry up and decide on a layout and habitation box supplier so I can make sure the subframe will work with the box. For anyone curious it is currently planned to be 5.5m long, 2.4m wide, outside dimensions.

Plenty to do on and in the cab while I wait for the box to be made later though, PLENTY to do....

 

[Deleted Member 183]

What are you going to use your PTO for?

 

[whomisi]

What are you going to use your PTO for?

It drives a hydraulic pump for a ridiculously overkill winch that came with the truck. It's 150ft of 5/8" cable and I really don't need it. But it's sooooo cool and I'm stupid enough to get very stuck... Pictures of the winch on some previous pages.

 

[Deleted Member 183]

I have recently learned on ExPo that some people do not like people sharing their opinions & advice on their threads. If that is the case with you... Just let me know and I'll delete this post immediately.

I was curious because I have a PTO attachment for the transfer case in Casa Azul and was thinking or mounting it on the t-case to run either a BLDC or PMSM generator motor where my engine (tuned 6BTAA Cummins) powers the PTO and would be "geared" so the max efficiency RPM of the motor would match the idle speed of the engine.

If it were me, I'd bale on the on the winch! It and the cable are heavy and only as useful as the quality of your anchor! Granted they are fantastic for pulling another vehicle out of the muck, they are next to useless unless you have a D6 Caterpillar to anchor off of (F350/ F500's need not apply).

I'd put my energy into being able to air down quickly and easily air up again. AND build your hidden vault, then make as fat of "tractor fund" as you can before you hit the road.

 

[whomisi]

I have recently learned on ExPo that some people do not like people sharing their opinions & advice on their threads. If that is the case with you... Just let me know and I'll delete this post immediately.

I was curious because I have a PTO attachment for the transfer case in Casa Azul and was thinking or mounting it on the t-case to run either a BLDC or PMSM generator motor where my engine (tuned 6BTAA Cummins) powers the PTO and would be "geared" so the max efficiency RPM of the motor would match the idle speed of the engine.

If it were me, I'd bale on the on the winch! It and the cable are heavy and only as useful as the quality of your anchor! Granted they are fantastic for pulling another vehicle out of the muck, they are next to useless unless you have a D6 Caterpillar to anchor off of (F350/ F500's need not apply).

I'd put my energy into being able to air down quickly and easily air up again. AND build your hidden vault, then make as fat of "tractor fund" as you can before you hit the road.

No opinions and thoughts absolutely welcome here!

This truck had a 30kw AC generator on the back driven by the pto, I believe the pto output was 1:1 and the governor ran the engine at 1800rpm to achieve 60hz (European). I like your idea of using it like a charging alternator, I guess it could power an electric air conditioner for the cab too with all that power.

You're right I should ditch the winch, and one day I'll regret that I didn't because of the complexity, space, weight and cost of keeping it. But... It's sooooo cool, and there's lots of trees in Canada I can anchor to. It's staying because I'm a big kid and it makes the big truck more fun...but I do agree with you.

I am adding a nice air up/down system don't worry about that

 

[mog]

But... It's sooooo cool, and there's lots of trees in Canada I can anchor to. It's staying because I'm a big kid and it makes the big truck more fun...but I do agree with you.

I hate to disagree with @Deleted Member 183 (he knows where I live), but I'd keep the winch. it is just far too cool and useful to get rid of. All the factory engineering that went into the mounting, powering and cable runs/guides could and is not duplicated as well by 'xxxx'. Being a Mercedes LKW, you will never get stuck anyway but think of all the less fortunate people you will be able to help with your superriese winch. One of the downsides of my C4500 is size/weight, too much for a mortal truck to save, but if German Iron with an earthmoving winch shows up, the day is saved.

 

[whomisi]

I hate to disagree with @Deleted Member 183 (he knows where I live), but I'd keep the winch. it is just far too cool and useful to get rid of. All the factory engineering that went into the mounting, powering and cable runs/guides could and is not duplicated as well by 'xxxx'. Being a Mercedes LKW, you will never get stuck anyway but think of all the less fortunate people you will be able to help with your superriese winch. One of the downsides of my C4500 is size/weight, too much for a mortal truck to save, but if German Iron with an earthmoving winch shows up, the day is saved.

Just give me a call and I'll be there! I agree, it's so ridiculous it has to stay. It's so nicely made, with a pressure gauge in the cab telling me how hard I'm pulling. 80kn rated. It is capstan too so the speed and force is constant as it isn't winding wire on wire. It's a rotzler tr080, the kind usually fitted to 8x8 armoured personnel carriers according to the manufacturer who I communicated with.


I got an email about a post asking about frame reinforcement (tehe), I guess you noticed them in the picture but they're as close as I could determine the Mercedes guide was asking for, and I threw a heap of fasteners matching the ones Mercedes uses for the cross members. Super strong, I have no concerns like I thought I might

 

[mog]

I got an email about a post asking about frame reinforcement (tehe), I guess you noticed them in the picture but they're as close as I could determine the Mercedes guide was asking for, and I threw a heap of fasteners matching the ones Mercedes uses for the cross members. Super strong, I have no concerns like I thought I might

That was me. For some reason when I was looking at the thread all the photos of your reinforcing (as per MB) did not show up, so it looked like (at that time), the frame was just buttwelded and nothing else. After posting all that info, when the thread refreshed, I saw the photos and all the work you did. Everything I had included was lame Chevy body builder stuff, not Uber Deutsche Technologie.

Very cool you have a dash gauge to show the load/strain on the cable. If only so you can scream out

 

[whomisi]

not Uber Deutsche Technologie.

Very cool you have a dash gauge to show the load/strain on the cable. If only so you can scream out

The translating was the hardest part of the guide, I did learn that the frames require a subframe on top of the frame so they're not well suited to just a 4 point pivot style without a subframe on top. That's what's helped convince me the sprung style is better suited for my build. Plus highway manners.

And translating the Scottish wasn't straightforward either 😂

 

[whomisi]

Big day! I took her for a spin around the block, so much fun. The air system is working as it should, even the ABS does it's thing. All the indicator lights are still functional and I am super happy it didn't snap in half.

While I was out and about, I thought I would test the chassis flex. I was picturing something around 6" of lift at the front of the subframe before a wheel gets picked up. Oh man was I wrong, it got to 10" and I ran out of ways to flex it any more. 25 degrees of flex front bumper to rear cross member, absolutely crazy. I had 28" combined of jacked up tyres.

Who else has tested their chassis flex?

I am thinking now that I will have to constrain it with my sprung type - rail on rail subframe. I don't think I can soak up the full flex, however much that is, without issues. It would be even more twist if the rear was loaded down with a box I imagine.

How much travel do others have on their front-most subframe hold down spring?

 

[Neil]

My springs at the front of the rail on rail sub frame open 100mm .

The chassis pretty much divides the width of the cabin into three equal parts , soo 100 mm opening allows 100mm drop on the opposite side of the cabin.

It's firm, but has worked perctly for 80,000 km on some pretty rough roads through Latin America. Never had an issue.

I have followed vehicles with too much sway and it's awful.

Keep it tight, but incorporate adjustment

Neil