Unimogadventures - Our build and travel thread

[Coachgeo]

Sounds interesting, I found some turnbuckles that would do the same thing, but would need to weld on some eyes/brackets for it to work.

The advantage of the winches was they had them permanently set up with switches in the cab. They could sinch it down without getting out. Not sure if they could reverse the cable back to normal lenght without getting out though. Might have to get thru the bad spot first then pull over and spool it out to normal? Figure they did limited the total lenght of the cable to be no more than their suspension limiter straps?

 

[Iain_U1250]

A little winch on both sides of the roof would be one way. Something little like this would be enough. They have remotes controls and are $130 each.

 

[Iain_U1250]

Just finished fitting our new bike rack, going to be great to take our bikes with us on our next trip.

It is very strong I can do pull ups on the end of the rack and it doesn't move.

We can still open the boot, and other compartments.

I can remove a pin and the bike rack fold down to put the inner bike on, and then I just lift the outer bike on. The whole thing can come off in about 5 minutes, but I can lock it onto the truck as well.

 

[piratexpress1369a]

That's awesome ...hey I liked the last video you posted on YouTube

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

 

[BjarniThor]

Hi Ian, a question about the exhaust system of your truck. Can you describe /and or show some pictures how it is routed all the way back?
Is it located inside the chassis rails ? Where did you find the space to install a muffler?

 

[Iain_U1250]

Here are a few photos, the exhaust pipe is 3" and now I have no muffler, and there is not much difference in sound inside the truck at all. The muffler was right at the rear.

I have changed the route quite a bit, mainly because since I have certified the truck for passengers in the rear, the exhaust has to exit at the very rear of the truck. I also wanted the exhaust high up inside the body to keep it clear of any dry grass.

Here are some photos from our blog.

This is the route of the dump pipe after the turbo. The first part of the exhaust is ceramc coated inside and out to limit the heat transfer to the cab. I have also wrapped it with ceramic tape as extra heat insulation.

The exhaust then goes close up to the camper floor.

The muffler used to be right at the rear, high up above the rear axle. Now I have all the air tanks there, but there is still enough room for the 3" pipe.

The left rear storage box is 4" smaller than the one on the right.

I direct the exhaust down, it keeps the soot from the rear door.

 

[BjarniThor]

In relation to this, for the OM352/366 engines tuned to 200-250 HP, I wonder what is the optimum exhaust pipe diameter?
I would think 3" is a minimum, but would something be gained with a 4" ? Maby in your case space at the rear would
be to restricted for a 4" ?
How is the sound levels from the outside having no muffler?

 

[Iain_U1250]

A 3" is good for over 300hp, anything bigger is just for bragging rights. People are getting over 500hp from turbo cars with 3" exhausts so our 200hp should be easy. Noise wise, my wife says she can't hear much of a difference when I drive past.

My fuel pump is set for "Over 185hp" according to the injection pump shop, that's at at 10 PSI boost, and I am now currently running 16PSI boost so should be a bit better than that. I have a water cooled ball bearing turbo, intercooler and a matched and calibrated set of bigger injectors. My pre turbo EGT gets up to around 620 Deg C, so pretty comfortably within reasonable limits. I also have the oil squirters to cool the pistons, without them, you should not run more than 160hp as the pistons will melt.

Getting a OM352/366 to over 200hp requires a lot of work, first off you need the bigger fuel pump with the 10mm plungers, and even bigger injector nozzles. I think you also need a new camshaft, and a bigger turbo, and inter cooler along with the bigger air cleaner. Then you need to upgrade the transmission from the UG3/40 to the heavy duty one UG3/65 from the U1850 or bigger mogs with the extra oil cooler. I get worried about over-stressing my transmission on long uphill climbs due to the extra power I'm putting through it.

 

[thebigblue]

So there´s no Intercooler on the Mog?

 

[Iain_U1250]

No intercooler on most mogs, mine has one, and so do the U1850 and above.

 

[BjarniThor]

You dont have an exhaust brake on your mog?
How well do the standart brakes only hold up for mog campers in your opinion?
Is an exhaust brake maby not " a must have" ?
I depends though very much on the terrain you are traveling on I guess ?

 

[Iain_U1250]

The silver thing just after the turbo is the exhaust brake. We use it all the time, and since we are at the maximum GVM, it is definitely a necessity, it really slows our truck down on any downhill. The normal brakes are pretty good, but I would not like to use them all the time on a long mountain pass.

 

[thebigblue]

No intercooler on most mogs, mine has one, and so do the U1850 and above.

Right, I´ll have to read this thread once again then, I´m curious about the temperature difference you have. Is it air- or water-cooled?

 

[Iain_U1250]

My inter cooler is water cooled. Pg 28 has more details. I'm thinking of increasing the size of the heat exchanger, as the water doesn't get that hot. I need to do some more measurements before I commit to that though. Since it is behind the radiator, it sits in the 50 Deg C hot air stream, so thinking of ways to re-direct the airflow.

Not sure if it would be worth it, for just a few degrees on the EGT.

 

[evilfij]

Have you considered the AV intercooler set up?