Ursa Minor Pop-Top Jeep JK

[lenny6753]

I solved my issue. I loosened everything and then retightened all the bolts. I believe my front passenger side near the corner slowly loosened over time, thousands of miles, and then all the flexing from doing the New Mexico BDR. I believe it caused a small gap in the weatherstripping which let water in. I’ve tested it now in heavy rains and with a water hose and no leaks. Going forward I think I will check every six months or so. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Dan Grec]

Does anyone remember the name/brand of the black round plastic thing Ursa Minor use to pass solar panel cables through the roof?

I actually bought one previously, and I can't quite remember what it's called & where I got it.

Thanks!
-Dan

 

[BOHICA]

Does anyone remember the name/brand of the black round plastic thing Ursa Minor use to pass solar panel cables through the roof?

I actually bought one previously, and I can't quite remember what it's called & where I got it.

Thanks!
-Dan

I don't know if this is the same one but looks well made...skip to 5:42.

 

[larock1971]

I have a vague memory of seeing the solar gland pass through they used, not a traditional RV style. Figure with UM’s history in boats look at the marine side for cable clam. From what I remember it looked something like the Blue Sea Systems 1007 Side Entry CableClam.

 

[Dan Grec]

Blue Sea Systems 1007 Side Entry CableClam.

Thankyou that is exactly the one!!

-Dan

 

[TArnett]

Thankyou that is exactly the one!!

-Dan

In a similar situation looking for a low profile solution but curious if Ursa Minor used two of these?
Thanks, Tom

 

[Dan Grec]

In a similar situation looking for a low profile solution but curious if Ursa Minor used two of these?
Thanks, Tom

Ursa mounted two flexible solar panels on mine (at my request) and they two MC4 joiners up on the exterior of the roof, so they only needed to run two cables inside (+ and -). The two cables run through one cableclam (assuming that's the exact brand/model they use). It sure looks the same.

-Dan

 

[TArnett]

Ursa mounted two flexible solar panels on mine (at my request) and they two MC4 joiners up on the exterior of the roof, so they only needed to run two cables inside (+ and -). The two cables run through one cableclam (assuming that's the exact brand/model they use). It sure looks the same.

-Dan

Thanks Dan, It just looks like that only allows a single wire/cable. I have the same dual flexible panel with the joiners so will try to confirm that two cables fit.

 

[Dan Grec]

Thanks Dan, It just looks like that only allows a single wire/cable. I have the same dual flexible panel with the joiners so will try to confirm that two cables fit.

I had a good look at mine this morning.
Both cables run into one, and if it's not a Blue Sea Systems 1007 Side Entry CableClam, it is exceptionally, exceptionally the same to look at.

-Dan

 

[Jbrazeal]

Hey everyone, I just re-listed my Ursa Minor for the JKU over in classified under Campers. It's in perfect condition and I have only used a handful of times. I will also consider selling both the Jeep Rubicon and the Ursa Minor as a package. The Jeep is loaded out and ready for expedition, I just can't find the time.

Youtube at Rambling 4x4 Adventures

 

[Dan Grec]

I had a good look at mine this morning.
Both cables run into one, and if it's not a Blue Sea Systems 1007 Side Entry CableClam, it is exceptionally, exceptionally the same to look at.

Sorry everyone, the plot gets deeper (thicker).

I got all the snow off and climbed up to really see mine. The thing the cables pass through is round, black and has three little screws.
It's clearly NOT a Blue Sea Systems 1007 Side Entry CableClam, but it is very similar.

It has a logo, that if I had to guess is a letter "B" that is mind of kind of diagonal stripes, if that makes sense.

I'll keep digging and try to find out exactly what it is.

-Dan

 

[TArnett]

Thought I would add my setup on solar to the J30. It was a long process due to a longer story so in short I do not recall what some items used are called.
(1) I started with Renogy's dual flexible solar panel (200 watt total) kit that included the controller. The only drilling was with a 5/8" bit. 2 in the J30's top and 2 at the base where the the standard wires also come out.
(2 &3) Circuit breakers were used instead of fuses for the panels and controller positive wires to allow disconnecting easily. The controller breaker is in the engine compartment (covered with HVAC duct tape and the solar breaker is in the B pillar access panel just above the floor, real easy to access but out of sight and protected.
(4) Stainless steel adhesive hooks were used for the panel cable routing to enable access and keep them at a low profile. I have the roof rack directly above the cables for snag protection and to carry something I can easily slide the rear rack back if needed.
(5) The solar panels being flexible I wanted to stiffen them up a bit so Home Depot came to the rescue with, and this is one of the items I don't recall the name, a sheet of thin but strong plastic like honeycomb material that is 1/4" thick. The solar panels were attached to this material with short segments of heavy duty waterproof double sided 3M tape. Then as a precaution I used some aluminum c channel stock to clamp the two together. This combo was then attached to the roof using the same tape with, again, short sections on the high ridge points of the J30.
(6) Initially I planned on using a cable gland that is as flush to the roof as possible but ended up using Renogy's that provides a good water seal for the cables and allows more of a bend for the cables. Due to the ridges on the UM I had to modify it to fit between my roof rack rail and the first ridge. This was also attached with 3M's help and silicon caulk.
The cables follow the same path as UM's top wiring through the enclosed section so they are only visible if you know where to look.
(7) The controller resides under the front passenger seat and is easily accessible. I also purchased the controller's temperature probe and placed it next to the Jeeps battery.
(8) Good view of how low the setup is and very happy with how this is working.

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Hope some of these ideas help,
Tom

 

[shays4me]

(4) Stainless steel adhesive hooks were used for the panel cable routing to enable access and keep them at a low profile. I have the roof rack directly above the cables for snag protection and to carry something I can easily slide the rear rack back if needed.
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That's a very clean installation. Where did you find the adhesive hooks?

 

[TArnett]

Appreciate that as it took some time to think through. Same, I assume, with your hinge protectors which by the way they are still working incredibly well!
To your question got them from Amazon for $11.99 for a pack of 32.

 

[86scotty]

View attachment 771275
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Hope some of these ideas help,
Tom

Nice clean install. I have not heard much talk of this in the last couple of years but solar panels generally do not like any shading at all like you have with your roof rack bars. Do you leave them on all the time? You might try an experiment and test how much amperage you are pulling from them on a sunny day and then remove the bars and see if it goes up dramatically. This problem might be engineered out of newer panels. I have no idea but thought it worth sharing.

Also, if those are the cheap breakers from Amazon (no name) I would recommend replacing them at some point with higher quality. I have had many of them fail. I don't buy them any more. Also, I have basically never had one operate properly, even when new. I only use Buss/Bussman, Blue Sea or the like nowadays. They are a few dollars more but lots of security in knowing they are made well and will protect your expensive electronics.