Ursa Minor Pop-Top Jeep JK

[TArnett]

Apologies for late reply.
Before installing the panels I laid them out with no obstructions and measured the voltage at 21 volts as I recall. They were not hooked up to the controller as that requires connection to the battery prior to panel connection so I can't provide amperage from back then. Now to your question about the racks. I do leave them on and after checking I'm getting 20-21 volts at 10am in the southern CA desert so no issue for my use. When I first went live the controller listed amperage at 4 but now it's between 0 and 1. I'd assume the reason would be the controller is limiting the solar panel current as the battery is now charging in a float state. What puzzles me is if I check the amperage on the positive solar cable it mirrors the controller amperage. I would think the solar panel current would not be reduced upstream from the controller.
These are Amazon purchased breakers so keeping my fingers crossed they hold up. I checked the options you listed but with my wires cut for under the hood I didn't see any that would fit the location I'm using so will stick with these unless they prove unreliable.
Something that perhaps I'm overly concerned about though is the equalization stage the Renogy controller does every 28 days. The controller manual states that the battery should have no load on it during this 2 hour process. Having done this equalization process on the deep cycle batteries on our late 5th wheel trailer I was worried of the manuals "no load warning" and damaging my Jeep battery with a prolonged over charge. Now to get to what I found from Renogy and battery OEM, East Penn, both very helpful support.
) EP does not recommend equalizing AGM but if the max voltage is 14.6 or less it should be okay.
) Renogy stated the equalization can not be disabled or even reseting the day counter by powering off the controller. On the positive side if there is a load on the battery the controller will not start equalizing and the Jeeps alarm system when locked plus key fob receiver is a sufficient load. Finally the max voltage they use when equalizing is 14.6 volts so it seems I should be okay.

 

[oldnslow]

"What puzzles me is if I check the amperage on the positive solar cable it mirrors the controller amperage. I would think the solar panel current would not be reduced upstream from the controller."

The charge current is the current from the solar panel into the battery, through the charge controller. Unless you have an MPPT controller those two measurements should always be the same. Since you measured 21V at the panels, that means the charge controller is not letting much current into the battery because it is fully charged. The battery voltage and the solar panel voltage will be different (except when charging in bulk mode) but the battery current and the panel current should always be the same.

Your system is working correctly.

 

[dmulk]

Sorry everyone, the plot gets deeper (thicker).

I got all the snow off and climbed up to really see mine. The thing the cables pass through is round, black and has three little screws.
It's clearly NOT a Blue Sea Systems 1007 Side Entry CableClam, but it is very similar.

It has a logo, that if I had to guess is a letter "B" that is mind of kind of diagonal stripes, if that makes sense.

I'll keep digging and try to find out exactly what it is.

-Dan

Dan,
I was at the shop in SD yesterday having a cap replaced on my J30. Here is the solar clam they are currently using (and have for the last year or so):

 

[JB30]

Time has come to part with my Ursa Minor. First off thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. Big reason I ended up going this route and enjoyed it immensely!

Considering selling the ursa minor separately, has anyone removed theirs at any point? Wondering how many people you need to lift that sucker off, and what I need to disconnect wiring wise.

 

[BOHICA]

Time has come to part with my Ursa Minor. First off thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. Big reason I ended up going this route and enjoyed it immensely!

Considering selling the ursa minor separately, has anyone removed theirs at any point? Wondering how many people you need to lift that sucker off, and what I need to disconnect wiring wise.

Someone in the UM FaceBook Group on the west coast is looking to buy a JK UM

 

[JB30]

Someone in the UM FaceBook Group on the west coast is looking to buy a JK UM

Cool I’ll reach out, appreciate the heads up.

 

[shays4me]

I've just listed four sets of Hinge Tamers if anyone out there wants them. Due to the new tax laws this is all I will list on eBay this year. These will fit all J30 campers for JKU and JLU.

Hinge Tamers for Ursa Minor J30 JKU and JLU Jeep Wrangler Camper | eBay

Hinge Tamers for Ursa Minor J30 JKU and JLU Jeep Wrangler Camper. As an Ursa Minor J30 owner, I got tired of potentially damaging the tent in the hinges every time I closed the top, so I set out to design a solution. What you see in the pictures is what I ultimately designed to solve the...

www.ebay.com

 

[lenny6753]

Looking for some help from UM owners. Awhile back I posted about water intrusion inside my Jeep. I have an UM and thought I solved the water issue by retightening the front bolts which secure it to the roll bar. I sprayed water(with the water hose) for a long time and there did not appear to be any leaks. Unfortunately, I was wrong. After a strong rain storm overnight(the UM was closed and secured) there appears to be a leak again. The UM is securely tightened down at all points and is in the correct position. It cannot move forward. When I first drive the Jeep after a strong rainstorm(it has been parked during each rainstorm) water appears to be draining out the small hole in the UM channel above the driver and passenger doors. It is not a small amount of water. It appears to pool in the channel and then pour out when I move the Jeep.

I have not tried silicon over the bolts which attach the front of the UM to the frame yet. I thought the retightening of the bolts solved the issue. Does anyone have a picture of the front of the UM when it is off their Jeep? I'm trying to determine if there is another way for the water to enter this channel besides the bolts. I'll try the silicone route next and then possibly have the entire weather stripping around the clam shell pieces replaced.

I've checked and there never seems to be any leaking into the interior of the sleeping area. Any suggestions would help. Thank you.

Here are pictures of where the water appears to be exiting.

 

[BOHICA]

Looking for some help from UM owners. Awhile back I posted about water intrusion inside my Jeep. I have an UM and thought I solved the water issue by retightening the front bolts which secure it to the roll bar. I sprayed water(with the water hose) for a long time and there did not appear to be any leaks. Unfortunately, I was wrong. After a strong rain storm overnight(the UM was closed and secured) there appears to be a leak again. The UM is securely tightened down at all points and is in the correct position. It cannot move forward. When I first drive the Jeep after a strong rainstorm(it has been parked during each rainstorm) water appears to be draining out the small hole in the UM channel above the driver and passenger doors. It is not a small amount of water. It appears to pool in the channel and then pour out when I move the Jeep.

I have not tried silicon over the bolts which attach the front of the UM to the frame yet. I thought the retightening of the bolts solved the issue. Does anyone have a picture of the front of the UM when it is off their Jeep? I'm trying to determine if there is another way for the water to enter this channel besides the bolts. I'll try the silicone route next and then possibly have the entire weather stripping around the clam shell pieces replaced.

I've checked and there never seems to be any leaking into the interior of the sleeping area. Any suggestions would help. Thank you.

Here are pictures of where the water appears to be exiting.

Have you posted on the FB Ursa Minor Jeep Owners group page? Might get some good info.

 

[shays4me]

Looking for some help from UM owners. Awhile back I posted about water intrusion inside my Jeep. I have an UM and thought I solved the water issue by retightening the front bolts which secure it to the roll bar. I sprayed water(with the water hose) for a long time and there did not appear to be any leaks. Unfortunately, I was wrong. After a strong rain storm overnight(the UM was closed and secured) there appears to be a leak again. The UM is securely tightened down at all points and is in the correct position. It cannot move forward. When I first drive the Jeep after a strong rainstorm(it has been parked during each rainstorm) water appears to be draining out the small hole in the UM channel above the driver and passenger doors. It is not a small amount of water. It appears to pool in the channel and then pour out when I move the Jeep.

I have not tried silicon over the bolts which attach the front of the UM to the frame yet. I thought the retightening of the bolts solved the issue. Does anyone have a picture of the front of the UM when it is off their Jeep? I'm trying to determine if there is another way for the water to enter this channel besides the bolts. I'll try the silicone route next and then possibly have the entire weather stripping around the clam shell pieces replaced.

I've checked and there never seems to be any leaking into the interior of the sleeping area. Any suggestions would help. Thank you.

Here are pictures of where the water appears to be exiting.

I think it has to be entering through the bolts that go through though the roll cage. I’d definitely caulk them, but that’s not the leak origin. I’d look at every other hole in the top that’s along the outside edge first, like where the hing mechanism attaches. Those bolts commonly leak. A little exploration and I’m sure you’ll solve it. I don’t believe it has anything to do with the bulb seal because water is entering when the Jeep is sitting still.

 

[lenny6753]

Thanks for the replies. I haven’t tried the Facebook group yet but I’ll check it out. I did speak with someone at UM and they think the most likely issue is one of the bolts. I’ll undo each and place silicone caulk on each one. Hopefully that solves it. Thank you for your help.

 

[shays4me]

Thanks for the replies. I haven’t tried the Facebook group yet but I’ll check it out. I did speak with someone at UM and they think the most likely issue is one of the bolts. I’ll undo each and place silicone caulk on each one. Hopefully that solves it. Thank you for your help.

You don’t need to undo them. Just add the silicon to the top of the head and make sure it gets all the way around. Edit. I just reread this. If it is the bolts in the very top that they’re talking about then, yes, pull them out one at a time and put a little silicon on them. As for the ones that go through the roll bar you can just cover them.

 

[lenny6753]

Thanks again.

 

[Clymber]

@lenny6753 when I had my jeep with the Ursa top it constantly leaked. I bought the jeep with the Ursa already on it so not sure if its "jeep thing" or an "ursa thing" It would drop on both sides right on the door lock buttons. I tried caulk, truck cap tape padding stuff and never had any luck. Hopefully you will fair better than i

 

[lenny6753]

My UM has been on my jeep for about 3 years and probably 70,000 miles. The leaking has been a recent issue. I loosened every bolt on top and siliconed each one. Hopefully that will take care of it. Thanks again.