US 2WD NRR Build In Progress

gator70

Active member
At night it is not feasible to maintain 1000W of consumption for more than 3/4 hours. I would look at Mitsubishi Heavy, which has a 400W consumption unit, or Midea for the window, which also has a similar consumption, or I would simply look for a refrigeration specialist and make one tailored to the required consumption.

The RTX 2000 consumes between 20 - 45 amps. Mostly less.
 
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CowpokePaul

New member
There is something that doesn't fit, an appliance that consumes 1000W per hour shouldn't consume 100Ah per hour?
On Eco - it draws 19amps. At 12v - that’s 228w/h. And that’s only when the compressor is kicked in. It’s not the quietest unit - so you can tell when the compressor is engaged v. Just fan mode. If the outside temp drops and the inside meets the thermostat setting, you’ll just get the fan running.

So the actual draw will be influenced by your preferred temp, insulation, outside temp, etc.

I guess for the conditions we’ve run in, which have not been terrible at night, we burn about 200-250ah in an overnight period, all factors considered.
 

CowpokePaul

New member
Not yet. And truthfully for two front seat passengers it’s not too bad. We’re going to look at that, along with a stereo upgrade. We’ll rarely have more than just two on trips, so we’ll have to prioritize that upgrade accordingly.

I have seen a lot of Aussies sound deadening either DIY or through professional shops. A more powerful stereo and better speakers would be a nice upgrade…
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
This simple, and relatively cheap, modification will make a significant difference to the sound levels in the cab.
Don't under estimate how much of a difference using something like Dynamat in the cab will make to the comfort level.
 
This simple, and relatively cheap, modification will make a significant difference to the sound levels in the cab.
Don't under estimate how much of a difference using something like Dynamat in the cab will make to the comfort level.
The soundproofing of the cabin is on my list of top tasks, as soon as I start moving to the cabin I will literally dismantle the entire cabin.
 

DzlToy

Explorer
Please do some research on installing multiple sound damping products properly. The idea is to change the resonant (native) frequency of the panel (sheet metal roof or door, for example), to something much lower than the frequencies exciting that panel. It is NOT a good idea to cover everything in Dynamat, adding weight unnecessarily and taking dollars out of your pocket unnecessarily. You can waste a lot of money and end up with a mediocre end product very quickly.

Buy QUALITY products. ZiangWong sound mat, priced at $10 for a 1000 foot long roll is not what you want. Neither are Home Depot ice and water shield, speaker box cloth, yoga mats or other 'hacked materials'. If you are going to be living in this truck or travelling in it extensively, do this right, the first time.

Finally, no ONE product does everything. You need a series of products in layers, just as you would don a base layer, then a mid-layer, then a wind proof shell as an outer layer before snow skiing. Research topics/sites: Constrained Layer Damping/CLD tiles, Sound Deadener Showdown and Sound Cow.
 
Please do some research on installing multiple sound damping products properly. The idea is to change the resonant (native) frequency of the panel (sheet metal roof or door, for example), to something much lower than the frequencies exciting that panel. It is NOT a good idea to cover everything in Dynamat, adding weight unnecessarily and taking dollars out of your pocket unnecessarily. You can waste a lot of money and end up with a mediocre end product very quickly.

Buy QUALITY products. ZiangWong sound mat, priced at $10 for a 1000 foot long roll is not what you want. Neither are Home Depot ice and water shield, speaker box cloth, yoga mats or other 'hacked materials'. If you are going to be living in this truck or travelling in it extensively, do this right, the first time.

Finally, no ONE product does everything. You need a series of products in layers, just as you would don a base layer, then a mid-layer, then a wind proof shell as an outer layer before snow skiing. Research topics/sites: Constrained Layer Damping/CLD tiles, Sound Deadener Showdown and Sound Cow.
As an acoustician I was thinking of putting this.:,
the problem is that it does not solve the thermal problem. I think I would need another layer, perhaps of Kaiflex.
 

DzlToy

Explorer
No hablo Espanol.

Materials used to damp reverb, such as acoustic panels in ceilings or on the walls of recording studios or even an anechoic chamber, are again, not appropriate for this application. Presumably, the owner wants to block road noise from entering the cab. Reverb/voices from inside the camper, isn't an issue as it would be in a recording/performance space. Egg crate foam does nothing to damp sound. So add that to your list of hacked products that should be avoided.

I am not an expert, but have worked in low-voltage systems integration since 1995. Several jobs on sound stages, auditoriums, large churches, bars, restaurants, clubs and large meeting spaces have landed in my lap over the years. MOST people don't want to do things the right way, due to time, money, policies, bosses, building constraints, etc. Damping the cab of an NPR/NRR is cake, by comparison.

I encourage you to speak with people in the industry, some of whom you may already know, watch videos on sound control in residential and commercial spaces, speak with vendors about their products, attend trade shows, download technical PDFs, etc.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
When it comes to sound dampening expertise, I am no expert by any means, but in my personal experience with using Dynamat on my own truck (and some others) I was very happy with the noise reduction inside the cab after doing this modification.
I can speak at normal volumes in the cab and have no issues with hearing the passenger. The radio does not need to be blaring either in order to hear it.
Also, when I tap on the outside of the roof it is now more of a thud, opposed to the sound of an empty tin can.
Heat reduction is a lot more challenging, as there is a crap load of glass, but adding 10mm of high density insulation foam under the roof lining did make a bit of difference.
 

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