Use of Memory Clear and Diag Check for ECU Errors instead of MUT/OBD

[MI55U5]

What codes came back after you cleared them?

Haven't been able to get out for a drive yet, soon as I can get for one, will check the codes again.

 

[Umar]

Greetings everyone

I'm a newbie on the forums.

There's nowhere to introduce yourself on here from me looking.

I own a FB634 3.0D 4m42-0AT Recovery Truck

I had EML appearing on long journeys and it would go into limp mode ofcourse. Spluttering at 2k rpm iirc.
It came down to the pump. So I wasn't willing to pay £1k for the pump. Instead I bought another Canter and fitted the entire engine with Pump(untouched)
This ran well until I had to head to Scotland and the truck threw a Yellow the Red EML together.

I got it recovered back and thought what could it be?

So after researching for numerous days.. I found a place called QER Ltd who specialise in the EDU units on these Vp44 pumps.

I took the part with me in person and within an hour or so it was repaired.. Some components within the next the EDU needed replacing.
Upon refitting it, it ran like a dream for 3.5 Years. No issues whatsoever until recently...

I was driving along in 2nd at low speed and all of a sudden.. The truck without signs switched off
It would turn but won't start.
So AA to the rescue and suspected it to be the pump after testing certain components as it would only start on Easy Start.

So I removed the pump. Took off the EDU unit and went up to QER once again(last week)

The Fella (Paul) great chap said it was Fried.. And fortunately managed to solve it and guarantee it's 100%.

So I refitted this and the blummy thing won't start.
I've checked everything that I can but nothing seems to be out of place.
The truck starts with Easy Start only.. But won't Rev with Pedal.
I've even pulled it along and tried bumping it numerous times.. It starts but as soon as it slows down or you press the clutch.... It stalls

Yellow EML stays on as soon as you start it.

So I know it has an old OBD port with 2 wires and a diag check single wire plug and a reset too.
I've pulled the diag and Red EML flashes 3 long.. So 30 I believe?

I don't know what this code is or if I'm diagnosing it correctly?

So I'm in need of your help people please.

Before I remove the pump later this afternoon and take it to a place nearby whom check these Vp44s on the bench.. Is there anything I should check?

As for Timing of these Pumps with the Engine Top Pulleys. Is there an indicator on the Pump to determine where exactly to slot it back in?

I'm asking as I could have screwed up or maybe not.

Would you think it could be a Relay(yellow one below the fuse box)?
I don't have any wiring diagrams or information at hand as its ran pretty well and rather Reliable throughout my ownership of 6+years minus the pump issue.. Which was a very cheap fix.

If anyone has then please shed some light?

Kind Regards

P.s I shall check here for anyone who can help before removal today.

Thanks in Advance

Umar

Pps
Pete(Canter Diesel)
I hope you have had some joy with your truck?

If only you were more local. could swap parts to get yours running tip top.. Unless its the same problem as mine. Haha

 

[Umar]

Just an update on this..

The Pumps Spill Valve is blown
Code 50 and 51


I was wandering if anyone has a spare Pump I can chop and change to get mine working?

Thanks

 

[Canter Diesel]

Hi Umar,
I had the slave wire put in. It still went into safe mode, however it was just for a split second. Returning from me 34 miles journey it went back into safe mode, stayed in for approximately 400metres and came back out again. I was told that the chap will look further into the wiring. He only ran a wire from the pump to the ECU and not the EML. We will do this in due course, though the truck is still drivable even in safe mode, just not great with a load on it. Originally the problem was the pump's cam shaft timing sensor inside the pump. Unfortunately the other issue is the wiring.
Sorry I can't help you with your truck, though a lot of the time it is in the wiring. My safe mode is a low voltage on the CTS which is why we are looking to by pass all wiring connected to this sensor.
I did have on one occasion have the red and orange EML come on. This was another issue we couldn't find, eventually we found a blown fuse, we replaced it and not had that issue again. I think this was caused by a short when we were under the dash pulling at wires?

 

[Umar]

Canter Diesel

If you can email me your contact number please.. I would grateful mate....

umar.r32@gmail.com

Thank you

 

[Canter Diesel]

There is some good progress on the issue with the lorry going into safe mode whenever it feels like it.
I bought a wiring loom off Umar (here on the forum) which I installed. However I discovered that 7 or more of the plug connections were different which made the swap far too awkward to complete. My son came to visit and was helping me reinstall the old loom when he noticed the main connections between the chassis plugs and cab terminals were all corroded and blue with powdery substance. He said, this is where all the issues are! He cleaned up the terminals as best as he could with just a very tiny scrapper and some electrical cleaner. I have driven over 1500 miles and only had it go into safe mode a few times at low speeds, but comes straight back out again. My son said to get all these connections replaced by an auto electrician and you will have a lorry that will not go into safe!!!
Can't thank him enough and to think he is a warehouse worker with more nouse than the highly overpaid so called experts who have cost me £3000 in parts, labour and wrongly diagnosed offerings. To think one auto electrician wanted nearly £3500 just to replace some wiring behind the dash.....Dash out job there and labour intense (and it wouldn't been fixed).............Yer right, I had the dash and wiring loom out and back in in a day, including lunch and doing other stuff!
Once I have found a good auto electrician, I think this will be fixed for ever......Fingers crossed

 

[SkiFreak]

I hate to point it out, but it has been mentioned many times on this forum that the earth connections on these trucks should be one of the first places to inspect if there are electrical related issues.

 

[Canter Diesel]

I hate to point it out, but it has been mentioned many times on this forum that the earth connections on these trucks should be one of the first places to inspect if there are electrical related issues.

Many thanks for that. It was the very first thing that was done not long after I purchased the truck. We started with all the earth points along the chassis, removed sanded back to bare metal around the bolt and copper slipped. All the engine bay was treated in the same way over the next many months and finally when I had the dash out I cleaned up all the earth points there too, although these were all very clean anyway.
I blink code always comes back a Cam Timing Sensor. Once we had seen the corrosion inside the main connectors inside the joiner box and have cleaned these up as best as we can, it seldom goes into safe mode now. There didn't appear to be any earth points connected to this area. I expect that the corrosion will come back in these connections as although the box in which they are housed is water tight, dampness and humidity can still attack the terminals.
Like all electrical issues, bad earthing is the first port of call.

 

[SkiFreak]

I expect that the corrosion will come back in these connections as although the box in which they are housed is water tight, dampness and humidity can still attack the terminals.

You could try bicarb soda to remove the corrosion and then use dielectric grease inside the housing to limit any moisture ingress.