Welding Equipment - questions/recommendations?

[dieselcruiserhead]

No one has mentioned the Millermatic DVI machines.. This is what I have, it is awesome. Sort of like a MM180 on roids. The key with strength of machines is not the peak amps but the operating amps. The mm runs at 140. My DVI at 150. A 212 at 160 or 170. Duty cycle is important too but borderline unapplicable unless you are doing major fab projects...

The DVI machine which is sort of like between a 212 and a 180 has tons of power. The big expensive machines like a 252 machine are awesome and I might someday but one I suppose (maybe) but the DVI literally does everything I need it to. It also does sheet metal and runs in 110 model, or 220 for frame fab etc. And is fairly inexpensive. It also is an amazing-welding machine, very smooth and very nice.. I also owned a Lincoln 135 machine and used Flux. Never again... For an unlimited budget I would buy a smaller machine with gas for sheet metal and thin-walled projects using .025 wire. And then a larger machine like a DVI, 212, or 252 machine for the big projects. The DVI machine will do a claimed 3/8" in a single pass and it really lets out the juice, it goes to "7" and I rarely use it past 5 or 6 even with major structural frame stuff. So I would not waste the money on something you'll seldom use, unless you have it to spend...

 

[oldcj5guy]

Mentioned the DVI in post #13...

My buddy bought one this year and it's pretty nice. He is renting an apartment while he saves for a house so the 110 capabilities work for him until he gets a house with 220. I have a 210 and a 130, and will soon have a syncrowave tig to add to the collection. Miller is definitely the way to go.
Now I just need to grab a plasma cutter.....

 

[goodtimes]

See, my thinking so far is that anything I buy is going to be expensive (comparing prices and specs at the store).

I'd prefer to get something that can do everything if I want to expand, especially since I'm seriously considering getting into metal fab for offroad bumpers and stuff not just for myself but as a potential business.

Personally, I usually tell people to figure out how much welder they need, then double it. But in this case, I won't say anything like that. Obviously, it is your $$$, and you are free to spend it how you want...

...but for "off road bumpers and stuff", you simply are not going to need an engine driven welder, unless you are doing field repairs....even then, there are more affordable options.

It is rare, on automotive applications, that you exceed 1/4" thickness. Truth be told....most bumpers and sliders are made from 11ga (.120"...or just a hair under 1/8"). Skid plates are typically 3/16, some as much as 1/4". Once you get thicker than that, they simply weight to much. You stiffen them up with gussets and braces, not by increasing cross section. Splash guards are rarely greater than 16 ga. All of that can be handled with a machine in the 175 range.

Duty cycle is important....as mentioned previously by someone (forgot who)...30% is acceptable for home use. 60% is acceptable for heavy home / light industrial use.

Seriously, a MM210 (or 212 now), will allow you to run 3/8" plate in a single pass....more than enough for the auto fabrication industry. In the rare occasion that you need to go thicker...run multiple passes. Personally, I have repaired as thick as 1" plate with my MM210. It wasn't fun...it wasn't pretty.....but it worked.

Unless you NEED the TIG capacity (and sometimes you do), there isn't much call for it. Personally, it is a major pain to run TIG...especially if you don't need to.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

See, my thinking so far is that anything I buy is going to be expensive (comparing prices and specs at the store).

I'd prefer to get something that can do everything if I want to expand, especially since I'm seriously considering getting into metal fab for offroad bumpers and stuff not just for myself but as a potential business....

If your doing fab, then the engine driven unit is getting even more impracticle IMO, to have an engine running for hours while you mock up a bumper or sliders is grossly inefficient IMO. Sure if your doing production welding it might make sense, but not at a cost savings. You just can beat the practicality (is that a word ) of a wall powered maching in a shop setting.

Your wouldn't be spending the money twice. Buy the Bobcat and you still have to buy a MIG, a TIG and a Plasma, it doesn't have them built in. So either you accrue the cost now, or accrue it later. The Bobcat too my knowledge doesn't have any of those features built in, the only thing it does as act as a power supply and a stick device, but again stick is kind've old-school when it comes to fab, MIG will solve all of your needs. I work with plenty of fab shops, from onesy-twosy custom stuff to fab all day everyday, I've never heard one of them wish they had a engine driven welder

 

[CodyLX450]

I appreciate the responses.

The 212 looks like the way to go for the MIG unit, I'll try to negotiate the 212 instead of the 180 into the deal since it has better thickness specs and twice the duty cycle.

 

[MoGas]

I have a Miller 220v stick welder and an Ox-Acetylene rig at home, and at work, depending on the job, I have a Lincoln TIG, a Lincoln portable 220 MIG, the same Miller stick rig that I have at home, or for delicate items, I have a Ronin Laser welder. You will be better served with a rig that is a dedicated welder vs a generator/welder. If you wanted one for your Lexy, I'd recommend the Premier Power welder.

I've always gotten by in the bush with a rod, jumper cables, and a couple batteries though.

 

[AndrewP]

I appreciate the responses.

The 212 looks like the way to go for the MIG unit, I'll try to negotiate the 212 instead of the 180 into the deal since it has better thickness specs and twice the duty cycle.

That is an excellent plan. Like I said, the MM210 (now the 212) is just a kick *** machine. 3/8 is easy and you rarely need to weld that thick.

Don't get too caught up in the hype. You don't need the engine driven generator if you have wall power. Your neighbors will hate you if you run the power unit, and like Kurt said, 99% of the time you are fitting or grinding, and you don't want to run the power unit the whole time. For me it's weld 10 seconds, grind for 5 minutes, weld 10 seconds, wire brush 5 minutes, grind 5 minutes, weld 10 seconds etc. With the motor unit you have to leave it on all the time. That's gonna suck!

Here is my start sequence:

1-turn on the machine
2-set the machine to the thickness being welded
3-Weld

With the units you are looking at:

1-Pull the giant beast out of it's hole, and move it close to the work
2-Crank it until start
3-Adjust the choke
4-Let it warm up
5-Set the machine for thickness
6-weld
7-turn off the machine
8-Put the giant beast back in the hole
9-Repeat 100 times every time you stop and start
10-change the oil, spark plugs, air filter


Seriously, forget the engine driven units. Just get a 212 and start welding.

 

[oldcj5guy]

That is an excellent plan. Like I said, the MM210 (now the 212) is just a kick *** machine. 3/8 is easy and you rarely need to weld that thick.

Don't get too caught up in the hype. You don't need the engine driven generator if you have wall power. Your neighbors will hate you if you run the power unit, and like Kurt said, 99% of the time you are fitting or grinding, and you don't want to run the power unit the whole time. For me it's weld 10 seconds, grind for 5 minutes, weld 10 seconds, wire brush 5 minutes, grind 5 minutes, weld 10 seconds etc. With the motor unit you have to leave it on all the time. That's gonna suck!

Here is my start sequence:

1-turn on the machine
2-set the machine to the thickness being welded
3-Weld

With the units you are looking at:

1-Pull the giant beast out of it's hole, and move it close to the work
2-Crank it until start
3-Adjust the choke
4-Let it warm up
5-Set the machine for thickness
6-weld
7-turn off the machine
8-Put the giant beast back in the hole
9-Repeat 100 times every time you stop and start
10-change the oil, spark plugs, air filter


Seriously, forget the engine driven units. Just get a 212 and start welding.

I have none of these problems with my unit. It starts right up every time even after sitting for a month or 2 without being used. I can start welding pretty much right off the bat. Starting and stopping the engine for prep and stuff never causes me any problems. I use mine in pretty harsh arctic climates most of the time too.

 

[AndrewP]

I have none of these problems with my unit. It starts right up every time even after sitting for a month or 2 without being used. I can start welding pretty much right off the bat. Starting and stopping the engine for prep and stuff never causes me any problems. I use mine in pretty harsh arctic climates most of the time too.

I'm exagerrating a little bit. The point is, if you have house power, getting a motor driven welder is stupid. The noise alone is enough to say that this is a bad idea. They excell at welding where access to power is difficult. Like out in a field, on a farm, or on an un-improved job site. But for welding around the house???? Way more hassle than needed.

The interesting thing is, once you own a welder, you can't imagine how you lived without it. Mine gets pulled out every few weeks even for minor repairs.

The problem is that a welder makes you want other things, like a plasma cutter, drill press and a torch. Then you want a mill and a lathe and.......

 

[upatree]

Welders!

I like em all. They all have + & - . I like stick and have booth 220 and gas. With stick you can use different rods for different aps. with out having to change mig gas or the mig gun liners. Make sure your stick mach has both ac/dc as dc will give you the flexibility you want and need. Mig is great. Have both a 110 and a 220 with lots of power. Nice and clean welds. Little to no clean up. Being able to trigger the gun is also an advantage in controlling the weld esp in an out of position weld. I use the 110 with finer wire than the 220 which lets me do lighter gage easier. Plasma is great but you must have a steady hand. You move and it cuts. Be sure to check the duty cycles. You can live with the low duty cycle on the 110 mig but will want at least 60% on the others at the highest amps or power setting you think you might use. The same goes for the plasma. Typically a 375 or 3/8 mach is good up to 3/16 and even that is at a relatively slow inches per minute. Hope this helps. If you want to come down to Tucson PM me and you can try all of them out .

 

[goodtimes]

Plasma is great but you must have a steady hand. You move and it cuts.

There is a solution for that problem. Find something to use as a guide. Strait lines are easy....find a strait edge and go at it. I have even used a paint stir stick in a pinch. For round shapes, I have seen people use blocks of wood cut to the right radius...even old pie-pans (when the wife wasn't looking). I even know of a couple guys out in CA that will tack weld a small piece of round stock to the project, bending it into the right shape, tacking it into place, and using that as a guide. Then just break the tack welds off and grind them down....

 

[upatree]

plasma guide

I agree using a guide is a great idea and i use them all of the time. However the fact remains that if you wiggle the cut will wiggle right along with your wiggle. A great guide is a dry wall T-square and the 12" combo squares with the lip on one edge.

 

[MaddBaggins]

I really like my Miller DVI (Dual Voltage Input) it has 2 different plugs for 230v or 120v. The 120v option is nice for small gauge and for home projects I can drag an extension cord anywhere around the yard and weld wherever. I've welded up to 1/2" with it and as small as 16ga sheet metal (it's rated down to 22ga but I haven't tried anything that small yet).
here's the specs
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermatic_dvi2/
I have the DVI, here's a link to the DVI2, the new version. other than cosmetic, I don't see any differences in the unit.


Input Power

* Requires 1-phase power

Rated Output

* 230 V operation: 150A at 23 VDC, 40% Duty Cycle
* 115 V operation: 90A at 18 VDC,
20% Duty Cycle

Welding Amperage Range

* 30 - 175 Amps

Wire Speed

* 50 - 700 IPM (1.3 - 17.8 m/min)

Net Weight

* 169 lb (77 kg)

 

[MaddBaggins]

I also have an Oxy/Acetyline rig for cutting and heating/forging and in a pinch, welding. A plasma can make a cleaner cut if you're steady, but a torch is a lot cheaper and can make a pretty nice cut also. If you know how to adjust it.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Re: Miller DVI... you can delete one leg from a standard 220V unit and make it a 110V unit, granted it isn't nearly as easy as the DVI but if you have an older unit its pretty cake to do.