Scott Brady
Founder
mcvickoffroad said:
:xxrotflma :luxhello:
Welding!
- Thread starter Brian McVickers
- Start date
:xxrotflma :luxhello:
datrupr
Expedition Leader
You know, I don't think I have spoken up on this thread yet, but I too want to learn to weld. I told my wife this last night when we were watching Discovery Channel and she just gave me this blank look for about 5 minutes, then she said to me that I was crazy.
Now I am sure about it, I wanna learn how to weld.
Now I am sure about it, I wanna learn how to weld.
Scott Brady
Founder
Yeah, welding is one of those primal tendancies. It involves FIRE, and sparks fly everywhere... Even my neighbor, who is an accountant looked in my garage and said, "oh, you have a WELDER", with a little grin curling from the corner of his mouth...
Argh argh argh :ar15:
Here is Bajataco a few nights ago during out "super trick" winch install session:
Argh argh argh :ar15:
Here is Bajataco a few nights ago during out "super trick" winch install session:
goodtimes
Expedition Poseur
Lesson #1: Protect your eyes, or something WILL get stuck in them. Then you will ignore it and it will start to rust. Then, the next day you will be in the local clinic while a doctor literally drills out the piece of metal (it almost looks like Chris is wearing safety glasses....kinda hard to tell...if he is, good on 'ya!)
Lesson #2: Protect your ears. Grinding will create enough noise to permanently damage your ear drums. You only get one set...protect 'em.
Lesson #3: Hold the grinder in such a fashion as to throw the sparks away from the band saw and the truck (good job in the pic), but be sure to also direct the sparks away from the beer. This will lead to tragedy if ignored.
Lesson #4: Don't move all your steel stock before you close on the house. The deal may fall through which leaves you in the house with no steel to build stuff out of. This is also very sad. You will have ample supply of beer, but no metal to burn.
Lesson #2: Protect your ears. Grinding will create enough noise to permanently damage your ear drums. You only get one set...protect 'em.
Lesson #3: Hold the grinder in such a fashion as to throw the sparks away from the band saw and the truck (good job in the pic), but be sure to also direct the sparks away from the beer. This will lead to tragedy if ignored.
Lesson #4: Don't move all your steel stock before you close on the house. The deal may fall through which leaves you in the house with no steel to build stuff out of. This is also very sad. You will have ample supply of beer, but no metal to burn.
Scott Brady
Founder
Chris was wearing eye protection. So was I. :clapsmile
:clapsmile
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goodtimes
Expedition Poseur
Smart move Scott (and Chris). You only get one set......and I have found sunsets look better with both of 'em working properly.
I guess that is something that should be mentioned since this is a welding thread.....Please be sure you are using the appropriate shade of lens when welding. Not all lenses are created equil.......if you are going to be ARC welding (stick welding, SMAW), you can damage your eyes with less than a #12.....MIG and TIG you can get away with less tint, but personally, I only keep one hood around, so it has a 12 in it, this way I am covered no matter what process I use (despite the fact that I only have a MIG at home). If you are even in doubt, ask the guy at the welding supply house when you pick up your consumables, they will steer you in the right direction.
Also, auto-darkening helmets may seem overkill....but I gotta say, I bought one a couple years ago and I don't know how I lived without it! Kinda like going from a desktop computer to a laptop w/wireless.....
Now, how about some "finished" pics of the new version of the bajataco bumper?
I guess that is something that should be mentioned since this is a welding thread.....Please be sure you are using the appropriate shade of lens when welding. Not all lenses are created equil.......if you are going to be ARC welding (stick welding, SMAW), you can damage your eyes with less than a #12.....MIG and TIG you can get away with less tint, but personally, I only keep one hood around, so it has a 12 in it, this way I am covered no matter what process I use (despite the fact that I only have a MIG at home). If you are even in doubt, ask the guy at the welding supply house when you pick up your consumables, they will steer you in the right direction.
Also, auto-darkening helmets may seem overkill....but I gotta say, I bought one a couple years ago and I don't know how I lived without it! Kinda like going from a desktop computer to a laptop w/wireless.....
Now, how about some "finished" pics of the new version of the bajataco bumper?
MaddBaggins
Explorer
Lesson #5 If you are wearing a button up shirt, make sure it's buttoned all the way up while welding or you will get sunburned. :smilies27
vanguard
Adventurer
I'm a welding newb. I probably have about 100 feet of experience and I was taught by my father-in-law. He is very good and did it professionally for a few years. Still, I'm a bit in front of you so I'll share what I know.
1) Stick welders make it difficult to produce good looking welds but they are typically very strong because getting good penetration is easy. They are also cheap. That is what I use. (Lincoln AC220 I think)
2) Mig welders are easier to make good looking welds with but they are more expensive and can produce weak but attractive welds in the hands of a novice.
3) Tig welders are typically for thinner materials such as sheet metal. They are very expensive too.
4) Welders can last a lifetime in a hobbiest's shop. Get a good version of whatever you choose.
5) Eye protection is serious when working with metal. I think everybody has done something around the house without proper saftey gear. Does anybody put on eye protection to hammer a nail? Working with metal is different. Metal shards and sparks fly everywhere. The weld is about 5,000 degrees. Even drilling is fairly dangerous. I like a full face mask like this one. They are light and shards/sparks seem to find their way past regular saftey glasses.
6) For hearing, I bought a pack of 250 ear plugs for $20. They are great if you know how to put them in. For an extended session on the chop saw or grinder sometimes I'll double up. Double hearing protection just makes it more pleasent.
7) Heavy leather gloves are a must. Just but the best thing that Home Depot sells for about $15. You wear them for welding, and grinding but not drilling. They can grab and get you hurt.
8) Buy a soapstone marking tool. You'll be happy you did.
9) Jeans are good for welding, shorts are asking for trouble. If you jeans have big fuzzy holes at then knees (like most of my shop clothes) they *will* catch fire. Sometimes several times a day. Don't ask me how I know this.
The guys are grabbing me for lunch time. That's all for now.
1) Stick welders make it difficult to produce good looking welds but they are typically very strong because getting good penetration is easy. They are also cheap. That is what I use. (Lincoln AC220 I think)
2) Mig welders are easier to make good looking welds with but they are more expensive and can produce weak but attractive welds in the hands of a novice.
3) Tig welders are typically for thinner materials such as sheet metal. They are very expensive too.
4) Welders can last a lifetime in a hobbiest's shop. Get a good version of whatever you choose.
5) Eye protection is serious when working with metal. I think everybody has done something around the house without proper saftey gear. Does anybody put on eye protection to hammer a nail? Working with metal is different. Metal shards and sparks fly everywhere. The weld is about 5,000 degrees. Even drilling is fairly dangerous. I like a full face mask like this one. They are light and shards/sparks seem to find their way past regular saftey glasses.
6) For hearing, I bought a pack of 250 ear plugs for $20. They are great if you know how to put them in. For an extended session on the chop saw or grinder sometimes I'll double up. Double hearing protection just makes it more pleasent.
7) Heavy leather gloves are a must. Just but the best thing that Home Depot sells for about $15. You wear them for welding, and grinding but not drilling. They can grab and get you hurt.
8) Buy a soapstone marking tool. You'll be happy you did.
9) Jeans are good for welding, shorts are asking for trouble. If you jeans have big fuzzy holes at then knees (like most of my shop clothes) they *will* catch fire. Sometimes several times a day. Don't ask me how I know this.
The guys are grabbing me for lunch time. That's all for now.
Thanks Vanguard
I am slowly collecting all of the accessories I need and may be welding by the end of the month. My wife kind of wants to put my new-to-me welder that we just got under the tree for the holidays! Since I'm still setting up my workspace I figure that's ok and will be a fun addition to the gift giving entertainment of the season!
I am slowly collecting all of the accessories I need and may be welding by the end of the month. My wife kind of wants to put my new-to-me welder that we just got under the tree for the holidays! Since I'm still setting up my workspace I figure that's ok and will be a fun addition to the gift giving entertainment of the season!
Scott Brady
Founder
Vangard,
Great advice! Thanks
Great advice! Thanks
vanguard
Adventurer
A few more metal working thoughts that might help you out.
* When drilling, the key is pressure not bit speed. I must have wasted $50 in bits before I learned to slow the drill down, keep it lubricated, and press harder. I use WD40 as the lube but if somebody has something better I'd listen. It's too bad that bit speed isn't good it's easy, just pull the trigger. Pressure is just hard work, especially if you're on your back under the truck. I find a cordless drill set to slow speed to be pretty good. Maybe even better than a corded drill.
* If you use a stick welder you'll be tempted to knock a little slag off without eye protection. Don't do it. We're talking about something like molten rock flying in unpredictable directions. (I know, this is sort of a duplicate but I'm hoping that you'll think of this when the urge hits you. )
* I find that a separate wire brush and hammer is much better than the wire brush/hammer combo tool.
* My favorite stick is the 7018. It splatters less and leaves a nicer looking weld. If the material I'm welding is especially yucky or even painted I use a 6018.
* Somewhere around 100 amps is good for general welding on bumpers/sliders with a 1/8" stick.
* (This is a good one.) If you have a hard time getting the arc to start, rub the stick on the concrete until more metal shows. If it still won't start turn up the amps.
* Too many amps will burn through the metal (which is tricky to fix). Not enough amps will give poor penetration and it will be hard to start the arc.
* If you have the budget, buying two 4 1/2" grinders is a great idea. One for grinding and one for cutting. The $40 dewalt grinder is a good choice. I must have 200 hours on mine and I love it. (I use it for woodworking too.)
* When you weld, the metal want to bend toward the weld. So if you weld a square tube to a plate it will bend over so that there is a gap on the side opposite the weld. For that reason, you should tack down opposite sides until all 4 are tacked. After that you can weld it fully. You might want to do a light weld, clean it up, then weld again to prevent the plate from warping.
* Know your welder's duty cycle. If you're like me you spend a lot more time setting things up than welding but sometimes I'll get all my tacks in place then really go at it for a while. When that happens I could exceed my welder's 2 out of 10 minute duty cycle if I wasn't aware of it. Shouldn't be a problem since I'm not going at 200 amps but it's good to be easy on the welder.
* Leave the welder on between welds. The fan is cooling things off.
Well, that's the basics. When you make something post some pics.
* When drilling, the key is pressure not bit speed. I must have wasted $50 in bits before I learned to slow the drill down, keep it lubricated, and press harder. I use WD40 as the lube but if somebody has something better I'd listen. It's too bad that bit speed isn't good it's easy, just pull the trigger. Pressure is just hard work, especially if you're on your back under the truck. I find a cordless drill set to slow speed to be pretty good. Maybe even better than a corded drill.
* If you use a stick welder you'll be tempted to knock a little slag off without eye protection. Don't do it. We're talking about something like molten rock flying in unpredictable directions. (I know, this is sort of a duplicate but I'm hoping that you'll think of this when the urge hits you.
)* I find that a separate wire brush and hammer is much better than the wire brush/hammer combo tool.
* My favorite stick is the 7018. It splatters less and leaves a nicer looking weld. If the material I'm welding is especially yucky or even painted I use a 6018.
* Somewhere around 100 amps is good for general welding on bumpers/sliders with a 1/8" stick.
* (This is a good one.) If you have a hard time getting the arc to start, rub the stick on the concrete until more metal shows. If it still won't start turn up the amps.
* Too many amps will burn through the metal (which is tricky to fix). Not enough amps will give poor penetration and it will be hard to start the arc.
* If you have the budget, buying two 4 1/2" grinders is a great idea. One for grinding and one for cutting. The $40 dewalt grinder is a good choice. I must have 200 hours on mine and I love it. (I use it for woodworking too.)
* When you weld, the metal want to bend toward the weld. So if you weld a square tube to a plate it will bend over so that there is a gap on the side opposite the weld. For that reason, you should tack down opposite sides until all 4 are tacked. After that you can weld it fully. You might want to do a light weld, clean it up, then weld again to prevent the plate from warping.
* Know your welder's duty cycle. If you're like me you spend a lot more time setting things up than welding but sometimes I'll get all my tacks in place then really go at it for a while. When that happens I could exceed my welder's 2 out of 10 minute duty cycle if I wasn't aware of it. Shouldn't be a problem since I'm not going at 200 amps but it's good to be easy on the welder.
* Leave the welder on between welds. The fan is cooling things off.
Well, that's the basics. When you make something post some pics.
goodtimes
Expedition Poseur
Something that took me awhile to realize with a ARC welder....it is much easier to strike an arc by rubbing the electrode on the work surface...like writing on a black board with a piece of chalk, not by tapping the work surface with the end of the electrode. 7018 is good general purpose rod....6010 has done well for me too....but in all honesty, if I can avoid the stick, I do. I'm much happier with my MIG.
If you are going to use a grinder alot...don't waste your time with cheap tools. I went through several Milwaukee's and a dewalt before I figured this out. For just a couple bucks more than a milwaukee, you can get a Metabo. Night and day difference in how smooth it runs, and how long is lasts. I was having motors put in the Milwaukees every 10 - 12 months...the metabo has been running for about 3 years now. Quality cutting wheels make a big difference too. Buy them from your local welding supply instead of home depot. They cost 25% more, last 100% longer, and run smoother.
If you are going to use a grinder alot...don't waste your time with cheap tools. I went through several Milwaukee's and a dewalt before I figured this out. For just a couple bucks more than a milwaukee, you can get a Metabo. Night and day difference in how smooth it runs, and how long is lasts. I was having motors put in the Milwaukees every 10 - 12 months...the metabo has been running for about 3 years now. Quality cutting wheels make a big difference too. Buy them from your local welding supply instead of home depot. They cost 25% more, last 100% longer, and run smoother.
It's interesting that your Metabo lasted so long, I have found just the oppisite to be true, but in the granite business, we use grinders harder than anyone, plus the extreme dust factor. The biggest problem I had with the Metabo was bearing life, and accessiblility to parts. We switched to Makita 9564cv's 2 yrs ago and are really happy. The best thing is that the Makita is the same price if not cheaper and also vari-speed so that you can use 1 machine for everything. Plus it has a 12amp motor w/electronic brake to reduce kickback quite a bit. They are also much easier to find that Metabo's.
But to each his own.
But to each his own.