What 80 series Mods and PM do you have planned next?

Mauka2Makai

Explorer
The balance of PM and Mods is always a tricky situation when money is not flowing like Coors on tap. Shall I pursue the axle rebuilds or slider steps? Engine rebuild or dual swing away rear bumper? When every dollar is of value and gas is at a premium for your vehicle... What route is best to follow? My plan is to continue to perform PM more so... by staying in-tune with my vehicles PM schedule and daily health, all while continuing to address the all too familiar MOD addiction. So how will I address both? Since my birfs aren't leaking and my diffs aren't soupy... I'll continue to just change the fluid regularly until I reach around 200k +or- 5k. The engine is running smooth as ever, so I'm thinking another 50k until I'll start considering engine / head gasket plans. Mods are always way more fun than pm anyways, but both are equally important.
So really, whats next for the LC? PM... axles and engine, but I'm shooting for a tune up before the two. As for Mods... I'm having a bit of a dilemma deciding between sliders and a rear bumper next. I'm leaning more so towards a rear bumper to move the fuel cans off the roof or just carry two more, but most importantly to free up some space in the rear cargo area... get that spare on the rear bumper. That will lead to storage drawers then fridge. Does this make sense? What do you have planned next? :ylsmoke:
 
The balance of PM and Mods is always a tricky situation when money is not flowing like Coors on tap. Shall I pursue the axle rebuilds or slider steps? Engine rebuild or dual swing away rear bumper? When every dollar is of value and gas is at a premium for your vehicle... What route is best to follow? My plan is to continue to perform PM more so... by staying in-tune with my vehicles PM schedule and daily health, all while continuing to address the all too familiar MOD addiction. So how will I address both? Since my birfs aren't leaking and my diffs aren't soupy... I'll continue to just change the fluid regularly until I reach around 200k +or- 5k. The engine is running smooth as ever, so I'm thinking another 50k until I'll start considering engine / head gasket plans. Mods are always way more fun than pm anyways, but both are equally important.
So really, whats next for the LC? PM... axles and engine, but I'm shooting for a tune up before the two. As for Mods... I'm having a bit of a dilemma deciding between sliders and a rear bumper next. I'm leaning more so towards a rear bumper to move the fuel cans off the roof or just carry two more, but most importantly to free up some space in the rear cargo area... get that spare on the rear bumper. That will lead to storage drawers then fridge. Does this make sense? What do you have planned next? :ylsmoke:
It is a delicate balance. For me I chose lift tires sliders and skid plates. Here was my reasoning not having it wasn't going to stop me from using it and breaking more than needs to be loved shall we say. Plus I figuired getting money later to do mods would be harder than getting money to do maitanace. But now comes maintance and repairs; need to replace muffler (a cuasulty of war), my birfs are leaking and brakes are starting to act a little funny at slow speed.
 

94SRUNNER

Adventurer
PM - Upcoming is fuel filter and fuel pump sock, swaybay re-fresh (new bushings and mounting hardware), parking brake re-build/refresh, power steering box is seeping fluid and needs to be re-built soon. Several other items, but most are not high priority.

Mods - OME 861 & 862 springs and Nitro Charger Sports shocks (they are sitting in the garage just waiting to be installed), TJM T17 bumper (funds are there, but not a high priority at this point), New tires are due maybe this fall or winter, but are not an immediate need.

Most of the things on this list are likely to be put on the back burner as my wife is due with our first child very soon. I would like to get the suspension install before the baby, but time is always a factor.
 

coax

Adventurer
Lets see:
  • Finish the rear swingout bumper I am building. Turned out to be much more work than anticipated :Wow1:
  • Install the rear fox shox
  • Fix the Drivers side window. Won't roll down anymore. Was just slow before.
  • Oil change is due soon.
  • New toyota air filter.
  • Figure out how to add in a cabin air filter. The lack of one is driving me crazy.

Thats about it for the forseeable future. My projects tend to go at a glacial pace.:)
 
Lets see:
  • Finish the rear swingout bumper I am building. Turned out to be much more work than anticipated :Wow1:
  • Install the rear fox shox
  • Fix the Drivers side window. Won't roll down anymore. Was just slow before.
  • Oil change is due soon.
  • New toyota air filter.
  • Figure out how to add in a cabin air filter. The lack of one is driving me crazy.

Thats about it for the forseeable future. My projects tend to go at a glacial pace.:)
Are there any real fixes for those windows? All mine seem to be slow, but more so as the temps drop.
 

REDrum

Aventurero de la Selva
Just wrapped up having both axles rebuilt and regeared (4.88)

Next mod, full (u-pol) bed coat all over body in white :ylsmoke:

After that, limb risers and 20% tint all around
 
New radiator at 213k... Just got some used front mud flaps, now I need the screws to attach them. My budget for new mods is gonna be about zero for a while though. :\
 

coax

Adventurer
Are there any real fixes for those windows? All mine seem to be slow, but more so as the temps drop.

Not sure. Some folks have reported good results after replacing most of the components. Right now I think I have switch problem cause it was slow, now it doesn't move. Next step is to fix that and maybe replace the spring piece, whatever its called.
 

REDrum

Aventurero de la Selva
Are there any real fixes for those windows? All mine seem to be slow, but more so as the temps drop.

My windows would only work when engine was running and had >13v power I replaced the harness for power everything in the drivers door (418 bux) and relays down at bottom of "A" pillar (37 bux) and all power windows go up/like new. Since the harness goes through the door and jamb it fatigues, like a coat hanger. The smaller/more fatigued the wire gets the less it can draw.
 
Planning to PM the rear axle next weekend. I did the front about a year ago and just haven't gotten around to doing the rear as there haven't been any issues. It's been bothering me though that I have about 178K on the clock (bought it at 150K) and I'm pretty sure it's never been done. Shame on me for waiting so long, although I did change the rear diff fluid as part of doing all the fluids in the truck when I bought it.

As far as mods go, I recently purchased a hand throttle...that will take all of 30 minutes to install, if that. Over the next few weeks I am planning to install some rear drawers (finally!), and I'm in the process of getting all the parts together to install a dual battery, upgrade the wiring and install an inverter.

If nothing breaks on the truck after these projects, I'll be able to squirrel away some money to make it actually LOOK like a proper land cruiser, with some front and rear armor, and a winch. Maybe even a snorkel! :) ...aahh, someday.
 
Thanks Guys!!! You would think there would be a better fix since it is a common problem with these things. I mean yea replacing with new wire and what not is going to bring it back to new but same problem is goin to happen again. As an example wifes car 250k miles windows work great my jetta (just sold) has 165k miles again no problems plus many many more, except the 80.
Not sure. Some folks have reported good results after replacing most of the components. Right now I think I have switch problem cause it was slow, now it doesn't move. Next step is to fix that and maybe replace the spring piece, whatever its called.

My windows would only work when engine was running and had >13v power I replaced the harness for power everything in the drivers door (418 bux) and relays down at bottom of "A" pillar (37 bux) and all power windows go up/like new. Since the harness goes through the door and jamb it fatigues, like a coat hanger. The smaller/more fatigued the wire gets the less it can draw.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,625
Messages
2,908,050
Members
230,800
Latest member
Mcoleman
Top